# Getting my dog interested in toys?



## Seizure1990 (Oct 6, 2012)

I just adopted a 2 year old dog, probably a lab/pitt mix. He's actually shockingly well behaved and trained for a shelter dog, but there are still some quirks about him I haven't quite figured out. One of them being that I'm not sure how to effectively occupy him while he is alone.

So far, it seems like he loves only two things above all else: people, and food. He will do his best to find a room with someone else in it, even if they're paying him no mind so long as he can snooze nearby, and if I stuff his kong with a treat or peanut butter, he goes nuts with it!

I've tried spreading peanut butter over his chew toys to get him interested, but as soon as he's licked it all off, he loses all interest in it again, and the same goes for his kong. He'll occasionally go back to the kong for a few licks, but not much, and not even that if I've just cleaned it.

This wouldn't bother me so much, except that he sometimes has to spend quite a few hours alone, and while I'm definitely spending most of my free time at home until he is adjusted and loses his separation anxiety, I'd like to reach the point where I can spend a day or weekend away from the house and arrange someone to walk and play with him three times a day.

As I understand it, toys are crucial to this. Or are some dogs content to just sleep until their caretaker returns? Should I not worry about this?

I should add that once so far, I caught him sniffing and possibly nibbling or chewing on my belt. I quickly told him to stop and I haven't seen him pay any mind to it since, but I've also noticed that when he gets particularly playful, he starts play-biting so I'm sure he has some need to chew in him. How to direct that towards his toys, and not whatever object he happens to like?

Thanks for the help guys!


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## Amaryllis (Dec 28, 2011)

A lot of it is just time. It's normal for a rescue to be too stressed to play for 2-6 weeks. It's also possible that he was seriously discouraged from chewing, so now he won't chew anything at all. 

It took about 6 weeks before kabota would chew anything, then he chewed everything, now he chews his toys and the occasional underwear if I'm silly enough to leave them out. 

So I'd just give him time and love.


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## Seizure1990 (Oct 6, 2012)

Thanks very much for the advice and encouragement. Am I on the right track with putting PB on his toys, or is that pointless?


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## Canyx (Jul 1, 2011)

Yep, most new dogs with a healthy appetite and not as traumatic a past are obsessed with food and attention. It makes sense; they don't know a schedule yet so they don't know when the next meal will be. And they just moved into a new home so they don't want to lose these new people. My new dog also had just these two interests and nothing else. I made her interested in toys by rewarding her with food (her primary motivator!) every time she touched or interacted with a toy. As to following you around, as he gets used to his new home and falls into a schedule it will help with that.


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## Seizure1990 (Oct 6, 2012)

I figured that his separation anxiety and how darn excited he gets when he knows he's about to be fed have to do with his current anxiety and uncertainty, but it's interesting to hear how it goes to a point where they eclipse even the desire to play.

So are you saying that to modify my current training method, I should spread peanut butter over the toy, toss it across the room for him to lick, and then when he does so, walk over and pet him and tell him he's a good boy? Because unless food is involved in the first place, he shows absolutely zero inclination to the toys, giving me no opportunity to reward him with treats.


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## CptJack (Jun 3, 2012)

I hate to be the Debbie Downer here, but while I would strongly encourage you to give your new guy time - and expect him to loosen up a LOT from that, and start to have more FUN-

Some dogs just don't play. At least not in a traditional way that involves scampering about with toys. A treat dispensing toy is a good idea, maybe? Beyond that time, consistency and patience. Reward what you want, ignore what you don't. He'll get there.


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## Canyx (Jul 1, 2011)

Seizure1990 said:


> I figured that his separation anxiety and how darn excited he gets when he knows he's about to be fed have to do with his current anxiety and uncertainty,


Possible. And what CaptJack says is true too.

If he gets excited about being fed why not use his food to teach him to like toys, put it in a treat dispensing toy, or train him with it? And I'm not talking crazy strict training... settling in is most important now. But you want to cement the behaviors you want before he gets totally used to things and starts taking more liberties  You can use his food to teach him to settle in. 

