# How to use a heeling stick?



## reafe (Jan 12, 2009)

I read a description on how to use a heeling stick but was wonder if someone can give me a good detail on how to use it. 

I guess in essence, you use the stick, not as lure like a target stick, but as an extension of your hand. Not as a target stick where a dog touches it with it's nose.

In correction, you tap the dog enough for the behavior to be corrected, like a check with a leash, but not a wack where the dog is being attacked.

For example on using the heeling stick to guide a dog to sit, you do your normal heel, then, slight upward tug, but you use the heeling stick, behind your back, and tap the dog's base of his tail. 

Or in a heel you heel, then if he goes forward before you, you tap his chest. Or if he drifts to far left, you tap his left side back into position.

Anyway, with basic imagination, I can see a basic method but wondering if there was a specific way to train this way. And it's a tap, not baseball hit. The tensity of the hit is equal to a regular check on a leash.


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## Dogstar (May 11, 2007)

I've seen someone do this and it's basically hitting a dog with a stick for getting out of position. If you WANT to do that, why not use a prong collar? It's faster, you'd need fewer corrections, and IMO, if you HAVE to train with corrections, use effective enough ones that you can use as few as possible. Nagging with a leash- or a stick- is just not a good way to teach. (I don't think you realize how much even a relatively SOFT hit with a thin stick hurts- think kids being spanked with a switch!)

That said, I've seen someone teach their dog to target a targeting stick with their hip, and then used that to teach the dog to keep their butt in. This is 'bridge and target' method, which is a little woowoo in the book and mailing list, but very effective.


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

You understand how to use it pretty well. It just takes lots of practice to become proficient with it and the timing is crucial. Some dogs are really sensitive to sticks...my female Sheltie runs at the sight of one and she's never even been threatened with it.
As an aside, it is used mainly for small dogs where 'hands on' positioning is more difficult (too much bending over all the time).


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

I did try it on a few dogs and mine was more of a buggy whip where I cut off the loose end of whip and the part that was touching dog was softer than the end of a dowel type stick or broom type. The few dogs I tried it on were all over the map, and I did not like the results. I think it's a acquired method and takes some work to be efficient at it.


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## Marsh Muppet (Nov 29, 2008)

The heeling stick is carried resting on the left shoulder (with the dog heeling left). This gives you the quickest response time as winding up and/or crossing over to the offside will flare the dog. Typically it is used to transition to off-leash work. You begin stick corrections with the dog on-leash and take care to get past any bugging issues before going off-leash. The dog must know all the commands cold, and only _enough_ pressure is employed. Once you start with the heeling stick, you carry it any time you train to avoid the dog becoming stick wise.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

Marsh Muppet said:


> The heeling stick is carried resting on the left shoulder (with the dog heeling left). This gives you the quickest response time as winding up and/or crossing over to the offside will flare the dog. Typically it is used to transition to off-leash work. You begin stick corrections with the dog on-leash and take care to get past any bugging issues before going off-leash. The dog must know all the commands cold, and only _enough_ pressure is employed. Once you start with the heeling stick, you carry it any time you train to avoid the dog becoming stick wise.


You assume the people you're talking to can spit and rub their bellys at the same time.


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## Marsh Muppet (Nov 29, 2008)

wvasko said:


> You assume the people you're talking to can spit and rub their bellys at the same time.


It's a perennial failing of mine. However, incompetent trainers who are looking for a magic wand usually ask about e-collars.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

Marsh Muppet said:


> It's a perennial failing of mine. However, incompetent trainers who are looking for a magic wand usually ask about e-collars.


That's ok they never know which button to press anyway


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## harrise (Jan 9, 2008)

wvasko said:


> That's ok they never know which button to press anyway


Oh, *I* know which buttons to push.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

harrise said:


> Oh, *I* know which buttons to push.


You're just bragging now and since you're not incompetent you just don't fullfill the criterion.


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## Marsh Muppet (Nov 29, 2008)

All seriousness aside, a heeling stick does require some skill. Timing (as in all correction) is important, but accuracy is too. You really want to practice to be sure you are landing the stick on the fleshy parts. Hitting points of bone will not produce the desired response. As Dogstar said, use enough correction to get the message across quickly. Maybe it's a guy thing, but to me, nagging = torture. How much is enough for your dog depends on your dog. Don't make assumptions because it is a "tough" or "girly" breed.


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## Doug (Sep 30, 2015)

Hi. Brand new member here. This is a topic I have some interest in as well. I often walk with a cane in my right hand, which makes it awkward to carry a leash in that hand at the same time I am controlling the dog. My dog has some real attention issues when in a new environment, especially an environment with lots of people and smells, such as a farmer's market. I have been using my cane. with light taps on the butt, to get her attention, and occasionally to block her path or bring her in closer to me. She is a quick learner, once she understands what it is I want. I get the feeling using the cane might be confusing her, but then she does the same thing, in that sort of environment, when I am using the leash only in both hands. She is so easily distracted, and even willful it seems. BTW, she is a shepherd mix. I am guessing German Shepherd/Blue heeler.


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## elrohwen (Nov 10, 2011)

Doug said:


> Hi. Brand new member here. This is a topic I have some interest in as well. I often walk with a cane in my right hand, which makes it awkward to carry a leash in that hand at the same time I am controlling the dog. My dog has some real attention issues when in a new environment, especially an environment with lots of people and smells, such as a farmer's market. I have been using my cane. with light taps on the butt, to get her attention, and occasionally to block her path or bring her in closer to me. She is a quick learner, once she understands what it is I want. I get the feeling using the cane might be confusing her, but then she does the same thing, in that sort of environment, when I am using the leash only in both hands. She is so easily distracted, and even willful it seems. BTW, she is a shepherd mix. I am guessing German Shepherd/Blue heeler.


You might want to start a new thread about your issues. This one is very old.


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