# 5 month old puppy doesn't want to play



## friet (Dec 14, 2011)

Another thread about my 5 month old labrador puppy I've adopted last week.
Before I was getting him I had this idea of him running after tennisballs, frisbee, teaching him to fetch etc... 
But it turns out he doesn't want to play at all. In the garden he runs after a tennisball maybe twice and then wanders off sniffing everything or just stands there with a look on his face saying "what a stupid game". 

Today I've walked him for 45 mins and let him run around in the garden for half an hour. Rest of the day he was in the house, on the carpet. So you would think "perfect time to play, he must be full of energy." So I wanted to try to teach him fetch using this video: http://youtu.be/Ccw1uwvbx00
Step 1: get him excited. Fail. I wave the thing around, give him a treat for the slightest bit of cooperation to get him to work with me. Nothing. I sit there for 10 minutes waving the thing, "take", "take it", making sounds... nothing. He just stands there and looks around. Again with the "meh, boring" on his face.

What is wrong? Why doesn't this puppy want to play (the whole time)?


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## Labmom4 (Feb 1, 2011)

I'd give him more time. Sounds like he's still adjusting to his new home to me


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## Kyllobernese (Feb 5, 2008)

You have just had the puppy for a week. Give him some time to get settled in as depending on his upbringing, he may have never had the chance to play with people before. I think you will find, the longer you have him, the more he will start acting like you want him to.


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## trainingjunkie (Feb 10, 2010)

I agree completely with giving him time to settle in. Too much too fast can be scary for a new dog.

Then though, I would put a soft tuggable toy on a string and pull it away from the pup. This will likely get the game started and you will have enough distance that you won't accidently intimidate your pup. Gradually, shorten the rope. This will get a bunch of them playing once they aren't stressed.


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## hanksimon (Mar 18, 2009)

Agreed. Give him time. In a week or two he'll be a different dog. Also, he is probably loosing his baby teeth and getting his adult teeth, so he may be teething and his mouth may be a little sore.


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## petpeeve (Jun 10, 2010)

> Today I've walked him for 45 mins and let him run around in the garden for half an hour. Rest of the day he was in the house, on the carpet. So you would think "perfect time to play, he must be full of energy."


 Hmm, maybe it's not the perfect time. Walking him for 45 mins plus a thirty min romp in the garden can sometimes be pretty taxing on a 5 month old puppy. You could try playing _before_ you excercise him, make sure he truly is full of energy.



> So I wanted to try to teach him fetch using this video: http://youtu.be/Ccw1uwvbx00


 IMO it's not the all-around best video to use for example. There are much better ones. I did kinda like the play shown between the 1:07 and 1:21 mark, that stuff is good for a new, green, unsure puppy. The rest of the vid though ? mmm, no.



> In the garden he runs after a tennisball maybe twice and then wanders off sniffing everything or just stands there with a look on his face saying "what a stupid game".


 Start by playing inside the house. There are less distractions, and you'll greatly diminish the whole aspect of competing with the environment.



> Step 1: get him excited. Fail. I wave the thing around, give him a treat for the slightest bit of cooperation to get him to work with me. Nothing


 Not sure what "the thing" is. Tennis ball maybe ? Boring. Allow the dog to choose his own reinforcers. Most times, arbitrarily choosing them yourself doesn't produce good results. Start with a selection of various furry-wiggly-squeaky-type toys to see which one(s) _really_ get _him_ going.



> I sit there for 10 minutes waving the thing, "take", "take it", making sounds... nothing. He just stands there and looks around. Again with the "meh, boring" on his face.


 If you were waving the toy for 5 mins in my face with no reaction, I'd be going meh, boring too. Wave it for 20 sec or so. If he doesn't show any interest by then, it's time to move on to another toy. At this very early point in training, experimentation is the name of the game.



> What is wrong? Why doesn't this puppy want to play (the whole time)?


 Perhaps he's had some previous negative experiences with strong reprimands for chewing on sticks, shoes and socks etc, I dunno. Best to totally ignore these types of things, leave the puppy _in_ the puppy so-to-speak, and just puppy-proof the house and yard ... if that's the case.


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## WheatenDaneMom (Nov 4, 2011)

I would just suggest bringing him to petsmart and seeing if he has any interest in anything... maybe he's a kong dog, bully stick dog... or even a stuffed animal (mine prefer stuffies)... get him some things that he'll pick up on his own in the house and maybe toss around when he's ready. Not all dogs like balls and sticks LOL


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## spotted nikes (Feb 7, 2008)

I'd give him another week or so to settle in. Plus, as mentioned, his mouth may be sore from teething.


