# I hate walking my dog.



## Zr. (Aug 28, 2008)

My dog needs more exercise but walking her is a nightmare.

She's a leash biter; well more like a leash attacker. For a little bit she'll be perfectly fine. A little while ago I walked her down to a gas station with my mum. She did fine the way there, we worked on her heal and had her sit at the cross walk and she did great. But then mum went in the store and I waited outside. She still did great, which was really encouraging with her separation anxiety.

Well when my mum came out of the store Dandi got excited of course. Then she started attacking the leash, complete with vicious growls, tugging, jumping on my for leverage to pull and trying to bite my hands. This continued the entire walk home.

She's being doing this since we got her and though it did improve for a little while I've figured out that it only improved because she was more focused on getting her halti off than biting the leash. Every time she's excited she does this. When we get out of the car she attacks the leash, when we start down the driveway after a walk she attacks the leash, when she sees a dog she can't go play with she attacks the leash. Just walking doesn't stop her; I have to physically drag her with the leash. I've tried getting her to sit and she does, but starts again a few seconds after. I can't find a way to stop her from attacking the leash (or my sleeves and hands).

Since we switched from the halti to the prong collar she's started again. We can't go back to the halti because she was scratching her face up to try and get it off, and the prong does work for her pulling and training. But I can't even walk her. I can't have her act like that walking up the driveway; we've already gotten numerous complaints about her (that's a long story, she hasn't actually done anything wrong to deserve those complaints) and I don't want anyone reporting her or something for being 'vicious', which I know will happen if certain people in this complex see her acting this way.

Any ideas on how to help this behaviour? Should I start walking with a toy to distract and redirect her?


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## MegaMuttMom (Sep 15, 2007)

Well, we went through a phase like this and I soaked his leash in bitter apple. That worked. When he was older and started it again, I would just stop and stand still until he settled down enough for me to ask for a sit. Since he is even better trained now, I use the command "leave it".


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## Chels_girl (Aug 2, 2008)

I like the bitter apple idea, that may do it. Another thing you could try, though I'd try using the Bitter Apple first is that when she starts it grab her leash firmly and tell her no, don't sound angry, just firm. If she persists tell her to sit, be firm about it but not mean. Another thing...maybe is try a Gentle Leader, if you use it appropriately you can control her head and close her mouth. It's gentle but works wonders, at least it did for me *shrug*


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## Brafer Hund (Nov 2, 2008)

You didn't specify the breed and size of the dog. Do you really need a prong collar? Is it installed correctly? Which side of you does your dog walk on? How do you correct the dog? Does he know why he is being corrected..If at all? In other words , In my particular case fooz means fooz and sitz means sitz..nothing else. It's when you combine the two during everyday tasks that the dog becomes confused and because of this praises have to also be directed and administered properly. Depending on the size of the dog...I use a 6'x3/4" leather leash with a brass ROUNDED snap..so consider the size. Here is where most dog owners fail their dog to the point that he spends his life being the leader of the pack. Spend 15 minutes 3 times a day..don't say you can't because you can and have someone teach you basic obedience. THE DOG ALREADY KNOWS WHAT TO DO..basic obedience should be directed towards you and administered throughthe dog. Always end it on a positive note with a brisk jog back and forth with the kong , water the dog mach sheist and go for a fooz in the evening as a reward instead of the kong for that particular session. This also helps to avoid training with treats which to me is nothing more than bribery. Since you have a prong collar, I assume you know that this promotes a different method of training. Make sure that that this is how you want to train and as well if it is actually needed. This would be where clickers may work I personally don't consider them practical for all purposes.Walking to the store is not a training session..at least not from where you stand at this point. I saw a post in the training section, I forget who wrote the short series but it was an overview really of what basic training entails..it's more directed towards the handler as well it should be and will definitely get your dog headed in the right direction should you take it seriously. A prong collar or any training collar should only be used until training is over. depending on what you want the dog to achieve, he should be offleash in 12 weeks. common sense being used of course since this is when you will, by this time learn to enjoy time with your dog and may go to offleash training.


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## Zr. (Aug 28, 2008)

I've heard bitter apple spray does work for it (yay google). I'll see if we can pick some up this weekend and try it. I'm a bit worried though, since I haven't found anything that she doesn't like the taste of yet.

We've only had her since 6 months, so we weren't there to train appropriately when she was a baby. If we had been she'd be perfect by now. The prong collar is for her safety. We walk her with that so she doesn't pull as hard as she can and hurt herself (we tried the halti, which worked but like I said she was hurting herself because she's extremely uncomfortable in it, we tried harnesses which irritated the skin under her arms, we tried the flat collar which made her choke herself till she was coughing). It is fitted correctly, though because she's.. strangely shaped I have to stop every little while and put it back in the proper spot. The prong is also the only thing we've found that she can't slip out of. She can slip the halti, every harness we've tried, her flat collar. Her head and neck are the same size, and her neck is so long nothing fits quite right.

