# Tibetan Terrier on Dog Whisperer show. Tense leash question



## Cobalt (Jul 27, 2007)

My friend called to say that a Tibetan Terrier was going to be on the show a few days ago. We normally don't watch but turned it on.

The dog did just what one of our dogs does on walks... it must be a TT thing. She makes this weird cry, shriek noise when she sees other dogs. She goes nuts. She doesn't want to hurt them, she does well at doggy daycare.

On the show Cesar blamed tension in the leash. My question is that we walk with the retractable leashes so that there is always tension.

Do you think that simply using a leash without tension will help? The dog on the show was cured in 10 mins. My husband thinks Cesar drugged the dog 

Also, we have two Tibetans, 1 and 2. They have started to go nuts in the car when they see other dogs. Again, they are fine at doggy daycare. 

Any hints how to overcome either problem? 

In the house they listen to us, sit, down, off, leave it etc. but outside, they don't listen well. 

Thank you!


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

It's more about who gets to do the meeting and greeting first than the tight leash.
When she's out front, she gets to make-up the rules of engagement toward other dogs and people. Cesar doesn't let the dog make those decisions...he does...he makes first contact and the dog follows. It's that attitude that sets the stage...not the leash.


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## Cracker (May 25, 2009)

LLW is a very important skill for dogs and yes, a flexi has constant tension. 
What you do is work off the leash first, in the house. Make sure pup is hungry (work before a meal) have lots of little tiny yummy treats in a bag, pocket or in your hand. Have her sit. Then take a step or two and encourage her to follow you, when she gets into the Pocket...the area somewhere close to your side not too far behind or too far ahead say YESSSS and deliver her a treat. Repeat....mark (yesss) and treat for every step that she stays with you or that she moves to get into that area...very gradually increase it to two steps, three etc rewarding and marking.

Once you have a good "follow" where she is toodling along where ever you step, add a light leash but let her drag it, follow the routine again. Eventually you pick up the leash and only mark and reward when she is next to you (the only difference is you have the leash in your hand)..there should be no tension in the leash when you mark and reward. 

Then you "take it on the road", going back to ONE STEP, mark reward and building up in each new place you try it. Only gradually increase the difficulty in the sense of moving from inside to outside and to busier places. This will help her learn to keep the leash loose when walking with you (at least most of the time) and also that being in the pocket is the best, most rewarding place to be. 

Over time (all training processes take time...) you should be able to walk loose leash the majority of the time and be able to only occasionally reward it, whether the reward be a toy, some praise or a chance to sniff or play. 

Dogs react to tension on the leash when they see other dogs because they know they are "tethered" and cannot escape IF the other dog is a threat....so they act threatening, thinking it will make the other dog go away. This behaviour can get worse if not dealt with and is often based in fear. Cesar makes it look easy... but it's not. Patience, understanding and some research will help.

Check out the book "Fiesty Fido" by Patricia McConnell...it deals specifically with leash reactivity.


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## Cobalt (Jul 27, 2007)

I thought it looked way to easy to be true.

Thanks for the great suggestions! I understand it better now. I thought that they went bonkers because they wanted to play. The other dog owner doesn't think that, they walk away fast. It's embarrassing. 

I bought a clicker, it take coordination. I think I'll try without the clicker. 

I assume one dog at a time alone??

Also, what can I do about the car? They are so loud that the dog owner outside on the street hears them. Short of not taking them for rides that is...


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## Cracker (May 25, 2009)

The car is tougher...a couple of options:
Put the dogs in harnesses and seatbelts or in crates (soft sided are easy) while going anywhere (it's safer too!). This will help reduce their stimulation levels and possibly keep them from seeing the other dogs and reacting. 
Praise ALL calm behaviour.

ANd yes I would recommend walking the dogs separately for a while as the behaviour feeds both dogs. You may find that one dog is worse than the other..that one will take more work and patience. The booklet I mentioned has great tips.

YAY a clicker!!
When I got my first clicker the first thing I worked on was LLW...probably better to start with something easy to get the dogs used to the system and help make them clicker savvy. I got myself a waist leash (hands free) so I could work the clicker and treats without being un coordinated and to avoid tugging or jerking the leash as a frustration reaction...(old habits die hard). I made much greater success with the clicker than any other method I had tried.

Good luck!


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## Cobalt (Jul 27, 2007)

Waist leash, good idea! I'll try the clicker. I watched "Me or the Dog" and Victoria used the clicker. Inside, click treat etc. 

The two yr old Mia is worse and Luna, the 1 yr old started to pick up the barking in the car. Mia starts, then Luna barks and jumps on Mia out of excitement or for protection. Then Mia gets ticked at Luna for jumping on her.

I love my dogs but we have a lot of work to do. I think my recent college graduate might become my personal dog trainer while she looks for a job!


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## DogsforMe (Mar 11, 2007)

You need to charge the clicker 1st before you start any real training. You simply click, treat, over & over again, about 20 times. Then you start clicking anything you like, like taking a photo, & must always give a treat after a click even if you make a mistake. You don't really need a clicker, you can simply say 'yes' in place of the click. I have used both.


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## Marsh Muppet (Nov 29, 2008)

I forget who said it first, but "train, don't restrain". Holding a dog back can cause him to pull harder and increase his excitement. When the undesirable behavior is the result of excitement, restraining the dog with a taut leash tends to make it worse.


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