# Why do they make pet adoption so difficult?



## Happyxix (Aug 18, 2013)

I am currently looking to adopt another puppy for my 5 month old Poodle mix (~12 lbs). I rehoused Spartacus since 9 weeks old and went through the trauma of puppy raising. Now he is fully house trained with a nice arsenal of tricks and commands that he listens to (at least indoors). He have been trained on positive reinforcement except during walks which I do use a ever slight pop to get him to not pull.

I am trying to find a playmate for him roughly the same age or another tiny puppy that we can raise. Since he likes to play with small (usually white non-terrier) dogs we are looking to adopt one this time so that another puppy can too have a good home.

Adoption, however, is a major pain. After filling out some applications online and even meeting some at the weekend adoption at Petco, we have found a few Spartacus and us both liked. We were however not chosen so far for 5 different dogs for various reasons. Some reasons given was that Spartacus was not neutered yet. I find that horrible reason as the adopted dog was already spayed so what difference does it make. Spartacus will be neutered next month at 6 months per the vet's instructions.

Others did not even call us back even though we went to meet the dogs at the adoption clinic. Instead, the petfinder information was changed saying that the puppies will be available at the NEXT adoption clinic meaning they didn't find a good match.

At this rate, to get Spartacus a playmate to grow up, we will have no choice but to look into another rehoming/buying situation which I do not want to promote but is heck of a lot easier and faster than adopting.

Is this the norm or am I just running on bad luck?


Here is a obligatory picture. I can buy all the fancy beds and crates I want but he chooses where he wants to sleep.


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## Jen2010 (Feb 12, 2013)

Awe, Spartacus is super cute!

I agree that it's too difficult to adopt. I understand why they're picky about who they adopt dogs to, but, as with most systems, it's flawed.


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## packetsmom (Mar 21, 2013)

Spartacus is adorable! 

Personally, I can see why a reputable rescue might not want to adopt a puppy to someone who already has a 5 month old puppy, due to concerns about littermate syndrome. You may want to research that a bit before jumping into another puppy before this one is a bit older. It can be done, but it takes some special handling to make sure that both dogs bond to humans more than each other or else you can have serious issues with them down the road.

I had issues with adopting from a rescue as well and in my area, we are lucky enough that most of the shelter's dogs get snapped up by the local rescues. Eventually, we found the right dog from the right situation for us through a local board, but it took time and a lot of digging. For us, there always seemed to be some excuse why we weren't the "perfect" home for this dog or that dog and meanwhile the dog would stay in the foster home indefinitely or go to another home that applied after us. In the end, though, I think we just were meant for the dog we ended up with and that's why no others worked out.


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## HollowHeaven (Feb 5, 2012)

Firstly, I think it's beyond stupid that you cannot adopt because you have an in tact dog. They should at least ask why he's in tact. 

But, getting a dog for your dog in not a good idea. Get another dog because YOU want one, because YOU can afford one and have the time for one. Your dog will live without a dog companion, trust me.

Honestly, your dog is still just a baby. Give him some more time to grow up before you get another puppy. It will be a lot easier on you and him.


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## ThoseWordsAtBest (Mar 18, 2009)

Not adopting to homes with unaltered dogs is fairly common. Not right one way or another, but that part is common. The rest I'm not surprised by either, but I can't really say one way or another if they're not returning your calls due to disorganization or what have you, or if you were just not a good match for their dogs.


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## Happyxix (Aug 18, 2013)

Thank you packetsmom. 

I have read up on littermate syndrome when doing research so I will be keen on separating them while training and walking (for a while). If the adopted dog is old enough, then I will also alternate days to the dog park so they can socialize with other dogs too. They will both be crated separately when we are not around.

The only thing I slightly feared is that Spartacus might have a bad influence on the younger dog but besides hiding under anything with a roof (tables, beds, bookshelves..) he have been very well socialized to people and other dogs. He will need a little more training to not jump at guests but he stopped doing that with me already when greeting me.


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## PragueRatter (Aug 6, 2013)

I used to work on home checks, follow ups and pre-adoption applications for an animal charity in the UK and all I can say is, its hugely subjective. 
I, for example, saw no problem with a potential adopter telling me the dog wouldn't be allowed on their bed or their furniture but I know some of the volunteers would put a firm X on the application if it was even hinted that the dog wouldn't be allowed on the sofa. We had dogs and cats that had been in kennels for months because the interviewers were overly protective. 

I think that a good charity that is trying to re-home cats and dogs should do a two week trial period before adoption and always do a few follow-ups. Too many abandoned animals are sitting in kennels for too long when there is really no shortage of perfectly good homes.


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## mcdavis (May 1, 2012)

PragueRatter said:


> I used to work on home checks, follow ups and pre-adoption applications for an animal charity in the UK and all I can say is, its hugely subjective.
> I, for example, saw no problem with a potential adopter telling me the dog wouldn't be allowed on their bed or their furniture but I know some of the volunteers would put a firm X on the application if it was even hinted that the dog wouldn't be allowed on the sofa. We had dogs and cats that had been in kennels for months because the interviewers were overly protective.
> 
> I think that a good charity that is trying to re-home cats and dogs should do a two week trial period before adoption and always do a few follow-ups. *Too many abandoned animals are sitting in kennels for too long when there is really no shortage of perfectly good homes.[/*QUOTE]
> ...


