# Training a Herding Dog to Jog



## Iron Mädchen (Apr 3, 2009)

We adopted our half German Shepherd half Queensland heeler about a month ago from a shelter. She was a stray and had never been trained, and she's now about a year old. She has learned soooo much and we are so proud of her! One thing I am not sure how to train her on is to jog next to me. She walks very well on a leash (Save a few exciting puppy ADD distractions now and again), but whether on a leash or off, if I try to jog or run with her, she wants to play and herd me. She will jump up and nip at me. I try telling her 'no' and keep going, and when she continues to jump and nip, I then stop, get her to calm down and make her sit and obey me, which she will do. As soon as I try again, she continues the herding/nipping/jumping behaviour. She is a very sweet dog and listens and obeys most of the time. I have only just started trying to train her to jog next to me nicely and would like some advice on how to do this properly, as I don't see it on the dog training sites I've been visiting (which have been so helpful otherwise!).

Thanks much!


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

Try short runs. By that I mean get her to run with you for just a few steps and then stop...praise/treat for running with you without any nipping/jumping. Most herders won't immediately attack your heels....take advantage of that and reinforce just the running.
Another tactic that you can try after she understands the game is a sudden change in direction....turn into her. She'll start keeping a little distance from you...and watching you more closely.
Use the praise/treats and avoid the corrections as much as possible. Saying No and stopping isn't what you want to teach here.....you want her to run nicely...that's what you want to reward.


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## Shaina (Oct 28, 2007)

I'd second TooneyDogs...that's how I did it as well, lol. You won't get much jogging done at first, but don't expect to...taking it slow in the beginning will pay off later 

Just to be clear, when I rewarded while running I would mark the behavior and hand over the treat while still running to avoid rewarding the stop instead.


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## Lonewolfblue (Oct 28, 2007)

I had the same thing with Betty when I had her. She would go at my heels anytime I went into a run. How I cured that is to start with a good heel. Once you are walking good with your dog next to you, then you can work up to a fast walk. Once you reach a fast walk, you can up it to a slow jog for short distances, just keep working on it. Eventually you will be jogging with your dog next to you. It took Betty about 2-3 months to get to where I can run with her next to me or in front without her going after my heels. But I think the key to it is a good heel first, set some rules and boundaries. Then work your way up from there.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

Lonewolfblue said:


> I had the same thing with Betty when I had her. She would go at my heels anytime I went into a run. How I cured that is to start with a good heel. Once you are walking good with your dog next to you, then you can work up to a fast walk. Once you reach a fast walk, you can up it to a slow jog for short distances, just keep working on it. Eventually you will be jogging with your dog next to you. It took Betty about 2-3 months to get to where I can run with her next to me or in front without her going after my heels. But I think the key to it is a good heel first, set some rules and boundaries. Then work your way up from there.


Dog was 11 months old which just makes her a puppy when you got her, there is no hurry. I agree with LWB some obedience class or lessons to start her on heeling pups got to crawl before they walk, larger pups got to heel before they jog.


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## hulkamaniac (Feb 11, 2009)

I have a dog who tries to do the opposite. He walks just fine, but when we run he surges ahead and tries to pull my arm off. I compensate by moving his leash up his neck to where it's under his chin. When I run, I keep him beside me with his head up the way they do in dog shows. It works beautifully.


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## Elana55 (Jan 7, 2008)

The way I have dealt with this is to teach the dog first to walk on a loose leash with head at my left leg in heel position.. and to sit when I stop. Essentially, train the dog to heel. Then work on speed transitions.. rewarding for the heel positions and teaching the dog to keep up with you from slow to fast and BACK from faster to slow and to stop. 

Train changes in direction at slow speeds and then at fast sepeeds. Before stopping, straighten up taller and THEN stop, expecting the dog to sit upon stopping. he straightening up warns the dog that stop is about to happen. Never change direction with no warning.. and a warning requires you to use the same foot work for the change BEFORE the change. 

The point is to train the dog to heel no matter the change in speed or change in direction or stopping. I did this with a 4 foot leash and a clicker and treats.. adding the voice command and using "touch" and my hand as a guide for proper position set up. 

When your dog understands what it is to heel, if he jumps at you or does any other non desirable (non heeling ) behavior, IMMEIDATELY STOP and ask for a sit (ask if the dog does not do it automatically).


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## Iron Mädchen (Apr 3, 2009)

Thanks so much for all of your contributions. I will try rewarding her for short distances while still jogging as well as continue training her at different speeds on the leash.


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## Marsh Muppet (Nov 29, 2008)

If you want run with her before the heeling/loose-leash training goodness is fully realized, you can make a stand-off leash by snaking a length of rope through a piece of PVC pipe. Use a pipe that allows the rope to fit reasonably snugly inside, and tie a knot in the rope on either end so it doesn't slide around. Leave about 6" of slack on the dog's end, and enough to make a loop on yours. I use a double-8 knot to attach the clip. You can experiment with lengths and the amount of slack that works for you both. 

I used this set up when trying to ride a bike with a dog. The dog heeled well while walking, but as soon as the bike got going he only wanted to bite the tires. As with any new apparatus, start slowly and acclimate the dog to the equipment. Some dogs get wiggy when you break out a new tool.

It's not a substitute for the obedience training suggested above, but just another thing to keep in your bag of tricks.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

Marsh Muppet said:


> If you want run with her before the heeling/loose-leash training goodness is fully realized, you can make a stand-off leash by snaking a length of rope through a piece of PVC pipe. Use a pipe that allows the rope to fit reasonably snugly inside, and tie a knot in the rope on either end so it doesn't slide around. Leave about 6" of slack on the dog's end, and enough to make a loop on yours. I use a double-8 knot to attach the clip. You can experiment with lengths and the amount of slack that works for you both.
> 
> I used this set up when trying to ride a bike with a dog. The dog heeled well while walking, but as soon as the bike got going he only wanted to bite the tires. As with any new apparatus, start slowly and acclimate the dog to the equipment. Some dogs get wiggy when you break out a new tool.
> 
> It's not a substitute for the obedience training suggested above, but just another thing to keep in your bag of tricks.


Nice, different type of heeling stick. I think I will make one for my tool bag. great for starting puppies.


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