# Welded/Woven Wire Fencing



## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

I'm planning on putting a welded or woven wire fence up with metal T posts. How tall should it be? It's easier to find 4ft height in large rolls, but I'm not sure if it will be too short. Ryker is very respectful of boundaries and isn't a jumper or climber and he won't be outside unsupervised. Do you think 4ft would be okay or should I go with 5ft? 

Also, how deep do I need to put the T posts in the ground?


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## Willowy (Dec 10, 2007)

The t-posts have those little wings. . .I think you sink them about a couple inches past the wings. Well, I just sank them until they were 4 feet tall so I didn't pay attention to how far the wings went down .

4 feet is enough for my dogs.


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Willowy said:


> The t-posts have those little wings. . .I think you sink them about a couple inches past the wings. Well, I just sank them until they were 4 feet tall so I didn't pay attention to how far the wings went down .
> 
> 4 feet is enough for my dogs.


Thanks! Do your dogs try to stand up on the fence with their front paws? I'm worried because the edge would just be thin metal that it could hurt the paws if he stood up on it. How sturdy is it? Do you put concrete in the post holes?


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Oh and I need to fence in about 300ft. Is it easier to buy multiple smaller rolls or one large roll for the whole thing? If I got smaller rolls, how do I attach them together?


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

jade5280 said:


> Thanks! Do your dogs try to stand up on the fence with their front paws? I'm worried because the edge would just be thin metal that it could hurt the paws if he stood up on it. How sturdy is it? Do you put concrete in the post holes?


Are you looking to do this as a permanent fence? Aside from price, the main reason to use T-Posts and woven wire is because it is relatively removable. So no concrete.

If you're looking for a permanent but affordable fencing option, you can use 4x4 posts, woven wire and a 1x4 wooden top rail and staple gun the wire to the wood.



jade5280 said:


> Oh and I need to fence in about 300ft. Is it easier to buy multiple smaller rolls or one large roll for the whole thing? If I got smaller rolls, how do I attach them together?


A 300 foot roll is going to be around 200 lbs. NOT easy to work with at all. I'd buy 50 or 100 foot lengths for practical reasons even though it costs a tiny bit more on a per foot basis. 
You can buy wire and snip it to length and twist tie things like the woven wire to other woven wire or to posts or existing fences. Just use a pair of pliers to twist it tight and bend the ends over for safety.


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## Willowy (Dec 10, 2007)

It's wobbly at the top so they don't like to stand up against it. They're also too old to put their feet 4 feet up . It seems taller than the chain-link fence at my house in town. It's not really thin---I got woven step-proof horse fence, not sure if the others are thinner. And it's not sharp at the top; I guess that's not good for horses. I didn't use any cement, just did the cross-bars at the corners. And I didn't sink any wooden posts in the corners or middle like I see for some fences, I just used t-bars all the way. We'll see how long it lasts; I was just trying to slap up a quick fence. But it seems pretty sturdy. 

I wouldn't want to stop/restart in the middle. If you get smaller rolls try to make the ends at the corners.


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Shell said:


> Are you looking to do this as a permanent fence? Aside from price, the main reason to use T-Posts and woven wire is because it is relatively removable. So no concrete.
> 
> If you're looking for a permanent but affordable fencing option, you can use 4x4 posts, woven wire and a 1x4 wooden top rail and staple gun the wire to the wood.
> 
> ...


I'm really just looking for something quick and easy right now. I don't plan on being here for more than 5 more years so it's okay if it's not super durable. Yeah I think I'm going to buy smaller rolls. Do you think it would be better to cut the fence to the length of each side and then put it up?



Willowy said:


> It's wobbly at the top so they don't like to stand up against it. They're also too old to put their feet 4 feet up . It seems taller than the chain-link fence at my house in town. It's not really thin---I got woven step-proof horse fence, not sure if the others are thinner. And it's not sharp at the top; I guess that's not good for horses. I didn't use any cement, just did the cross-bars at the corners. And I didn't sink any wooden posts in the corners or middle like I see for some fences, I just used t-bars all the way. We'll see how long it lasts; I was just trying to slap up a quick fence. But it seems pretty sturdy.
> 
> I wouldn't want to stop/restart in the middle. If you get smaller rolls try to make the ends at the corners.


 I've been looking at the woven non climb horse fence. It's more expensive than regular welded wire but I don't like the sharp ends on the welded wire. Did you stretch then fence? I read that you need a fence stretcher


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

How would I find out where the water and electrical lines are for my house? I wouldn't want to drive a post into the ground straight into the water pipe lol


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

jade5280 said:


> How would I find out where the water and electrical lines are for my house? I wouldn't want to drive a post into the ground straight into the water pipe lol


Public utilities can be located by using a "call before you dig" service which should be provided free by public works or similar. 