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## Happyxix (Aug 18, 2013)

mcdavis said:


> PragueRatter said:
> 
> 
> > I used to work on home checks, follow ups and pre-adoption applications for an animal charity in the UK and all I can say is, its hugely subjective.
> ...


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## Hambonez (Mar 17, 2012)

I had no issues adopting my dog as a pup from the SPCA. I met his litter, picked him out, filled out a long application, the shelter called my vet for a reference, and $300 later I had a Hamilton! I'd never owned a dog before, but have 3 cats.


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## shannylee (Aug 8, 2013)

I had to fill out an application and the rescue group called my vet for a reference. The lady who runs the rescue told me that she was not about to allow the adoption if I wavered or had no clue about heartworm meds. I live in FL and HWs are a huge problem here. I think these rescue see so many dogs that are recycled because folks think they want a dog until they figure out how much time and work go into having one. I had to sign a form that I would return Bea to the rescue (NEVER) if I ever gave her up (NEVER EVER).


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## deege39 (Dec 29, 2008)

It's all based on your area I imagine... I rescued Donatello from an animal shelter in a county so large they didn't have the manpower to enforce such rules as "in-home visits prior to adoption". I walked in, and within the hour filled out the adoption papers, they all claimed "in-home visits" would be conducted but I never received a phone-call, knock on my door, or even a letter saying "sorry we missed you,"... Migger-doodle came from a rescue ran by a woman so over-crowded w/ puppies and special needs dogs that she didn't even want money for Miggy's adoption. We gave her $50 and took her 50lb bags of dogfood 2x.....

I have heard horror stories but haven't met much resistance; Having a colorful background of working closely w/ dogs in a doggie-daycare and being a pet-groomer for 3years seems to make people more trusting of my knowledge.  lol!


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## Dog Person (Sep 14, 2012)

I don't think things have changed that much with rescues, 13 years ago when we adopted Maggie we had one bad experience and one great experience. The rescue gave us Maggie without any problems, in fact the person liked us so much that she gave us the dog even though I forgot the checkbook ... we made sure they got a better donation for being so nice!

I've heard terrible stories about some rescues; I discussed this with Zoey's Vet and she told me that she was turned down along with a Vet tech, some rescues want that 110% perfect match. My sister put in for 2 dogs at 2 separate rescues and traveled an hour to pick them up each time just to be turned down. So she went to a store and bought a dog - those rescues helped contribute to BYB instead of giving a dog to a loving home. 

I contacted a rescue and was told they want $25 up front before they would even consider an application from me. I asked why and the person was kind of nasty through the email ... I sent one back saying it would be a cold day in hell before I send someone $25 so that they can deny my application just like a lot of rescues do so that they can make money... the next email was a little nicer.

We went to a municipal shelter and adopted Zoey. We originally went for 2 other dogs but one was adopted 10 minutes before we got there and another was too active and not socialized. Zoey was in a kennel with 3 or 4 other pups (siblings?) and my wife picked her out. After a Vet verification Zoey came home with us.

If we ever get another dog it'll probably be from a municipal shelter.


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## LadyB (Mar 7, 2013)

Spartacus is super cute!

My perspective is colored by a situation where I wish a shelter had rejected me as a match for a dog that was waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much for me, a novice owner, and the dog (I live in a dog-dense urban neighborhood where lots of idiots let their totally untrained dogs off leash). It was a terrible, heartbreaking, very expensive situation that was entirely avoidable if they'd properly assessed the dog (and me).

I agree that it varies from place to place and from organization to organization. I understand the OP's frustration (in our 5 month search for the right dog we visited a few "rescues" where the org was so picky and control freaky that it was clear the dogs were languishing in conditions that were not doing them any favors), but I also think that you kind of have to trust that the rescues are making the right decisions for the dogs that they have and the experience they have with owners or potential owners. Why not wait a bit, as someone else has suggested? Lots changes during adolescence—you might find yourself back to square one with training with Spartacus for a while anyway. Regardless of whether or not it's right for a shelter to reject you because Spartacus isn't fixed, he's going to get fixed in a month so why not at least wait that long and remove that potential obstacle?


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## SDRRanger (May 2, 2013)

It's definitely easier to adopt from a pound/shelter as opposed to a rescue. I filled out an adoption form, they called my vet, and I did the 12hour round trip to pick him up. $125.00 later and had the best dog around (I might be biased lol)


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## taquitos (Oct 18, 2012)

Sorry you're having such a hard time!

Could you visit the local SPCA/humane society? It's usually much easier to adopt through them.

I adopted my dog through a local rescue -- the application form was really stupid and asked a lot of dumb detailed questions... and even when I filled out my foster application for another rescue they asked some really annoying questions (like if I would be okay with a home inspection). In the end both turned out to be a relatively easy process. I find it helps when you make a good impression on the people who are processing your application. The rescue I got my dog through got to know me in person before I even filled out an application. I went to visit Meeko several times and spoke to the rescue founder, the workers, etc. so the adoption form was really more of a formality.

I hope you will have better luck sometime soon!


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## Brydean (Apr 3, 2008)

It can be so frustrating. I think alot has to do with the area you live in. SPCA or city pound are easy to adopt from, but never have small dogs, I looked for months. Only a few small dogs showed and and most had issues of some sort. I knew I wasn't prepared to handle a dog with issues.
I don't think one local rescue would approved us at the time. Between unfenced yard and a younger child. I had just changed vets, so had no established vet history. No way one earth was my husband going to agree on 3-4 home checks, from perfect strangers. It was all I could do to talk him into one.
I sympathize!!