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## friet (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks for all the advice. You're probably right, we're rushing into things. But my wife and I wanted a dog for +2 years and the moment is finally here. We're probably too anxious. 

petpeeve, with 'the thing' I meant one of those knotted ropes: http://www.baxterboo.com/images/products/large/zanies-knotted-rope-bones-dog-toy-1.jpg


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## friet (Dec 14, 2011)

petpeeve said:


> IMO it's not the all-around best video to use for example. There are much better ones. I did kinda like the play shown between the 1:07 and 1:21 mark, that stuff is good for a new, green, unsure puppy. The rest of the vid though ? mmm, no.


Just out of curiosoty, why do you consider that a bad video?


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## trainingjunkie (Feb 10, 2010)

And to start off, many dogs have preferences for tug textures. At my house, a rope toy only works for the dogs who already have a strong tug base. Fleece toys on strings are good starter toys. Depends totally on the dog. Orbees on strings can be good too. Or special toys with pouches for food for the really difficult dogs. Some have squeakers and are shaped like squirrels. 

Give it time! Don't ever tug with a teething dog. Even if they want to. The pain in their mouth can be hard to build back from.


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## friet (Dec 14, 2011)

Well, what do you know! Last night he was really playful. We played fetch twice. Both times with 2 toys. I make him excited for 1 toy and throw it. When he runs to it and grabs it I call him and shake the second toy. He comes running back, drops the first toy and gets ready to chase the second one.

We did that twice for a solid 10 minutes. Great.


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## jinnyretr0 (Oct 13, 2009)

That's wonderful! Its great when a puppy starts to get settled in their new house and you begin to see their real personality peek through. Hopefully you'll have many games of fetch in your future


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## dantero (Feb 2, 2011)

Glad to hear you are making progress. Just keep one thing in mind, if you want to build drive for something, always leave them wanting more. If you know the puppy will only chase the ball 3 times, then throw it twice, tease them a little with it, and put it away. If they are good for 10 minutes, at 9 minutes tease them with a little and put it away. Etc. If you always leave them wanting more, the next time you should see an increase in their intensity and drive. If you let them get to the point of deciding it's boring and wandering off, they are going to end the game with that mindset, and next time may not be as excited about playing.


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## friet (Dec 14, 2011)

I might as well use the same thread to ask another question. This time it's less fun.

From time to time, when we're interacting with him everything goes fine and all of a sudden, out of nowhere, he starts to jump on us. Showing his teeth, biting quite hard; hands, legs, clothing,... and growling.

When we tell him "NO" (quite loud cause it's quite scary) he starts barking. Loud aggressive barks. Not some impatient barks but really "i hate you!" barks. We keep saying no, but that doesn't help. The only thing we can do to make him stop is wrestle and pin him to the ground or walk away. I don't want to do neither.
After one of those episodes he immediately quiets down and acts as nothing happened. You can pet him again, he'll lick your hands...

It's been 3 days since on of those episodes happened but today it was 4 times. 3 times my wife, 1 time me. What could be the reason for this behaviour? Do you think castrating him might solve this?

(Maybe I should start a new thread for this?)


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## trainingjunkie (Feb 10, 2010)

This sounds like play behavior. Like your pup gets real worked up and sorta flips out. It's naughty, but NOT aggression. It's play that gets out of control.

My new pup does it too. When she does, I re-direct her to fetching or tugging. If she won't re-direct, I walk away from her until she collects herself and then I re-engage. 

Please, please don't panic and think that this is aggression. It almost certainly is not. Lots of rambunctions puppies get stupid. If this becomes disturbing to you, keep your pup on a light weight leash and when your pup gets this way, do some leash training for treats. You will see your pup switch gears quickly and then you will know it was just "screwing around" behavior.


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## friet (Dec 14, 2011)

It also happens when my wife is sitting on the couch. He jumps on her with his front legs and starts biting a bit. She says no, because we don't want him to sit on the couch or our lap when we're on the couch and then it starts. Biting a bit, then more. My wife gives him a slight push to get him of her and the he starts with the hard bites, tugging and barking. This is in a 10 second timeframe. So very quickly. 
Maybe I'll make a video when it happens again.


