# Puppy in 3 weeks, Evaluate my notes!



## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Hi everyone. So I've been lurking around here and planning for a puppy for a few months now.

I was finally "awarded" an AKK puppy by one of the breeders I was talking to (Kika's Klee Kai, you can find them on Facebook). I am expecting to have him join us during the week of July 7th.

Here's the little guy:














He's black/white with brown eyes (breeder says they look dark blue now but will change to brown, which I prefer). He was born on 5/13 and the breeder named him Wyman. One of my close friends suggested "Ares" which has grown on me, so the puppy will officially be Ares Wyman Chan. lmao


Oh and question.. would it be bad for the puppy to leave at 7 and a half weeks rather than 8 weeks? Reason being I have July 4th and 5th off from work, and I plan on taking the week after off for the puppy. So if he can get here before the holidays, that would give me an extra 3-4 days to give him my full attention before I go back to work.

I plan on training my puppy to use a litter box since I live on the 6th floor of a building with an elevator that literally takes at least 3 minutes to come up and bring me to the first floor. Dont think my puppy could hold it long enough once he shows signs of needing to go. And honestly.. I dont want to go into that nasty elevator so often (I'm not in the greatest of neighborhoods and the building door doesnt lock, so the elevator tends to smell of pee...)

Hopefully by the time I have to return to work, the puppy can manage to at least go in the litter box most of the time. I dont expect him to make zero mistakes and I accept the fact that this will make his potty training longer over all.

If necessary, I can have my girlfriend come over after she gets off of work at 2pm and care for Ares while I'm still at work until 5.

The puppy will be living in my bedroom in an ex-pen with his crate and a litter box.
Also considering buying one of those large washable "ez-whelping" pads to lay inside the ex-pen. Mainly to catch his accidents so its not so uncomfortable for him if I'm not home to clean up right away.

Anyway! Here are some notes I gathered in the first month I started researching.
Some of it might not make sense, sound funny, or sound weird. Mainly because I was just literally jotting down notes as I read books, etc.

Any corrections, comments and suggestions are welcomed!

Housetraining:
- Create an indoor doggy toilet for the pup to use.
- When he needs to pee, place him in litter box.
- Praise after successfully going in the box.
- If he pees elsewhere, clean with paper towels and place towels into litter box. Spray site of accident.
- Dont yell at pup for accidents. At most, "hastily" say something like "toilet toilet toilet" while carrying to toilet.
- Walk puppy after he does his business indoors, then move on to walking him after he does his business outdoors. Poop and pee = go for a walk

Crate Training
- Train him early on.
- Put him in the crate even when youre home.

Separation Anxiety:
- Dont spoil the puppy with attention ... as tempting as it will be.
- Crate train him, put only one chew toy in his play area, and tie it to inside of crate.
- While home, keep puppy locked in crate, practice leaving the puppy's sight for increasing intervals of time.
- While away, leave crate door open so puppy can access toilet if necessary. And leave him with a stuffed chew toy.

Puppy at Night:
- Wake up every few hours (1 hour for every month of age) to take the puppy to potty.
- Leave a warm water bottle in crate if puppy needs comfort.
- Also try a "momma bear" toy with heartbeat or a ticking clock.
- Or something with my scent on it.
- Ear plugs for rest of family ... ?

Training with Chew Toy:
- Feed puppy using only food stuffed in chew toy.
- Stuff chew toy with amount of food a puppy would need + a treat or two.
- Chewing on toy means not doing anything else.

AKK Specific (From Book):
- Dont give puppy rabies shot at the same time as 3rd round vaccinations.


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## HollowHeaven (Feb 5, 2012)

Huh, I'm a little surprised this breeder, claiming to be knowledgeable, is calling this breed a "Miniature Alaskan Husky"
Especially considering they're not miniature huskies at all and an Alaskan Husky is a mix breed.


For keeping him in the crate even when you're home... eh. The only real reason he should be in the crate while you're home is for when you can't watch him (which helps with potty training) and when you're trying to sleep. Otherwise there's not a real reason to have him in there.


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## Emily1188 (Jun 21, 2011)

HollowHeaven said:


> For keeping him in the crate even when you're home... eh. The only real reason he should be in the crate while you're home is for when you can't watch him (which helps with potty training) and when you're trying to sleep. Otherwise there's not a real reason to have him in there.


Personally, I think crating pups while you're home is a GREAT idea. You don't want the pup to think the crate always means he's going be separated from you. I practice crating pups while I'm home and dropping treats when they're quiet, or putting them in the crate for very short intervals while I do stuff around the house. My Malinois is quiet when I leave her in a crate and I leave the house, but cries if she knows someone is home. It's pretty irritating and we're working on it. She's a rescue, but in pups I get to raise myself, I like to negate those kinds of issues early. IME it's never a bad idea to teach your dog to chill in their crate while you're around. It only makes the crate a more positive place (because they see it doesn't always mean "ALONE!!!") and makes them more livable.


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## Kyllobernese (Feb 5, 2008)

I don't think they meant to keep the puppy locked in the crate all the time, just put him in the crate for short periods of time while you are home to get him used to it and that it does not always mean you are leaving him. I have litter box trained the last few puppies I have raised as it was in the winter time and it worked out great. I use wood pellets in the litter box and they seem to absorb most of the odor and are easy to keep clean. I would not use kitty litter as it is sometimes treated and would worry that they might eat it. They never seem to have any interest in eating the wood pellets. I found it much easier to switch them over to just going outside than when I used newspaper or puppy pads.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

HollowHeaven said:


> Huh, I'm a little surprised this breeder, claiming to be knowledgeable, is calling this breed a "Miniature Alaskan Husky"
> Especially considering they're not miniature huskies at all and an Alaskan Husky is a mix breed.
> 
> 
> For keeping him in the crate even when you're home... eh. The only real reason he should be in the crate while you're home is for when you can't watch him (which helps with potty training) and when you're trying to sleep. Otherwise there's not a real reason to have him in there.


lol I didn't notice that labeling at all, where'd she put that? o_o
I found some good info on the breeder when I did my research though. Has some award winning dogs and plenty of previous happy customers, so I thought she'd be good.
Puppy also comes with first set of shots and microchip. She says she feeds them TotW too. So I didnt see any red flags.



Emily1188 said:


> Personally, I think crating pups while you're home is a GREAT idea. You don't want the pup to think the crate always means he's going be separated from you. I practice crating pups while I'm home and dropping treats when they're quiet, or putting them in the crate for very short intervals while I do stuff around the house. My Malinois is quiet when I leave her in a crate and I leave the house, but cries if she knows someone is home. It's pretty irritating and we're working on it. She's a rescue, but in pups I get to raise myself, I like to negate those kinds of issues early. IME it's never a bad idea to teach your dog to chill in their crate while you're around. It only makes the crate a more positive place (because they see it doesn't always mean "ALONE!!!") and makes them more livable.


Yea, this ^ is exactly what I meant. I wouldn't keep the poor guy locked up for the majority of the time. But I didnt want him to associate crate with any bad ideas (like being alone). Really I'd probably just train him with the crate, leave the crate door open and in the ex-pen with him. Get him to like it more, and hopefully he'll learn to just chill in there on his own cause he likes it.



