# puppy cries when i bring him outside



## DontbeTHATguy (Jan 17, 2010)

i have a 8 week old pure bread German Shepherd i bought 3 days ago. He lately has been urinating and pooping on my floor in my house. I dont smack him or anythign when he does it, because i dont really believe in training dogs by beating them. This is my first dog even though im 24 years old lol. I bring him outside and set him in the grass and he just cries and cries, he wont go to the bathroom. I was thinking if everytime i see him about to "make" i put him in a large container with grass and dirt in it, so he gets the idea? Would that work? He also cries alot at night if he is not in my bed, The only way i can get a decent nights sleep is by letting him sleep between my neck and shoulder. I KNOW its not too cold in my house, i keep it a steady 73 degrees F. Any ideas?

He's a picture of him, He's mostly all black but has brown spots on his back legs and tummy


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## Maura (Mar 17, 2009)

DontbeTHATguy said:


> i have a 8 week old pure bread German Shepherd i bought 3 days ago. He lately has been urinating and pooping on my floor in my house. I dont smack him or anythign when he does it, because i dont really believe in training dogs by beating them. This is my first dog even though im 24 years old lol. I bring him outside and set him in the grass and he just cries and cries, he wont go to the bathroom. I was thinking if everytime i see him about to "make" i put him in a large container with grass and dirt in it, so he gets the idea? Would that work? He also cries alot at night if he is not in my bed, The only way i can get a decent nights sleep is by letting him sleep between my neck and shoulder. I KNOW its not too cold in my house, i keep it a steady 73 degrees F. Any ideas?
> 
> He's a picture of him, He's mostly all black but has brown spots on his back legs and tummy


Eight weeks is actually a bit young for a GSD to leave home. You need to feed him a high quality food. What are you feeding him? You need to use a crate, and you need to pay attention to his schedule. Most puppies will go about 30 minutes after eating. Take him outside at this time. Put a harness on him and a leash. Bring him to the spot you want him to go in. Have a treat ready in your hand. The instant he starts to go, pee or poop, give him a "cue" word. It could be "hurry up", "go potty", whatever you want, but always use the same. Use a calm voice. The instant he is done, put the treat to his nose, "good boy". Then, jog back and forth in the yard. Pat your leg as he follows you. When he gets ahead, change directions so he is following you. You want to make sure he's really done so he doesn't go in the house, and you want him to anticipate playing AFTER pooping, and you are training him to follow you when you pat his leg.

When you go to bed, first take the puppy outside and run around with him, then go to bed. Put a few kibbles in the crate and close it. Get ready for bed, put puppy in crate, get in bed. He'll whine a little then go to sleep. In the middle of the night get up and take him outside. Back in crate, go to bed.


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## Bossy Bama (Jan 8, 2010)

Great advice given. If you schedule the food & water, you will also regulate when your puppy needs to potty. 

Make sure you stop the food & water at least a couple of hours before bedtime.

While in the crate, do not give in to the whining and crying. I'm sure he misses his mama and siblings. But if you give in, he will continue to cry even more the next time, expecting you to take him out to sleep with you. Once he realizes that the crate is his sleeping place, and that he has to stay there, he will learn to settle himself and he will sleep. 

It may take a few nights for him to fully get the message, so be prepared for some long nights ahead.


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## briteday (Feb 10, 2007)

And to minimize the house soiling you must supervise him with both eyes any time he is out of the crate. If you are busy with something then he needs to go in the crate. Once he is more reliable you can gate him off in a kitchen or such when you are busy to keep rare messes off the carpeting. But until he is 100% trained (6-12 months usually) try to minimize the chances of the dog making a mistake. Every mistake is 2 steps backwards in the training process.


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## DrmnOfMaui (Dec 24, 2009)

We are still struggling with the potty training too! Our two maltese boys are 14 weeks old and mostly get it... but today with our first rainy day they have had a difficult time. One of them regularly used the PupHead (fake grass inside the house) that we have for them, the other one refuses to use it. They were trained to potty pads at the breeders, and still think that anything left on the floor is for them to pee on. We are about 75 percent good, but still having accidents.

