# How to train a dog to not go near the road



## doggiebuddy (Oct 28, 2009)

I live in the country not far (a couple of hundred yards) from a country road with fast moving cars. Before I get a puppy, I would like to know how to train it to NEVER go near it. I see so many pets that have been run over out here. 
Is there a sure-proof method?


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## brecken (Oct 25, 2009)

try a remote shock collar and i say remote one bc instead of using the shock the remote also has the high pitch whistle so that if they dont listen to the whistle then you would use the shock, but you only have to use the shock if they arent responding to the whistle. the whistle is there only for the warning to let them know that if they dont listen they will get shocked


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## Shaina (Oct 28, 2007)

doggiebuddy said:


> Is there a sure-proof method?





















That's about as fool-proof as you are going to get.


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## Ayanla (Jun 11, 2009)

Woah there. Why are we jumping straight to something like a shock collar?

The most logical would be to get a fence, put up a kennel/run or always have the dog on a leash or lead. There are invisible fence methods that work for some but not others.

I would never be comfortable allowing my dog outside unsupervised sans restraint of some sort regardless of training. Trained while in your sight and trained when no one is looking are two totally different things. I think the safest thing would be to prevent the pup from getting to the road rather than trying to teach it not to go near it.


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## brecken (Oct 25, 2009)

it doesnt hurt the dog i use a shock collar but i have only had to use the whistle bc she didnt like the whistle


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## Ayanla (Jun 11, 2009)

And how does that work when you're not looking?


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

Fence, kennel run, zip line(s) or leash are the only sure fire methods. My dogs never went near the road for 4 years and then disaster struck.....it only takes one small slip.


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## Shaina (Oct 28, 2007)

brecken said:


> it doesnt hurt the dog i use a shock collar but i have only had to use the whistle bc she didnt like the whistle


If the shock collar didn't cause pain it wouldn't work. That's the point of an aversive. 

And no I really truly am not trying to turn this into yet another shock collar discussion...


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## brecken (Oct 25, 2009)

o sure i just read the question again and i just realized that it is a puppy o sure i would go with an underground fence


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## Keely (Oct 14, 2008)

I live in a rural area and do not have a physical fence...the main road is 1/4 mile away, where people often go 45-55 mph. Lots of hit animals on the road. I really don't think there is any way to 100% train them to not go on the road, a cat or squirrel could throw any training right out the window if they have the mind to chase something. I use a wireless fence for my dog and it works very well for her. For some dogs, I guess collars don't work, but I've never had a problem. It is really important to train them to the fence though...my dog was a little slow on the uptake and took about 3 weeks of training, I believe most are easier.


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## doggiebuddy (Oct 28, 2009)

I really appreciate all of your answers and discussion. 
I am not interested in leashing or tieing a dog all the time and a physical fence is out of the question. I will consider the invisible fence. 
Maybe this is just not the time or place for an dog.


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## RBark (Sep 10, 2007)

doggiebuddy said:


> I really appreciate all of your answers and discussion.
> I am not interested in leashing or tieing a dog all the time and a physical fence is out of the question. I will consider the invisible fence.
> *Maybe this is just not the time or place for an dog.*


I would have to agree with that. Invisible fence + puppies = bad news.


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## FilleBelle (Aug 1, 2007)

doggiebuddy said:


> I really appreciate all of your answers and discussion.
> I am not interested in leashing or tieing a dog all the time and a physical fence is out of the question. I will consider the invisible fence.
> Maybe this is just not the time or place for an dog.


I agree.

If you're strongly against the use of leashes _and _tie outs _and _fences, then you're probably not ready for a dog.


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

Hmm I want to know as well. Truffles likes to poop in the middle of the road. Every time we're heading to the park or something whenever we're crossing the street, that is the exact moment she decides to poop. This has happened at least 10 times... It's really annoying especially if you know the light's going to turn green again before she finishes.

Sorry for hijacking this thread to ask my own question too!


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## BellaPup (Jul 7, 2007)

As much as I would love to let Bella run around outside without being tied to something, I would NEVER let her off leash or out from behind a fence near a busy road - even with the best training. Bella has pretty good recall, but the road we live on is WAY too busy to have her off-leash - if the neighbor's dog across the street were out, she'd never hear me...she'd be running across that road to say "hi". I would die if she got hit. 

Unless you're ready to take total and complete responsibility for the dog in all situations, you should wait.

You need more than one tool sometimes. #1 good recall training. A collar could slip, the leash could be dropped, the dog could jump the fence...you will at least have a chance with all of these situations with a solid recall.


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## stormee4me (Dec 1, 2010)

PLEASE, do not ever use shock collars! This is a cruel means of "discipline". That poor dog is going to associate pain or discomfort. He needs "positive" reinforcement. Take him back to the part of the yard he IS allowed in and praise and give him the best treats in the world. Let him know that going mear the road is bad by a stern NO and clapping of the hands.
Once you take him back to the place he is allowed, praise and treat him!!!
NO SHOCK COLLARS PLEASE!


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## RedyreRottweilers (Dec 17, 2006)

this thread is over a year old. FENCES keep dogs away from roads.


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## Independent George (Mar 26, 2009)

Seriously - we seem to have an epidemic of thread necromancy this week. Oh crap, now I did it...


