# New 6 week old puppy and I need some help please!!!



## LaDay&Rallo (Aug 22, 2012)

Hello,

I am new to this forum but far from new to dog owning. I grew up as a child mostly with large dogs. German shepherd, alaskan husky, Rottweiler, poodle etc. But as a 1L student I'm a bit busy but I wanted a dog so bad for mostly companionship issues. 

I trolled the internet and finally located a puppy in my price range and one that seemed to fit my single apartment style living lifestyle. I got a male rat terrier/poodle mix commonly known as a Rattle. The dog breeder I got it from stated she was a Chihuahua puppy breeder and the mother of my puppy (I saw the mom but couldn't distinguish if it was the poodle a full pure bread poodle because of the grooming) accidentally got pregnant by her neighbors dog (the rat terrier). 

When I picked up the puppy he was 1 of 3 (2 boys 1 girl) but not the runt (btw the runt was gorgeous!). I took my room mate with me who use to be a vet technician. She checked out the puppy for me and the initial owner gave the dog his shots right in front of me along with the packaging and some de worming medicine. MY room mate noticed that the puppy had a few flees and ticks on him. The initial owner told me she had given him a flee bath the night before but the dog had been playing outside and could have gotten a few flees. Initially the dog was calm and sleepy but once we got him home and gave him the flee medicine he has been a totally different dog. 

His first night was ok. He is not a fan of the crate at all. I initially put a puppy pad in the crate for an overnight accident but after further research I decided to take it out and just put a towel/blanket in the crate. I have started to also give him a treat every time I put him in the crate and leave for sleep or just for the day so he can start to associate it with quiet time and good behavior. 

I ended up having to get up at 4 am last night after putting him to bed in the crate around 12am (after i took him outside) because he was whining so loud and so long. I took him out cause I thought he wanted attention but really he wanted to go to the bathroom. So he had an accident in the house (outside of the small pee accidents he had earlier) and after I took him outside to finish. I brought him back in, gave him a little food and water and then put him back in the crate. He slept for about 3 hours and then was back to whining. 

I got up for class and took him out. This time when I took him out but this time he seemed to be having issues with doing his poop business. It seemed as if he was struggling but the only thing I can attribute that to is his change in food from what his original owner gave him to what I am currently giving him. He also was worrying me because of his yelping and scratching. I gave him the flee and tick medicine last night around 8 or 9 pm and he seems to be going through a tough time with the flees and ticks. He scratches around his neck where I put the flee medicine and where his collar is. I was worried the collar was irritating him (but I did the finger check and its not too tight) or the flees and ticks were just freaking out because of the medicine. Today, around the same time I gave him the flee medicine yesterday I plan on giving him a bath with a oatmeal shampoo I bought to hopefully give him some relief from the flees, ticks, and itching. 

I want to get him to stop yelping and whining as soon as possible. I also want to start training him as soon as possible. Im a very mellow, laid back person who shows a lot of affection. I feel this puppy was the right move for me but I just need a little help on the way. If anyone has any tips, question, or suggestions please feel free to let me know or reply. I would really appreciate it. 


-LaDay&Rallo


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## mashlee08 (Feb 24, 2012)

Ideally, the puppy needs to go back and spend at least another 2 to 4 weeks to learn behavioral things from his mother and litter mates. He is much to young to be away from his litter mates and mother. 
At 6 weeks he has no control over toilet functions whatsoever and his bladder will be tiny! His nervous system wont have developed enough to send the "i need to go potty" signals to his brain yet. 
So expecting him to hold it for any longer then an hour is completely unrealistic. You need to be setting an alarm and getting up every hour to allow him to go out to toilet otherwise your just setting him up for failure. Have a party when he goes outside. 
But seriously before all that, the puppy needs to go back and spend more time with mom.


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## LaDay&Rallo (Aug 22, 2012)

Ok,

Thanks for the reply but the dog can't and isn't going back. So I would appreciate more advice on the current situation instead of an unable ideal situation. I've noticed the pee accidents and realized that it happens when he is just walking around. He doesn't even stop to pee lol! So i can completely agree with him not having the control just yet. Would it be possible for me to get him to play with other dogs in my apartment complex and that would suffice somewhat for him being away from mom and litter mates? Would it be confusing for me to do pee pads every hour and outside every 4 hours? I also bought pet puppy diapers but he seems to not like wearing them right now because it limits him from scratching with the flee situation. Any suggestion on how to incorporate the diapers into his potty training?