When I brought them home one of them really had trouble outside too. Every time I put him on the ground he would cry and shake. I did as recommended above and put them in the crate, took them right outside, and more often than not they really had to go, so it happened outside. Luckily we had a really nice warm weather spell (San Diego!) and they were able to spend a good amount of time outside and really figured it out. I talked to him and made it sound like it was no big deal to be outside and just kind of ignored him out there. Eventually it worked!

The keep TWO eyes on them is the best advice you can use. I think that at this age they don't really know that they are going to have to go soon, so when they feel it they can't hold it. 

The crate has been extremely helpful to us... hang in there! We are too!


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## Dog_Shrink (Sep 29, 2009)

Again with the crating... you can also CONFINE the dog in a dog safe room insted of crating. paper train him then bring his messed papers out side for the corrolation of where he is suppose to eliminate. paper training does not slow down potty training. Also letting ihm sleep in your room would help withthe crying anxiety. As long as he can hear you breath and hear your heartbeat it will soothe him and he won't have to be stuck under your neck.


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## DeniseV (Nov 8, 2009)

DontbeTHATguy said:


> i have a 8 week old pure bread German Shepherd i bought 3 days ago. He lately has been urinating and pooping on my floor in my house. I dont smack him or anythign when he does it, because i dont really believe in training dogs by beating them. This is my first dog even though im 24 years old lol. I bring him outside and set him in the grass and he just cries and cries, he wont go to the bathroom. I was thinking if everytime i see him about to "make" i put him in a large container with grass and dirt in it, so he gets the idea? Would that work? He also cries alot at night if he is not in my bed, The only way i can get a decent nights sleep is by letting him sleep between my neck and shoulder. I KNOW its not too cold in my house, i keep it a steady 73 degrees F. Any ideas?
> 
> He's a picture of him, He's mostly all black but has brown spots on his back legs and tummy


I just had to reply to say, he is so adorable!!! What a gorgeous puppy!!!!

I personally wouldn't put grass or dirt in his crate. Leave the crate for sleeping/resting only. 

He will eventually get the picture; outside is for peeing and pooping. He will get it. Walk him a little, let him sniff every blade of grass. Walking also stimuulates the bladder, which should help him pee.

Another idea: If he has an accident inside, this may sound gross and some may disagree, but when you clean up the accident, say it is pee. Wipe it up with a papertowel and immediately take it outside and rub the papertowel in the area where you want your puppy to go. If the indoor accident is poop, this is even easier. Take the poop, bring it outside, and put it in the area where you want him to go.

After you do this, immediately take your pup outside and lead him to the area where you put the pee and/or poop scent. I would leave the poop there until he gets the picture. Obviously once he starts pooping outside in the designated area regularly, you will be picking it up, but let him get a scent of this outside.

Also as a side note: Get a good cleaning product for indoor accidents such as Natures Miracle. When he has an accident (after you try the above suggestions) clean the indoor accident thoroughly, using the Natures Miracle.

It has an enzyme in it which breaks down the odor of the pee and poop. Other cleaners may appear to have cleaned the accident but your pup will still be able to pick up the scent. Natures Miracle is, well....a miracle.  It really works wonders.

Your little guy is still so young, so it will take him time to get used to things.

When he does pee or poop outside, throw a party! Praise him with, "Good boy!! Potty outside! Good boy!!!" and give him a treat. I would suggest a treat each and every time he poops or pees outside. Combine a treat with verbal praise (really go nuts with the verbal praise! Let him know what he did was AWESOME!!! Show how proud you are! Remember, these little guys love to please their owners!)

In the beginning when he shows fear, soothe him with soft words, "It's okay. Go pee pee." Or, "Go poo poo". As I said, let him sniff all around, every blade of grass, every pebble.....go slow with him.