Private utilities, like the lines between a house and a detached garage are generally not marked and you have to use some logic as to where they are likely to be located and hand dig in those areas.

Personally, if I were going to be in a house for at least 3+ years, I'd probably go ahead and put up a bit "nicer" and sturdier fence with a top rail if you have a dog that puts paws on top of the fence.


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## Hector4 (Sep 16, 2013)

I was thinking of something like this to layer onto of the neighbor's fence and it'll work for me because the fence is on top of a 1-2 retaining wall, so dogs can't dig out.

http://www.thefenceguy.us/html/board.html


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## Willowy (Dec 10, 2007)

I didn't strecth the fence so it looks a little wonky. Still holds dogs .


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Shell said:


> Public utilities can be located by using a "call before you dig" service which should be provided free by public works or similar.
> 
> Private utilities, like the lines between a house and a detached garage are generally not marked and you have to use some logic as to where they are likely to be located and hand dig in those areas.
> 
> Personally, if I were going to be in a house for at least 3+ years, I'd probably go ahead and put up a bit "nicer" and sturdier fence with a top rail if you have a dog that puts paws on top of the fence.


I've been debating this. If I did that I would have to use wooden posts, are they harder to put in that the regular metal T posts? I was hoping we would just be able to use a post driver to put in the posts instead of digging.



Hector4 said:


> I was thinking of something like this to layer onto of the neighbor's fence and it'll work for me because the fence is on top of a 1-2 retaining wall, so dogs can't dig out.
> 
> http://www.thefenceguy.us/html/board.html


That fence is nice. I was originally thinking about use split rail fencing but that would cost me over $1000. I was hoping to try and keep it under $600


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

Yes, wooden posts are harder to put in than T-posts.

This is one of the nicest homemade fences I've seen (from a vacation rental that is dog-friendly) and a variation on in (4 ft high instead of 6 ft and 1x4s instead of 1x6s) could be fairly affordable.


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## JohnnyBandit (Sep 19, 2008)

jade5280 said:


> I'm planning on putting a welded or woven wire fence up with metal T posts. How tall should it be? It's easier to find 4ft height in large rolls, but I'm not sure if it will be too short. Ryker is very respectful of boundaries and isn't a jumper or climber and he won't be outside unsupervised. Do you think 4ft would be okay or should I go with 5ft?
> 
> Also, how deep do I need to put the T posts in the ground?


Ryker the dog in the photo? Six foot... And If that dog really wants out a set up with t posts will not stop him.


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Shell said:


> Yes, wooden posts are harder to put in than T-posts.
> 
> This is one of the nicest homemade fences I've seen (from a vacation rental that is dog-friendly) and a variation on in (4 ft high instead of 6 ft and 1x4s instead of 1x6s) could be fairly affordable.


That is really nice. I'll look into pricing on 1x4s it is prob a ton cheaper than split rail. I'll ask SO about the extra work too 



JohnnyBandit said:


> Ryker the dog in the photo? Six foot... And If that dog really wants out a set up with t posts will not stop him.


He looks bigger than he is. He's only about 57lbs. 6ft just seems so high. But I am worried about what he will do if he sees a cat. If he sees one while he's out on his trolley he just looks at it and hasn't broken any leashes. He wont even push a screen door open so I'm hoping he will respect the fence and not try to get over it. He won't be left out alone either.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

If I was doing a fence from scratch for a larger dog and/or a dog with any kind of prey drive, I'd go 6 foot. I'd also go for a 6 ft fence if I had neighbors who may in the future have dogs or kids around. Once you're making the effort to put posts in for example, it isn't any harder to put in posts for a 6 ft fence vs 4 ft fence. The cost difference for the horizontal wood is nothing and the cost difference on the wire isn't huge. I'd say, overall it might be 15% more expensive to put up a 6 ft wooden fence like the one in the photo I post as compared to a 4 ft of the same style. 

I have a 4 foot fence and its generally fine but it was there when I bought the house, I would prefer the little extra peace of mind for 6 ft unless that was a completely deal breaker on cost ya know?


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## doggiepop (Feb 27, 2014)

don't trust your dog isn't a jumper or climber. make sure the fence is tall enough so he can't jump out
and do something to the fence to make sure he can't climb out or dig out.


