# Potty training when there is no yard



## mar5195 (Jun 19, 2007)

We have had our puppy Foxy for 5 months and we thought the potty training was going good. But in the last month there have been quite a few accidents and we think maybe the method we use isn't working. 

She's 9 months old. Here's our schedule:

First thing in the a.m- Walk & Potty
9 a.m. - Goes in her crate where she eats exclusively
1 or 2 p.m. - Potty break & she gets a break from the crate for an hour.
6 p.m. - Take her out of the crate for Walk and Potty
9-10: p.m. Take her out for Walk and Potty.

We live in a townhome so we bought Poochie Bells and we put them on the front door and we put them on all the doors in every room. She seems to think ringing the bell just means we go outside and not that we go outside to potty. She has been pooping like crazy inside. And I don't get how she can hold the pee but she'll crap. 

Yesterday she had her morning potty break and maybe 2 hours later managed to crap inside our bedroom. She did it right in front of my husband and he didn't even say anything when she cowered and ran away. 

What are we doing wrong? I want her to be able to tell us when she has to go. And it's not working right now so we're just taking her out so that we don't have to deal with accidents. 

She never has accidents on the first floor (hard woods). It's always on the 2nd floor where the carpet is.


----------



## Anela (Sep 8, 2007)

I'm not familiar with how to get pup to use the bells, but I do think you need to back up and just start all over in the potty dept.

Following is a cut and paste thing, most of it pertains to you, some may not. Please forgive the length This system has helped me and lots of others.

*Potty training. Don’t expect a “quick fix”. To be successful with this and other training issues, you really need to crate train. Potty training correctly, is a very important issue for you and your dog. Lots of people get frustrated when their dog does not make progress. Commitment, work, consistency, treats and praise and are key to this issue. Potty training problems are one of the major reasons so many dogs wind up at the pound or back at one. Below I have listed 5 key steps to get your dog potty trained. It a simple procedure that has worked for me and lots of others. But first, some words about crate training.

Numerous people have a negative attitude about crate training. They think that the dog will be uncomfortable when crated, or they don’t like the idea because of what they have read, heard, or just think. If you have a negative attitude, you need to make it a positive. 

Crate training a newly introduced pup or even an older dog is one of the most important things you will ever do for you and your new dog. Pups and older dogs love the feeling of being closed in when they are in a strange place, especially if there is an old sheet over the crate, leaving the front open so dog can look out. If the crate has to much room for a pup to move around, put something indestructible inside to cut down on space so pup can curl up and feel secure. Leaving soft music playing when you are away pacifies the dog and helps prevent separation anxiety. Dogs of any age kept confined to the crate won’t get into trouble when you are away or can’t supervise. The more room new dogs have to roam around in like a blocked off kitchen or bathroom, the more trouble they can get in to. 

If you have a pup, the crate should be in your bedroom at night and in a living area during the day to help the bonding process. It is not realistic to expect a pup, used to being around litter mates and mother to like being left alone, especially at night. They get frightened and confused and make all kinds of noise. 

If whining is an issue, with the sheet over the crate, gently tap on the top and firmly say “stop”. This may need to be repeated a few times, but soon dog will associate your command with the crate tapping. When whining stops, give praise and treats.

Newly introduced dogs must earn your trust and their unsupervised freedom from the crate. Lots of people try to do this to quickly. This confuses the dog with to much space to roam around in. To be successful with your dog, initially you simply must supervise every second when dog is out of the crate. Dog should have a leash on when out so you can easily grab it and take the dog out when you need to or to keep it out of trouble. Frozen Kongs stuffed with cheese or peanut butter or other toys that don’t splinter should also be available for dog to chew on. Never leave dog alone with a chew toy, it could get lodged in the mouth or throat. Keep in mind that dog is looking at you and an alpha dog figure for guidance, not a human. It is your duty to provide this. 