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

NO, that dog should NOT be outside playing with other dogs, walking where other dogs are etc. He shouldn't be anywhere there is the potential for an unvaccinated dog to have eliminated. He has no immunity right now to things like parvo (very common in many areas and expensive to treat with a high fatality rate) and distemper (common in some areas, high fatality rate, no real treatment options).

If you gave a topical flea med (which I hope was marked for pups at 6 weeks of age and older), then you want to wait several days before bathing. Topical flea meds are most effective given at least a few days after a bath and not bathing for several more days (for the oils on the fur/skin).

You need to get a vet check ASAP and get started on the vaccines - making sure that whatever shots the original owner had given are the correct ones for that age and doing the second set at the proper time.


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## huskysmiles (Aug 18, 2012)

Your puppy is really young. He should not be out and about when he is in danger of catching diseases and he certainly hasn't learned to socialize yet. He definitely doesn't have control over his bladder functions so training him right now should be the last thing on your mind. Like the poster above me said, you need to get him to the vet straight away to vaccinate him and that everything is up to day and right for him. A vet can also help you when it comes to your puppy's care - so you might as well ask. Taking care of a puppy this young is a full time job for a few weeks and unfortunately I don't think he'll stop yapping very soon. It's a shame you can't return him to his mother because he really does need to learn more from her. Regardless, I wish you the best of luck with him! Just remember to talk to your vet.


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## Amaryllis (Dec 28, 2011)

WASH HIM, WASH HIM NOW. I just looked at every brand of OTC flea topicals and they all say for puppies 8 weeks of age and older. Get some mild dish detergent, ideally original Dawn, and wash him and rinse really well. Then take him to the vet immediately afterwards. Do not allow him on the floor at the vets, or outside your apartment or anywhere another dog might have been. Parvo kills and it kills horribly.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

Amaryllis said:


> WASH HIM, WASH HIM NOW. I just looked at every brand of OTC flea topicals and they all say for puppies 8 weeks of age and older. Get some mild dish detergent, ideally original Dawn, and wash him and rinse really well. Then take him to the vet immediately afterwards. Do not allow him on the floor at the vets, or outside your apartment or anywhere another dog might have been. Parvo kills and it kills horribly.


there are some OTC topicals that are 7 weeks and older (Advantix 2 and Advantage 2 at least)

Am I reading it correctly that you have given flea medicine twice since you have had this dog? Or just the once after he'd been given a "flea bath"? You never want to double up with a chemical flea bath and a flea medication- esp. on a tiny puppy that can basically overdose them. 

Either way around, get the dog to a vet, held in your arms or in an enclosed carrier. 

Use pee pads 100% for now since you live in an apartment complex and have no idea the diseases that could be on the ground due to the other dogs. 

He's yelping and whining because he is an infant taken away too young.


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## LaDay&Rallo (Aug 22, 2012)

I guess I didn't mention that I took him to the Petsmart vet right after I purchased him and had them have a over look of him. The petsmart vet weighed my puppy and gave me the flee medicine that I applied to him. I have been taking him outside to my apartments designated "dog friendly" spot to do his business. Should I stop doing that? He has not interacted with any other dogs and I only take him out when he is the only dog in the area. His next shots are not suppose to be until 12 or 13 weeks. Also I am suppose to give him the worming medication that the original owner gave me some time next week.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

> I have been taking him outside to my apartments designated "dog friendly" spot to do his business. Should I stop doing that? He has not interacted with any other dogs and I only take him out when he is the only dog in the area.


A designated "dog spot" is basically the worst place to take an unvaccinated puppy. It doesn't matter if there are no dogs there at that time, parvo lives for a very long time in the soil. 

Note that I say "unvaccinated" even though your dog has had one set of vaccines- because the immunity from the mother (assuming the mom was vaccinated, which I wouldn't assume with a "breeder" like this) wears off at an unknown time frame that seems to be different for each dog, parvo vaccine is given as a series of 3 or 4 shots spaced over time. The first shot may not take effect at all because the mom's antibodies are still in the pup. 

Many people will take a dog to places where all the dogs are proven to be vaccinated after the pups 2nd set of shots. So, a friend's home with a vaccinated adult dog or puppy kindergarten where the facility requires vet records and cleans well between training classes (but you still don't walk the dog through a public place to get to those places) are fine but not till your dog is 12-13 weeks and had that second set of shots. 

What topical flea med were you given by the PetSmart vet? Did you tell the vet the dog was 6 weeks old?