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## surlys_mom (Jul 5, 2013)

I'm really sorry to hear about the difficulty you're coming across. It makes me sad to think that some people might be dissuaded from adopting because of places like the ones described in thread. And I have never heard of some of the hoops they make people jump through - home visits? I never knew!

We were fortunate to have had a wonderful adoption experience - it was easy enough, but not TOO easy. We had to fill out a survey about our expectations for the pet, plan for the pet, and our home situation... we then had a supervised meeting with the puppy and once we decided we wanted to adopt her, we had a 2 hour interview/information session. But it certainly didn't feel like we were being grilled or judged during that time - rather, I think they were just looking to gauge our level of commitment but the assumption was that she was ours. Then we paid the rather hefty fee and brought her home.


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## Meghanzord (Aug 18, 2013)

It's a bummer this is being such a hard thing for you to do. Give it some time and I'm sure the right shelter/pound and the right dog will come along.

The shelter I got Calli from was surprisingly lax in the "interview" process. I went in, met the dog, listened to all of their warnings and decided to go for it. Calli had been returned after being adopted for one day by her previous family due to the son being allergic and also for her growling at the son. Like a poster above, part of me wishes they had been a little more stringent in the interview process to make sure the dog and I were the right fit, it kind of seemed like they just wanted to push her along and free up some space. Her file said she needed an "experienced" owner and while I have experience with dogs, she's the first one I'm raising myself. I knew her issues, and while I've been overwhelmed a few times, I think it will work out.


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## gingerkid (Jul 11, 2012)

I think it might depend more on the rescue than the area, because there are rescues on both sides here. It is probably easiest to adopt from the humane society, but it is a form plus an interview. I don't know about dogs, but we had a difficult time adopting a kitten last Christmas through several of the rescues. I understand why they were hesitant - it was a gift for my Mom, who had been giving us not-so-subtle hints about wanting another cat - but both my sister and I were willing and able to care for the kitten in the event that Mom (for some unlikely reason) didn't want it, and were willing to sign legal agreements stating so. We eventually adopted the cutest kitten because the foster mom pointed out that if one of us adopted him, we would be his legal owners and the rescue would have no say over what we did with him after he was legally ours, so that's what we did.

Is it normal for there to be a ton of rescues all doing the same thing? None of the rescues that I know of in my area are breed specific (although they do exist because occasionally the humane society sends dogs to the breed rescues), and a lot of them have identical, or nearly identical policies. A lot of times I feel like there is so much redundancy in rescues around here, and yet all of the rescues need volunteers, funding, etc. constantly.... would they not have an easier time if they banded together? Especially given that most rescues share the same mission and don't focus on a specific breed or type...


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## VioletPrince (Jun 25, 2013)

I agree that the things you have to go through are really absurd at a lot of shelters, but I also understand why they do it, because of a story someone at a rescue shelter told me.

They adopted out a young golden retriever to a young family after seeing pictures of a big farmhouse with a barn and a field and stuff. It had lots of room for the dog, and the family seemed capable of caring for the dog ok, so they let them pick up the dog and they went on their merry way. However, the woman who let it happen kept having this really bad feeling. She decided to investigate her feeling, and when she went to the house and inspected the barn she saw in the picture, she found that they were running a dog-fighting ring and were keeping the golden in a tiny cage. Clearly, they intended to use him as bait. She grabbed him and took him back to the shelter, and after that, the shelter put in a mandatory house visit requirement.

It's been many years since I heard that story, so I probably have some details wrong, but honestly, the scenario in general sounds pretty reasonable to me.

I will say that some shelters need to tone it down, though... My parents adopted a dog recently, and when they were still looking for dogs, one of the forms they had to fill out was probably ten pages long and included questions such as, "How high are your yard's fences?" and, "What kind of wood are the fences made of?" and even, "What is your household's combined yearly salary?"


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## PragueRatter (Aug 6, 2013)

I agree with Violet Prince. Rescue dogs do end up in the wrong hands, especially greyhounds, lurcher's and pits but the majority of those that do end up in the wrong hands are because of rescue dog theft. Some people will go to great lengths to get a free baiting or poaching dog. The high walls and fences around these places are not only to keep the dogs in. They are specifically there to keep dog a thief out. Rescue dogs in Europe will cost at least 200 Euro and that in itself is a huge deterrent to poachers and those who have illegal fighting rings. 

We desperately wanted a Galaga and we were prepared to drive half way across Europe to get one but we didn't even get as far as an interview or home check. We were turned down because we live in an apartment, which is huge by the way and on 3 floors and within a fortified city where cars are forbidden. Not having a garden was a big red X from the Galaga adoption societies. No interview, no home check, just a 'thanks for applying but no thanks'.

I am home all day and my husband is more than happy to take the dog to work with him too. We have experience with the Galaga breed and fully understand the huge trauma that many of these dogs have gone through. We have proof of happy large dogs that we had for life, one being a rescue. 

The Galaga rescue centres are overflowing with dogs, some of which have been their for over two years. Whilst I can understand being overly protective, I can't understand why they turn so many people down without finding out more about them.