When dog is house trained and you can start to trust the way things are going, weaning dog from the crate can start. This also must be done gradually so dog won’t get confused. About 10 minute intervals without a leash over the course of about one month or more is essential, depending on how well dog is doing. When dog is good give tons of praise and perhaps a treat. While dog is out of the crate, give lots of praise for anything good done, like drinking water, laying around, chewing on a toy, etc. Anything dog does that is positive should get recognition, this builds confidence and lets dog know that it is able to please you. 

To get dog used to your absence, leave the house with dog outside of the crate for only a few minutes. Leave the crate door open, return inside and give tons of praise and treats if dog has been good. If dog has gotten into only minor mischief, state your displeasure by firmly stating that dog was bad. Dogs are very visual creatures, only minor scolding and the look of your face should get the point across. Gradually increase time when dog is alone over the course of a month or so depending on how well things go.


**When house training a dog it is very important for you to pick a system and stick with that, rather than switch if things are not going well. Switching will only confuse you and your pup. If you are not having success, you need to back up and start over, only go slower. House training is the first major step dog is going to take in earning your trust, this is simply a must for any indoor dog. If you have an older dog that needs to potty trained, you need to treat dog like a pup.

Here is a simple step by step method for potty training that worked for me. It also has worked for others. 

1. First you need to realize that not all dogs are the same in this category. Some get it within a week or less, others take longer etc. How you might ask do I know so much about potty training?? I rescued a 4 month old Shepard/Hound last year, my fourth dog in 16 years. (I have two others that were a snap to train). She took about 5 months to potty train. This is an unusually long time, I had to back up numerous times and start over. I dug into her past and found out that she was traumatized by her experience before I came along. She completely missed the prime time of her life to be potty trained. I was really forced to take small baby steps forward after very minimal progress. 

MOST dogs won’t go in their crate. If pup does, remove blankets or padding. This should cure that problem. If problems persist, increase time when no padding is on the floor. 2. You need to start potty training by taking dog out immediately after dog comes out of the crate. Then, gradually increase length of time to regular intervals (gradually increased over the course of one-two months depending on how successful dog is doing). Get dog used to the commands “go poo” and “go pee”. These commands should be a must, they are incredibly helpful when the weather is bad. 

If dog doesn't do anything, that's fine, if it does, give tons of praise and give a treat, preferably one used just for training purposes. Consistency is the key to all of this. Dogs are creatures of habit and depend on a schedule. This is no time to skimp on excessive praise and treats when you are house training. Pup needs to associate yummy treats with doing it’s thing. Boiled or baked chicken liver is a great training tool, dogs crave it and you really have their attention when you use it.

2. Daily walks at least twice a day (about 20-30 minutes each in the same area) are essential for dogs and getting them house trained. Walking gets things moving, dogs love it and it gives them something to look forward to. Try and feed a pup prior to the walks. Never free feed unless your vet says to. Pups have a high metabolism. Soon after it eats or drinks, it will need to go out. 

3. Pups drink huge amounts of water. In theory yours should be able to hold it for (one hour for each month) up to about 9 months. In reality, if a young pup has been playing, it will gulp down lots of water, and just won't be able to hold it for that long. After pup drinks, keep an eye on it. Take it out in about 5-10 minutes and offer it relief. Soon pup will go to the door when it need to go out. 

4. Your pup won't be considered house trained unless it has no accidents for at least 9months! Also, as I learned, there is a HUGE difference in a dog that is 4-6 months old and one that is 9-10 months old. They grow inside and out. Once they reach 9-10 months, their bladders are larger and able to hold it longer. 

5. Piddle pads and newspapers should never be used. Some on this forum have suggested them, and have had success with them. If you start to use them and dog gets accustomed to doing it’s thing on them, you could have a very difficult time getting dog to go on grass or even get dog outside. Some people see these pads and papers as a short cut to potty training. It is not. Dogs really need a natural area to relieve themselves. 

Because dogs are creatures of habit, they will associate the pads and papers with relieving themselves and you may find yourself starting all over in the potty training department, which would make for even more work for all involved. In other words, when was the last time you saw a wolf (dogs closest cousin) use a pee pad?