BTW- in many states it is illegal to sell a dog under 8 weeks of age. Which is part of the reason I'd be pretty dubious of trusting anything the seller said to you.


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## Kyllobernese (Feb 5, 2008)

I would set up a pen for the puppy or a safe room like a laundry or bathroom with a baby gate across the door. Put down puppy pads, you can put the crate in the pen but leave the door open so she will have a place to sleep. Put her food and water by her bed and the puppy pads at the far end of the pen.

Put a ticking clock under a soft blanket in the crate and make sure it is warm enough. Hopefully your puppy has not come in contact with any sick dogs outside but don't take her out there again. At six weeks they are just barely weaned so the shot the seller gave the puppy is probably not at all effective. You can take the puppy out but carry it, just so it gets to go to different places and see people and traffic.

My niece has a Rat terrier and they are sure very energetic little dogs but really cute, will be more fluffy with the Poodle in there.


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## TK9 (May 25, 2008)

I really hate reading the kind of stuff you've written. By bringing this too-young puppy home from an irresponsible owner (who is NOT a breeder), you display an awful lot of ignorance and selfishness. 

A puppy is a lot of work and are so easily steered down the wrong path when they're so young. A significant number of dogs who are ultimately put down in shelters end up there because foolish people bring home puppies that they can't or won't properly potty train, end up frustrated and give up on them. I feel bad for your pup. 

You may think it was the right thing for you, it is definitely the wrong thing for this poor animal.


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## sassafras (Jun 22, 2010)

TK9 said:


> A puppy is a lot of work and are so easily steered down the wrong path when they're so young. A significant number of dogs who are ultimately put down in shelters end up there because foolish people bring home puppies that they can't or won't properly potty train, end up frustrated and give up on them. I feel bad for your pup.


The OP may not have brought this puppy home at an ideal age, but they seem pretty willing to put the work into potty training and are asking for help doing so. 

OP, the puppy should not have come home this young but what's done is done and hopefully the next time you get a puppy you will do better now that you know better. Having said that, I agree with Kyllobernese, for now I would set up an area like a gated room or an exercise pen with an open-door crate and a separate area for pottying - either a short sided litter box filled with shredded paper or some pee pads. I think one of Ian Dunbar's free downloads at dogstardaily.com (Either "before you get your puppy" or "after you get your puppy") talks about a set up like that for puppies this young, too young to realistically have expectations of making much progress being actually housetrained (just because they barely have the physical control necessary to even realize they need to go, as you've seen yourself) but getting them started on the right track and then progressing on to "real" housetraining as they get a bit older.

Good luck. You've potentially set yourself up for some challenges with this puppy due to to his age. I would download both of the above pdfs, I also really like "The Puppy Primer" by Patricia McConnell and another author whose name escapes me.


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## Contact_Zone (Oct 5, 2010)

I'm sorry to say you are off to a very bad start.
The "backyard breeder" is obviously only in it for the money and doesn't know what she's doing.
The pup was sold way too young, as already said, and you'll need to seriously work on socialisation with well balanced adult dogs so your pup can learn correct dog language and behaviour codes.
The pup is also too young to be housebroken, and will need to do "his business" very often.



> I grew up as a child mostly with large dogs. German shepherd, alaskan husky, Rottweiler, poodle etc. But as a 1L student *I'm a bit busy* but I wanted a dog so bad for mostly companionship issues.





> one that seemed to fit my single apartment style living lifestyle.


It is an error to think a "small dog" is ok in a small appartment and a "large dog" is not; what all dogs need most is the owner's time.
Terrier type breeds or mixes are high energy and very intelligent dogs, if they become bored they can become destructive or otherwise get into trouble.

Ma suggestions in this tricky situation would be:

- Create a space as suggested by Sassafrass, for examle in the kitchen (easy to clean floor and daylight) with a couple pee pads in one corner, pup's bed and water in the opposite corner.
- As soon as possible (check with vet/shots) have the pup meet calm and well balanced adult dogs.
- Take the pup with you everywhere as much as possible, but never force anything on him, meet different people in different locations and situations, but a little at a time, don't do this too much/too fast.
- Don't start "formal training" too early, rather concentrate on building a good bond between you and the pup by play, walks and quality time together.

Good luck and enjoy your new companion !


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## hanksimon (Mar 18, 2009)

I haven't seen any more posts from the OP ... I wonder if the tone scared her off?