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## Kayota (Aug 14, 2009)

SDRRanger said:


> It's definitely easier to adopt from a pound/shelter as opposed to a rescue. I filled out an adoption form, they called my vet, and I did the 12hour round trip to pick him up. $125.00 later and had the best dog around (I might be biased lol)


I didn't even have to do all that, I walking in without ever calling, found the dog I had seen on Petfinder and set my heart on, paid $40 and left.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

The Humane Society where I got Chester required a basic application, proof of ID/age, vet's name if you'd had a cat or dog previously or currently, and landlord's permission if you rented. They did ask about yards and such but mainly to suggest dogs that might suit you. There was no blanket requirement for fencing etc. Some dogs were not safe for cats so if you had a cat, you'd be denied that dog but not all dogs. Same with small children- some dogs not good with little tiny ones but other dogs just fine. They reserved the right to do a home check within the first 6 months but I think that is only used if someone reports a problem or they have strong suspicions.

The rescue I foster with has a very good application and approval process I think. Home check required. The home check really is to the benefit of both dog and potential owner and any resident dogs/cats in the house. We take the dog to meet the people, help them do dog-dog introductions (which sometimes cancels an adoption when the dogs show obvious problems from the start, better to find out then in a safe and supervised manner), chat with the adopters and get a feel for any concerns or questions they might have and any red flags. Like there was one girl who wanted to adopt a VERY lively young pit. But the girl didn't want to walk more than 30 minutes a day and was planning to move several states away to an unknown apartment. Not a good match at all but it took an hour or so of conversation to figure this all out. We suggested she consider a lower energy breed at her new location and she was very happy with that solution. 
Or another time we had a great potential home, great family but they had cats (which we hadn't known about until arriving for the home check) and the cats and the dog we brought over were just NOT going to work out together. So they were steered towards cat-safe dogs.
Landlord permission if a renter, vet reference, and a reasonable contract complete the process. Everyone in the home needs to meet the dog and all the adults have to be on-board. No gift dogs or surprise dogs!!! That is a disaster waiting to happen or at minimum a quickly returned dog that we'd have to scramble for a foster/boarding spot for. 

I think some rescues go way overboard, some don't check people enough. But all rescues are run by people- usually busy people who have their own opinions on how the rescue world should work and who should have one of their dogs. That's their prerogative.


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## Luvlabs (Aug 21, 2013)

He is so cute! I adopted several dogs from Humane Society, and never had an issue. They came to visit my home, and approved me each time.
I totally agree that two dogs are better than one! I have 7! 
Maybe you had bad luck. Did you try Humane Society in your area? Or maybe it would be easier to adopt a dog a bit older, like 1 or 2?
Good luck!
Dominique


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## SaffronTea (Jun 4, 2013)

I am seeking to adopt in early September... getting worried I'll be denied. No other dogs, but I have a cat... and live in an apartment complex.


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## Abbylynn (Jul 7, 2011)

I went to a shelter/rescue. A rescue organization was involved with the dogs as well. I had seen Abbylynn's picture on Petfinder. I traveled two hours to meet her .. spoke to the people in charge for about an hour. They then brought Abbylynn out from the kennels in back of the institution to visit with me for a while. I signed a paper stating that she would never live outside and she would be returned to them if I ever needed to re-home her. I also signed papers for her to be transported to the Vet Tech Institute in PA for spaying and bloodwork. $100 dollars and 10 days later ... she was all mine!

They also guaranteed my funds would be returned if she were to die during or after ... from the surgery.

It was a great experience ... I wish rescues worked this way. 

Eddee came from a kill shelter. No questions asked. If you wanted a dog ... they were yours. First come ... first serve. He was $86 and that included the $50 for neuter at a clinic a couple hours away. If you did not use the form to go to the clinic to have him neutered you would lose your $50.


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## taquitos (Oct 18, 2012)

SaffronTea said:


> I am seeking to adopt in early September... getting worried I'll be denied. No other dogs, but I have a cat... and live in an apartment complex.


I doubt you'll be denied unless your apartment does not allow dogs 

I adopted my dog in January, and I rent and have two cats and a hedgehog at home  I was also fostering a leash reactive pit bull at the time.

Just get to know the adoption coordinators and the rescue  It really helps if you make a good impression on the fosters too (I have a lot of say in who gets to adopt/not adopt for my foster dogs).


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## Indigo (Mar 31, 2011)

I've had some very *very* bad experiences with trying to adopt... and I've worked at the humane society and fostered animals! Some rescues are just better than others and it can be hard to find a good one. You'll meet a lot of people looking for perfect homes that don't exist, and even if you do meet their high standards they won't believe you and will have to bother your vet, employer, landlord, and co workers for references. I think some of the "rescuers" actually have animal hording problems which is why they have such a hard time letting go.



Happyxix said:


> The only thing I slightly feared is that Spartacus might have a bad influence on the younger dog.


I'm interested to see how that turns out. Dogs do learn from each other and it can be a good or bad thing. My sister's puppy is always watching her adult dog. Since the adult is well behaved it's a good thing!


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## Amaryllis (Dec 28, 2011)

Honestly, I don't disagree with the OP being denied a puppy at this time. He's stated he's getting a puppy for his puppy, which is bad, and his well behaved puppy is 5 months old- so just about to hit those terrible teens. If I were running a rescue, I'd tell him to wait another year, then I'd be happy to help him find a dog (all else being equal.)

Sometimes what we want isn't what's best. It sucks to be told that, but there it is.


