# My rescue dog is EXTREMELY nervous



## DogsKL (Mar 17, 2017)

Hello. We recently (1 month ago) adopted an abandoned 3-4 yo long haired dachshund mix - Harley. She was wandering the city for at least 10 days before being fostered for a week. Here is the situation since we've adopted her:

-she gets along fine with our other dog, a 1.5 yo Shih tsu.
-after the initial few days, she is eating and drinking fine.
-she was in good physical condition when we got her- no signs of abuse 
-she is completely non aggressive and very compliant 

However, she is spending almost all of her time hiding under a bookshelf. She doesn't seem to fear us- she will approach us for physical contact and food, but then go straight back under the shelf.
The big problem is trying to get her to go out to use the bathroom. She is extremely fearful of the leash. When I put it on her she trembles. She literally has to be carried or dragged outside, which I hate to do but otherwise she will go on our carpets.
The funny thing is this: we have a dog park about 500 metres from our house. When she gets over there she is much calmer and will go to the bathroom. Immediately outside our house and in our neighbourhood, she is terrified- pulling on the leash and won't go to the bathroom. I can't understand why she would be more comfortable farther away from the safety of the house? She is so difficult to walk around our house that my 2 sons can't handle her- she has broken free twice and run away- luckily back to our doorstep.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Sean


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## Kathyy (Jun 15, 2008)

Some dogs have a thing about doorways. Wonder if your dog's doorway issue is really extreme?

When you are home try leaving the leash on her so there's no scary fumbling to clip the leash. I avoid this by using slip leads at first. Cookie seen through the loop and as loop passes over head feed the cookie. Have you tried using cookies to get her outside? Try as a lure in hand or a treat trail to the door. 

Have you tried pressure rather than dragging? Have leash taut in the direction of travel and treat/praise when she moves forward. She decides to move and it could take some time the first few tries. Take her out often so you aren't as concerned she will potty in the house.


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## Sprocket2016 (Feb 14, 2017)

I have a "shy" puppy he takes longer to get use to things and I put more work into getting him comfortable 
He hated his leash too at first I'd try to put him on one and he'd stop sit and not move I'd have to drag him anywhere 
I bought a harness instead of a collar and we practiced inside with treats just walking with a leash after about a week I felt he was able to go outside he was scared to go through the door at first but after doing it every day 10 times a day it's a piece of cake now 2 months later we walk on a leash in stores around the yard and up and down our street no problem 
Fun short practice sessions helps a lot start in the house work your way to outside 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gingerkid (Jul 11, 2012)

> I can't understand why she would be more comfortable farther away from the safety of the house?


She has only been with you for a short while. She hasn't yet learned that your house is safe! Especially if she's being dragged outside to go potty multiple times per day. She might be afraid of other things going on around your house - such as cars, or just background traffic noise.

The number one thing to do with fearful dogs is *help them feel safe*. Unfotunately, us humans do not get to decide what makes the dog feel safe, although we can help them learn that home is safe!

On a dog who is already afraid of the leash I wouldn't use leash pressure, and I DEFINITELY would not drag her. If she will come to you and let you pick her up, I would carry her outside every time until she is comfortable with the leash. I also wouldn't keep a leash on her at all times while indoors - yet. That can make some dogs even MORE afraid of the leash, as there is this weird flaily thing following them around all the time. Instead, I would work on teaching her that when the leash comes out, good things happen. Just start by showing it to her briefly and then rewarding by "jackpotting" with several very high value treats (like cooked chicken) in rapid succession. Repeat several times and then stop, take a break/end the session. Gradually build up to moving the clip-end of the leash towards her, and then clipping it on for short periods. Once she is happy to have the leash clipped on, then I would start letting her drag the leash around the house. (If you can, I would also use the lightest weight of leash that you can find, to start with.)

There are some good resources about fearful dogs and walking on a leash here, here, and (once you're able to put a leash on without her being terrified) here

Lastly, there are a lot of great resources for helping fearful dogs at Fearfuldogs.com.


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## GSD_and_Mal (Jan 19, 2017)

We've had fearful foster dogs before, we just ignore them. If she hides under a bookshelf, I would walk by without looking in her direction, but casually drop several treats as I pass her, doing that many times a day. She will probably peek her head out to take the treats. I keep ignoring them until they take the initiative to approach/follow me, and I reward them very heavily for doing so (by throwing a lot of treats on the ground). When you are interacting with her, don't lean over/crowd her, give her plenty of space, get as low as possible (sitting on the floor), don't stare her down (turn your face slightly to the left or right), and let her go at her own pace, however slow it is. 

As for the leash, consider desensitizing her to a clip first, reward heavily every time you put a clip on her collar. Once she is okay with wearing just a clip ,weave a paracord onto it as a light line/leash (make it very short at the beginning), increase the length of the paracord by a small amount every couple of days. Once she is okay dragging around a longer paracord, transition her to an actual leash. 

Here is a photo of a clip with a paracord, hubby weaved a few knots at the end to use it as a handle.....


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## Kathyy (Jun 15, 2008)

How do you get the dog that's hiding under the furniture? I am extremely uncomfortable with the idea of carrying a dog that doesn't know me and trust me. Some of my rescues would allow such close contact right away, others wouldn't but even the compliant dogs were made far more stressed when carried. Try the slip lead. 

You could make a limited slip lead from some 1/4-1/2" braided rope. Tie a metal ring to one end, sew a washer or metal ring at the estimated neck circumference, pull end through to make a loop. If you want to get fancy then sew another washer/ring 6-12" from the first to make a stopper with a generous loop going over the head.

All my dogs took some time getting used to the leash clip fumble but took to the slip lead immediately. Ginger is still awful about the harness but loves the slip lead.