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## PatriciafromCO (Oct 7, 2012)

I put up the 5ft field fence 100 ft rolls I think that is the same thing.. had to get the taller T-post and you have to measure from above the wings to get the right size for the fence (duh for me on the learning curb) never got around to doing it.. but the original project was to put in some wood post (corners, mid length) and run a top line for the field fence to stand up with some strength if the dogs jumped on it.. never needed to do it, as the GSD's were not jumpers not even wanting to pounce on the fence... just pace back and forth. A good a larger area went up in 3 days.. I used my tractor to with a crank pully and fence stretcher to stretch it myself.. Still standing after several years, no deterioration at all and hasn't sagged either.. I would be able to untie it and roll it back up to move it if I needed to.. not a bad investment.


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## BernerMax (Mar 15, 2013)

yeah we have the 5 ft high field fence with wooden posts in corners and for gates, with the fence tightener gadget that really works well and a topline wire across the top- its hard to do yourself (we had a guy do it) unless you are experienced... but works great. Most issue we had was dog getting out _under_ the cattle gate, not over the fence...


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to go with 5ft instead. 



BernerMax said:


> yeah we have the 5 ft high field fence with wooden posts in corners and for gates, with the fence tightener gadget that really works well and a topline wire across the top- its hard to do yourself (we had a guy do it) unless you are experienced... but works great. Most issue we had was dog getting out _under_ the cattle gate, not over the fence...


What is a topline wire?


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## Willowy (Dec 10, 2007)

A topline wire (what's it called on the bottom?  My dad put one on the bottom of his fence so the dogs couldn't push out) is a cable wire you run through the fence mesh, and tighten it on the corners. It holds the topline taut and keeps the fence from sagging. And keeps dogs from pushing the wire out on the bottom.


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Willowy said:


> A topline wire (what's it called on the bottom?  My dad put one on the bottom of his fence so the dogs couldn't push out) is a cable wire you run through the fence mesh, and tighten it on the corners. It holds the topline taut and keeps the fence from sagging. And keeps dogs from pushing the wire out on the bottom.


Is this necessary? Do you have it on your fence? I also read that you should put wooden braces on the corners. This is starting to sound so much more complicated than I thought lol.


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## cookieface (Jul 6, 2011)

Here are a few pictures that show our fence (which is what I think you're talking about). It wasn't difficult to install (um, wasn't difficult for my husband to install), is removable, and almost disappears into the background. 

Katie has never tried to violate it even when there is something tempting on the other side (if something happens to enter the yard, she will chase it until it leaves or she catches and kills it, so it's not for lack of prey drive). Tyson is still a momma's boy and doesn't wander too far from me, but I'll have my eyes on him as he grows.


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

cookieface said:


> Here are a few pictures that show our fence (which is what I think you're talking about). It wasn't difficult to install (um, wasn't difficult for my husband to install), is removable, and almost disappears into the background.
> 
> Katie has never tried to violate it even when there is something tempting on the other side (if something happens to enter the yard, she will chase it until it leaves or she catches and kills it, so it's not for lack of prey drive). Tyson is still a momma's boy and doesn't wander too far from me, but I'll have my eyes on him as he grows.
> 
> ...


Yes that's what I was looking to do. Did you have to put braces on the corners? Is it 5ft? Also, did you use welded or woven wire?


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## sassafras (Jun 22, 2010)

jade5280 said:


> He looks bigger than he is. He's only about 57lbs. 6ft just seems so high. But I am worried about what he will do if he sees a cat. If he sees one while he's out on his trolley he just looks at it and hasn't broken any leashes. He wont even push a screen door open so I'm hoping he will respect the fence and not try to get over it. He won't be left out alone either.


I will never have a fence less than 6' again as long as I have dogs. Maisy, who is all of 50# soaking wet, is the one who learned to sail over our chain link fence like it wasn't even there. And I'm having to put up homemade coyote rollers on my 6' privacy fence (that's thanks to squirrels and Squash, though).


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## elrohwen (Nov 10, 2011)

I can contain Watson with a 3ft garden fence (just plastic mesh, not welded wire) so 4ft should be ok for a dog who doesn't jump or climb. He was able to get under it before we staked it down, but welded wire shouldn't have that issue.

It really depends how permanent you want this to be, and how supervised he will be. I wanted something very temporary, and I only use it for active training so Watson is heavily supervised and doesn't have a chance to figure out an escape plan. If you want this fence to be more permanent and Ryker will spend a lot of time out there, I would say do 5ft.


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## cookieface (Jul 6, 2011)

jade5280 said:


> Yes that's what I was looking to do. Did you have to put braces on the corners? Is it 5ft? Also, did you use welded or woven wire?


