# Puppy eating poop and tearing up pee-pads. Advice pls



## Enhasa (Feb 6, 2010)

My Pomeranian Puppy is eating its own poop at times and also constantly been tearing up pee-pads (housebreaking pads, piddle pads, whatever u call them).

As for eating its poop, it seems to do it on its own whim. Sometimes he eats it, sometimes he leaves it alone. Pretty much whenever he feels like hes in the mood and is really unpredictable. How can I correct it? Its hard for me to pay attention to it 24/7 to see whether its pooping. 
I was recommended this NaturVet Coprophagia Deterrent Tablets for Dogs at Petco by one of the workers. Is this good/effective? My dog is a picky eater, so I am not sure if its going to swallow it either. Are there any other deterrents u guys recommend?

Lastly, about the pee-pads. The puppy ENJOYS tearing it up. It seems to do it whenever he feels like it too. Sometimes he doesnt do it at all for 2-3 whole weeks, and whenever hes in the mood he'd tear it one up even after i just replaced it with a new one. Should I spray those bitter sprays on it so he will stop tearing it up? But will it also affect the pee-pad's scent, thus causing him to unable to smell it and pee in the wrong spot???

Whats a good way to correct that?
He knows he shouldnt be doing it because each time after he does it, hes just hiding on its bed shivering away and doesnt dare to look at me. Pretty much acting very guilty. I do not know why too either. I have never beaten him, nor have I yelled at him before. I do say NO with a firm tone and obviously I'd look pissed or sound pissed when that happens usually.

Help please, 

Thanks


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## DogPaw (Jan 11, 2009)

How old is your pup and why not just teach him to potty outside. As for eating his poop you need to pick it up before he has a chance to eat it if possible. I've heard of those tablets your talking about but I don't know if they work or not. If you were to take him outside on a leash to poop then you would be right there to clean it up or remove the dog before he can eat it. Taking him out to pee as well so then you don't need the pee pads.


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## rileysmommy (Jan 4, 2010)

Hi,

I had the exact same problem with Riley a couple of months ago.

The poop eating tablets did not work for him at all. Neither did Forbid (this powder that you add to their food). My vet however recommended these other tablets, (not naturvet brand) that is presciption only and this did work wonders! I can't remember the brand off the top of my head right now cos i'm at work but i'll get it to you later. It comes in a white bottle which contains 150 tablets. They're little green things that smells very herbal-ly. Riley loves it and thinks it's a treat. 

As for the puppy pad ripping, have you tried using a holder for it? It not only keeps the pad from folding over but it also makes it hard for your puppy to rip it. This totally worked with Riley and after a while, we didn't even need to use it anymore because he got used to not being able to rip the pads. 

Here's the one I used:

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752019


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## Labsnothers (Oct 10, 2009)

This can best be solved by not leaving him alone with the pee pads and stools. 

Much of housebreaking is not training the puppy, but making it easier for your puppy, you, and your carpet while its body to catches up to its instincts. At around 8 weeks when the puppy goes to its new home, the time from when it realizes it has to go, and when it can't wait any longer is a matter of seconds. Only time will fix that. You can hardly be expected to be attentive enough to avoid all accidents. There is no sense punishing the puppy for your inattention. It is not fair to punish you either, but you still have to clean it up if you didn't have the puppy outside in time.

Housebreaking starts before you get home with the new puppy. If you don't have a crate, buy one. I prefer the more enclosed, den like plastic ones. Skip the bedding. At first it gets wet, and later it can be chewed into choking hazards. A wire grid in the bottom will help keep the puppy up out of accidents at first. They are available with the crates, but expensive and hard to find. A piece of closely spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is cheaper. I am now using a plastic vegetable bin with plenty of holes drilled in the bottom. It helps block off part of the crate for the smaller puppy. If you already have a metal crate, covering it may help. Just make sure you use something the puppy can't pull in and chew. Dogs that start out in crates as little puppies, accept them very well. Never leave an unattended puppy loose in the house. If nobody can watch it, put it in the crate. I suggest letting the dog have its crate all its life. A crate needs to be just big enough for a dog to stretch out in.