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## gingerkid (Jul 11, 2012)

Kathyy said:


> How do you get the dog that's hiding under the furniture? I am extremely uncomfortable with the idea of carrying a dog that doesn't know me and trust me. Some of my rescues would allow such close contact right away, others wouldn't but even the compliant dogs were made far more stressed when carried. Try the slip lead.


You manage the environment so that the dog doesn't have the chance to hide under furniture. If it's too late for that, you lure them out with the tastiest things you can find.

Dragging the dog out by a leash is not going to help him overcome his fear of the leash, and stands a very real probability of making it worse. The OP has stated that they are already sometimes carrying the dog outside, and that he approaches them "for physical contact", which I'm assuming means pets, suggesting his fear of being handled is - at the very least - less than his fear of the leash.


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## Kathyy (Jun 15, 2008)

No dragging! Slip lead over head and wait.


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## gingerkid (Jul 11, 2012)

Kathyy said:


> No dragging! Slip lead over head and wait.


If the dog is under the furniture (such as in your initial example), how do you propose to slip the lead over it's head? If the dog is under furniture with a leash already attached, but you're suggesting to still wait it out, how is that any better than waiting on its own?


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## DogsKL (Mar 17, 2017)

Thanks all for the time and suggestions. We will definitely work on a few things.
A couple of points: Harley (the rescue) is actually fine when I put the leash on. It's only after it's on that she freezes. Or is this a case of her completely shutting down because she is terrified?
Also, once the leash is on, she will NOT take any treats - even her absolute favourites. How can I reinforce positive behaviours if she will not take food when on the leash?
Thanks again for your replies!
Sean


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## DaySleepers (Apr 9, 2011)

Refusing to take treats is a big sign of being shut down and way past her comfort zone, especially if she's usually very food motivated. At that point, the dog is definitely too stressed to learn anything, you'll have to back up and try a different approach

Could you try letting her drag a really, really light 'leash' - like ribbon - and seeing if she's less anxious about that? It might be a good start to help get her used to the concept.

You want to be working on counterconditioning - here's a couple videos that show the concept/process a little more easily than I can explain!

Good explanation and demonstration with a dog afraid of a slippery floor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-CCJxF-9U4

Done with a dog who's afraid of the leash: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJcTnV6WaBA

These are both using clicker training, which is just marking whenever the dog does a behavior that you like and want to reinforce (look at the scary object, approach scary object, etc). You don't have to use a clicker - just saying 'yes' and immediately following up with a treat works quite well. Just remember that Kikopup's dogs especially are really used to this kind of training, so it's okay if you don't see your pup catching on quite as fast! It's all about patience and not pushing too far too soon.


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## DogsKL (Mar 17, 2017)

Hello,

Thanks for the advice. Certainly some things to work on.
I've been observing Harley closely and this is what I am noticing:
-She will allow me to put the leash on, but she starts to tremble. But, she will take treats while on the leash in the house.
-I can coax her to our front step with a trail of tasty hot dog wieners. She loves them.
-As soon as I pick up the leash as if to take her for a walk, she shuts down and won't move/take treats, even in the house.

So, I'm guessing that I should continue to give her treats in the house with the leash on, and gradually pick up the leash and reward her. If she shuts down, just put the leash down and try again later.
Once she is comfortable with me picking up the leash and will take a treat for it, try walking in the house - rewarding if she is successful.
Further down the road, when she is comfortable walking in the house of the leash, try moving it outside gradually.
Does this sound like it would work? Does anyone see any problems with this plan?

In the meantime, how do I get her outside to go to the bathroom without completely stressing her out and potentially moving backwards in her training? We don't have a yard, so that isn't an option.

Thanks!
Sean


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## DogsKL (Mar 17, 2017)

Also, forgot to mention that she is quite happy to have the leash attached and will drag it around the house. It is literally the act of picking up the leash and signalling that a walk is coming that makes her shut down.

Thanks,
Sean


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## DaySleepers (Apr 9, 2011)

If she's trembling, even if she's still taking treats, you may have to back up even more. Have you tried rewarding her for looking at/interacting with the leash when it's on the floor (not attached), then moving up to the unattached leash in your hand while you're sitting, then standing, then bringing it towards her (but not clipping it), etc? Some dogs need real baby steps to see progress, and the goal is to keep her as comfortable and engaged as possible as you slowly broaden her comfort zone. The process will probably take days or weeks, so you may not even get past the first couple steps in a single session!


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## gingerkid (Jul 11, 2012)

DogsKL said:


> Also, forgot to mention that she is quite happy to have the leash attached and will drag it around the house. It is literally the act of picking up the leash and signalling that a walk is coming that makes her shut down.
> 
> Thanks,
> Sean


Present her with the leash in my hand but not attach it and reward heavily for just looking at it. Then hold the leash in one hand and move your other hand (without the leash) towards her collar and then reward. You don't have to actually touch her if she won't tolerate it, just move your hand in her direction, then take your hand back and reward her. Repeat decreasing the distance between your hand and her collar by very small amounts each time. Then try attaching the leash (don't even let the clasp close) and immediately removing it. Then leave it on for 1-2 seconds without holding on to the other end. After a few repetitions of that - and if you can do it without her trembling or refusing treats - I would attach the leash, hold the end loosely in your hand (like looked around your thumb but not gripping it tightly), and scatter a handful of extra yummy treats on the ground for her to eat. If she is comfortable with this, she'll probably look up at you once she's done eating the treats. Then you can either scatter more, or take an itty bitty step away from her, and encourage her to come with you, and then scatter treats when she does.

Something else that might help is using a harness instead of attaching the leash to her collar; she obviously has had bad experiences with leashes being attached to her collar, so attaching it to a harness instead might be less negative for her.


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