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## Irene V. (Dec 12, 2011)

LaDay&Rallo said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am new to this forum but far from new to dog owning. I grew up as a child mostly with large dogs. German shepherd, alaskan husky, Rottweiler, poodle etc. But as a 1L student I'm a bit busy but I wanted a dog so bad for mostly companionship issues.
> 
> ...


:wave: Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).


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## tinaa1 (Jul 10, 2012)

I can believe what I'm reading.... As a dog owner all my life, before I ever bought a dog i would do so much research.. I feel you haven't done that. 6 week old puppy, poor little mite must be so scared to be away from its mother and as for taking it out I'm gob smacked totally... You obviously have access to a computer, I suggest you use it


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## Hambonez (Mar 17, 2012)

At 8 wks old, my puppy had to be brought out every 20-30 minutes when awake to pee. 

I'm not touchin' the rest of it


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## Pawzk9 (Jan 3, 2011)

TK9 said:


> I really hate reading the kind of stuff you've written. By bringing this too-young puppy home from an irresponsible owner (who is NOT a breeder), you display an awful lot of ignorance and selfishness.
> 
> A puppy is a lot of work and are so easily steered down the wrong path when they're so young. A significant number of dogs who are ultimately put down in shelters end up there because foolish people bring home puppies that they can't or won't properly potty train, end up frustrated and give up on them. I feel bad for your pup.
> 
> You may think it was the right thing for you, it is definitely the wrong thing for this poor animal.


That's really a lot of assumption on your part. Lots of people get pups at under the ideal age. Sometimes, if the "breeder" is neglectful, it's actually better for the pup to be somewhere they are being cared for, though not a perfect solution. It's nuts to assume someone is going to dump their pup at the shelter because they are asking questions about house training. To the OP, treat this infant like an infant. And go to a better vet than Banfield, and ask for and FOLLOW their instructions on flea preventatives. These medications are not without side effects and you want to be sure not to overdose. Like with human babies, you're going to be cleaning up lots of messes and getting woke up in the middle of the night. This, too, will pass. Once the pup is safely vaccinated, one of the best things you can do fo her is find a very appropriate older dog who will teach her boundaries without injuring her.


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## Pawzk9 (Jan 3, 2011)

sassafras said:


> I would set up an area like a gated room or an exercise pen with an open-door crate and a separate area for pottying - either a short sided litter box filled with shredded paper or some pee pads. I think one of Ian Dunbar's free downloads at dogstardaily.com (Either "before you get your puppy" or "after you get your puppy") talks about a set up like that for puppies this young, too young to realistically have expectations of making much progress being actually housetrained (just because they barely have the physical control necessary to even realize they need to go, as you've seen yourself) but getting them started on the right track and then progressing on to "real" housetraining as they get a bit older.
> 
> Good luck. You've potentially set yourself up for some challenges with this puppy due to to his age. I would download both of the above pdfs, I also really like "The Puppy Primer" by Patricia McConnell and another author whose name escapes me.


Or dog litter - my last puppies, at 5 weeks would wake up and race for the litter box. I never had to clean up any accidents outside that box. And the substrate is more similar to outdoors, while pads are "like" rugs or clothes on the floor.


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## sassafras (Jun 22, 2010)

Hambonez said:


> At 8 wks old, my puppy had to be brought out every 20-30 minutes when awake to pee.
> 
> I'm not touchin' the rest of it


At around 12 weeks old, I resorted to setting a kitchen timer for EVERY 10 MINUTES to get enough successes outdoors and not-mistakes indoors to start to make housetraining meaningful for Squash. TEN MINUTES. 



Pawzk9 said:


> Or dog litter - my last puppies, at 5 weeks would wake up and race for the litter box. I never had to clean up any accidents outside that box. And the substrate is more similar to outdoors, while pads are "like" rugs or clothes on the floor.


I... didn't even know there was such a thing as dog litter. Got my "something new" out of the way early today!