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## trainingjunkie (Feb 10, 2010)

Have you ever watched a pup initiate play with a sleeping littermate? They pounce and bite and bark and run away and circle back and generally annoy each other into action...

A video would be good, but I will be surprised if my interpretation or advice change.

I am enduring a 15 week old pup of my own right now and am frequently shocked by her relentlessness, her noise, and her rudeness! I have been puppy free for too long and my last pup was born old. She skipped almost all of the stupidity. As I type, I am sporting a fat lip from a frisbee mishap with my monster. I learned, just now, that she has a 4 foot verticle. Already.


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## hanksimon (Mar 18, 2009)

I'm sorry... you have a Lab puppy. They are all miniature clones of dogs from Hades with needle sharp teeth, a thirst for blood, and a never-ending hunger for play. They are also amazingly tough... and forgiving of mistakes. Put a stamp on his nose and send him to me, and I'll send my 11 yo back to you, so you can see the plush toy that they turn into  

1. However, if you yell NO! at my dog, he will bark at you (he won't bite... but if you bark at him...
2. I agree with what everyone has said - this is not aggression, it's typical Lab play behavior. I think it is a desirable trait, when trained.
3. The episodes may be due to getting overly excited, but there are a few amazingly powerful methods to use with Labs:
4. Teach Bite Inhibition: Look up the Sticky: The Bite Stops Here, in the new owner section. The idea is not to teach him to stop biting like an on/off switch, but to learn to control the strength of his bite, inhibiting hard bites, by communicating with him that it hurts...
5. After you read The Bite Stops Here, read the following steps carefully. This method fails when people leave out a step...
(Always accept any apology! see below- )
Some Tweaks to Bite Inhibition (to get him to stop biting when he wants to play):
1. When the pup bites, then yelp. It should sound about like what the pup does when you step on its paw... don't step on his paw for a sample . When you yelp, the pup should startle briefly and stop nipping. Praise and pet. He'll bite, again.
2. When he bites the second time, Yelp. When he stops, praise and pet. He'll nip again, although it may be a little gentler. ...
3. When he bites a third time, Yelp (see a pattern?). But this time, turn your back for 15 - 30 secs. If he comes around and play bows or barks, then that is an apology. This is important. Accept it, praise and pet... and cringe in expectation of the next nip...
4. When he bites the 4th time, Yelp, then leave the area, placing him in a 2 min. time-out. It is better if you can leave, rather than moving him. Then, return and interact. (He's still hungry...)
5. When he nips the fifth time, yelp, and leave the area, stopping interaction for now.

Pups need to sleep over night in order to learn their lessons. So, keep doing this for 3 days. By the third day, you should notice signficant Bite Inhibition. He may still nip, but it will be softer and he won't draw blood. Keep up the training and make sure that everyone yelps.... Very powerful method.

If you learn the technique, then you can apply the "yelp" to other circumstances, also. I believe that "yelp" is "Please don't do that, I don't like it." in dog communication. I currently use the yelp when my dog plays tug, then runs with the toy, when he fetches and keeps it out of reach or when he takes a treat too quickly.... 

After you and your wife start this, and understand the communication, you can use the yelp (or ouch!) when he barks at you. Yelp with a high pitch, break eye contact, turn your head, and completely withdraw attention. Labs live for attention and live to play (and to eat!!!), so try to pay attention to his reactions - barking, awning, lip licking, ears back, startle, tail down... and so on. I still use the yelp when my dog starts sniffing something that I don't want him to.


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## katielou (Apr 29, 2010)

Dog Balancer said:


> I am going to approach this from a different direction, and it is not to debate or negate anything that has already been said.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Please ignore pretty much everything from this post OP. Dominance has no play here in your dog behavior.

Listen to the previous responses.


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## petpeeve (Jun 10, 2010)

friet said:


> Just out of curiosoty, why do you consider that a bad video?


I really don't wish to unduly criticize the gentleman. It's not that it's a "bad" video, not at all. I just think there are more explicit and detailed ones to be found ... ones which I believe would assist you better.


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## CricketLoops (Apr 18, 2011)

Dog Balancer said:


> I never recommended dominance, and I fail to see how you got that.


It’s not that you “recommended” dominance, it’s that your entire training philosophy is based off the idea that dogs are trying to gain control of our households, and we need to be constantly preventing this from happening by being the “alpha” members of our “packs” -- that we need to always make sure that our dogs know they're at the bottom of the totem pole, and we need to do this by "dominating" them or getting them to "submit" to us. This idea is silly. More importantly, it reflects a significant lack of knowledge about dog behavior.