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## SaffronTea (Jun 4, 2013)

Thank you, taquitos! I've been worried... I applied at 1 place called Halo, and they never replied to it. My apartment does allow dogs, 1 year and older.

So many people having problems, is unnerving. I understand why they want to be careful, but when thousands of animals are being put down each day, why be so picky with owners? I understand wanting to do a home visit. I understand wanting to be sure all other pets are altered before introducing a new animal, to prevent any possibility of more unwanted puppies, but... I don't know.

I think it is hard, because 80% of the people on this forum that I have seen are honest, wonderful dog owners and potential dog owners. If I had a shelter, I would give dogs to any of us here, but... there is the other 20% who use harsh training like alpha training, or who don't want a dog, they want the ideal of a dog, or who are just going to leave it in a bad situation/abandon it/etc.


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## packetsmom (Mar 21, 2013)

SaffronTea said:


> I am seeking to adopt in early September... getting worried I'll be denied. No other dogs, but I have a cat... and live in an apartment complex.


Some rescues may decline you based on living in an apartment complex, but usually the cat will not be an issue as long as the dog you're looking to adopt is good with cats.

If you have problems with your local rescues, you may want to look at the local animal shelters as an alternative. High kill shelters, in particular, are often more flexible in their requirements AND you'd be definitely saving a life. Another option is to look for pets being rehomed, but that can take a lot of time and energy to find a dog that will fit your situation and whose owners are not asking a ridiculous fee or trying to hide major issues.

Good luck!


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## briteday (Feb 10, 2007)

In our area the humane society and SPCA used to do home visits and fence checks before you could take a dog home. The downturn in the economy stopped all that several years ago. Unfortunately, the commonly seen breeds at the shelters are now almost exclusively pits or pit mixes. I have nothing against the breed, however there are some very poorly bred/trained dogs and many rental properties here do not allow them. Occasionally the shelters make a run down to Las Vegas or So. Cal. and get a boatload of chihuahuas. And the shelters all spay/neuter every animal, will not release them until that is complete.

Breeders are few and far between here. However, we did get our last two dogs, papillons from a breeder. Those were pretty expensive dogs and most breeders will keep the pups until abut 4 months of age or until they can determine that the pup is pet quality, not show material. We've had many happy years with them, but...$$$.

So this time we went with your basic mutt off Craigslist. The family was asking a reasonable re-homing fee, the litter looked to be well taken care of (no vet visits, vax, etc though), and we have kept in touch with the family...even sending their kids updated pictures. We get to choose when the dog is spayed, avoid any bad habits acquired from shelter life, and start training on our terms/time. I would not say that adopting a 4-week old pup is optimal, but they would have been taken to the shelter the next day due to the bitch having medical problems and the family did not have the resources and time to foster the litter. So we scooped her up, brought her home, and our remaining elderly papillon has done a fine job of socializing and potty training the newbie! That being said, we would never have undertaken this particular adoption had we not fostered many litters for the humane society over the last 10 years. We are very familiar with feeding/pottying every two hours 24/7, bottle and tube feedings, socialization, etc.

In your case I see several red flags that would be picked up by various rescues in our area. Again, YOU should want the dog as an additional pet...not as a companion for your current dog. Your current dog may not even care that the other dog lives in the same house. Years ago we adopted a second dog (spaniel mix) to keep our 1-year old boder collie x whippet busy. BAD IDEA!!!! Instead of having one problem, then we had two. The BC was still bored out of her mind while we were at work all day, jumping the fence to escape our yard most days and spending the afternoons visiting our retired neighbors who fed her all kinds of treats! And we had never seen many BC's where we grew up, but they are very popular where we live now. We had no idea what we were getting into with that puppy from the shelter, we adopted her at 8 weeks old. Then a year later we adopted the 1-year old spaniel mix. She preferred to dig her way out every day. Back in the days before electric fencing packages available now, the only choice we had was to fill in each hole she made with concrete. Home Depot loved us and we now have a perimeter of concrete under the fence around most of our property. Thank goodness we discovered crate training and after a few years things settled down...a few YEARS! The other flag about your current dog is that you are approaching the times when expenses can be pretty steep for a while. Most people tend to do puppy obedience classes, spay/neuter, buy bigger crates/more supplies as their dog approaches full size...right about the age your dog is now. Our local rescues might question whether you can afford all of the care/needs for your current dog and add an additional dog that may need vaccinations, speutering, de-worming. If you are renting that would be another flag for more than one dog. And really, IMHO, your 5-month old needs you now to learn how to be a really great adult dog. These are critical months. I consider a dog to be a puppy until 2-3 years of age. He is just beginning to bond with you and feel secure in your care. let him enjoy that for a while. If you still have adrenaline left over after caring for your current dog then there are always additional training outlets like agility or obedience.

Another flag...have you ever had a multi-dog household before? Two is not the same as one.

I'm not saying that adopting a second puppy is wrong for everyone, but I can see how a rescue or shelter would be able to find applicants that they consider more appropriate. There are a lot of people out there who want the chance for their first dog. And maybe the rescues are just saying that you should think a bit more about your reasons and the answers you are providing.