Kyllobernese said:


> I don't think they meant to keep the puppy locked in the crate all the time, just put him in the crate for short periods of time while you are home to get him used to it and that it does not always mean you are leaving him. I have litter box trained the last few puppies I have raised as it was in the winter time and it worked out great. I use wood pellets in the litter box and they seem to absorb most of the odor and are easy to keep clean. I would not use kitty litter as it is sometimes treated and would worry that they might eat it. They never seem to have any interest in eating the wood pellets. I found it much easier to switch them over to just going outside than when I used newspaper or puppy pads.


Glad to hear someone else here has had success with litter box training. And hm, if it really is easier to switch over to outdoor pottying thats good and unexpected news.
Where'd you get wood pellets btw? I was planning to use litter specifically made for dogs (petco and I think purina makes it).


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## zhaor (Jul 2, 2009)

I'm too busy being jealous right now and so I have no advice to give


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## hueyeats (Apr 2, 2013)

First off a welcome, a congrats and a good job on your research on your notes 
One should not stop learning.... amassing knowledge is a great thing.

I have no knowledge of litter box so leave that to the experts.

Read tons of books on dogs and training... library is your friend.
(Also take the best suited techniques, leave off the unsuitable ones...
Like while I like Sarah Wilson's certain ideas... I don't agree with spray bottles etc.)

An in books you will also observe... you have to be careful of who you choose as trainers.
Eg. "In a Dog's Heart" by Jennifer Arnold... pg 4, line 4...
Poor otter (dog) has problems and fear of people just because a trainer asked the owners to spray hot sauce to correct his jumping and provided shock collar to correct unwanted behaviours.
Thereby causing distrust from dog to owners.

Establishing trust between any relationships is a must.. dogs or humans alike.



Also it is recommended to take some time off or have someone with time to properly assimilate your new one to its environment.
Remember... quality time invested from your puppy's first days is better than having to spending quantity time to correct mistakes from that "start".

Train your dog the very first day home.
A basic like mastering (at least understand the concept) of a sit or down.
Just focus on one... but it let that pup have the understanding that in order for you to join this family, there are rules to be learned.

More than anything...
Love, love & love your dog... show it too!!!

Tip from my breeder....
Owner to ask themselves...
What will you the owner do to gain that dogs' trust... a good practice question... what have I done today, this week to gain that little more trust & understanding of the dog???

Good luck!!!

P.S. avoid dog parks till puppy is much older.... and your training plus dog's health & growth is already stabilized and established. Eg. Like you already know how your pup will react in certain situations and recall is good etc. Because a negative reaction experience.. say from another dog's bite... can negate from your training and your puppy's life experience.


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## hueyeats (Apr 2, 2013)

After you get your pup...
Show many many pictures!!!


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

zhaor said:


> I'm too busy being jealous right now and so I have no advice to give


teehee. 



hueyeats said:


> First off a welcome, a congrats and a good job on your research on your notes


Thanks!



> Read tons of books on dogs and training... library is your friend.
> (Also take the best suited techniques, leave off the unsuitable ones...
> Like while I like Sarah Wilson's certain ideas... I don't agree with spray bottles etc.)
> 
> ...


Ive been mostly reading small articles I find on google, the stickies and random threads here, along with the book on dogstardaily. Do you have any other recommendations?

And oh god.. thats terrible. That trainer needs to get pepper sprayed, lets see how he/she likes it.




> Establishing trust between any relationships is a must.. dogs or humans alike.
> 
> Also it is recommended to take some time off or have someone with time to properly assimilate your new one to its environment.
> Remember... quality time invested from your puppy's first days is better than having to spending quantity time to correct mistakes from that "start".
> ...


I was planning to take a week off of work to acclimate the puppy. I think the breeder wants to send him on a plane on 7/8, so I'd get him that night since its a long flight from cali to NYC. I'd have Tues-Sun to acclimate him. Do you think thats enough?

Also, would it be better to ask for the breeder to ship him 7/3 so I can have an extra 4 days with the puppy? If I do that, he'd be leaving at only 7 weeks and 4 days old.

Will definitely try to train and love him as much as possible. And thats actually a good tip, thanks!



> P.S. avoid dog parks till puppy is much older.... and your training plus dog's health & growth is already stabilized and established. Eg. Like you already know how your pup will react in certain situations and recall is good etc. Because a negative reaction experience.. say from another dog's bite... can negate from your training and your puppy's life experience.


Yea definitely, I dont want him to get hurt. Although there is a dog park for small dogs on the NYU campus that I might take him to. At what age can I try to introduce him to a dog park for small dogs?



hueyeats said:


> After you get your pup...
> Show many many pictures!!!


Hehe, no problem. Got a few grand in camera equipment. I hope the puppy doesnt mind lots of shutter noises.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Quick bump.

So the breeder got back to me, and says she's fine with shipping out my puppy on July 3rd.
That would make him 7 weeks and 2 days. I originally thought 7 weeks was okay, and figured the breeder would tell me no if it was a bad idea.
Thoughts on this?

It would be great to get him on July 3rd, as that would give me an extra four full days with the little guy (for a total of 11 full days) before I have to return to work.

I do trust the breeder as, so far, there have been no red flags. Her dogs come with 15-day infectious disease and 1-year hereditary/congenital health guarantees.
And everything she does is fairly transparent (lots of pictures on Facebook of the pups growing up, playing, socializing with her two kids, etc).


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

My personal choice would be to have the puppy stay with his litter till 8 weeks assuming he's getting the full benefits of both being around his littermates and being socialized with people. You'd still have several days off work after he arrives even then (if I'm reading your schedule correctly)

Others more experienced with breeders should chime in on this one, but a 1 year hereditary health guarantee doesn't mean much at all to my understanding. So many common genetic ailments can't be tested for or diagnosed until the dog is mature at 2 years old. What the terms of the guarantee are would also be important (must return the pup for refund? purchase price refunded but you keep the pup? or some other agreement?)


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Shell said:


> My personal choice would be to have the puppy stay with his litter till 8 weeks assuming he's getting the full benefits of both being around his littermates and being socialized with people. You'd still have several days off work after he arrives even then (if I'm reading your schedule correctly)
> 
> Others more experienced with breeders should chime in on this one, but a 1 year hereditary health guarantee doesn't mean much at all to my understanding. So many common genetic ailments can't be tested for or diagnosed until the dog is mature at 2 years old. What the terms of the guarantee are would also be important (must return the pup for refund? purchase price refunded but you keep the pup? or some other agreement?)


Yea I read a lot about 8 weeks being the ideal week. But then I searched these forums and found opinions ranging from "49 days is the sweet spot" to "it depends on what the breeder or owner does with the 8th week" to "nothing is certain in life" lol. So far I think I'll leave the schedule as is, since I do trust the breeder. Unless someone here seriously thinks its the absolutely worst idea ever.

But yes you are right, I would still have July 8th through July 14th completely free of work, just for my puppy.