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## friet (Dec 14, 2011)

Man, this is tiring. Just a bit of play and he starts biting, hard. Attacked my wife on the couch, again. She does the yelp but that excites him even more and starts biting harder. She "yelps" again and it's like it's a signal for him. Like "she is weak, bite more/harder! Pull clothing!". And the growling and barking. She has a bleeding arm now.

I was busy with something and out of nowhere he bites my calves. I'm not a softy but it was quite hard and I didn't expect it so in an angry reflex I gave him quite a hard push with my foot. That was the signal for him to jump higher, all teeth showing and trying to bite. Luckely I had the reflex to jump away.

I don't want to give up, positive vibes. But it's so hard.


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## theyogachick (Aug 2, 2009)

Well, since I am in training to be a trainer, I guess I should listen to you and your three philosopohies...

In reality, dominance theory (or whatever you want to call it) is crap. There, I said it. It is something spouted by TV personalities who have no credentials. 

I do not control my dogs, I do not dominate them. I don't tower over them on a pedestal and say "sumbit to me, lower beings!"--I have taught them proper behavior...not by dominating them, but by reinforcing good behavior and not reinforcing bad behavior. We work together. And one of my dogs has her CGC and her therapy certification...and I did ALL of that without ever alpha rolling or showing dominance. Go figure. 

Oh, and I am a teacher...and I don't show dominance over my students. I earn their respect. Because fear based dominance theory will do nothing in dog training or in teaching.

...and you don't use an apostrophe to show a plural...so it is SONS, not SON'S.

*To the OP:*

The whine/yelp is not a sign to teh puppy that your wife is weak. It is just a techniques that isn't working on your dog. It didn't work for Gracie. I had to stand up and move away from her. She learned better that way. Some dogs are different. I know it is frustrating (and painful--puppy teeth are like razors). Just remember: he is not sure of the proper behavior yet. Continue to ignore the bad and reinforce the good. So, if he DOES stop, praise and treat or whetever. If he doesn't, walk away, etc. I know you can get through this.


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## Miranda16 (Jan 17, 2010)

Also as an addendum to the above ... your dog is still a puppy. He has no clue what the word "No" means to him its just you making noise. Getting up and leaving(leaving for a minute) is a good way for puppy to realize that doing what he just did gets him no more play time. Also with biting, anytime he bites give him something that he is allowed to bite, like replace with a toy.


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## Cracker (May 25, 2009)

To the OP.
I highly recommend that you find a good and certified behaviourist to see the behaviour firsthand. Without seeing what you guys are doing and what the dog is doing and the general environment, it is difficult to ascertain how much of this is overexcited lab pup or whether you are looking at more serious issues. At the very least, you are looking at impulse control and bite inhibition issues.

Dogbalancer has a few good points about not triggering the dog. I am surprised though, that someone who professes to be educated in canine behaviour would use the non scientific definition of the word 'dominate' in a discussion where they mentioned a dog being "dominant". 

Dominance is related to resources, not to overexcited, newly rescued and likely anxious behaviours.


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## Papa Deuce (Mar 26, 2007)

Uh... I have two "retrievers" who don't retrieve anything but their food bowls.


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## Finkie_Mom (Mar 2, 2010)

I say "sit" and my dog sits. Not because I am controlling, but because they have learned that that behavior brings them good things. They have the CHOICE to do it or not to do it. Since I have conditioned them using positive reinforcement, they will most always sit. If you wanted to control your dog in that situation, then you would PLACE the dog in the sit if they did not do it on command. I do not do that, therefore I cannot say that I control my dog. My dogs can do other things as well, and I have never had to lay a hand on them in order to get them to do it. There is a difference between "controlling" an animal and letting them make their own decisions (whether good ones or bad ones). 

And just because you don't bully, beat, or verbally assault your dog, does not mean that you are not causing it to fear. Whether it causes the dog to fear you, to fear objects, to fear situations, whatever. There is plenty of damage that you can do without "beating" a dog.


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## sassafras (Jun 22, 2010)

LOL if I controlled my dogs they would be perfect all the time. And I assure you, they are not, although they are reasonably well trained.