Choose a command and spot you want it to use. The less accessible to strays, the less chance of serious disease. If it is a female, choosing a non grassy spot will avoid brown spots later. When you bring it home, take it to the spot and give it the command in a firm, but friendly voice. Keep repeating the command and let the puppy sniff around. Sometimes you need to walk it around to stimulate its body to eliminate. If it does anything, praise it. Really let it know what a good dog it is and how much you love it, and maybe a treat. Note, being out there not only means you can praise it, but it also keeps it from being snatched by a hawk. If it doesn't go, take it inside and give it a drink and any meals scheduled. A young puppy will need to go out immediately afterward. Go to the spot and follow the above routine. Praising it if it goes is extremely important. If it doesn't go, take it back inside and put it in its crate and try again soon. Do not let it loose in the house until it does go.

At first it is your responsibility to know and take the puppy out when it needs to go. It needs to go out the first thing in the morning, after eating, drinking, and sleeping. If it quits playing, and starts running around sniffing, it is looking for a place to go. Take it out quickly. You will just have to be what I call puppy broke until it is a little older. How successful you are depends on how attentive you are.

By the time most dogs are about 3 months old, they have figured out that if they go to the door and stand, you will let them out. The praise slowly shifts to going to the door. Some people hang a bell there for the dog to paw. If your dog doesn't figure this out, try praising it and putting it out if it even gets near the door. When you catch it in the act, give it a sharp ''Ah, ah, ah!'' and take it out. Clean up accidents promptly. I mostly keep the little puppies out of the carpeted rooms. Still I need the can of carpet foam sometimes. First blot up all the urine you can with a dry towel. Keep moving it and stepping on it until a fresh area stays dry. A couple big putty knives work well on bowel movements. Just slide one under it while holding it with the other. This gets it up with a minimum of pushing it down into the carpet. This works with even relatively soft ones, vomit, dirt from over turned house plants, or anything else from solids to thick liquids. Finish up with a good shot of carpet foam. Note, do not let the puppy lick up the carpet foam. Once the dog is reliably housebroken, your carpet may need a good steam cleaning.

Many people strongly strongly push cleaning up all evidence of past accidents. I am slower to suggest that. Dogs will return to the same spot if they can find it. When you see one sniffing the spot, that is your clue to run it out.


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## Triskit (Feb 1, 2010)

My vet recommended carrots for pets eating poo. Somehow makes it less desirable?


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## skelaki (Nov 9, 2006)

The best thing I've found in the past was adding a bit of PLAIN canned pumpkin (not the pie mix) to the dog's food. Most dogs love it, it's good for them, but seems to make the poop taste bad.

For the pad problem, you could get and use the trays made to keep the pads in. That might help. But the best thing is to teach the dog to go outside even if "outside" is just a balcony or small patio area for a condo or apartment. As a side note: if you get a crate and crate train you'll be very glad you did. Also, do teach the pup to go on command. It comes in real handy at times.


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## Me And My Pal (Feb 4, 2010)

Triskit said:


> My vet recommended carrots for pets eating poo. Somehow makes it less desirable?


thats what my vet said to


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## OnaRhea (Mar 1, 2011)

I know that where I live my dog can't go outside, maybe that is the case where you are at? I live in Minnesota (ice box state) and have a 1 pound chihuahua! He deffinately is unable to go out in -20 degree weather. So it's either pee pad or my floor!  I have your same problems, dog eating his poo and tearing up his pads. I also heard that the pumpkin trick works well but I haven't tried it yet, I ordered some wasable cloth puppy pee pads. Hopefully the more sturdy cloth ones will help deter him from tearing them up.  Good luck!


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