I never really looked into what year such conditions may present themselves. Interesting...
nor do I know what kind of guarantees breeders normally give.
However, the policy states that I'd be given either a full refund of purchase price (so I guess that means not including shipping either way) or credit towards a new AKK, with the return of the puppy + statement from a vet.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

PandaSPUR said:


> I never really looked into what year such conditions may present themselves. Interesting...
> nor do I know what kind of guarantees breeders normally give.
> However, the policy states that I'd be given either a full refund of purchase price (so I guess that means not including shipping either way) or credit towards a new AKK, with the return of the puppy + statement from a vet.


Well, I guess conditions _can _present at any time, and I have no idea what issues AKK are prone to-- maybe Crantastic can help you with that, but for example, for Hip or Elbow dysplasia, the OFA doesn't do a final certification until 24 months of age


> A recent study (1) noted the increased accuracy of evaluating ED at 24 months of age as compared to 12 months of age: “The value of increased precision in the diagnosis of elbow arthrosis with increasing age at examination should be balanced against the possibility that with a higher minimum age for evaluation, a lower percentage of dogs would be evaluated.” The decision to set the minimum age for final ED certification at 24 months is consistent with OFA’s hip dysplasia protocol, and provides a good balance of the above considerations.


For congenital heart disease, there's this


> Examinations performed in mature dogs are most likely to be definitive. This is especially true when considering mild congenital heart defects. Innocent heart murmurs are less common in mature animals than in puppies are less likely to be a source of confusion. Furthermore, the murmurs associated with some mild congenital malformations become more obvious after a dog has reached maturity. While it is quite reasonable to perform preliminary evaluations and provide provisional certification to puppies and young dogs between 8 weeks and 1 year of age, final certification, prior to breeding, should be obtained in mature dogs at 12 months of age or older.


(Both quoted from the OFA website)


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Interesting.. btw by OFA you mean this: http://www.offa.org/ ? Had to google it.

One thing to consider though.. by the time the dog is 2 years, I doubt I'd want to give him up for a refund. Not sure how the breeder would react if I suddenly asked for a change in her guarantee to cover medical bills rather than just return the dog.

And yea I'm gonna PM Crantastic and see if he can provide any advice at all in this thread.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

PandaSPUR said:


> Interesting.. btw by OFA you mean this: http://www.offa.org/ ? Had to google it.
> 
> One thing to consider though.. by the time the dog is 2 years, I doubt I'd want to give him up for a refund. Not sure how the breeder would react if I suddenly asked for a change in her guarantee to cover medical bills rather than just return the dog.
> 
> And yea I'm gonna PM Crantastic and see if he can provide any advice at all in this thread.


Yes, that is the OFA website. 

I wouldn't want to give up an 11 month old dog in exchange for a refund anymore than a 24 month old dog....


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

True, it would still be a terrible feeling... especially since the puppy will basically be my baby from week 7 on.

I guess I'll just have to hope that the puppy wont have major issues down the road. Which he really shouldn't since, again, I do trust the breeder. But sheesh, all this talk has me sad an paranoid :|

On similar note. Can I wait until his second round of shots before I take him to the vet? The breeder will be giving him his first set.
Or is it actually necessary to take him to the vet asap? (makes me think of buying used cars.. and bringing it to the mechanic lol)


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

The "miniature Alaskan huskies" thing isn't a red flag to me, really. That is the breed (well, type) that was used (along with one or two Sibes and some schipperke and American Eskimo) to originally create the breed, and I find that AKK owners and breeders tend to use the "mini husky" label because that's what many people search for when they only vaguely know about AKK. The breeder has accurate information about the history of the breed on her site, and all of her dogs are pure AKK, no outcrossing going on. She has shown her dogs (several of them have their CH or GRCH) and she has some dogs from good breeders. Here are OFA results for her dogs. 

The health guarantee does concern me, though... one-year guarantees are basically useless. A lot of issues don't develop until a dog is two or older. Another thing that concerns me is that this breeder is suspended from the UKC at the moment. You may want to ask her to explain; I don't know the details (although I believe she may not be entirely at fault, and being suspended doesn't necessarily make her a bad breeder) and I don't want to gossip about breeders anyway. But be advised that her pups can't be registered with the UKC right now and she can't show them. I believe she is registering dogs with the ARBA now.

The thing about a rarer breed is that it can be impossible to get everything you want in a breeder. I know of just a couple AKK breeders who hit almost every point on my "ideal breeder" checklist, and they don't have many litters (and many of their pups go to other breeders). Sometimes you have to compromise, and as long as you're not supporting someone who's doing it all wrong (and believe me, there are a few AKK breeders out there that are not good and that I would never support), that can be okay. Just make sure you ask a lot of questions and that you're satisfied with the answers.

As for health, one thing to ask about is Factor VII. Good breeders test to make sure they are not producing puppies with this deficiency, and any good breeder will tell you your pup's status. A clear or carrier pup will not have any issues (only affected ones can). Luckily, it's easy enough to avoid producing affected pups, so it's not something most buyers have to worry about. Also ask about knees; I've heard of quite a few AKK with issues.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Crantastic said:


> The "miniature Alaskan huskies" thing isn't a red flag to me, really. That is the breed (well, type) that was used (along with one or two Sibes and some schipperke and American Eskimo) to originally create the breed, and I find that AKK owners and breeders tend to use the "mini husky" label because that's what many people search for when they only vaguely know about AKK. The breeder has accurate information about the history of the breed on her site, and all of her dogs are pure AKK, no outcrossing going on. She has shown her dogs (several of them have their CH or GRCH) and she has some dogs from good breeders. Here are OFA results for her dogs.
> 
> The health guarantee does concern me, though... one-year guarantees are basically useless. A lot of issues don't develop until a dog is two or older. Another thing that concerns me is that this breeder is suspended from the UKC at the moment. You may want to ask her to explain; I don't know the details (although I believe she may not be entirely at fault, and being suspended doesn't necessarily make her a bad breeder) and I don't want to gossip about breeders anyway. But be advised that her pups can't be registered with the UKC right now and she can't show them. I believe she is registering dogs with the ARBA now.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear the breeder doesn't throw red flags for you either. But yea you are right, she is registering her dogs with the ARBA and not UKC. I may ask how come I cant register with UKC, rather than outright saying "oh I heard you were suspended... whats up with that?" haha. Hopefully she wont be offended.
And yea, I'll be honest, I'm just so excited that I finally get to have my AKK puppy (of my actual first choice preference! ) that I may not have searched for breeders as hard as I could have. Also hard to do research on them all since the breed is so rare :\

And yes, Factor VII was one of the first things I asked about, as per your advice via our past PMs. Her response was this "We do not have any affected dogs with FVII, we do have some carriers but they are only bred to clear dogs so we do not have to test our puppies because they can not be affected."
Did not know about the knee thing though. So I might ask about that as well.

One more thing, how should I go about asking about the health guarantees? 
What kind of guarantee did you get?

At this point I've already signed the contract and gave her the money >.> yea I got a bit excited.
Was that a bad idea? :| She wanted funds within 7 days and I was just so happy.

EDIT: lol.. UKC misspelled her last name in their suspension list. Possibly why I never found anything bad about her from google searches.


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

PandaSPUR said:


> One more thing, how should I go about asking about the health guarantees?
> What kind of guarantee did you get?