The way we've tried training her is to have her stop and sit every time she pulls. This has worked quite a bit. Once in a while she gets a little tug on the prong if she's pulling as a reminder that she needs to walk on a loose leash, along with 'no pull'. She isn't perfect walking yet, and I really want to work with her more, but the leash biting is preventing that. We train primarily with clicker training. Like I said; the prong is for her safety. I don't want her to hurt herself by pulling like she does.

Her breed is unknown. She's about 40lbs right now and fairly small. I'm 5'3 and she doesn't even come up to my knees.

I treat everything we do like training, but I make it into a game. I do train with treats, as well as toys and praise. I make her sit and wait before getting a meal, going inside, etc. Usually when I see her I'll grab her leash (she's leashed most of the time right now to take care of her jumping issue) and take her for a little walk around the house in a heal. If she isn't excited she does wonderful, if she is excited she bites the leash.

Usually I end training sessions (either real training sessions or the spur of the moment ones) with a sit because she always does the sit so she can get her praise/treats.

She walks on the opposite side of the traffic, either left or right, and she knows which side to walk on. She knows her basic obedience very well, it's just the leash biting makes it very difficult to work on her leash training.

I do plan to get her to the point where she doesn't need the prong, though I don't think I'll ever trust her off leash. She has a very high prey drive for birds and unless I can trust her 100% she's stuck in a fence or on a lead.


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## Brafer Hund (Nov 2, 2008)

The reason for training your dog on a specific side is so that the dog learns from your actions. It also assures that the correction, if applied is actually correct. Training collars are installed directional according to what side the animal walks on. This also trains the owner how to properly hold the leash as well as correct the dog properly. Since my dog walks on my left he knows that when i step off on my left leg, that means fooz or walk with me. If i stop, he's still in a fooz but he will sitz at my left knee. Step off with the left leg to continue foozing ( accross a street or whatever), step off on your right foot and.....what? He stays where he's at, right? this is how you progress since the dog is already wired for this and you wont have to say a peep to him, he will just comply. I will agree with you in the fact that you are correct. The dog does know basic obedience....It's making him adhere to it that usually needs addressing but thats where the owner will have to sacrifice some time to learn it as well. You make very good observations though and that is the first step.


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## Tarekith (Mar 30, 2008)

We had this issue with Link, he'd go crazy and start frapping with the leash, generally attacking it and acting a fool. I tried the bitter apple, but it didn't do anything (nothing we put in his leash did). Eventually I would make him sit and just grab his mouth when he would bite the leash and tell him sternly "NO" until he relaxed and let go of it. I don't like being so forcefully physical like that, but it was the only thing that worked.


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## Zr. (Aug 28, 2008)

Brafer Hound, is your dog trained in Shutzhund? I've seen videos of those dogs' obedience and it's absolutely amazing. Their focus is incredible.

Will what side we walk her on affect anything? I've heard it's supposed to always be the left, but I know she prefers walking on the right. Also, would it still be appropriate to switch sides and get her into a sit when people/dogs walk by so she does't jump and try to play with them, or would that negatively affect the training? She was at a point where we didn't have to do this but she seems to have gone backwards a little bit and I wouldn't really trust her not to get those muddy paws all over someone.

We can't really grab her muzzle because she hates anything on there. I've been trying to condition her to it, petting her nose and gently cupping it, but if anything grips it she starts scratching at it and trying to bite (which is why the halti never worked). We did make a mistake using the halti when we knew it made her so uncomfortable and that probably made it worse instead of better.


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## MegaMuttMom (Sep 15, 2007)

I walk my dog on either side. Now that we are doing agility it is an advantage. The other dogs that are only used to working on one side of the trainer are struggling. I think it is good for you and your dog to be flexible for many reasons.


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## Zr. (Aug 28, 2008)

Now I'm back to being confused 

I've always found walking on both sides keeps us both happy. She's away from traffic and closer to things to sniff, and I don't have to worry about her darting after any cars or people. But I have been told many times that she's only supposed to walk on one side.


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## Brafer Hund (Nov 2, 2008)

Zr. said:


> Brafer Hound, is your dog trained in Shutzhund? I've seen videos of those dogs' obedience and it's absolutely amazing. Their focus is incredible.
> 
> Will what side we walk her on affect anything? I've heard it's supposed to always be the left, but I know she prefers walking on the right. Also, would it still be appropriate to switch sides and get her into a sit when people/dogs walk by so she does't jump and try to play with them, or would that negatively affect the training? She was at a point where we didn't have to do this but she seems to have gone backwards a little bit and I wouldn't really trust her not to get those muddy paws all over someone.
> 
> We can't really grab her muzzle because she hates anything on there. I've been trying to condition her to it, petting her nose and gently cupping it, but if anything grips it she starts scratching at it and trying to bite (which is why the halti never worked). We did make a mistake using the halti when we knew it made her so uncomfortable and that probably made it worse instead of better.