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## theyogachick (Aug 2, 2009)

Funny that you say people are not dogs, but, at the same time you used a teacher analogy and a parent/child analogy to try to get your dominance idea across. But, since we are on it:

Dominance in dog training is VERY different than a dictionary definition of dominance. Dominance theory is the theory that you have to be alpha over your dog. Roll it, scruff shake, etc. It is HIGHLY debated because much of it is based on wolf pack research. You have to be careful about using the word dominance in terms of training. Why? Because a certain TV trainer has made "dominance" theory a widely misused approach. Control and dominance are NOT the same thing. I control resources, situations, etc., but I would hesitate to use the word dominate. That word will get hackles up all over the dog training community (as you can tell).

Control resources--as in the "Nothing in Life is Free" method can help shape behavior. I am not denying that. Controlling in terms of the dominance approach--nope. It is an approach that I avoid.

Also, if you think the dominance approach doesn't instill fear in a dog, watch a dog as they are alpha rolled and tell me if they aren't frightened. 

I worked with a very well respected behaviorist/trainer when obtaining my dog's CGC...and he never once mentioned dominance theory...or tried in any way to assert dominance over my dog. In fact, he showed me how to be a good leader (nothing that I would deny is important) without ever using any dominance based approach...just common sense.

Some articles on dominance theory:

http://www.apdt.com/petowners/choose/dominance.aspx
http://www.apdt.com/petowners/choose/dominancemyths.aspx

Basically it boils down to this--the wording is touchy. Why? Because if the OP looks up dominance and dog training, they are going to get A LOT of bad information that could lead to A LOT of bigger problems. They are going to end up going all DOg Whisperer on this pup and that will lead to issues that may not be able to be fixed.

I would take Cracker's advice over all of it--contact a trainer or a behaviorist and let them see what happens and see what they say. I don't know if this is play or not--but it is something that needs work.


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## ThoseWordsAtBest (Mar 18, 2009)

sassafras said:


> LOL if I controlled my dogs they would be perfect all the time. And I assure you, they are not, although they are reasonably well trained.


Guy urinated on the shower curtain. If that's under my control then I fire myself.


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## theyogachick (Aug 2, 2009)

Finkie_Mom said:


> I say "sit" and my dog sits. Not because I am controlling, but because they have learned that that behavior brings them good things. They have the CHOICE to do it or not to do it. Since I have conditioned them using positive reinforcement, they will most always sit. If you wanted to control your dog in that situation, then you would PLACE the dog in the sit if they did not do it on command. I do not do that, therefore I cannot say that I control my dog. My dogs can do other things as well, and I have never had to lay a hand on them in order to get them to do it. There is a difference between "controlling" an animal and letting them make their own decisions (whether good ones or bad ones).
> 
> And just because you don't bully, beat, or verbally assault your dog, does not mean that you are not causing it to fear. Whether it causes the dog to fear you, to fear objects, to fear situations, whatever. There is plenty of damage that you can do without "beating" a dog.


Times like this make me wish there was a like button!

This is very true. Dogs (like people) have choices to make. Good/bad. They learn the "right" choices by being reinforced (positive/negative)...not by being yelled at for wrong choices. I know that not all dogs learn the same way, and postive reinforcement isn't always going to work, but that is when you take things away (so, for the OP--when the pup bites, walk away...ignore, etc. He is learning that behavior=no more playtime with my people). 

I really hope the OP heeds the advice offered in terms of where to go for help. I have a soft spot for labs!


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## Cracker (May 25, 2009)

Dog Balancer said:


> If you don't think a dog can dominate or control its surroundings,I would suggest finish your dog training classes, get out and rehabilitate dogs. You will find out how wrong you are on that issue.


I say I'm a trainer in training (obviously you looked at my page)...because I am a trainer..in training. The classes continue, indefinitely, because the learning should never stop. I do rehab dogs, I specialize in fearful dogs and in puppy socialization and training. I am also a full time professional dogwalker with 12 years in my own business and 8 years working in the animal health industry. So you don't need to treat me like a newb. It doesn't fly. 

http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/dominance statement.pdf

http://drsophiayin.com/philosophy/dominance/


Now, the main reason everyone here gets in a kerfuffle over dominance is the preponderance of NEWBS who come on her looking for solid advice when they are having difficulties with their dogs (often to point of the dog biting or injuring them) because they TRIED being alpha and being dominant etc and ended up with a dangerous situation. So it's a terminology that gets everyone roiled..because the damage that can be done by someone who DOESN'T understand how leadership, training, CC and DS work and who try to go native with the badly presented abuse that is called "rehabilitating" by the DW...well, they get people injured, dogs broken and often dead. We encourage others on this forum to go with the LIMA model and do not espouse dominance because of the misinterpretations that cause damage. 