Casper was guaranteed free of "life-threatening" genetic issues for three years. I could also have given him back for a full refund at any point within the first year, for any reason (after that, the breeder would always take him back, but I wouldn't get the entire price back). Could have been better, but I find a lot of breeder contracts to be kind of crappy... many seem to require that you return the pup to get any money back, which most people don't want to do. Many don't cover "minor" things like luxating patellas, only major issues. I just like to see a two+ year guarantee because it shows me that the breeder has confidence in their dogs' health.

My papillon's guarantee was better... guaranteed free of hereditary defects for three years (and "after the three-year period, the guarantee is prorated depending on the age of the dog and the severity of the hereditary problem").


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Crantastic said:


> Casper was guaranteed free of "life-threatening" genetic issues for three years. I could also have given him back for a full refund at any point within the first year, for any reason (after that, the breeder would always take him back, but I wouldn't get the entire price back). Could have been better, but I find a lot of breeder contracts to be kind of crappy... many seem to require that you return the pup to get any money back, which most people don't want to do. Many don't cover "minor" things like luxating patellas, only major issues. I just like to see a two+ year guarantee because it shows me that the breeder has confidence in their dogs' health.
> 
> My papillon's guarantee was better... guaranteed free of hereditary defects for three years (and "after the three-year period, the guarantee is prorated depending on the age of the dog and the severity of the hereditary problem").


:\ Damn, I always thought 1 year was good..

What do you think I should do now?


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

You could ask if you could renegotiate to two years at least, but you've already paid, so you might just have to deal with it. If the contract stipulates that you have to return the pup for a refund, and you don't want to do that, then the number of years doesn't really matter.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Crantastic said:


> You could ask if you could renegotiate to two years at least, but you've already paid, so you might just have to deal with it. If the contract stipulates that you have to return the pup for a refund, and you don't want to do that, then the number of years doesn't really matter.


Yea true, I likely wouldn't want to give up my baby after a year, or even after a few months.

I'll just inquire about the knees, mention that a friend has cautioned me about short term health guarantees, and ask why I cant register with UKC. Hopefully her reasons/explanation will help me feel a bit better.

Thanks for your help Crantastic.


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

PandaSPUR said:


> So the breeder got back to me, and says she's fine with shipping out my puppy on July 3rd.
> That would make him 7 weeks and 2 days. I originally thought 7 weeks was okay, and figured the breeder would tell me no if it was a bad idea.
> Thoughts on this?


I asked another AKK person, and they said that they believe puppies have to be 8 weeks old to be shipped. I'm not sure of the exact rules, so you should look into that!

I don't like the idea of taking a little pup that early, or of shipping at that age. I got Cas when he was nine weeks old (he had to fly from Northern Ontario to PEI, Canada... many hours of travel) and that was a bit better.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Crantastic said:


> I asked another AKK person, and they said that they believe puppies have to be 8 weeks old to be shipped. I'm not sure of the exact rules, so you should look into that!
> 
> I don't like the idea of taking a little pup that early, or of shipping at that age. I got Cas when he was nine weeks old (he had to fly from Northern Ontario to PEI, Canada... many hours of travel) and that was a bit better.


Hm.. in terms of actual laws, I found this: http://www.animallaw.info/statutes/stuscacalpencode597z.htm
Which states you cant sell a puppy in California before 8 weeks.
However, this: http://www.animallaw.info/articles/ovuspuppysalelaws.htm
Makes it seem like the law applies to sales within the same state. Meaning a sale from Cali to NY is not under the jurisdiction of the Cali law. Not sure if this is right or not.
Its either right, the breeder is unaware of such a law, or such laws are really only used as an "excuse" to go after a suspected puppy mill, etc.

As for if its actually good/bad for the puppy. I've been trying to research that all day and have no definitive answer for a 7 week old puppy. Almost everyone agrees 6 weeks is too early and anything past 10-12 is a bad idea as well.
The breeder's original plan was to ship on July 8th, when the puppy would be exactly 8 weeks.

Oh and on another topic, Ares (my name for him, breeder calls him Wyman) is currently eating TotW Wetlands. I want to transition him over to Acana Wild Prairie. Originally thought of Orijen but heard about that being too much for some dogs.
Any opinions on this? It seems like Acana doesnt sell its puppy specific foods anymore either.. only their regionals.


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

Yeah, I didn't mean sales laws so much as the actual airline guidelines... check those! 

Acana is what Casper eats; it's a good food. Don't switch cold turkey, though. Get some of the TotW and slowly transition. TotW is a good food, too (that's what my papillon eats -- she switches between the formulas with 25% protein).


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Crantastic said:


> Yeah, I didn't mean sales laws so much as the actual airline guidelines... check those!
> 
> Acana is what Casper eats; it's a good food. Don't switch cold turkey, though. Get some of the TotW and slowly transition. TotW is a good food, too (that's what my papillon eats -- she switches between the formulas with 25% protein).


Oh ic. Cant really do that since I'm not sure what airline she'll be using. She's been doing this for a while though, so hopefully she'll take care of that without incident.

And yea, the breeder gave me a nice little 2-3page guide. First thing on the guide was what to do if I'm switching. She recommends going in thirds. 1/3 new, 2/3 old, then half half, then 2/3 new 1/3 old.

I'll buy a 5lb bag of each to start with. Re-acclimating to a new environment will be stressful enough, I'll get towards the end of that new TotW 5lb bag before I start mixing with Acana. I haven't done calculations about serving sizes yet though lol, so I dont know how long a 5lb bag will last me before I need to start mixing with Acana. Will do some calculations later and decide if I should just stick with a bigger bag of TotW to start with.

Heres another food related question. For my puppy's breakfast/lunch combined, I was thinking I'd give him a kong stuffed with the proper amount of kibble and some peanut butter to hold it all together. Is this an okay plan? Or should I just mix kibble with water then freeze the kong?

I'm hoping mainly for this to keep him entertained at least enough to not notice me leaving, so its not such a big deal when I leave in the mornings.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Quick bump, didnt want to just edit my previous post as this is a different subtopic.

So the breeder responded to me.
She said that Patella Luxation is common in small dogs in general, so it can happen to AKKs. She says that her health testing is done to ensure the best possible chances of healthy puppies and that the issue would usually present itself within the 1 year guarantee.

According to her, the 1-year health guarantee she provides is "based on the recommendation and guidelines for the state of CA"
Fair enough. She is running a business after all.

As for the UKC, she apparently had a falling out with them when she reported another breeder for falsified papers, the UKC didnt listen, and now she only supports the ARBA. Its a good reason if true, and I have no reason to be suspicious.

I do think I offended her though ): She said she'd be happy to cancel my contract if I've changed my mind.


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## juliemule (Dec 10, 2011)

Most airlines require dogs to be 8 weeks or older if shipped as cargo. Also, the temperature must not be above 85 degrees at any tarmac the plane stops at. I use American Airlines now, have used Delta as well. 

As far a s genetic health issues, i have a lifetime gaurantee, if proven genetic. Personally, I would not agree to covering medical costs, not in a contract at least, as what the buyer thinks is fair treatment may not be what I agree with.Too much gray area there.

Good luck and congratulations on your puppy!


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## juliemule (Dec 10, 2011)

I'll add I wont personally ship a puppy less than 12 weeks by air. I dont like the stress it puts on the puppies.