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## JeanieStecher (May 26, 2010)

I would like to suggest three things, either you tie your pup when your not around or put it in a crate or use what has been suggested a electronic collar shock. Also, if you want, you could just put a fense on your house so that your pup wont go out. Better yet, spen time walking with him every mornig on the side of the road so that he will be be made use of not crossing.


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## Tok39Larraby (Feb 14, 2013)

I believe I have been successful in training my dogs to RUN ONTO ROADS and NOT to CROSS roads without my permission. .. at least it's worked so far for me.

I live in an inner city residential neighbourhood, (Melbourne, Australia) on a main road in a relatively built up area with clearly delineated curbs, pavements, nature strips, and cross-streets. I worked hard, putting a lot of time into training both my dogs when they were young and it has paid off many times over (something I am reminded off every time I see someone being dragged around the block with an unruly and excited dog)

It is important to note that my two English Cocker Spaniels (2 & 4 yrs) are NOT chasers (cats, birds etc) and a little skittish around other dogs and people. If they see another dog they will avoid them rather than chase off after them (we do see lots of cats in yards and frequently on the pavement at someone's gate)

1. You have to get the dog behaving itself on the lead. It should walk with you and not be pulling your arm off. Teach the dog how to behave on the lead and obey you FIRST. (I read a few books and watched a season or two of the dog whisperer on cable here as my guides). STOP, SIT, HEEL, OK(go) are the main commands that I've taught them)

2. I use two commands every time we approach a cross street. When we reach the cross street I use the command 'STOP'. Once they have stopped, then get them to 'SIT.' (EVERY TIME - EVERY CROSS STREET). After 5-10 seconds (assuming the way is clear), I then give them a verbal 'OK' while at the same time waving them across the intersection with with a straight arm raise from my hips pointing to the other side of the intersection. If it is a controlled pedestrian crossing with lights, I will often delay my 'ok' command a few extra seconds so the dogs go on my queue and not any queue given by the intersection (eg; little green ticking man or walk sign). The dogs are always 'HEEL'd' when I cross with them (on or off the lead). 

On an average 30-40 minute walk we will STOP and SIT at least a dozen times at cross streets, if not more. 


If the dog EVER steps off the curb either at an intersection or off the nature strip while moving up the street it gets one hell of a tongue lashing (telling off) from me. This happened a few times in the early days but repetition finally taught them the lesson. The 'STOP' command is essential here. It's easy to blurt it out when needed and it's sharp and distinctive and (me thinks) unambiguous (not confused with other commands I have taught them)

3. After about 3 months of one 10 minute walk and another 30-40 minute walk each day. (The dogs were about 6-9 months of age and they would often 'stop and sit' at each cross-street without prompting), I then progressed to walking them off the lead. 

(Walking off the lead is not permitted in my area... but I do it anyway.)

For the first month or so I walked them off the lead in the very early morning (5:30am) when there was little to no traffic on the road. You give yourself time to gain confidence walking in the early morning/late at night - Even then I found it incredibly hard the first time I let them off the lead but I could only have done it when there was no traffic around. 

Once I had become confident with the dogs I started walking them during daylight hours when traffic levels were more typical. As stated earlier, I live on a main road that is very dangerous for anything that steps off the curb unexpectedly (man or dog)


I should also note that when I trained my dogs I walked and trained them one on one. Walking them together 'off lead' came much later. Walking each dog seperately, I think, is a must its much easier to hold their attention without the distraction of the other dog. It is also clear to them that commands are for them (as aposed to the other dog). Later when together they tend to support each other in their lessons learned. (IMHO)

For the last three years I have not had a single incident of the dogs wandering onto the road. The older dog will often walk ahead up to 100 meters, reach a cross street and will sit and wait for me. 

I have had many incidents of cats, birds etc being surprised and running across a road and the younger dog has even chased to the curb... but has not crossed it. (once again it is important to note that my dogs are not really chasers and a little shy.... - I can also be one intimidating mf when giving my dogs a verbal dressing down if they come anywhere near wandering onto the road or crossing the street without my permission - enuf to say that it doesn't take many repetitions before they learn to avoid my verbal wrath by keeping away from the road. 

I also tended to use the same route when walking and teaching them the basics about not going on the road and stopping at cross streets and the stop/sit/go routine is ALWAYS applicable whether on or off the lead. Nowadays we take walks with a choice of a dozen different routes and I try to vary them regularly to add interest for the dogs. 

I am inclined to think that I was blessed in having dogs that are NOT CHASERS and non assertive/a tad shy around other people and dogs. I'm not sure my methods would have worked had their personalities been otherwise. I have also not tested 'having a friend, or someone else the dog knows' being on the other side of a road and any effect it might have on the dogs.

It took a lot of patience, persistence and CONSISTENCY .. and a minimum of 2-3 months of repetition before I had the confidence to walk them off the lead in daylight, when the main road I live on is at its most dangerous. 

My partner regularly walks the dogs by herself and both dogs are well behaved, not running onto the road and always sitting and waiting till instructed by my partner to cross at cross-streets.

All in all this method has worked for me and has been so very worth it although I would be the first to agree that if you are ever in any doubt.. put the dog(s) straight on the lead. 

Good luck!


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