For example, my new dog Sumic followed me everywhere and I find that annoying. So I started throwing kibble on a dog bed in a different room. Soon enough, when I was sitting down in the kitchen and being very boring on my computer, she would go by herself into the other room and settle on the bed, because that's where she's been most heavily rewarded. Then I would calmly walk over, drop more kibble, and go back to being boring. To me, _this_ is still training.
I also don't like it when dogs get crazy about a food bowl; I don't want jumping and spinning and barking when I'm dishing out the rations. But you know when Sumic DOES get excited? When I'm about to leave the house. Because that's the only time she gets 'free' food. She'll jump and spin and go straight into her crate, and I leave her with hollow toys that I stuff kibble, edible chew items, and other goodies into.

Sounds like you have the perfect dog for the NILIF (Nothing In Life Is Free) technique


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## Amaryllis (Dec 28, 2011)

I love how different owners are so different! I love being followed around by a dog, so I trained Kabota to follow me around by offering him lots of treats for doing so. I do have to agree with you about crazy jumping at meal times, though, that's obnoxious.

I like the PB on the toys idea. I rubbed hot dogs on the toys. Are you clicker training yet? If not, get a clicker. That way, you can click/treat any interaction with toys. (And c/t anything you like, such as sitting patiently or looking at your face for direction.) Kikopup on Youtube has great videos on using a clicker to modify behavior.

Also, make sure your dog likes the type of toy you have. Some dogs love stuffed toys, some love softer rubber, some love hard rubber. Get a variety (even at the Dollar Store) and watch what he prefers to interact with. Then get more of those.


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## Canyx (Jul 1, 2011)

Different strokes indeed!

I highly recommend clicker training as well. Though I would like to add that depending on the dog, a 'click' might be really exciting once they get used to clicker training. For calm behaviors, like chilling on the dog bed, I know a click would cause at least Sumic to jump up and anticipate the reward. So in certain situations I still prefer to use my voice, or just reward without saying anything.


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## Amaryllis (Dec 28, 2011)

Canyx said:


> Different strokes indeed!
> 
> I highly recommend clicker training as well. Though I would like to add that depending on the dog, a 'click' might be really exciting once they get used to clicker training. For calm behaviors, like chilling on the dog bed, I know a click would cause at least Sumic to jump up and anticipate the reward. So in certain situations I still prefer to use my voice, or just reward without saying anything.


These days, Kabota's reaction to seeing the clicker is "ARE WE TRAINING?! I LOVE TRAINING!!!", but it took a long time to get there. Unfortunately, he's just not into praise. I had a dog that would work for praise. That makes for an easy dog to live with.


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## Seizure1990 (Oct 6, 2012)

Maxi here is the type that follows me around with no training needed. Luckily, I'm quite happy with this. It also makes it easier to keep an eye on him, hehe.

Clicker training seems interesting, I'll read more into it. And he's slowly warming up to his toys - today, he was getting particularly frisky during his belly rub, and while he was play-biting and gnawing at my hand (very softly) I took his kong and just pushed it into his mouth. I had tried that once before, but I guess it took some time and a second try to stick. But now he seems much more happy to chew on it.


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## Seizure1990 (Oct 6, 2012)

Hey guys, I tried an edible nylabone today, and he literally ate the entire thing in under 5 minutes... the clerk said they were supposed to last months. Should I be worried?

Also, what the hell am I supposed to do about getting him a chew toy he can go to while im alone and not around to fill up his kong? He's starting to bite while he plays and I need to nip this in the bud.


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## Nuclear_Glitter (Jun 20, 2012)

When your dog is alone he's most likely sleeping. You can stuff the kong with peanut butter, treats, and spray cheese (and anything else you want) then freeze it and that will entertain him for about an hour, then he will probably sleep. You can offer a variety of toys, such as stuffed animals, balls that are large enough to not get lodged in his throat, chews, and ropes, just in case he gets bored. 

Also, I wouldn't be worried about the edible nylabone. The ones that aren't edible last SUPER long, but the edible ones don't last as long, at least for me. I would definitely recommend treat toys that you stuff and freeze, and puzzle treat toys. Tug-a-Jug's are pretty good from what I hear. You can even put their meals into treat toys so they have to stay interested in toys and work for their food.