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

PandaSPUR said:


> Quick bump, didnt want to just edit my previous post as this is a different subtopic.
> 
> So the breeder responded to me.
> She said that Patella Luxation is common in small dogs in general, so it can happen to AKKs. She says that her health testing is done to ensure the best possible chances of healthy puppies and that the issue would usually present itself within the 1 year guarantee.
> ...


I hope you assured her that you're just being thorough! And yeah, I'd heard that the suspension wasn't her fault. It's good to know that she's being up-front about it. The breed is recognized by the ARBA, so that's fine, and I'm assuming you won't be showing your pup anyway.

A Kong with peanut butter is okay sometimes, but keep in mind that PB has a lot of calories, and you don't want to make your pup fat! It would be better if most of the pup's calories came from real dog food. It might be a better idea to get some canned food (there's a lot of good stuff out there), mix it and some kibble, and freeze that into the Kong. You can also soak kibble in a little water so it gets mushy and freezes better. PB is of course fine as a treat, and other stuff like cottage cheese, plain nonfat yogurt (without artificial sweeteners! Some of those are toxic to dogs), baby food (make sure there's no onion powder in it), unsweetened applesauce, and mashed ripe banana make good Kong stuffers. I usually mix kibble with one of these ingredients, with just enough of the other ingredient to coat it. My dogs like the variety.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Crantastic said:


> I hope you assured her that you're just being thorough! And yeah, I'd heard that the suspension wasn't her fault. It's good to know that she's being up-front about it. The breed is recognized by the ARBA, so that's fine, and I'm assuming you won't be showing your pup anyway.
> 
> A Kong with peanut butter is okay sometimes, but keep in mind that PB has a lot of calories, and you don't want to make your pup fat! It would be better if most of the pup's calories came from real dog food. It might be a better idea to get some canned food (there's a lot of good stuff out there), mix it and some kibble, and freeze that into the Kong. You can also soak kibble in a little water so it gets mushy and freezes better. PB is of course fine as a treat, and other stuff like cottage cheese, plain nonfat yogurt (without artificial sweeteners! Some of those are toxic to dogs), baby food (make sure there's no onion powder in it), unsweetened applesauce, and mashed ripe banana make good Kong stuffers. I usually mix kibble with one of these ingredients, with just enough of the other ingredient to coat it. My dogs like the variety.


Yea I basically profusely apologized in a reply email, stating that I was only trying to ease my mind and had no intention of offending or suggesting she does anything wrong. She replied that she perfectly understands and appreciates that I have questions about the contract. And her offer of canceling the contract was just to make sure I dont feel trapped. Which is nice.
I dont think I'll ever get used to talking to breeders though lol

And yea, that was my concern with the peanut butter, excess calories and possibly too much protein?
May try the canned food idea, since TotW comes in cans as well, so I could mix that with Acana, and the taste should be familiar for the puppy?
I also actually just backed a greek yogurt maker thing on Kickstarter a few weeks back. With that I can be sure I'm making good yogurt without artificial anything. But again, would that be too much protein for the little guy? o_o

Thanks for answering my endless questions lol


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

It'll be fine... you only need to mix a little of the tasty "extra" in with the dog food... enough to coat it and make it interesting for him when it's frozen into a Kong.


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## seaboxador (Sep 23, 2012)

Yes, get him early and spend the first few days off with him. That will work out much better. In terms of your other notes:

Why are you feeding him via a stuffed toy and not just a bowl
You don't have to crate train
No clue on the litter box. I just took mine out. Perhaps the litter box can get you through the first 6 weeks where potty issues prevail
You're withholding affection from the creature why?

Good plan on the going out for short periods and making them longer.

The three other things I'd say are
Have your place clean and get all of your errands done. The first month is a pain
Find a vet that you like and have an appointment setup.
Find a good obedience school locally to help him be socialized and figure out where he has to be with shots before going


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Crantastic said:


> It'll be fine... you only need to mix a little of the tasty "extra" in with the dog food... enough to coat it and make it interesting for him when it's frozen into a Kong.


Hehe sounds good, thanks again!



seaboxador said:


> Yes, get him early and spend the first few days off with him. That will work out much better. In terms of your other notes:
> 
> Why are you feeding him via a stuffed toy and not just a bowl
> You don't have to crate train
> ...


1. I want to make the toy as interesting as possible without over feeding the puppy. Thus I plan to put his entire breakfast and/or lunch (depending on when we both wake up, eat, walk etc in the mornings) in the toy. So I can give him that toy when I leave for work. Hopefully keeps him occupied enough so that he doesnt feel the shock of me leaving and develop separation anxiety.

I also read somewhere (I believe it was on dogstardaily.com) that a dog naturally works for their food, so feeding them using some kind of toy would make the whole process more fun and mentally stimulating. Which also means the puppy wont get bored and destructive.

2. I dont have to crate train? o_o what do you mean.

3. Yea the litter box is mainly because I highly doubt I can get the puppy outside quickly enough, often enough, when living in my apartment.

4. Not withholding affection completely. But I dont want to spoil him 24/7, let him sleep in my lap constantly and more while I'm on vacation from work. Then when I go back to work, he gets only half as much attention as he may be used to. Wouldn't that surely lead to separation anxiety?

In terms of this, I was really just thinking of keeping him in an ex-pen nearby, letting him entertain himself, while I'm nearby watching. Or give him some freedom to explore, but follow him. And I'd do this for only a fraction of the day.

I imagine something like: puppy wakes up, I take puppy to litter box, puppy probably drinks more, I play with him for 15-20 minutes, I take him back to litter box, then I let him play on his own for a bit, he gets bored, I divert his attention to something else (i.e. instead of playing with a toy, I let him roam, or I give him a different toy), and then eventually he goes nap for a bit, or I play with him/train him again until he's tired. And repeat.

Of course it wont go exactly as I'm thinking, but thats my general idea.


For your other three points.
1. Yep, I have at least his area in my room (for the ex-pen, crate and litterbox) all clean. Just need to get the ex-pen, litter box, along with the rest of the stuff from my shopping list.

2. I do think I've found a vet that I like. Kinda pricey but everything around NYC is pricey, even in the outer boroughs. Anyway, should I take him to the vet asap, or can I wait until he's due for his shots?

3. Will have to work on that, and figure out a good schedule. But definitely do want to do this.

Thanks!!


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

Casper and Crystal's breeders both required that I take the dog to the vet for a checkup within three days of purchase. If the dogs had any parasites or whatever during that time, the breeder would pay for treatment because they would have gotten the parasites at the breeder's. After that, a breeder can argue (probably rightly) that the dog developed issues while with you. You should always do a vet check right away.

I think your plan sounds good. Separation anxiety is common with AKK, so getting the pup used to not being around you 24/7 will be a good thing. I always think it's a good idea to get pups used to crates, too -- it helps with housebreaking and with keeping them safe, and it ensures that it won't be a huge shock if they ever have to be boarded or transported. Lots of people who crate-train pups eventually stop using the crate once the dog is trustworthy.


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## packetsmom (Mar 21, 2013)

I think your plans sound really well-thought out and the pup is absolutely ADORABLE!  The only part I'd be concerned with is the pup flying so young as well as missing out on that extra week with the litter, but beyond that, everything you've planned really sounds great.