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## Shakespaw (Aug 5, 2012)

I agree that you need to set up a little playpen area of potty pads for her - you can't treat a puppy this young in the same way that you can treat an older dog, where they're going out on a leash to pee a few times a day. I'm sure you've gotten the message by now that you took home a puppy who was too young, and that you were basically taken in by a very irresponsible backyard breeder. Honestly, if your friend was a vet tech I'm kind of shocked she let you get sucked into this. However, it is what it is at this point - set up a safe space for the puppy like described above and do your best - just think about this like a young infant, as opposed to a toddler, like most puppies are when they leave the litter. She's going to be super scared, super needy, and not at all capable of things like self-control. The ticking of a clock mimics the mother's heartbeat, and will make her feel a little more safe and comfortable. Definitely keep her away from other (especially unknown) dogs until she's had a full round of vaccinations. I would completely ignore everything the breeder did or didn't tell you (seriously, the second someone sends a puppy home to you way too young and with fleas is the second I'd assume they're an irresponsible moron), and get yourself a really good vet (not petsmart!). I'd read reviews and ask around for a reputable veterinarian in your area. This is going to be a handful, and you'll need all the support and good advice you can get. Best of luck to you - it sounds like you're willing to work with this puppy, so I hope you have the time and energy to fully commit to her!


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## Hambonez (Mar 17, 2012)

sassafras said:


> At around 12 weeks old, I resorted to setting a kitchen timer for EVERY 10 MINUTES to get enough successes outdoors and not-mistakes indoors to start to make housetraining meaningful for Squash. TEN MINUTES.


Ohhh yea, we did the kitchen timer, especially when there were people over because we'd lose track of the time!


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## Contact_Zone (Oct 5, 2010)

hanksimon said:


> I haven't seen any more posts from the OP ... I wonder if the tone scared her off?


Could be...
Wich would be a shame since we're only trying to help...even if it's not easy.


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## LaDay&Rallo (Aug 22, 2012)

Ok so to start off let me address all the negative people who have replied. Your reply was not needed. My dog is not going to end up in the pound and just because I took him at 6 weeks says little about my capability as a dog owner. Negativity is not needed and I don't appreciate it. I came to this forum for advice and suggestions not your personal issues with my decision. 

Moving on, to all of you who have been so helpful and suggested things I really appreciate it. I believe that every dog is different and what might work for one dog may not work for others so trying out and working out what is best for you is always key. I appreciate all the warning, answers, feedback, and suggestions to my issues. I have taken them all into consideration when it comes to dealing with my new puppy.

Rallo seems to prefer going outside to do his business rather than staying in and using the puppy pad. I've been trying to get him to take to the puppy pad or even wear a puppy diaper but he is just not interested. He prefers going outside and after doing his business running around on the concrete sidewalk for a bit. He also doesn't seem to like the leash I got him too much but he is dealing with it. Since I (and probably the original owner) have already gotten him into the habit of going to use the bathroom outside, if anyone has any suggestions on pad training since, I'm sure it will come in handy when it rains or gets really cold outside, please let me know I am truly open to knowing what I need to do in order to train him correctly and keeping him safe. 

I gave him a regular bath yesterday after speaking with my Houston vet about the flee medicine I gave him. The vet told m this initial reaction was normal and that the flee medicine was water proof so I was safe to bath him. I gave him a bath and while his itching has not totally ceased it is a whole lot better than it was initially. I was thinking about washing his collar in the oatmeal shampoo just in case he was itching not because of flees but jut not being use to the collar around his little neck. I also researched online a anti- itch spray for dogs that soothes their skin. I'm not sure I he is old enough for that and I don't want to introduce too many things into his little system so if anyone has any suggestions on possibly how to cease or relive more of the itching please let me know. 

I am also wondering about his yelping. I understand he whines and yelps because he is young but i am curious to know if it could potentially turn into barking? He seems to bark/ yelp to get my attention or when I am out of his sight or too far away from him. Any ideas?

Rallo, so far, has been a happy and engaging puppy. I plan on taking him to the vet soon and again I appreciate all the positive feedback. 

-LaDay&Rallo


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## aiw (Jun 16, 2012)

What if you take the pad outside and have him go on it out there? You get the primer for both going outside and using the pad and the best part is that he will be safe to touch the ground (only on the pad). He is VERY susceptible to infections right now (esp Parvo and distemper) and he can't be exposed to areas other dogs use to eliminate or worse yet, other dogs themselves. Its up to you to protect him. We had a kitten die of distemper when I was little, it was horrifying (and of course very expensive). The yelping is a fact of life right now. You are the surrogate 'mom' he has found to replace the one he lost too soon. If you try to correct the yelping he will become very frightened, he is just a baby after all, babies cry. 

Usually these comments come off harsher than intended, but most people here are just trying to give good advice and look out for your little one. Good luck with him!


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## sassafras (Jun 22, 2010)

Maybe you could get some pieces of artificial turf to simulate the grass and use those for your potty spots until he's older?