Yes, he is a Shutzhund trained dog. You will absolutely provide your dog with the best opportunity to focus on the way of the land if you start basic obedience on the left hand side. This is for you, not him because you want him to be through basic obedience within 12 weeks. You also fold and hold your leash in a manner that allows for correction as well as manuverability. The training collar should also be installed properly which is the reason for left hand side and as well the way the leash is to be held.By 12 weeks the use of corrections and verbal commands are a thing of the past. Your left leg becomes a compass so to speak until you start hand signals. BUT...you have to get to this point first. It is very easy but takes commitment..only 15-20 minutes a day 3 times a day.You will be surprised how much easier training the extras becomes. It's in the dogs best interest to know that he is going where you want him to go and because you want him to do it for these 12 weeks of basic( actually can be done in 6 but depends on the dog). If he decides he wants to walk on the opposite side then he is going where he wants and not where you want. If you let him get by with that, you have to start all over again so keep him on the left(nein/pop,fooz). It's that simple and this is where owners lose their alpha status. When the dog is finished basic obedience training becomes all the fun that he needs. 

Here is what you do:

1-Order a 6'x3/4" leather leash with a ROUNDED brass snap from LEERBURG.com--You will find no better quality anywhere in the world.

2- Measure the dog for a training collar- some people refer to these as choke chains *but thats only because they have no clue as to how to use them *so they do ultimately choke their dog and cause neck damage. It's a POP not a pull.

3- Get yourself a Kong..small to medium. this is his reward and nothing else. don't cram it full of treats. If the dog needs something to keep him occupied take him outside and practice foozing. Then he gets the kong for 10 minutes of fun. Also great for focusing drive.


*Now you will need to see a picture of how to fold and hold the leash as well as how to install the collar (you only use this collar when training and after basic obedience is over you will never need it again).

If you get this far, I''l walk you through the easy part since youv'e just finished the confusing part.


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## blackrose (Oct 7, 2006)

Chloe does the same thing with her leash, and so did Sadie. I just turned it into a reward in and of itself. I use a leather leash, so you can't really soak it in bitter apple spray, so I had to come up with something else. 

Every time one of the dogs started to play tug with the leash, I'd give them a leash correction. Since they were holding the leash in their mouths it didn't give them a pop on the neck, but it did make them spit the leash out (just make sure your leash won't harm your pup's mouth!). When I'd give the leash a pop I'd say, "Knock if off" in a no nonsense tone. It may have taken a couple of pops, but they'd eventually spit the leash out. Once the leash was dropped they'd get some quiet praise (nothing too exciting or they'd just pick the leash back up again) and I'd redirect them to something else. 

Eventually they would spit the leash out with me just saying "knock it off" and wouldn't reach for it again. 

With Chloe I still let her tug on the leash as a reward. If she does a really good bout of heeling, I'll reward her with some loose leash running around like a mad dog. When we do this she'll take the leash in her mouth and we'll run around playing tug with the leash while she's chasing me (that also keeps her mouth busy so I don't get nipped at!). Then when I slow down I'll say, "Okay, knock it off" and she spits the leash out and we go about our merry way.


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## Elana55 (Jan 7, 2008)

The leash biting has become self rewarding to the dog. This is not going to be easy to overcome because every time he does it, he is reinforced. 

Personally, I think that you could teach "leave it" and then transfer that command to the leash. I would also invoke NILIF just for basic every day training (see stickie at top of training forum). 

Can you teach your dog to take and to give with a toy? You can teach "take it" (which means pick it up) and "give it" which means put it in my hand and I will swap for a piece of food. You can train this with a toy (not a toy she has when you are not there.. only use it for when you are present and think of it as a tool). 

I would use "leave it" when she goes for the leash and then "give it" if she takes the leash. 

The clicker works really well to shape a new behavior (such as give it or leave it or any basic obedience and beyond). I love using the clicker to train a new behavior. You can teach heel with a clicker (I did). 

I also believe that every time you are with your dog you have a training opportunity. You have used that opportunity in your post. It fell apart because you took the dog past his tolerance and his limit (your Mom leaving and returning). I would avoid that in the future and try for walks where everyone stays together (for now) or where you only go out alone. 

If this is a dog headed for the obedience ring or competition, then there are protocols to follow. 