Your idea of dominance, thrown into the "everything we do with our dogs is dominance" is a broad brush painting a narrow strip of paper. Of course we control the reinforcers. Of course we cue and they (if well conditioned) respond..at least the majority of the time. Your insistence that this is "dominance" in the milieu of a dog forum is ingenuous.


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## CricketLoops (Apr 18, 2011)

Dog Balancer said:


> If we did not posses either of these two qualities (dominance and leadership) over our dogs, we could not train them, shape their behavior, or break bad behaviors in a domestic environment( dogs live quite differently in the wild than they do in a domestic environment).


I guess this sounds so silly to me because my interest in training/behavior isn't just with dogs -- it's with all animals, and I have experience with training all kinds of animals. I've trained housecats, bobcats, foxes, otters, skunks, rabbits, groundhogs, crows, various BoP, deer, horses... fish, even! I've trained a lot of animals to do a lot of things. 

I would be a fool to think I had "dominance and leadership" over any of those animals. Instead, I was able to teach because I had something those animals wanted. So.. is it only dogs, and no other animal, that we must have "dominance and leadership" over before they can learn from us? 

I "lead" dogs by showing them that they can get everything they ever wanted and more by listening to me, and that they can't get things they want (or that they can have things removed from them) by not listening to me. That's how I "led" all those other animals.

It seems to me like you say "dominance and leadership" but you mean "showing the animal that you control its resources." 



Dog Balancer said:


> The only way to not reinforce bad behavior is to teach good behavior


Uh, what? The only way to not reinforce bad behavior is to remove the reinforcement for the bad behavior. This is basic learning theory. 

Teaching good behavior usually lessens bad behavior when you've increased the value of the good behavior above and beyond the bad behavior, so the dog consistently chooses the good over the bad. 



Dog Balancer said:


> I like how you got that, but cannot understand the true definition of dominance. It certainly is not what you think it is.


As others have pointed out, the error in understanding here is yours. "Dominance" in dogs is not synonymous with "Leadership". "Dominance" in dogs refers to a specific theory that dogs are in a constant struggle with people to control the best resources, based on observations of unrelated wolves in captivity. People who are believers in dominance theory generally advocate "not letting your dog sense weakness", level training, alpha rolling and otherwise correcting a dog for "dominant behavior" like staring, panting, barking, growling, freezing, whining, resource guarding, alert barking, being afraid of grooming tools, etc. People who advocate "dominance theory" generally believe that most behavior problems manifest because people are not asserting their leadership role or "alpha status" over their dog.


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## cshellenberger (Dec 2, 2006)

Dog Balancer said:


> Neutering is a great thing to do, as this reduces a dog's tendency towards aggression. If also takes away the desire for a dog to run away to mate.
> 
> 
> As I have said above, Neutering will definitely help, it reduces aggression in male dogs for sure.


Nuetering will indeed take away the desire to mate, HOWEVER ther is NO proof that Nuetering (or spaying) reduces aggression. 

When your dog starts acting like a spoiled brat, take away what he's trying to get from you, ATTENTION. Turn your back, BE A TREE (Stand straight, NO eye contact, arms crossed with hands tucked under and keep your back to him.) if that doesn't work, go to another room and if needed shut the door on him (without hurting him) REWARD desired behavior anytime it occurs.


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## cshellenberger (Dec 2, 2006)

Miranda16 said:


> Also as an addendum to the above ... your dog is still a puppy. He has no clue what the word "No" means to him its just you making noise. Getting up and leaving(leaving for a minute) is a good way for puppy to realize that doing what he just did gets him no more play time. Also with biting, anytime he bites give him something that he is allowed to bite, like replace with a toy.


 
Oh and THIS, NO is the most overused word when training dogs (The second of late is tssssst). They have NO idea what it means, instead of using 'no' train a behavior witha real command. If your dog's a jumper, train the dog to 'sit' the dog cannot jump from a sit!


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## petpeeve (Jun 10, 2010)

Dog Balancer said:


> People are not dogs, and what works for people will not work for dogs.


Oh, really ??? .. Then I'll assume if I invert that, it's safe to say 'what works for dogs will not work for people'.

Ya know ... Karen Pryor, for one, actually makes a pretty convincing case to the contrary in her landmark book _"Don't Shoot the Dog"_. A good read for all, I highly recommend it.


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