ETA: You may also want to crate him when you're away. He may not be completely house trust worthy. Just a thought, of course


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## Canyx (Jul 1, 2011)

He should be fine regarding the nylabone; just keep an eye on him and don't give him any more. I really only give edible nylabones to puppies because more often than not, adults just rip off pieces and swallow. They usually digest it pretty well, but mine has also thrown up the pieces too.
Try bully sticks and antlers. And don't worry; he doesn't need something to do every second that you're gone. Most people just give their dogs special chews or stuffed kongs as they're leaving, and it occupies the dog for a good 15-30 minutes. After that, a well adjusted dog would sleep (and drink some water, perhaps).


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## Seizure1990 (Oct 6, 2012)

Canyx said:


> He should be fine regarding the nylabone; just keep an eye on him and don't give him any more. I really only give edible nylabones to puppies because more often than not, adults just rip off pieces and swallow. They usually digest it pretty well, but mine has also thrown up the pieces too.
> Try bully sticks and antlers. And don't worry; he doesn't need something to do every second that you're gone. Most people just give their dogs special chews or stuffed kongs as they're leaving, and it occupies the dog for a good 15-30 minutes. After that, a well adjusted dog would sleep (and drink some water, perhaps).


That's exactly what he did with his nylabone...

He finished the bully stick in a couple minutes too. This guy is a chewing, eating machine. But yea, he seems to sleep a lot too... it's just that I feel bad, because at times he really does get playful, and I can tell he wants to have some fun, but his idea of "fun" is wrestling with me and biting. That will obviously not work, and I need to put a stop to it.

On the other hand, I can't let him off leash yet to really run around. I want him to have a chance to really burn off some energy, is all.

What I will say is that for a little bit, i was playing tug-of-war with him with a toy i bought, but it wasn't long before he ripped it apart. It was a piece of rope tied around stuffed cotton, and once it unraveled, he was only interested in chewing up the cotton, which isn't going to work either, and he doesn't care to play with the rope anymore. I feel like there's something I'm missing, and that if I can figure out what he wants, or how to train him into playing with toys/me, it will be better for everyone. I won't be put into the situation of dealing with a dog that is liable to bite people when he plays, and I'll have a dog that isn't bored.


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## Canyx (Jul 1, 2011)

Sounds like my dog when he chews, and plays tug. 
I think your dog would really love training. That would really tire him out too. 
Teach him to 'drop' or 'give' the toy for a treat so you can end the game on your terms before he destroys the toy. Another idea is to have multiples of the same toy. If Soro isn't chasing it or tugging it, the next step is destroying it. But once he gets, say, a sqeaky ball and he sees that I have one too, he immediately drops his and wants mine. That way you can continously swap and prevent him from focusing on one and destryoing it. Of course, if your dog has resource guarding issues this isn't a good idea.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

You've gotten good advice above, so here's just my two cents-
for one, don't stress about toys. Some dogs like toys, some dogs ignore all toys, most like some and not others. Labs and Pits are strong chewers so 9 times out of 10 if the store says "long lasting" is means 10 minutes  The souper Nylabones and the black Kongs are the only things I will leave available to the pitties when they are alone. 

My own dog has never taken an interest in toys. No chewing (unless there's food in it), no fetch, minimal to no tug, and just basically he doesn't care to "play" so it is possible for a dog not to like toys even well after the adjustment period of about 4 months (from a shelter situation). Mine's a hound though so he has other obsessions (squirrels....) 

For interactive play, I find most of the pits like tug using a rope (only a sturdy rope, nothing fluffy) and fetch with a tennis ball. I pick up old tennis balls from the courts for free (I do play tennis, and yes, people leave the balls there when they lose the right movement/spring). A flirt pole (like a cat toy scaled up) gets them leaping and jumping and chasing.

The best thing I found for the play biting problem is taking away attention. ALL fun goes away as soon as teeth touch skin. You might stand there still or leave the room but nothing interesting happens, no attention either positive OR negative to the dog for say, 20 second. Then back to play and repeat as needed. Feed meals by hand and teach the dog to take treats and food without touching teeth to skin (teeth touch, hold away food, dog calms, give food piece by piece).


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## Nuclear_Glitter (Jun 20, 2012)

I would recommend a flirt pole, and a 50 foot leash. My pitbull can be VERY high energy, but I also can't let him off leash as he's a bolter. So I attach a 50 foot leash to a metal pole that in our ground (clothes line we don't use) by running the clip through the handle hole, around the pole and then attach it to his collar so we can play. I don't have a flirt pole yet but we have a cat flirt pole he chases and jumps after and LOVES. We also play chase this way, with a Cuz ball, or another toy. 