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## Happyxix (Aug 18, 2013)

Amaryllis said:


> Honestly, I don't disagree with the OP being denied a puppy at this time. He's stated he's getting a puppy for his puppy, which is bad, and his well behaved puppy is 5 months old- so just about to hit those terrible teens. If I were running a rescue, I'd tell him to wait another year, then I'd be happy to help him find a dog (all else being equal.)
> 
> Sometimes what we want isn't what's best. It sucks to be told that, but there it is.


Well if you were the rescue I'll be perfectly happy with that response. I rather be given a logically explanation then a few no callbacks and a neuter excuse.

The shelter here are mostly Chihuahua or pit mixes which I had no interest in. Also you won't really know a dog's personality at a shelter and I am not knowledgeable enough to deal with a tough cases especially with another dog around.

The new dog is primarily for my girlfriend who lives with me. Spartacus have a closer bond with me and my girlfriend misses her two dogs back at home where her mom loves them and refuses to let go with them. I do want a future playmate for Spartacus and that is primarily the reason why I agreed on taking in another dog. We aren't the worst candidates either. Spartacus have everything paid for in advance (including neutering which was discounted if I got it with the puppy package at our vet). He have his small crate and puppy food left from when he was 9 weeks old. My girlfriend have a long history of owning a dog. I have a long history of owning guinea pigs (not really relevant but I thought it added some cuteness factor on the adoption application). We don't have a yard but I walk or have Spartacus play with a neighbor's dog everyday. Besides a small pop for pull correction on the leash, everything else is positive reinforcements (I could lie about not using leash pops but I wanted to be honest).

I figure what I put down will be ideal but nope nothing happened.


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## SaffronTea (Jun 4, 2013)

Thank you, packetsmom! I'll definitely be checking out kill shelters! I do know I want to save a life, I just don't want the guilt trip if I end up not choosing one of their dogs "it's a shame, they'll be put to sleep..." etc.

I'm trying to keep reminding myself that regardless which dog I take, or how long it takes to find it, I will be saving one, and it doesn't make sense to take one that's not the right one, because it might be put down, when the right one might be put down, too.


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## ireth0 (Feb 11, 2013)

SaffronTea said:


> Thank you, packetsmom! I'll definitely be checking out kill shelters! I do know I want to save a life, I just don't want the guilt trip if I end up not choosing one of their dogs "it's a shame, they'll be put to sleep..." etc.
> 
> I'm trying to keep reminding myself that regardless which dog I take, or how long it takes to find it, I will be saving one, and it doesn't make sense to take one that's not the right one, because it might be put down, when the right one might be put down, too.


Keep in mind you could actually be saving 2! The one that you end up adopting will make space for another dog to come in!


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## SaffronTea (Jun 4, 2013)

AH! A good point, ireth0

Happyxix, I have a guide on how to pick a dog from a shelter, if that might help you? Don't forget that many rescues just take dogs from shelters who were about to be put down, or who they thought were highly adoptable. The shelter around me is so busy they put down any/all dogs that come in if the owners say there were problems which would make them hard to re-home... so you may end up fine! I've adopted from shelters in the past (well, my parent shave adopted them for me) and never had a problem with the animal.