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## Contact_Zone (Oct 5, 2010)

LaDay&Rallo said:


> I understand he whines and yelps because he is young but i am curious to know if it could potentially turn into barking? He seems to bark/ yelp to get my attention or when I am out of his sight or too far away from him. Any ideas?


Well...you don't want me to say he's yelping because he was taken from his mother too early.
You now need to prevent separation anxiety, and the way to do this is by leaving him alone for very short times, very often, and never go get him when he making any noise, only when he is silent. 
If you are very consistent it will work.
A stuffed Kong might help.


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## mashlee08 (Feb 24, 2012)

People tend to come across harsher on the Internet where you can't read expressions and signals. You also have to understand we care more about your puppy then we care about your feelings. And with irresponsible breeders etc and where your puppy came from there's no beating around the bush here on DF. 

Rest assured you will get good and effective advice here and I encourage you to stick around! Your in for a hard road but with help it will be a lot easier  best of luck!


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## skysky (Dec 18, 2011)

I know it sounds as though everyone's on your case but we all mean well. a puppy that young is much like a human baby in that it wants and needs more than just food and shelter. It needs to be cuddled and comforted and taken care of 24/7 until its at least 4 months old. If you're not home a lot you need to enlist othe aid of friends or family or even a rescue group to get you thru this. Just as the pup is maturing physically, it's brain is developing as well and leaving it alone all day or even for long hours will harm its development leading to behavioral problems such as anxiety and nervousness. please head the advice as to flea meds and exposure to other dogs.
where do you live? perhaps someone on this board will be able to help.

QUOTE=LaDay&Rallo;1218300]Hello,

I am new to this forum but far from new to dog owning. I grew up as a child mostly with large dogs. German shepherd, alaskan husky, Rottweiler, poodle etc. But as a 1L student I'm a bit busy but I wanted a dog so bad for mostly companionship issues. 

I trolled the internet and finally located a puppy in my price range and one that seemed to fit my single apartment style living lifestyle. I got a male rat terrier/poodle mix commonly known as a Rattle. The dog breeder I got it from stated she was a Chihuahua puppy breeder and the mother of my puppy (I saw the mom but couldn't distinguish if it was the poodle a full pure bread poodle because of the grooming) accidentally got pregnant by her neighbors dog (the rat terrier). 
n
When I picked up the puppy he was 1 of 3 (2 boys 1 girl) but not the runt (btw the runt was gorgeous!). I took my room mate with me who use to be a vet technician. She checked out the puppy for me and the initial owner gave the dog his shots right in front of me along with the packaging and some de worming medicine. MY room mate noticed that the puppy had a few flees and ticks on him. The initial owner told me she had given him a flee bath the night before but the dog had been playing outside and could have gotten a few flees. Initially the dog was calm and sleepy but once we got him home and gave him the flee medicine he has been a totally different dog. 

His first night was ok. He is not a fan of the crate at all. I initially put a puppy pad in the crate for an overnight accident but after further research I decided to take it out and just put a towel/blanket in the crate. I have started to also give him a treat every time I put him in the crate and leave for sleep or just for the day so he can start to associate it with quiet time and good behavior. 

I ended up having to get up at 4 am last night after putting him to bed in the crate around 12am (after i took him outside) because he was whining so loud and so long. I took him out cause I thought he wanted attention but really he wanted to go to the bathroom. So he had an accident in the house (outside of the small pee accidents he had earlier) and after I took him outside to finish. I brought him back in, gave him a little food and water and then put him back in the crate. He slept for about 3 hours and then was back to whining. 

I got up for class and took him out. This time when I took him out but this time he seemed to be having issues with doing his poop business. It seemed as if he was struggling but the only thing I can attribute that to is his change in food from what his original owner gave him to what I am currently giving him. He also was worrying me because of his yelping and scratching. I gave him the flee and tick medicine last night around 8 or 9 pm and he seems to be going through a tough time with the flees and ticks. He scratches around his neck where I put the flee medicine and where his collar is. I was worried the collar was irritating him (but I did the finger check and its not too tight) or the flees and ticks were just freaking out because of the medicine. Today, around the same time I gave him the flee medicine yesterday I plan on giving him a bath with a oatmeal shampoo I bought to hopefully give him some relief from the flees, ticks, and itching. 

I want to get him to stop yelping and whining as soon as possible. I also want to start training him as soon as possible. Im a very mellow, laid back person who shows a lot of affection. I feel this puppy was the right move for me but I just need a little help on the way. If anyone has any tips, question, or suggestions please feel free to let me know or reply. I would really appreciate it. 