I have to say being able to use the 50 foot leash in the yard and run around with my dogs is a HUGE help for me. Both my dogs have buttloads of energy and aren't good off leash, so it's a win-win. 

Then of course walk everyday, twice a day if you can, for 45 minutes at a time, train through out the day and teach new things. The next thing I wanna teach my dogs is to herd large balls (you can search it on youtube). It's an actual sport that I think was developed in Germany. You just have to find stuff that you can do to keep him entertained whenever you're home with him.


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## Seizure1990 (Oct 6, 2012)

Nuclear_Glitter said:


> I would recommend a flirt pole, and a 50 foot leash. My pitbull can be VERY high energy, but I also can't let him off leash as he's a bolter. So I attach a 50 foot leash to a metal pole that in our ground (clothes line we don't use) by running the clip through the handle hole, around the pole and then attach it to his collar so we can play. I don't have a flirt pole yet but we have a cat flirt pole he chases and jumps after and LOVES. We also play chase this way, with a Cuz ball, or another toy.
> 
> I have to say being able to use the 50 foot leash in the yard and run around with my dogs is a HUGE help for me. Both my dogs have buttloads of energy and aren't good off leash, so it's a win-win.
> 
> Then of course walk everyday, twice a day if you can, for 45 minutes at a time, train through out the day and teach new things. The next thing I wanna teach my dogs is to herd large balls (you can search it on youtube). It's an actual sport that I think was developed in Germany. You just have to find stuff that you can do to keep him entertained whenever you're home with him.


That's great advice except I don't have a backyard, just a 5-foot leash law ;P

He was starting to like his Kong, but then it got lost in my brother's room... It was the smaller red one though, not the black one. I was getting nervous about it too, but at Shell's advice, I guess I'll definitely switch to a black one anyways.

Argh, so much money wasted on "toys" that either do nothing for Maxi, or are gone in 5 minutes! I can't wait till this situation is settled.


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## Nil (Oct 25, 2007)

Seizure1990 said:


> That's great advice except I don't have a backyard, just a 5-foot leash law ;P


What about a harness and long line (the 50 foot line Nuclear_Glitter mentioned)? Take him to an open area (park, field, etc.) and put him on a harness and long line. It really does help a lot. In my experience, even where there are leash laws (6ft or under) if I have my dog on a harness and long line and am in control of my dog and out of the way (not bothering people) I don't get any problems. This is especially true if I am actively training my dog (doing recalls, sits, stays, downs, etc.). But if it is more strict there then I could understand.


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## Shell (Oct 19, 2009)

Nil said:


> What about a harness and long line (the 50 foot line Nuclear_Glitter mentioned)? Take him to an open area (park, field, etc.) and put him on a harness and long line. It really does help a lot. In my experience, even where there are leash laws (6ft or under) if I have my dog on a harness and long line and am in control of my dog and out of the way (not bothering people) I don't get any problems. This is especially true if I am actively training my dog (doing recalls, sits, stays, downs, etc.). But if it is more strict there then I could understand.


Same here. I use a 50 ft leash from here; not advertising this particular leash or anything, I just really like the bright orange color that says "hey look, my dog is leashed!" and the nylon is pretty soft on my hands. A horse lunge line also makes a good long lead- very sturdy since they are meant to hold a 1500 lbs horse.
I have even been stopped by the police (who just wanted to know what I was doing) and been told basically, hey it is cool you are training your dog, we like trained dogs.

But you have to know your area and how crowded things are, if you don't have space to avoid ALL people and dogs for 30 or 40 feet, then you don't want to be using a long line.


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## Nuclear_Glitter (Jun 20, 2012)

Well, you can always do the ball herding inside. If your dog has some sort of "job" then he will be pretty entertained. If you have a decent length hallway, and nothing the dog can run over, you can toss a ball down the hallway for it to get. 

Nose work, like playing hide and seek with food is also a good way to keep 'em entertained. Like said above, your dog may just not care about toys. You just gotta find different, fun things to do instead.


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