Here's the guide I've made up form advice on the forum and research:
Looking For a Shelter Dog
•	Make a list of all the shelters within around 3 hours of your location.
•	Check their websites. If all dogs on a particular shelter’s website are described the same way (sweet, friendly, loving) then the shelter probably doesn’t know the personalities of their dogs very well, or chooses not to be forthcoming with the information. This would be a good shelter to avoid.
•	Contact the shelters on your list and ask about their return policy. A good shelter will always accept any dog as a return that they have adopted out at any time in his life, for whatever reason the owner may be unable to keep him. You should not expect a refund if you must return your dog, but shelters that refuse to take a dog back after 30 days (or whatever time limit) are not accepting full responsibility for the lives that pass through their hands.
•	Ask the shelters about their adoption procedures. You will want to be able to visit with your prospective new family member outside of the kennel. If that is not allowed by a shelter, cross that one off your list.
•	Ask the shelters about their criteria for making dogs available for adoption. Good shelters do temperament testing, and do not make dogs available who have a prior history of biting. Some dogs are not appropriate for our human society. A shelter who places all dogs up for adoption and never euthanizes is doing a disservice to potential adopters. Don’t go to such a shelter.
•	Sit in on a dog training class (or several). Find a trainer you like, who is kind to dogs and motivates them with treats, toys, and praise. (A selection of trainers from across the country is available from the APDT Trainer Locator at www.apdt.com.) Ask the instructor for good shelter referrals. If there are students in the class with shelter dogs, ask them which shelter they adopted from and what their experiences were. Avoid shelters where others have had negative experiences.
•	When you do start visiting shelters, look beyond a slick exterior. A good shelter is made up by people who care, and the good dogs in their kennels. There are lots of old, rundown, dark and damp shelters that have great dogs and are staffed by wonderful people, and there are others that are just as wretched as they look. There are also bright, pretty, high-tech modern shelters that treat people and animals well, and still others that are all window-dressing, forgetting to treat their human and canine clients with compassion.
•	Although it’s best to avoid preconceptions about what model of dog you are looking for, Sternberg advises that it is very important to know what to look for behaviorally. ‘A high level of sociability will contribute more to a dog’s success in a home than any other trait, Sternberg says. ‘Overall, be looking for a dog that really likes people and wants to be with them, who is affectionate, congenial, and bonds easily and strongly. These are the dogs who are most fun, and the least worry to live with.
•	As you enter the shelter, get a reading on the attitude of staff and volunteers. Are you greeted warmly and treated well? If you are asked to fill out a questionnaire, are the interviewers genuinely interested in who you are and helping you find the right dog, or are you grilled like a criminal? Any concerns about your answers should be used to help educate, not condemn you. If you feel like you are getting the thumbscrews and third-degree, leave. It would be almost impossible to concentrate on your task in an environment like this. 
•	When you enter the kennels, make a quick pass through without stopping to schmooze the dogs. Pen and paper in hand, make note of any dogs that stand out for you. Ideally, you might find four or five who do. 
•	On your second pass-through, stop and visit with each of the dogs you noted. Put your hand up to the kennel wire or bars. The dog should readily come up to visit you and sniff your hand. Remember, these dogs are socially deprived, and should be seeking your attention. When a candidate sniffs your hand, tell him he’s a good dog, and move your hand back and forth, slowly, several times, about five inches each way. A social dog will follow your hand. Remember, you want a social dog a well-socialized, outgoing, and friendly dog is the least liable to be aggressive. If the dog jumps at your faces, barks at you, lunges or, alternatively clings to or retreats to the back of the kennel, cross him off your list and move on to the next dog. 
•	When you have identified the dogs on your list who are very social, take them out of their kennels one at a time, to a quiet room if possible. (Not all shelters can provide this luxury. Do the best you can find a relatively quiet corner somewhere.) Stand with the dog for five minutes, and totally ignore him. The dog should look at you in a warm way, and try to worm his way into your affections leaning on you, nudging, licking, trying to cuddle. Jumping up is okay if it is done as attention-seeking, not in an attempt to bowl you off your feet as he bounces away from you. If an employee is with you and the dog is seeking attention from the employee, that’s okay it just means the dog has already formed a bond with that person. If in five minutes the dog shows little or no interest in you or in other humans who are with you, put him back. He is not a good candidate. 
•	If he is very social, pet him slowly and gently down his back. He should stand still and enjoy this, or lean into you, seeking more contact. If he shakes you off after you’ve touched him (‘Yuck, people cooties!) or moves or lunges away from your touch, he’s telling you he doesn’t like being petted, or being around you. This dog is at risk for being aggressive anytime people touch him in a way that offends him. Put him back. 
•	If the dog is still with you, your next step is to pet him all over. He should actively enjoy being petted, perhaps wag his tail, even lick you. He should not mouth you, even gently. If he does, put him away. Mouthiness, even done gently, is a sign of resistance, and may escalate to a bite if someone, such as a child, ignores the sign and keeps on petting or touching. 
•	Now take out a toy (that you brought with you for this purpose, or one that the shelter provides, if they prefer) and see if he will play some sort of game with you: fetch, tug-o-war, or chase. Play the game for three to four minutes enough to get him excited and aroused. Then abruptly stop the play, and put the toy up, preferably on a shelf where he can see it. Take note of how long it takes him to disengage from playing and return to you to settle and socialize, perhaps sit or lie down next to you. Ideally, he will do this within two minutes. If he is still aroused after five minutes, put him away. This is the kind of energy level that the average dog household is not equipped to deal with. (If, on the other hand, you are looking for the next World Frisbee or Agility Champion, he might be a candidate.) 
•	Take the dog for a walk on leash, outside if possible. Don’t worry if he pulls, or is very distracted these are behaviors that are normal for shelter dogs, and can be retrained. Do watch for aggressive behavior toward other dogs or people while he is on leash. If you see any, put him away and cross him off your list. 
•	If this dog is still on your list when your walk is done, have a staff person put him back in his kennel, then watch him as other strangers pass by, especially children, big men, and anyone who moves or dresses oddly. Avoid a dog who barks or lunges at anyone who walks by this is a sign of inadequate socialization. If your dog will be around children, look for a dog who wants to greet passing children first. A dog who will live with children must worship little humans, not just tolerate them.
•	The eyes and nose should be clear and clean, not red or runny.
•	The puppy's coat should be clear and shiny.
•	Check the puppy's belly. All pups tend to be a little potbellied when they have a full tummy, but a puppy with a noticeably swollen belly has a good chance of harboring worms.
•	Check for discharge from the rear end and chronic coughing and sneezing.
QUESTIONS TO ASK
•	Get a complete history of the animal that you are considering. 
•	Age (although, sometimes there is no way for the shelter to know for sure), breed, gender
•	Where the dog came from
•	What his previous living situation was
•	His medical history
•	How he's behaved since being at the shelter
•	Does the dog have any ongoing medical issues (cancer, diabetes, intestinal parasites, heartworms, etc.), and is the dog is on any medication
•	What follow up services the shelter provides, such as obedience training, consultation for behavioral problems, medical services


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## taquitos (Oct 18, 2012)

SaffronTea said:


> Thank you, taquitos! I've been worried... I applied at 1 place called Halo, and they never replied to it. My apartment does allow dogs, 1 year and older.
> 
> So many people having problems, is unnerving. I understand why they want to be careful, but when thousands of animals are being put down each day, why be so picky with owners? I understand wanting to do a home visit. I understand wanting to be sure all other pets are altered before introducing a new animal, to prevent any possibility of more unwanted puppies, but... I don't know.
> 
> I think it is hard, because 80% of the people on this forum that I have seen are honest, wonderful dog owners and potential dog owners. If I had a shelter, I would give dogs to any of us here, but... there is the other 20% who use harsh training like alpha training, or who don't want a dog, they want the ideal of a dog, or who are just going to leave it in a bad situation/abandon it/etc.