-LaDay&Rallo[/QUOTE]


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## Irene V. (Dec 12, 2011)

LaDay&Rallo said:


> Ok so to start off let me address all the negative people who have replied. Your reply was not needed. My dog is not going to end up in the pound and just because I took him at 6 weeks says little about my capability as a dog owner. Negativity is not needed and I don't appreciate it. I came to this forum for advice and suggestions not your personal issues with my decision.
> 
> Moving on, to all of you who have been so helpful and suggested things I really appreciate it. I believe that every dog is different and what might work for one dog may not work for others so trying out and working out what is best for you is always key. I appreciate all the warning, answers, feedback, and suggestions to my issues. I have taken them all into consideration when it comes to dealing with my new puppy.
> 
> ...



It sounds to me like you have been doing a great job with your new puppy. Unfortunately, there is no magic cure for itching in puppies and dogs. There is a wide variety of reasons for why they itch and scratch themselves. A veterinarian is like a detective trying to hone in on what could be causing the dog to itch. The itching in a dog is a symptom and not a disease, so a visit to your vet will not garner a cure. It will take more than one visit for the vet to figure out what is going on with your puppy.

Some ways to control itching in your puppy are clothing, food change (but check with your vet first) your puppy could have a food allergy; and bathing your puppy regularly. You would be surprise what a simple T-shirt or form-fitting dog suit made of a light fabric could do to help control itching. The fabric keeps allergens off the skin and prevents a dog from chewing an irritant into an open sore.

Hope these ideas help you and your new puppy.


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## jersey_gray (Dec 8, 2011)

This is not what you seem to want to hear but that puppy really should not be taken to a community bathroom before he's fully vaccinated. My vet had 12 cases of Parvo in one month. Horrible illness and highly contagious. Also completely preventable by keeping puppy's paws from touching public ground just until their fully vaccinated. Your puppy's life is worth that very small precaution. Parvo is truly a horrible way for a puppy to die.


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## mashlee08 (Feb 24, 2012)

jersey_gray said:


> Parvo is truly a horrible way for a puppy to die.


Quoted for emphasis.


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## skysky (Dec 18, 2011)

Pawzk9 said:


> That's really a lot of assumption on your part. Lots of people get pups at under the ideal age. Sometimes, if the "breeder" is neglectful, it's actually better for the pup to be somewhere they are being cared for, though not a perfect solution. It's nuts to assume someone is going to dump their pup at the shelter because they are asking questions about house training.


 I think the concern is that someone who describes himself as experienced with dogs is showing frustration that a 6 wk old puppy is whining and yelping, needs to go potty frequently, and is not content to be crated for long hrs while the owner sleeps or will be away for long hrs at school. There's clearly an expectation of a high level of self-sufficiency from this puppy starting immediately. A rat terrier is a very high energy dog and is not a breed that will do well sitting in a crate for long hours, especially as a puppy. Most experienced dog owners would know that a dog should not be expected to urinate or defecate in its sleeping quarters (the crate) in lieu of being taken outside with or without puppy pads. The shelters are full of dogs who didn't live up to their owner's unrealistic expectations or fit in with busy schedules. I think most readers would agree that while the owner's intentions are good, a high maintenance puppy probably isn't the best choice for this person's lifestyle. An older, trained dog accustomed to apartment living might be a better choice, assuming it's not left for too long.


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## sassafras (Jun 22, 2010)

skysky said:


> I think most readers would agree that while the owner's intentions are good, a high maintenance puppy probably isn't the best choice for this person's lifestyle.


LOL we don't even really know what this person's lifestyle IS other than that they are a student living in an apartment with a roommate and "a bit busy". A lot of students' schedules have gaps in them during the day when they can come home, or at higher/graduate levels a lot of work may be done at home working on, say, a dissertation so the person is "busy" but present. 

So please don't ascribe YOUR assumptions and interpretation of the situation to the rest of us... because to me it simply looks to me like someone who didn't realize how different a 6 week old puppy is from even a slightly older puppy, got in over their head, and is now asking for help with the situation. Someone who hasn't been around puppies this young before simply isn't going to realize how much more they whine, the differences in pottying, etc. How inexperience automatically translates into the puppy necessarily being doomed to sitting in a crate for long hours for the rest of its life or being dumped at a shelter is frankly beyond me.