And if he still does go, walk a little ways to stimulate the bladder....I promise he will eventually catch on.

Good luck and he is so cute!

Denise


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## Labsnothers (Oct 10, 2009)

At bed time, with a new puppy, I have found lying down in front of the crate like you were going to sleep and speaking softly to it, or singing, until it settles down and goes to sleep works very well. Follow the pattern, a period of active play, outside to eliminate, and then into the crate.

Take it out on leash. Walk around. They can only walk and hold it so long. When it finally has to go, lavish praise on it.

What does a puppy need?

A crate. It is only natural that a puppy resists its crate at first. What the
puppy wants more than anything else is to be others, you, anyone else in the
household, and any other pets. In our modern society, even if we are home, other
things distract us from the attention an uncrated puppy must have. The only real
solution is to crate the dog when you aren't around. The dog may be happier in
its den than loose in the house. It relaxes, it feels safe in its den. It rests,
the body slows down reducing the need for water and relieving its self. Dogs
that have been crated all along do very well. Many of them will rest in their
crates even when the door is open. Skip the bedding. At first it gets wet, and
later it can be chewed into choking hazards. A wire rack in the bottom will help
keep the puppy up out of accidents at first. They are available with the crates,
but a piece of closely spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is
cheaper. I think the plastic ones give the dog more of a safe, enclosed den
feeling. Metal ones can be put in a corner or covered with something the dog
can't pull in and chew. Select a crate just big enough for the full grown dog to
stretch out in. At bed time, with a new puppy, I have found lying down in front
of the crate like you were going to sleep and speaking softly to it, or singing,
until it settles down and goes to sleep works very well. Follow the pattern, a
period of active play, outside to eliminate, and then into the crate.

Chew toys. The pet stores are full of toys that many dogs will quickly chew up
into pieces they could choke on or cause intestinal blockages. If you are not
there to watch, stick to sturdy stuff such as Nylabones and Kongs. Keep a close
eye on chew toys and quickly discard anything that is coming apart in pieces.
Rawhide is especially bad because it swells after being swallowed. These
problems are the worst with, but not limited to, large, aggressive chewers such
as Labs.

Food. Find out what the breeder is feeding. If it is dry chow you can buy
readily, I would stick with it until the dog is 4 months old, at that time
switching to a dry adult chow. If not, try to have the breeder give you a few
days supply to use making a gradual change to a dry puppy chow.

Dishes. Empty plastic food containers are good enough. If you want something
nicer, buy the spill proof? ones. I have found them at Big Lots.

A collar and leash. You should stay with a flat fabric or leather collar until
your puppy is 5 months old. Then you can go with the metal slip collar with the
rings on each end. Otherwise you could damage its windpipe. Put it on like this
for the usual dog on the left position. Pull the chain through the one ring
forming a"P". Facing the dog, slip it over its head. The free end comes over the
neck allowing the other end to release pressure when the leash is slack. A five
month old's head will still grow some. If you buy one that easily goes over the
head, it still should come off leaving the ears when the dog finishes growing. I
start the puppy out with a metal leash and switch to a leather one after the
worst of the chewing is over and I need more control.

A name, try http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/names/petnames.htm#1 and
http://www.cat-dog-names.com/

A brush. Start the puppy with a bristle brush. They don't shed much at first,
and the bristle brush will remove dirt and help control odor. When shedding
becomes a problem later, switch to a slicker brush with the wire teeth.

The number of a vet. It is very hard to evaluate them. Dogs need more medical
care than in the past. Many new problems are wide spread.

A book. Any book is better than none at all. I like the Monks of New Skete and
their The Art of Raising a Puppy, ISBN 0-316-57839-8.

