# How do you properly use a 30 ft or 50 ft lead?



## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

I cannot and do not understand how to use one of these! They're so long that I have no idea how to hold them when we're out in the field or park or wherever. 

I'm trying to train Nia to come when called EVERY TIME especially around other dogs. Currently she comes every time if there are other people and sounds but not when there are other dogs that she knows well and loves. In cases like these she will follow the other dogs instead of listen to me.

Also I would like to use it for teaching her stay or long periods of time without really having her off leash since it's not allowed in our parks.

Can anyone tell me a proper way to hold the leash? I tried to wrap it around my arm but then it took a really long time and when Nia came to me half the lead was dragging on the floor and had caught small bushes, weeds and sticks not to mention wrapped itself around my dog.


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## emily445455 (Apr 8, 2008)

I use a 30 ft lead when I take one of my dogs to the park. I just use there so I don't have to be so close to them all the time like on a 6 ft leash. They can walk around and sniff and whatever all at a good distance away from me, but I still have control over them. I hold it like any other leash, in my hand. Sometimes it gets tangled in bush, or around my dog, or around me, lol...but it's easy to fix.

This is how I would use a long lead for recall: Put them in a sit wait, walk the length of the lead, say "_____ Come!" and if they delay or stop half way gently pull them in saying things like "hurry hurry! hurry you silly dog!" in a happy voice, then treat when they get to you.

For stay I would do: Put them in a sit/down stay, walk around a little, go back to your dogs side, and heel them out of it. 

GL


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

30 and 50 foot is really long. Did you train at the shorter distances first?...you should. 
A flexi is often the longest tool that is used for obedience (tracking is a longer line) and as they're retractable, you don't have the tangling problem.


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

TooneyDogs said:


> 30 and 50 foot is really long. Did you train at the shorter distances first?...you should.
> A flexi is often the longest tool that is used for obedience (tracking is a longer line) and as they're retractable, you don't have the tangling problem.


Yup, I used a 10 ft and 15 ft.

I am scared of flexis now after an incident I experienced a few days ago. I posted about it in the leash/off leash debate thread where 2 dogs I knew got too excited and it wrapped around and got tangled. One was choking to death and stuck on the other dog's back which started them both on vicious snarling attacking behavior because one thinks someone is going to choke him to death while the other things the snarling choking one is trying to kill him being stuck on his back.

Also I've had a few experiences with the flexi flying out of my hand with a sudden movement from my dog and the thing hitting and snapping at my dog's behind while she screamed and ran away as fast as she can in fear. She thought someone was chasing and biting her. It took me hours to find her again after she got stuck somewhere.



emily445455 said:


> This is how I would use a long lead for recall: Put them in a sit wait, walk the length of the lead, say "_____ Come!" and if they delay or stop half way gently pull them in saying things like "hurry hurry! hurry you silly dog!" in a happy voice, then treat when they get to you.


That's what I do right now with a 15 ft. She does reasonably well so I wanted to increase to 30 or even 50 and that's when all the tangling and dragging and stuff started to happen. I can't seem to untangle it very quickly and sometimes it gets tangled around other dogs...


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## emily445455 (Apr 8, 2008)

Michiyo-Fir said:


> That's what I do right now with a 15 ft. She does reasonably well so I wanted to increase to 30 or even 50 and that's when all the tangling and dragging and stuff started to happen. I can't seem to untangle it very quickly and sometimes it gets tangled around other dogs...


Oh ok, usually when I take them to the park like that there are no other dogs around. And if there are, I usually reel them in and hold the leash as if it were just 6 feet long.

You figure it out after you use it awhile  I used to get tangled in all kinds of stuff, but not so much anymore...you learn to avoid things like bushes and big sticks. It gets easier.


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

emily445455 said:


> Oh ok, usually when I take them to the park like that there are no other dogs around. And if there are, I usually reel them in and hold the leash as if it were just 6 feet long.


How do you reel and hold it? I can't seem to figure out how to hold my dog close to me with all the lead everywhere. I tried wrapping it around my arm but it somehow got tangled and fell right to the floor in a big pile ....