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## Miss Lady's Mama (Jun 30, 2012)

It doesn't matter if there are any other dogs are around, their feces are! Even with all feces cleaned up PARVO can remain in the soil. Please, believe this. My puppy got PARVO ONE DAY before her last vaccination, ONE DAY! We almost lost her, and she had never even left our yard! Petsmart is not a good idea either even though I know you took him there to see the bet. Keep him home and secluded from exposure until shots are complete. Use puppy pads and be patient. For quicker results in the yapping dept. he could sleep with you. No it won't help with crate training, and no it won't stop him from needing to potty. What it will do is give him a warm body to bond with, help him feel more secure, less scared, and allow you a little more sleep. If I can do anything else please let me know. Raising a puppy will take time, love, compassion, and like minded friends!


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## hanksimon (Mar 18, 2009)

You go Girl!!!

1. "Rallo seems to prefer going outside to do his business rather than staying in and using the puppy pad."
This is a good thing that leads me to believe that he already wants to stay clean. It may not be convenient, but ya'll can figure out a compromise. Just accept that there will be some accidents until he's 6 mos. One thing that you might consider, instead of a pad, is a Doggie Litter box like Pawzk9 suggests. I've always thought that was so cool, but I've always had large dogs also... and didn't want a sandbox in my house 
2. I'm inferring that you're in Houston, or somewhere in Texas, and we've had a bad year for fleas. This is the first time in 10 years that I've needed to use flea meds, and I'm using Frontline Plus ... which I do not like. It kills fleas, but does not repel them, and seems to require the flea to bite the dog to kill it !? So my dog has fewer fleas, but he's still scratching. So, I learned that I need a flea med that repels, also. I can't advice about age for using these meds or safety for mixing, or how long to wait.
3. In addition, we have lots of things that can cause allergies. If you can rain from Hurricane Isaac, it may wash away irritants or may increase mold  In addition, I suggest that you try not to wash Rallo too much, b/c that washes away the skin oils... which can make him itchy. [BTW, you may have access to a local Vet school, which used to be a good deal, especially for students.)
4. Yelping/barking - I dunno if a rat terrier is a barky dog. I know that a JRT and a Chi can bark a lot. Yuo can try to anticipate that by lots and lots of socialization with situations, people, and locations. But carry him for now (he may hate that), to avoid letting him walk on areas that may have parvo/distemper .... until he has all 3 sets of his shots... or until you get the OK from the Vet. Some areas of Texas are safer than others.
5. Teach him Bite Inhibition now, so that he reduce nipping, and so that he also won't break the skin if there is a scare, injury, or emergency.
6. And, it sounds like he's ready for training - Sit, Down, Come, Name, Stay. He's be very distracted... but it'll come.


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## Laurelin (Nov 2, 2006)

If I followed a lot of the advice on this forum I would never have been deemed worthy enough to get a dog much less a puppy... Real people work/go to school/etc. It is totally unrealistic to think someone needs to be there 24/7 with their puppy. My puppies have all survived being alone for part of the day. It all depends on what you do in the part of the day you ARE there and make it count. 

Yep, it's not a good start and sounds like a bad breeder but that said assuming that this is a bad owner is ridiculous. People make mistakes but can still be great dog owners. We got Nikki at 5 weeks old and she lived her nearly 13 years happy and healthy and a well rounded dog. The situation is not ideal but the OP has the dog now and is working on doing things right from here on in. 

I don't like potty pads much at all. Mia came to me started on potty pads by her breeder and seemed to not be able to tell the difference between potty pad = okay and rug on floor = not okay. If the pup is going outside and doing fine, I'd encourage that. I stopped Mia's potty pad training at all and supervised constantly until she was only going outside. Had to pull up all the rugs too. The interesting thing is at 3 years I reintroduced the potty pad and she remembered her training and now will choose to go outside but in an emergency will go on the pee pad. The couple times she's gotten sick while I'm at work, the potty pad has been a lifesaver. 

My puppy hated her crate but I discovered she did much better in an x-pen so ended up going that route. She did scream and cry for the first few weeks but it got better (particularly when I switched to a pen). IT just takes time for a pup to understand the rules and expectations for them. Patience and consistency are the key and finding out what works for you both.


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## Willowy (Dec 10, 2007)

I agree the puppy should be going potty outside. . .but it sounds like the only potty area the OP has available is the communal apartment complex "dog area". Which seems awfully dangerous for a little guy . If they could find a place that very few dogs have used, that would be a lot safer.


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## Laurelin (Nov 2, 2006)

Yeah I forgot about that. I think I would do a fake turf area indoors for the time being then. Or a litter box.


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