Obedience training. A good obedience class or book is about you being top dog,
not about rewarding standard commands with a treat. Start obedience training the
day you get the dog. Build on the foundation of housebreaking. The younger the
puppy, the shorter you must keep sessions, only a few repetitions at a time. A
few minutes here and there, and by the time the puppy is 4 months old, people
will be impressed with what a nice dog it is.

A Puppy and dog foprum bookmark so you can come back for help as needed.

I didn't forget treats, shampoo, and bedding. I seldom use them.

Much of housebreaking is not training the puppy, but making it easier for your puppy, you, and your carpet while its body to catches up to its instincts. At around 8 weeks when the puppy goes to its new home, the time from when it realizes it has to go, and when it can't wait any longer is a matter of seconds. Only time will fix that. You can hardly be expected to be attentive enough to avoid all accidents. There is no sense punishing the puppy for your inattention. It is not fair to punish you either, but you still have to clean it up if you didn't have the puppy outside in time.

Housebreaking starts before you get home with the new puppy. If you don't have a crate, buy one. I prefer the more enclosed, den like plastic ones. Skip the bedding. At first it gets wet, and later it can be chewed into choking hazards. A wire grid in the bottom will help keep the puppy up out of accidents at first. They are available with the crates, but expensive and hard to find. A piece of closely spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is cheaper. I am now using a plastic vegetable bin with plenty of holes drilled in the bottom. It helps block off part of the crate for the smaller puppy. If you already have a metal crate, covering it may help. Just make sure you use something the puppy can't pull in and chew. Dogs that start out in crates as little puppies, accept them very well. Never leave an unattended puppy loose in the house. If nobody can watch it, put it in the crate. I suggest letting the dog have its crate all its life. A crate needs to be just big enough for a dog to stretch out in.

Choose a command and spot you want it to use. The less accessible to strays, the less chance of serious disease. If it is a female, choosing a non grassy spot will avoid brown spots later. When you bring it home, take it to the spot and give it the command in a firm, but friendly voice. Keep repeating the command and let the puppy sniff around. Sometimes you need to walk it around to stimulate its body to eliminate. If it does anything, praise it. Really let it know what a good dog it is and how much you love it, and maybe a treat. Note, being out there not only means you can praise it, but it also keeps it from being snatched by a hawk. If it doesn't go, take it inside and give it a drink and any meals scheduled. A young puppy will need to go out immediately afterward. Go to the spot and follow the above routine. Praising it if it goes is extremely important. If it doesn't go, take it back inside and put it in its crate and try again soon. Do not let it loose in the house until it does go.

At first it is your responsibility to know and take the puppy out when it needs to go. It needs to go out the first thing in the morning, after eating, drinking, and sleeping. If it quits playing, and starts running around sniffing, it is looking for a place to go. Take it out quickly. You will just have to be what I call puppy broke until it is a little older. How successful you are depends on how attentive you are.

By the time most dogs are about 3 months old, they have figured out that if they go to the door and stand, you will let them out. The praise slowly shifts to going to the door. Some people hang a bell there for the dog to paw. If your dog doesn't figure this out, try praising it and putting it out if it even gets near the door. When you catch it in the act, give it a sharp ''Ah, ah, ah!'' and take it out. Clean up accidents promptly. I mostly keep the little puppies out of the carpeted rooms. Still I need the can of carpet foam sometimes. First blot up all the urine you can with a dry towel. Keep moving it and stepping on it until a fresh area stays dry. A couple big putty knives work well on bowel movements. Just slide one under it while holding it with the other. This gets it up with a minimum of pushing it down into the carpet. This works with even relatively soft ones, vomit, dirt from over turned house plants, or anything else from solids to thick liquids. Finish up with a good shot of carpet foam. Note, do not let the puppy lick up the carpet foam. Once the dog is reliably housebroken, your carpet may need a good steam cleaning.

Many people strongly strongly push cleaning up all evidence of past accidents. I am slower to suggest that. Dogs will return to the same spot if they can find it. When you see one sniffing the spot, that is your clue to run it out.


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