I don't think we have braces on the corners - just the T-posts. I'm going to guess it's closer to 4ft. I'm 5'2" and it comes to about my neck so definitely not 5ft. I'm going to say welded - it doesn't look woven the way woven cloth does (if that makes sense). Yeah, not much help. 

I suspect Katie could jump it, but hasn't. And, she's a jumper. I left her tethered with ring gates around her two weeks ago in class; when I returned, she was still tethered, but on the outside of the gates. She has no problem jumping the highest level on the agility jumps. She just doesn't try it with the fence. She sniffs around the bottom edge and, in places, could easily get out, but she doesn't try.

You know your dog. If he doesn't try to get through other boundaries, will always be supervised, and has decent recall, a simple fence may be all you need. If you put it up and find that he starts attempting to break through, you could reinforce and/or make it higher.


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## Kyllobernese (Feb 5, 2008)

I had field fence and wooden posts put in when I first moved as I have a horse. I have never had a problem with the big dogs trying to jump over it or even jump up on it. I did have to add some stucco wire along parts of it where the little dogs go as they can fit through the bigger holes when there is snow in the winter time which was easy as there were already posts to attach it to.

Unless you have a real escape artist (like the Coonhound I had) it keeps most dogs in. She used to crawl under no matter how tight or close to the ground it was. I think even using the tee posts, it would be a good fence.


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## fourdogs (Feb 3, 2014)

We put up 'goat fence' by red top brand last year. It's 4' tall and my dogs respect it fine (well Echo is the only one who could go over, and Cookie, being 4 pounds, could go right through, but thankfully she doesn't go as far out as the fence. 

On the ends/corners we used wooden posts sunk in concrete with H braces. Then the green T posts pounded in every 8 feet in-between. Otherwise, the weight of the fence in the middle will end up pulling your end posts right out of the ground. 

We fenced 3 acres, I forget how many feet of fence that was but even so, with all the posts and fencing it was just under $2000.


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## BernerMax (Mar 15, 2013)

Sorry up late! (Dog woke me up barfing - bile?- I took her out and then I fell back asleep for THREE hours ouch)
With Topline wire usually the fenceposts- both the T posts and wooden posts- are 6 ft posts(with the 5ft fencing, they stick out above it) so the Topline is an additional strand of plain wire (it might be 2 strands, not at home or I would run out and check) that runs accross the top, it gives additional height to your fence and I think if people run hot wire, thats where they run it.... Its tightened along with the rest of the fence... (not sure what the actual reason for it is, just the guy who did our fence, helps his son out on his farm, which includes camels and other livestock, and thats what they do...)....anyway it works great...

we actually use it to fence in our goat pastures, the woven wire is best for goats and other animals that may test the fence - the welds pop out too easily....


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Thank you for all the information everyone! I have a lot to think about. I'm hoping the fence will be up by mid September.


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## luv mi pets (Feb 5, 2012)

Every fence has its woes. I have used the field woven fence. That fence needs to be tightened with a fence tightener. If not put up properly it will sag after a few years. Along the road way I have the split rail fence. I had to go back and put up welded wire. I used the green garden fence to do so. That is lighter and easier to use than other fences. I stapled the fence to the split rail The green color makes the fence disappear so from the road way it just looks like a split rail fence. If you did not do this most dogs would learn how to escape from the split rail. My neighbors (one and only) put up a 5 foot chain link on part of where our boundary meets. The rest they put up a field fence. I put up electric wire to keep my horses off the fence. The rest of the property has 4 foot welded wire with t posts and wood posts on the corners. I used 100' rolls because that is a nice amount to work with. I bought the heavy duty one that is 12.5 gauge wire. You can really tell a difference between the size of the wire. The trick is to place the t post close together. I placed mine every 10 feet. By placing them close together helps with the sagging. Welded wire does not need to be stretched. I did not place the wire on the ground because I wanted to be able to take the weed wacker and keep the fence line clean. One thing I learned is if you do not keep your fence line clean, the weeds and trees can ruin it. I also have two strands of hot wire running along the fence to keep the horses off the fence. Horses leaning on a fence can do great damage. My bigger dogs are on a e-fence too so this helps in keeping the bigger dogs away from the fence. my problem with the woven wire and why I had to take it down. It did get rusty and start breaking but, I had a horse who would paw at the fence and get her hoof caught. The woven wire would not work for me now because the holes in the fence are too big and my Chihuahuas could get thru the fence.


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## jade5280 (Feb 20, 2013)

Yeah that's one thing I'm not looking forward to is mowing and weed whacking around the fence. Oh well.


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