As a foster home for a rescue I can say that there are some serious crazy people applying for dogs at rescues. Also, the harsh training, crappy food, etc. is way more common here than 20%. I would say 50-60% (if not more) dog owners (future dog owners as well) are just really clueless about stuff like this. I also work at a pet boutique and you have no idea how many people are just completely unaware of other methods of training, food, etc.

It also doesn't help that a lot of rescues are people with good intentions, but no background in dog training or anything. I had a great owner adopt my last foster who was a bit more difficult because she was/is leash reactive. The trainer they provided her with was this awful guy who believes in all the CM stuff. He made her worse in the few short months that he trained with her. When I reached out to her, she only then learned about positive reinforcement training. I worked with her and now Gotty even has a mastiff buddy in her neighborhood and the owners is working hard to work on her leash reactivity with positive methods  So yeah... I mean even people who are approved can sometimes be clueless.

But yeah. I would have totally been refused by a bunch of rescues, even if I am (well at least I like to think so) a very responsible pet owner with tons of experience... and it would literally be because of two things -- 1) I am a full time university student with only a part time job and 2) I rent (even though my landlord is awesome with pets and doesn't mind at all that we have 6 animals living in our place lol!)


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## Meghanzord (Aug 18, 2013)

Wow, I wish I had Saffron Tea's list when I went to the shelter to get my dog. I love her and don't plan on giving her back (and am willing to put in the work), but there are definitely some things on there she did (and others she didn't). She's gotten a hundred times better but I still wish I had been better educated.

Sent from Petguide.com Free App


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## SaffronTea (Jun 4, 2013)

taquitos, you make a good point. I've heard horror stories and found people who still feed the cheapest pet food they can. I know a boy whose dog is dying because they fed such cheap kibble that the poor animals' teeth rotted and are infected and such. They're not brushing the dog's teeth daily, but the fact that they let it get to that point just shows how uneducated people are... Even the Guide Dogs for The Blind were having us feed Iams to all the puppies. And I ran into a woman the other week who was searching for food for her cat in the grocery store, was told Science Diet and I informed her that really wasn't the best food, and how to tell what the best type was... budget is a restriction I understand, but you can still make sure you get the best for your money, rather than just whatever is on sale.

I know growing up, my dad did it like that. Whatever was on sale. Of course, he's a terrible man so I've learned better, but I remember wanting Gravy Train because they made it LOOK tasty, and the bright colorful Benaful, because the dog in their commercial is so cute and the whole "you love the taste, but it's good for you, too" message... then found out they're using artificial dyes! It's a research thing... I personally believe they should offer classes in elementary school, or something, teaching people basics on pet ownership, so that it stops the "this is how my father did it, and his father, and his father" etc... Or even people like CM! Who, until I found this forum, I thought was the right method. Guide Dogs for The Blind had us use positive and negative training together, maany years ago...

I think positive training needs to be out there more. Kikopup has so few views on her youtube page, when you consider her level of experience and her high success rate! I am making dog collars/tags/leashes now and on each one I am attaching little cards that'll give training tips, link to Kikopup, and this forum to help people who have pets get more involved with them. Dog ownership should never be a "simple" thing. You should not get a dog because you are bored. Or because it's the "ideal" to have a kid and a puppy... 

Meghanzord, I am so nervous about this dog, in an excited type of way, that I'm researching like mad... I even have some DVD's coming all about adopting a dog. I know in my current situation, living in an apartment and having a pet cat already, I cannot take the risk of ending up with an animal who isn't exactly what I need, because with apartments I can only have the 2 animals, and have no plans on ever returning an animal. I'm glad you told me about your experience, though, I love hearing that she is doing better.


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## Willowy (Dec 10, 2007)

Kayota said:


> I didn't even have to do all that, I walking in without ever calling, found the dog I had seen on Petfinder and set my heart on, paid $40 and left.


Heh, me too, when I got Toby from a city shelter. Oh, they did look at my Drivers License to make sure I was over 18, and made me sign a paper promising to have him neutered (because that shelter was in Iowa and it's a state law). That was all! And they sent $75 of the $80 adoption fee back after I mailed in proof of neuter.


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## Meghanzord (Aug 18, 2013)

SaffronTea said:


> Meghanzord, I am so nervous about this dog, in an excited type of way, that I'm researching like mad... I even have some DVD's coming all about adopting a dog. I know in my current situation, living in an apartment and having a pet cat already, I cannot take the risk of ending up with an animal who isn't exactly what I need, because with apartments I can only have the 2 animals, and have no plans on ever returning an animal. I'm glad you told me about your experience, though, I love hearing that she is doing better.


Unfortunately, it took a turn for the worse today and I had to return her to the shelter. I'm absolutely heartbroken, but that's all been described on another thread.

Keep researching. Take your time and don't let a shelter push a dog onto you (I don't feel like the shelter I went to did this). Knowledge is the best chew toy, and I wish I had had more of it.


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## SaffronTea (Jun 4, 2013)

That is so sad... I'm so sorry you had to  It instills to me the reason I have to be so careful, because I don't want to know the pain you must be going through.

Hopefully, if you get another dog in the future you'll be better prepared, and able to select a dog that won't have the same issues.


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