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## emily445455 (Apr 8, 2008)

Michiyo-Fir said:


> How do you reel and hold it? I can't seem to figure out how to hold my dog close to me with all the lead everywhere. I tried wrapping it around my arm but it somehow got tangled and fell right to the floor in a big pile ....


This will be tricky to explain I think, lol. But I will try. When I am walking my dogs to the park I use their 6 ft leash, and hold the 30 ft one in my other hand, loosely wrapped up in loops about a foot long so I don't trip over them. There are usually no knots, and if there is one it is easy to take out. I do the same thing when I "reel" in my dogs, lol that sounds funny. I loosely wrap it up in my hand until they are close enough to do whatever I wanted to do with them. 

When I want it to act like a 6 ft leash, I will again loosely wrap it up and hold it in my hand...then I will wrap a make-shift leash handle around my hand and hold on with my palm. 

Think of like an extention cord when I say loosely wrapped in loops, it can be easily held and transported...but it won't get tangled. I hope that makes sense 

Sometimes they are a little tricky, but I like them too much to give them up


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## winniec777 (Apr 20, 2008)

Emily is right - it just takes practice. I use a 30 or 60 ft lead. I double or triipple wrap the handle around my left hand and constantly feed out and reel in with the right, making big loops that fit into my left hand. If other dogs are around and it looks like she might wrap the lead around someone or a dog, I drop it. People have gotten pretty used to lead jumping with Poca around - lol. And I trained Poca to come back my way when I say "this way!" That's how I keep her from wrapping around trees, tables, etc.


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## FilleBelle (Aug 1, 2007)

I think it's partially a management issue, as well. If there are dogs in the way, go to your park when it is less crowded. If it is getting caught in plants and bushes, practice in a corner of the park's parking lot, rather than in the park itself.


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

I think another issue is that the dog I'm training is only 5 or 6 lbs and the lead itself is very very thick and the clasp is HUGE. It could hold a St. Bernard. The leash feels very heavy and difficult. The lead is probably a pound just by itself and the clasp (I attach to a harness because it's so heavy it pulls my dog's head down) does not feel good to her. 

I might have to try a different shop to find an easier thinner lead and see what I can do.


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## RubyLove (May 4, 2009)

http://www.lehighgroup.com/fiber.htm

I use the 3rd one down on that page. It is very lightweight and durable, easily holds a knot (doesn't slip out) and I made a handle by knotting it and using duct tape to make it easier to hold and not hurt my hands. I just tie it onto her collar. I bought a 50ft one for about $5 and cut it down to about 35ft. If I need her to be closer I loop it shorter and use the handle end to knot and secure it.

I used it today to play fetch outside my apartment because dogs are all meant to be on-leash. I tied it to the stairs and she had enough room to run without it being long enough for her to annoy people


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## zhaor (Jul 2, 2009)

Yeah I went to home depot and bought a rope for about $10. It came with a plastic holder thingy that I keep the rope wrapped on. Then just tie on a clasp and presto, 50ft lead .

This way I just keep the rope on the holder and it's plenty easy to carry.

here's a picture. I took the clasp off of a old flexi.


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## FilleBelle (Aug 1, 2007)

It would definitely help to have a leash that was the appropriate size for your dog.

The 50' lead I bought for Alvin's basic obedience class at the SPCA was like this. You will notice it is only 5/8" wide, which is quite petite, and has a clasp to match. His regular 4' leash is much wider and heavier, with a heafty clasp.


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

Thanks for all the help everyone! I will probably try and get a very thin 30 ft or 50 ft lead and get a holder at a hardware store. It will make training and playing much easier!


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## Hallie (Nov 9, 2008)

I've found that as far as training goes 15 ft leashes work the best. Once you get more advanced in recall training a longer one is needed, I have a 50 ft leash I picked up for just $6 in the packaging that had never been used  it was a dog training leash. I never use it though.


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

Hallie said:


> I've found that as far as training goes 15 ft leashes work the best. Once you get more advanced in recall training a longer one is needed, I have a 50 ft leash I picked up for just $6 in the packaging that had never been used  it was a dog training leash. I never use it though.