Good luck ! 

Anela


----------



## mar5195 (Jun 19, 2007)

*Here are the instructions to the bells. She pretty much is up to the final step. She knows how to ring the bells. She knows ringing them gets her outside. But she doesn't always ring the bells when she needs to potty. If we are upstairs in the office she won't ring the office door bell and she definetly won't go downstairs and ring the front door bell either. Maybe we need to keep on working on it. *

The Poochie-Bells Training Method

Training your pet with Poochie-Bells relies on consistency. Training time depends on your effort with your pet. No dog is too old to learn this behavior. Our system is based on the great psychologist Ivan Pavlov's discovery, that one form of learning is a result of repeated stimulus. 
By ringing the bells each and every time the dog is to go outside (creating a stimulus), the resulting action will be the reward of being able to go outside. Your pet will learn to associate the stimulus of the bells with the ability to go outside.

Step One:
Hang your Poochie-Bells on the inside of the door(s) that your pet typically exits your house from. Dog only needs to nudge any part of the ribbon 
to ring the bells. Most Dogs Can Reach! Your Poochie-Bells should stay on the door (or on a small hook next to the door) at all times so that your pet can access whenever he/she needs to.

Step Two:
Each time you take your pooch outside for a walk, or outside for any reason; state a simple command phrase, we suggest "Outside...Ring the Bells". Get your family involved! All members of your household should be consistent and use the same wording and actions with your pet.

Step Three:
After stating your command phrase, ring your Poochie-Bells in front of the dog. The dog should see AND hear the bells.

Step Four:
After ringing the bells and saying the command phrase, follow through with praise to your pet and allow him to go outside. (You should not reward your dog with a food treat, as the reward of going outside and praise from his favorite person is reward enough. In addition, your dog will then associate treats with ringing the bell rather than going outside.)

DO THIS EACH TIME YOUR PET IS TO GO OUTSIDE. CONSISTENCY IS KEY!

Step Five:
After several weeks of this conditioning, start just using the phrase each time your dog wants to exit and stop ringing the bells. Tell im "Outside...Ring the Bells", wait for his action. Point to the bells. If he rings the bells, praise him and allow him to go out. If he does NOT ring the bells, ring the bells for him, restate your command phrase and then allow him outside. 

Step Six:
Each week that follows, repeat this conditioning until your dog starts to ring the bells on his own. It is critical that you praise the dog on his newly learned behavior to reinforce this action. 

Listen for the bells. You will start hearing them ring. You may be in a different room while your pet is ringing the bells.....go let him/her out!


----------



## JeanninePC99 (Jul 24, 2007)

I only introduced the bells when Baxter was not having any accidents inside. I'd put the bells away until the training is pretty solid.


----------



## Durbkat (Jun 26, 2007)

I would crate when you can't watch the dog, then have the dog on a leash and tied to you so it can't sneak off to go potty. Also take the dog out after he or she drinks and eats. But you could also make a log of how long it takes for him or her to go potty after eating and drinking.


----------



## LeRoymydog (Feb 25, 2007)

How often is she out of her crate? She might not be able to hold it for 4 hours yet. Is she a big dog?

I would just leash her around you at all times. Then when you see her sniffing the floor, take her outside and stay out with her until she potties. It could take awhile. Praise her alot when she does it right.


----------



## KumoES (Nov 20, 2007)

My dog doesn't have a backyard to go to either. To start, I took him out every hour or two to urinate, then began waiting longer. The moment he started fidgeting, we went outside to go the bathroom. Any accidents were met by "ANGRY MOMMY" and Kumo was rushed downstairs and placed on the grass. Immediately "angry mommy" became "Happy Mommy!" and Kumo apparently likes happy mommy better. 

Keep your pup always with you, or at least within sight. We have a tendency to use a long leash attached to a couch. The moment she starts to look antsy, take her outside. If she doesn't do anything, go inside and try again in 15 minutes.


----------