Pictures...lots and lots of pictures of that little fella.

Slightly OT - But I find it odd that you really can't find AKK breeders up here in Alaska, unless they are all hiding really well. :/


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

I see, and that makes sense I guess. I just realized I need vet papers for registration with the city anyway, so I might as well just go asap. I dislike the massive fee just to walk in though.. ):

I was planning to use the crate with door always unlocked anyway, since the crate would be in the ex-pen. Unless of course I need to move the crate closer to my bed at night to comfort the puppy. Either way, I really do hope my puppy likes the crate and will do my best to make it a nice safe place.

EDIT: packetsmom, thanks! Glad to hear that I've done my research correctly. And yes, he is adorable 
I do feel a little guilty about taking him away a few days early, but I'll make it up to him! lol

And I live in New York City  not Alaska
Or do you mean you've been looking for a local breeder for yourself? lol


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## packetsmom (Mar 21, 2013)

PandaSPUR said:


> And I live in New York City  not Alaska
> Or do you mean you've been looking for a local breeder for yourself? lol


When I first heard about the breed, I was curious about them and tried to look up local breeders, just to see one in person, but I couldn't find any breeders up here, which I found odd since most sources say the breed was originally developed in Wasilla, AK, which is not that far from Anchorage. I wasn't planning on getting one, since I don't think I'd be a good fit for one, but I did think they looked like really neat little dogs and would have liked to have learned a little more about them.  I sometimes "stalk" dog breeds I'd never keep myself and admire them from afar and Casper's pictures are always so gorgeous!


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## SydTheSpaniel (Feb 12, 2011)

Can I just express my jealousy and excitement to see pictures?!

I'd never heard of the AKK until I saw Crantastic's Casper. I'm in total love with them. Never met one in person though.


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

I hadn't even met one (besides Casper) until this past fall! I had intended to fly out to Cas's breeder's place and pick him up, but when the breeder found out that it was going to be a $700-$800 trip (she's in a remote location), she told me to save the money, and she shipped him instead. I knew a couple of people who had been to her place and could vouch for her, so I was fine with that. I've been to a few AKK meetups since I've moved to Toronto and have met... 11 besides Cas now, I think, of all the sizes and colors! They're all fairly similar in temperament. Only one that I've met is really friendly with strangers. Lots of socialization is key.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

packetsmom said:


> When I first heard about the breed, I was curious about them and tried to look up local breeders, just to see one in person, but I couldn't find any breeders up here, which I found odd since most sources say the breed was originally developed in Wasilla, AK, which is not that far from Anchorage. I wasn't planning on getting one, since I don't think I'd be a good fit for one, but I did think they looked like really neat little dogs and would have liked to have learned a little more about them.  I sometimes "stalk" dog breeds I'd never keep myself and admire them from afar and Casper's pictures are always so gorgeous!


Haha I see. And I forget the original story, but I believe eventually someone in the lower 48 took over the initial development of the breed. Shame on me for not remembering, but its in the AKK book I bought lol.



SydTheSpaniel said:


> Can I just express my jealousy and excitement to see pictures?!
> 
> I'd never heard of the AKK until I saw Crantastic's Casper. I'm in total love with them. Never met one in person though.


Yea I actually havent met one in person yet either. >.<
And no worries, I'll have plenty of pictures up soon, bwahaha 



Crantastic said:


> I hadn't even met one (besides Casper) until this past fall! I had intended to fly out to Cas's breeder's place and pick him up, but when the breeder found out that it was going to be a $700-$800 trip (she's in a remote location), she told me to save the money, and she shipped him instead. I knew a couple of people who had been to her place and could vouch for her, so I was fine with that. I've been to a few AKK meetups since I've moved to Toronto and have met... 11 besides Cas now, I think, of all the sizes and colors! They're all fairly similar in temperament. Only one that I've met is really friendly with strangers. Lots of socialization is key.


Yea I wish I had met one in person first but they're so rare and yep... just flying to see the puppy would cost quite a bit of money so that wasnt a choice ):

I did see a guy in my neighborhood walking what looked like two AKKs, but.. I was passing by him while in a bus lol

Socialization will be tough, but I'll do my best.
I definitely dont have a shortage of people who want to meet him cause he's adorable. 
Everyone at my office wants to see him, too bad I cant bring pets to work lol


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## Cailin (May 2, 2012)

I just strolled over here to say congratulations! AKKs seem like wonderful dogs! 

I have never seen one, but, what a beauty! I hope everything goes alright and that all your hard work learning about the breed and about dog owning pays off!


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Cailin said:


> I just strolled over here to say congratulations! AKKs seem like wonderful dogs!
> 
> I have never seen one, but, what a beauty! I hope everything goes alright and that all your hard work learning about the breed and about dog owning pays off!


Thanks! ^-^

All of these posts have given me more confidence, although I still expect to be surprised (not in the good ways) and frustrated with Ares lol.

I'll be keeping a pet journal with plenty of pictures, either here or on his own tumblr. I'll keep you guys updated


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## SydTheSpaniel (Feb 12, 2011)

PandaSPUR said:


> Thanks! ^-^
> 
> All of these posts have given me more confidence, although I still expect to be surprised (not in the good ways) and frustrated with Ares lol.
> 
> I'll be keeping a pet journal with plenty of pictures, either here or on his own tumblr. I'll keep you guys updated


Is Ares the name of the new puppy? If so, do you pronounce it the same of Aries? Because... that's the name my husband and I had picked out for our baby we were expecting before I miscarried. It's still going to be a name on our list though. That's so cool!


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

aw ): sorry, that must've been hard to go through.

but yep, thats the name of my dog. Breeder named him Wyman (judging by the name of his siblings, the breeder seems to just go alphabetically down some list).
My friend suggested "Ares" and that grew on me, even though the original plan was to name him based on personality lol.
And yea, its pronounced Aries, we chose the greek god of war spelling Ares though XD.

Ares Wyman Chan (Chan is my last name) hehe.


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## SydTheSpaniel (Feb 12, 2011)

PandaSPUR said:


> aw ): sorry, that must've been hard to go through.
> 
> but yep, thats the name of my dog. Breeder named him Wyman (judging by the name of his siblings, the breeder seems to just go alphabetically down some list).
> My friend suggested "Ares" and that grew on me, even though the original plan was to name him based on personality lol.
> ...


Haha, my husband chose the spelling for the same reason, although I'd prefer Aries, I like the sound of it and it just stuck as a baby name. Either way, awesome name!


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Agreed, awesome name, haha.

Oh and I have a few more questions now. Not sure if I should start a new thread so I'll ask em here for now.

Fleas and ticks:
How do I know if my area has fleas and ticks? I live in New York City (Manhattan). Googling has not helped so far..
If I should treat for fleas and ticks, can I do so right away? The breeder says her area doesnt have a flea/tick problem so she does not treat her puppies.
I really dont want to end up with fleas in my house lol.

Treats:
What kind of treats should I be feeding? I know I can use his kibble as training treats, but what about for when I need higher value stuff?
I found some good looking treats made by Wellness and frozen liver by Pro-Treats. But I'm worried about over feeding. Especially with the frozen liver which comes in cubes, and has a recommended 1-2 cubes per day serving size for puppies.