I've already trained with a 15 ft. Nia does fine on it so I want to try and give her a bit more freedom to run, fetch, etc. Yet still be able to reel her back in when she's called and to reinforce her recall.

Your 50 ft leash is so cheap! Here it's $20...


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## Marsh Muppet (Nov 29, 2008)

zhaor said:


> Yeah I went to home depot and bought a rope for about $10. It came with a plastic holder thingy that I keep the rope wrapped on. Then just tie on a clasp and presto, 50ft lead .


I use the same rope in the 100 ft. length. I coil it so that I can just open my hand and let the line play out when the dog runs. When the dog is recalling back to you, there is no way to haul in the line fast enough to keep control of the dog. My dog can swim faster than I can haul in the line. That's where your work with the shorter lines has to be solid before messing with extended recall work.

Getting a dog to come back at full gallop--even from 500 feet away--is not that hard. It's usually the last 15-20 feet that gives inexperienced trainers the fits. I've seen lots of dogs recall like a runaway freight train, only to jump around just out of the trainer's reach. There are a couple of tricks for that, but mostly it's a matter of building a solid foundation and not rushing the distance work.


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## RyanK44 (Aug 16, 2009)

Getting a dog to come every time is about getting your dog in the correct state of mind. If your dog is being stubborn around his friends, calling his/her name and making a fus of yourself is a good way to get the dogs attention and arrouse his curiosity, he'll want to inspect and naturally will find his way to you, then you can reward. Another technique is to exploit your dogs natural "Prey" instinct, by running away you can often get your dog to chase you, then when the dog "catches" you and relaxes, you can reward. The lead should never be used to bring your dog to you, only to control the dog from running off


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

RyanK44 said:


> Getting a dog to come every time is about getting your dog in the correct state of mind. If your dog is being stubborn around his friends, calling his/her name and making a fus of yourself is a good way to get the dogs attention and arrouse his curiosity, he'll want to inspect and naturally will find his way to you, then you can reward. Another technique is to exploit your dogs natural "Prey" instinct, by running away you can often get your dog to chase you, then when the dog "catches" you and relaxes, you can reward. The lead should never be used to bring your dog to you, only to control the dog from running off


I've tried making a fuss, all the other dogs come first and she follows them to me only because her friends are coming this way.

Running away doesn't do anything. I've tried and she just keeps on playing with her friends. She doesn't care if I leave her or not.

The only way I want to try is using a lead right now because even bringing food and telling her that I have treats doesn't work. Or toys either.


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## JustTess (Mar 19, 2008)

She sounds too distracted at the park when you're wanting her to come to you. How is she with commands on a shorter leash at the park?

I would be very careful with working with a long lead. It could pull your arm off.



When I want to use the long lead with my dogs, I want to make sure they compy with what I'm wanting (allowing) them to do. A darting dog running past you or a stranger, spells disaster.

Ilya has pretty good 'line sense' and knows where the end of the line is. I used to use a bungee type cord at the end so it will have a little resistence if he nears the end too quickly. Now, I make a unique clicking sound with my tongue to let him know he's nearing the end (seemed kinda silly shouting). 

Lola (my terrier) need much more training with the long lead.  She loves, loves, loves people and other dogs and she can really pull. If she should ever dart off full speed... I think I will become airborn.


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

She will come within a 20 ft radius 97% of the time. Anywhere further than that, then she doesn't listen half the time. She will look at me when I say come and she has this look like I'm too far and you can't get me anyways! You can't do anything about it so I won't come! If I have a ball or food or something she wants, she has a slightly higher chance of coming but if I have nothing, she's more interested in the other dogs.

I'm not worried about having my arm pulled off because my dog only weighs 6 lbs and isn't very strong.


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## JustTess (Mar 19, 2008)

Michiyo-Fir said:


> She will come within a 20 ft radius 97% of the time. Anywhere further than that, then she doesn't listen half the time. She will look at me when I say come and she has this look like I'm too far and you can't get me anyways! You can't do anything about it so I won't come! If I have a ball or food or something she wants, she has a slightly higher chance of coming but if I have nothing, she's more interested in the other dogs.
> 
> I'm not worried about having my arm pulled off because my dog only *weighs 6 lbs and isn't very strong*.