If you are not headed to formal competition, this is YOUR dog. You get the option of training your dog to do what YOU need, and not have to follow a protocol. If walking in heel postion on either side works for you and your purpose, then why not do it that way? I have different commands for right and left. Left is "by me" or, if I need a LOT of focus, "heel." Walking on my right is simply "side." 

I would try to work a lot on left/right side 'heel' position work. I would do this everywhere as what a dog learns at home the dog does not generalize to a new location. You need to train everywhere at every opportunity. The age of the dog when you start training shoud not make a difference. My dog was at the breeder and not trained and I got her at almost 6 months old.. and she is doing very well. 

Another thing you could try is a chain leash. It is a lot less rewarding to some dogs to grab a chain as opposed to nylon, leather or web leashes. You can get or make one that is only 3 feet long for walking.


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## Zr. (Aug 28, 2008)

Thank you all for your advice 

I've actually found something that - for the moment - works! She knows 'drop' for toys when we're playing fetch but I'd never transferred that command to the leash before. I was tlaking to my mother today and she was acting up, jumping and biting the leash. I told her 'DROP' because I was frustrated and... she did it. I was extremely surprised.

By the end of a five or ten minute training session (when I was much less grumpy ^-^) I had her walking at a heal around the house and sitting the second I told her to. Every time she grabbed the leash I told her 'drop' fairly sternly and she did it!

It'll take some work, but I think I can get this to work outside too. She got some play time with her kong as a reward. She loved it.

I may also start using her chain leash for walking. Right now she has a short rope/fabric/something we saw at a dollar store one day and bought because it was short leash that she wears around the house. We'll have to pick up a second chain leash that's shorter though because I hate just having one leash on her and the one she has is a bit long for her right now.


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## k9aussieposse (Nov 5, 2008)

Is there a way to get some energy out of her before you go out on a walk? I live in an apartment and have no yard. When my Aussie has a lot of energy, I put her on a treadmill for a while to let her vent some energy before we go for a walk and it calms her down. She loves the treadmill now, but initially it made her a bit nervous; kind of like a kid first learning to ice skate. If you have a yard, try playing ball or something before you go for a walk. Practice "sit" in between throwing the ball/toy to reinforce self-control despite excitement. When she's tired, but not exhausted, go for a walk.


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## Zr. (Aug 28, 2008)

We do have a small yard, but we also have neighbours that yell/swear at us out the window when we play with her. At all.. then complain to the landlord /: Living here fails and we're trying to find a new place to live. They absolutely loathe her.

She is fairly good at fetch, though. Before they started that I had her coming back, sitting and dropping the ball on command (if I was holding the ball). It's really cute. We could play tug with a rope toy, but would that reinforce pulling on the leash as play?

We've been looking for a cheap treadmill and I've been thinking of making a flirt pole for her. She'd love the flirt but I'm iffy about the treadmill. She can be a bit skiddish but I think after a lot of conditioning and praise she could handle it. Money's a little tight right now, though, but I hear you can get older ones cheap off craigslist and whatnot.

Just a little update; we bought bitter apple spray yesterday. I put it on her leash in the car because she always bites most when we get home. She still bit the leash but was getting the idea. She just wanted to test every inch of it for that gross taste. She gave up half way to the door and walked at a heel


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## Chels_girl (Aug 2, 2008)

Yay! *claps for Zir* I'm so glad she's starting to figure it out. And about the tug thing I don't think it'd be aiding her leash pulling at all. My puppy just got two new rope toys and we just started making a difference between people toys like the rope that we play with together and things like squeaky toys that are alone toys. They have a couple tug toys for just playing with each other but she seems to get it. That and her first rope tug we bought, I didn't think about it and left it down...she ripped it to shreds.
Oh and Good luck on finding a new place to live!


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## Acadia (Aug 6, 2008)

Glad to hear that she is learning to leave her leash alone. 

In regards to allowing your dog to get some exercise outside of walking, is there a dog park around your home?


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## k9aussieposse (Nov 5, 2008)

Playing tug of war is ok as long as she understands that the game ends when YOU want it to. Since she already knows the "drop" command, you can use that to get her to release the tug toy. Start and stop the game several times before you're actually done playing. If she knows that the only time you tell her to "drop" is when the game is finished, she won't be as willing to drop when you tell her. You can use "Drop" to get her to let go, ask for a "Sit" and then introduce another term like "Tug" so she knows the game has started again and it's okay to play with the tug toy again. As long as you limit tug play to special tug toys, it shouldn't reinforce the leash tugging. Careful with the flirt pole: something else for the neighbors to complain about to the landlord - especially if the landlord didn't give permission to install it in the yard. If the neighbors are that bad, exercise her inside and on walks until after you've been able to move. Ignore them and continue to show that she's a good and obedient dog through your actions.


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