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## SydTheSpaniel (Feb 12, 2011)

PandaSPUR said:


> Agreed, awesome name, haha.
> 
> Oh and I have a few more questions now. Not sure if I should start a new thread so I'll ask em here for now.
> 
> ...


I use Zuke's mini naturals training treats. They're very small, not very fattening and very appealing - at least to my dog! They have several flavors too and aren't too expensive. I got a pretty big bag for 12 dollars.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

You can ask your vet about fleas and ticks, but a quick google search indicates that both are present in NYC. 

One source on NYC ticks


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

SydTheSpaniel said:


> I use Zuke's mini naturals training treats. They're very small, not very fattening and very appealing - at least to my dog! They have several flavors too and aren't too expensive. I got a pretty big bag for 12 dollars.


Ooh just looked that up, 3.5 calories per treat sounds pretty good, I'll give it a try. Thanks!



Shell said:


> You can ask your vet about fleas and ticks, but a quick google search indicates that both are present in NYC.
> 
> One source on NYC ticks


Ah... Okay my bad, should've searched "nyc ticks" instead of "nyc fleas"
The latter just gave me pages of results on flea markets.. lol
So do I need to ask my vet before getting and applying flea/tick treatments like frontline?

I ask mainly because it may be a day or two before I take puppy to the vet. And I really really do not want any kind of infestation...


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

PandaSPUR said:


> Ah... Okay my bad, should've searched "nyc ticks" instead of "nyc fleas"
> The latter just gave me pages of results on flea markets.. lol
> So do I need to ask my vet before getting and applying flea/tick treatments like frontline?
> 
> I ask mainly because it may be a day or two before I take puppy to the vet. And I really really do not want any kind of infestation...


Asking your vet for suggestions is good and I don't know if there are any meds that are bad for the AKK (like there are for Aussies etc) but flea/tick meds are over the counter. I use K9 Advantix, some people use Frontline Plus. Neither covers heartworm, both are flea/tick only. Revolution is a topical HW and flea and I think some kinds of ticks but not all, I used it for about a year but switched to get better tick protection.


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## Damon'sMom (Aug 2, 2011)

Congratulations on the puppy. I cannot wait to see photos. As for treats. I too use Zuke's mini naturals. I cut them in half however which makes them last longer and even less calories.


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## GrinningDog (Mar 26, 2010)

Having seen a TON of Alaskan Klee Kais last weekend, I feel especially inclined to say, "Yaaay! Congratulations on the soon-to-arrive pup!" The one's we met were gorgeous and clearly adored their owners. We got to pet one, and she was a sweetie.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Shell said:


> Asking your vet for suggestions is good and I don't know if there are any meds that are bad for the AKK (like there are for Aussies etc) but flea/tick meds are over the counter. I use K9 Advantix, some people use Frontline Plus. Neither covers heartworm, both are flea/tick only. Revolution is a topical HW and flea and I think some kinds of ticks but not all, I used it for about a year but switched to get better tick protection.


I might just go get some K9 Advantix right now then. Wag.com has 10% off and I can use my 20% off first order, makes it pretty cheap.



Damon'sMom said:


> Congratulations on the puppy. I cannot wait to see photos. As for treats. I too use Zuke's mini naturals. I cut them in half however which makes them last longer and even less calories.


Thanks! I was thinking of cutting treats like frozen liver in half, but I don't know if I have the patience to sit and cut so many of these little treats in half too XD



Kirsten&Gypsy said:


> Having seen a TON of Alaskan Klee Kais last weekend, I feel especially inclined to say, "Yaaay! Congratulations on the soon-to-arrive pup!" The one's we met were gorgeous and clearly adored their owners. We got to pet one, and she was a sweetie.


Ooh, lucky! Did you go to a dog show or something?
And thank you! Hopefully my guy is sweet and sociable too (thats also up to me though, I know )


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## DJEtzel (Dec 28, 2009)

I'm coming in late.. But oh well. The contract definitely bothers me and I wouldn't support a breeder with that sort of guarantee personally, but since you already paid and don't plan to disregard this puppy I guess there's nothing to be done there. 

As for shipping/pick up age... If you don't have dogs at home and don't have a rigorous schedule for dog socialization from day one, I STRONGLY suggest waiting until the pup is at LEAST 8 or 9 weeks. Likewise, having over a week with you on one schedule and then you leaving and the schedule suddenly changing is going to cause more problems then it will help, most likely. 

As for flea/tick... I detest unnatural chemical preventatives like k9 advantix, frontline, etc. and most people that I meet who use them still have a huge problem with fleas/ticks. I use bug off garlic and haven't seen a flea/tick on my dogs in years. 

For treats I frequently use pet select nuggets from Meijer, cut in half, for puppies with small attention spans.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

DJEtzel said:


> I'm coming in late.. But oh well. The contract definitely bothers me and I wouldn't support a breeder with that sort of guarantee personally, but since you already paid and don't plan to disregard this puppy I guess there's nothing to be done there.


I was thinking about this, and I think someone might have mentioned it. But could the less-than-ideal guarantee be due to the fact that this breed is still relatively young and rare? Even with the most care and testing, I dont think a breeder could have the same confidence with this breed as they could with other long established breeds.

Just a theory. And yes admittedly I'm trying to make myself feel better >.< lol



> As for shipping/pick up age... If you don't have dogs at home and don't have a rigorous schedule for dog socialization from day one, I STRONGLY suggest waiting until the pup is at LEAST 8 or 9 weeks. Likewise, having over a week with you on one schedule and then you leaving and the schedule suddenly changing is going to cause more problems then it will help, most likely.


I really didn't think an extra 4 days with his litter would make such a massive difference? :| Again, I searched these forums and didnt find much definitive information pointing in either direction for 7 week old puppies.

I will try to socialize with other dogs as much as I can though. I have three friends who have dogs and are already excited to meet my puppy. So I could set up play dates with them. And I'm considering registering for puppy classes as well. Theyre about $350 for 6 weeks (one, 1hr session per week) in my area.

I'm gonna do some more research about parvo and infectious diseases before I go socialize my dog with other dogs though. Any advice here is very welcomed!

And as for the change in schedule, my plan is to acclimate him slowly towards the last few days of my week home. Gonna try my best to not just stick to him and spoil with attention, as tempting as that'll be lol.



> As for flea/tick... I detest unnatural chemical preventatives like k9 advantix, frontline, etc. and most people that I meet who use them still have a huge problem with fleas/ticks. I use bug off garlic and haven't seen a flea/tick on my dogs in years.
> 
> For treats I frequently use pet select nuggets from Meijer, cut in half, for puppies with small attention spans.


Bug off garlic? Is that a specific brand or something home made o_o
Guess I'll research this as well. But right now im imagining my puppy making the whole house smell of garlic.. lmao

And thanks for the tip on the treats, I'll check those out as well.

EDIT: Looked up the bug-off garlic stuff, and the chewables look good. Surprisingly affordable too, especially compared to the chemical alternatives.
So at this point, I'll probably order a bottle and then wait until after talking with my vet to actually feed it to Ares.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

Bump, got a new question!

So I got a bunch of stuff in today for Ares, including his Small sized Kong.