Do you have her on a 50' lead you can purchase at a pet store? I would imagine it takes a LOT of effort for her to drag that through the grass unless you have her on kite string.


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## RyanK44 (Aug 16, 2009)

Michiyo-Fir said:


> She will come within a 20 ft radius 97% of the time. Anywhere further than that, then she doesn't listen half the time. She will look at me when I say come and she has this look like I'm too far and you can't get me anyways! You can't do anything about it so I won't come! If I have a ball or food or something she wants, she has a slightly higher chance of coming but if I have nothing, she's more interested in the other dogs.
> 
> I'm not worried about having my arm pulled off because my dog only weighs 6 lbs and isn't very strong.


When you take her for walks, is she way out in front of you, or does she stay to your side or behind you following you? This is very important because how a dog walks with you, establishes how the dog views you as a leader. My dog stays behind me or to the side of me, I have a line in front of me she's NOT allowed to cross until I say so, then she's allowed in front of me for 5-10 mins depending on the overall length of the walk. This simulates a natural migration pattern with a normal dog pack..the leader is in charge and the other dogs follow the leader until he/she decides it's time to explore more (food/water/bathroom) after explore time is over, it's back to the walk. I have a very active German Shepherd, and she used to run out in front and not listen very well, but once I mastered the fundamentals of a good walk, I almost IMMEDIATELY noticed a change. Now I have no problem controlling her.


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## FilleBelle (Aug 1, 2007)

It's probably in your best interest to teach recalls with your new 50' lead in a less distracting environment. The more you call your dog and she doesn't come (because of the other dogs at the park, for example), the more you are reinforcing the idea that she doesn't have to. Get the 50' recall solid just the two of you before you start adding other dogs to the picture!


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## Michiyo-Fir (Jul 25, 2009)

RyanK44 said:


> When you take her for walks, is she way out in front of you, or does she stay to your side or behind you following you? This is very important because how a dog walks with you, establishes how the dog views you as a leader. My dog stays behind me or to the side of me, I have a line in front of me she's NOT allowed to cross until I say so, then she's allowed in front of me for 5-10 mins depending on the overall length of the walk. This simulates a natural migration pattern with a normal dog pack..the leader is in charge and the other dogs follow the leader until he/she decides it's time to explore more (food/water/bathroom) after explore time is over, it's back to the walk. I have a very active German Shepherd, and she used to run out in front and not listen very well, but once I mastered the fundamentals of a good walk, I almost IMMEDIATELY noticed a change. Now I have no problem controlling her.


She walks behind me. When she's on walks, she's fine. I'm trying to get her to have better recall when she's playing with friends. She knows she's not allowed to go play or anything like that until I say go. But when I do say go and she starts running around, her recalls gets pretty bad when she's far away. That's what I currently do, basically what you described. Except the migration time is play time for us.



FilleBelle said:


> It's probably in your best interest to teach recalls with your new 50' lead in a less distracting environment. The more you call your dog and she doesn't come (because of the other dogs at the park, for example), the more you are reinforcing the idea that she doesn't have to. Get the 50' recall solid just the two of you before you start adding other dogs to the picture!


Thanks, that's exactly what I'm going to do. She will come back if there are no dogs even if she's very very far away. As long as she can hear me, she will come back but with dogs around, that's a whole new story. I will try with one or two dogs first and increase until we're in a crowd of dogs and she will still come back. 

Thanks for the help everyone!


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## Marsh Muppet (Nov 29, 2008)

The thing to do is go back to the longest distance and/or the highest level of distraction where the dog consistently responded well. If that's 3 feet away, in an empty soundproofed room, then that's what it has to be.


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## Lonewolfblue (Oct 28, 2007)

When I worked with Betty on a 30ft long line, I just reeled her in, looping the line and holding it with my left hand and reeling in with the right. It was pretty simple, and no problems. Would be hard for me to try and reel a rope in on something I have to hold on to and is too big and bulky. It's easier for me to just loop it in my hand, with the loops being about 18-24 inches.


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