What the heck, I didnt realize it was so small lol. I tested with some water and it only holds like 1/8th of a cup...
Then I realized the feeding guide specifies serving PER DAY.

So according to TotW charts (which line up pretty well with Acana charts) I needa feed my puppy 1/2cup a day.
I guess that means I can just stuff the Kong, maybe introduce a second chew toy as well.
But wow, its tiny.. would this even occupy Ares for anywhere near an hour?


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## DJEtzel (Dec 28, 2009)

PandaSPUR said:


> I was thinking about this, and I think someone might have mentioned it. But could the less-than-ideal guarantee be due to the fact that this breed is still relatively young and rare? Even with the most care and testing, I dont think a breeder could have the same confidence with this breed as they could with other long established breeds.
> 
> Just a theory. And yes admittedly I'm trying to make myself feel better >.< lol


I think any breeder who is breeding should have 100% confidence in their breeding and stand behind the puppies and owners 100%, personally. I'm not saying this a terrible breeder, and what's done is done. I just don't think this is the most reputable stance. 



> I really didn't think an extra 4 days with his litter would make such a massive difference? :| Again, I searched these forums and didnt find much definitive information pointing in either direction for 7 week old puppies.
> 
> I will try to socialize with other dogs as much as I can though. I have three friends who have dogs and are already excited to meet my puppy. So I could set up play dates with them. And I'm considering registering for puppy classes as well. Theyre about $350 for 6 weeks (one, 1hr session per week) in my area.
> 
> I'm gonna do some more research about parvo and infectious diseases before I go socialize my dog with other dogs though. Any advice here is very welcomed!


A few extra days with a litter can make a huge difference when there isn't follow up at home. Puppies need constant interaction with other dogs to learn how they are supposed to behave as they're developing. If you can't pull off 3-4 play dates a week for a few hours, I would absolutely not consider it. Especially with a very soft breed as this, already, prone to fear and reactivity, from what I've heard. A puppy class is an absolute must for the socialization of your puppy, again, of such a breed. 

Personally, I do not adopt out puppies to homes without another dog at 8-9 weeks old unless they are going to puppy classes asap, and don't adopt out puppies in general without the owners taking them to a puppy class. 

As for parvo, your puppy can't be on the ground anywhere in public where dogs you don't know have been until he's recieved all of his vaccinations. Safe dogs that you know are A OK and he should be exposed to all of these areas from the safety of your arms until his vaccinations are complete. Puppy classes are fine to start during the vaccines as long as they are held in a facility that requires vaccines. 



> And as for the change in schedule, my plan is to acclimate him slowly towards the last few days of my week home. Gonna try my best to not just stick to him and spoil with attention, as tempting as that'll be lol.


This sounds great!



> EDIT: Looked up the bug-off garlic stuff, and the chewables look good. Surprisingly affordable too, especially compared to the chemical alternatives.
> So at this point, I'll probably order a bottle and then wait until after talking with my vet to actually feed it to Ares.


Don't be surprised if your vet tries to push whatever they're selling. IMO, vets are not the end all be all when it comes to what to feed or use on your dog. Most vets are vehemently against raw diets, as well, and mine doesn't consider my dogs on a flea/tick regiment with the Bug Off Garlic, but I haven't seen a flea or tick on my dogs in years, so... 



PandaSPUR said:


> So according to TotW charts (which line up pretty well with Acana charts) I needa feed my puppy 1/2cup a day.
> I guess that means I can just stuff the Kong, maybe introduce a second chew toy as well.
> But wow, its tiny.. would this even occupy Ares for anywhere near an hour?


I personally think small kongs are pointless and rarely use them. I like mediums, you don't have to fill them full if the pup is small, but they're big enough for the pup to realize and show interest in. I've never had a puppy go for a small kong, and I think they're safety hazards.


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

Keep in mind that an AKK pup is going to be probably 4-6lbs... a small Kong is fine for a pup that size. I use medium ones with Casper now that he's 18lbs.


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## DJEtzel (Dec 28, 2009)

Crantastic said:


> Keep in mind that an AKK pup is going to be probably 4-6lbs... a small Kong is fine for a pup that size. I use medium ones with Casper now that he's 18lbs.


Crap. I had that thought as I was typing the rest of my post and was going to edit it... Very good point! I still don't like small kongs after my 5 week old pit puppy chewed one in half (as a safety hazard) but I don't really see an AKK chewing through one.


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## Crantastic (Feb 3, 2010)

You never know, though. My 9lb papillon ruined a medium black Kong, the little jerk. And on the first day I gave it to her, too.


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## DJEtzel (Dec 28, 2009)

Crantastic said:


> You never know, though. My 9lb papillon ruined a medium black Kong, the little jerk. And on the first day I gave it to her, too.


Wow, really? I am not used to having chewers. I'm almost thinking about never getting another dog because my three have completely spoiled me.


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## LoMD13 (Aug 4, 2010)

My dog is 8 lbs and a small Kong is the perfect size for her. She eats half her meals out of it.


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## PandaSPUR (Mar 5, 2013)

I'll do my best to socialize him, although I know I wont be able to do a perfect job. Aside from the 2-3 friends with dogs, I dont have many dogs I can socialize him with. So yes, I'll most likely be taking him to puppy class to make up for this.

Parvo has me paranoid though. I didnt know it takes BLEACH to actually kill the virus... I'm probably gonna mop my house with a diluted bleach solution before he arrives, just in case anyone might have carried the virus in on their shoes.
And I guess this means the lil guy will either be indoors or in his carrier bag until all vaccines are done. This is NYC and there are strange dogs everywhere :|

As for the Kong, I'm glad to hear a small is just fine lol. Hopefully Ares doesn't chew straight through it o_o Haven't really heard much either way about AKK chewing habits.
Also thinking of getting him this thing: http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-...TF8&colid=3CYU2NOUQFIS5&coliid=I1DKZ7S4ZW748D

And I guess I'll remain wary about what my vet recommends. Still not sure which route to take at this point though.


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## Allison_v (Jun 22, 2013)

Crate training trains your dog to not potty in their living space and teaches bladder control. By leaving your door open when you're not there will not help crate train him it just basically acts as a dog house instead of a "den". Dogs don't want to eliminate in their dens or living space so I highly recommend not leaving the door open with access to litter box at any time. This will prolong his potty training. Instead crate with door closed and them immediately upon taking him out of kennel taxi him outside to his potty area and then praise and treat. Allowing a potty area in the house will also prolong potty training because they don't associate pottying with just outside and it will confuse them later on. Accidents inside will happen, just keep them in close off (gated area) with you while home and let out every couple of hours or when they show signs of needing to potty. Both my dogs were duly crate trained within a week. Our 12 week pyr pup has been able to control her bladder all night in her crate without needing out in the middle of the night (of course if she whined to go out we would immediately let her out!) but by crating her she taught her self to control her bladder because she didn't want to pee in her living space which is the whole purpose of crating. If you want to allow your pup a small gated area to be in while at work or during the night with access to pottying I wouldnt put the crate with them but introduce the crate a little later when they have more bladder control. I personally believe crate training speeds is house training by several months. But you new to do whatever you feel more comfortable with! Good luck with your pup!!


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