# dropped leash training



## cookieface (Jul 6, 2011)

Recently we've had a few instances when dropping Katie's leash was a real possibility and/or a good option given the situation. I _know_ I need to work on training for the eventuality that I will or need to drop the leash, but I'm not exactly sure how to do that. I mean, it sounds simple in theory: walk along; drop the leash; and reinforce her staying nearby, recalling, or running towards the house. Start in a relatively low distraction area, gradually increase difficulty, etc. regular training process.

*But*, I'm not sure about the reality of doing this. Ideally, I'd start in a fenced area (I think); however, our yard isn't suited for this (and she knows she's in the yard and can run freely). Do you use two leashes (regular plus long)? Wait until you have fantastic recall? How did you work on this? Any tips?


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## NicoleIsStoked (Aug 31, 2012)

Use a long leash (20-30ft) and walk along a quiet side street holding it. In the middle of the walk just drop the leash and keep walking. Before you do this your dog should walk well on a loose leash and know not to walk in front of you. Also start rewarding for eye contact on your walks so she remains very aware of where you are.


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## BernerMax (Mar 15, 2013)

Good advice! I was thinking the topic was "dropped" leash training ie let it lapse , which is what I have done and are trying to resume, but now that puppy is 85 lbs of 7 month old love its a bit of a challenge....LOL....


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## cookieface (Jul 6, 2011)

NicoleIsStoked said:


> Use a long leash (20-30ft) and walk along a quiet side street holding it. In the middle of the walk just drop the leash and keep walking. Before you do this your dog should walk well on a loose leash and know not to walk in front of you. Also start rewarding for eye contact on your walks so she remains very aware of where you are.


Thanks. She's fairly good a LLW unless there's a huge distraction and I do reward for attention (not necessarily eye contact because I can't always see her eyes), but I prefer her to walk ahead of me. I think I'll work on having her sit when I stop walking, too. She already knows to sit at intersections and before we cross the street, so it shouldn't be too hard. I know just the place to practice, too: short side street, no dogs, few cars. 



BernerMax said:


> Good advice! I was thinking the topic was "dropped" leash training ie let it lapse , which is what I have done and are trying to resume, but now that puppy is 85 lbs of 7 month old love its a bit of a challenge....LOL....


Yeah, guess I could have found a more descriptive phrase. Made sense in my head.


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## elrohwen (Nov 10, 2011)

I have a 20ft long line and will drop it on my property or a hike when Watson is being responsive and well behaved. It he's off in his own world and ignoring me, I'm not going to drop the leash. So basically I practice giving him the freedom when he's earned it by being attentive and not tuning me out. 

Or do you want her to just stop and wait when you drop the leash?


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## cookieface (Jul 6, 2011)

elrohwen said:


> I have a 20ft long line and will drop it on my property or a hike when Watson is being responsive and well behaved. It he's off in his own world and ignoring me, I'm not going to drop the leash. So basically I practice giving him the freedom when he's earned it by being attentive and not tuning me out.
> 
> Or do you want her to just stop and wait when you drop the leash?


My main interest is in keeping her nearby should I drop her leash accidentally (e.g., if I fall or pass out). So, yes, stop and wait if I drop the leash. A secondary concern is what happens if we're approached by a loose dog and I need to let her go for her own safety. I'm not even sure what I'd want her to do in that situation.


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## CptJack (Jun 3, 2012)

Ah yes. The most useful thing ever (says me).

This is not complicated for me.

Teach the dog stay. Give verbal stay command as you drop the leash. Fade the verbal cue, until the dropped leash is the cue. Use a fenced in area for practice. Reward heavily every time they stay for the 'stay' outside, both before and after the leash dropping becomes the cue.

If you want her to run somewhere specific or whatever you're going to have to teach her something different, but in honesty if you drop her leash and another dog is going after her training is probably going away in the face of survival instinct.


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## Hector4 (Sep 16, 2013)

I teach my dog a "stop" command. He will either stop moving forward or turn around and come back to me. Sometimes he'll take a couple of small steps forward before stopping. It's still a work in progress. In reality all I can hope is that the training and practice will pay off when it's really needed.


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## CptJack (Jun 3, 2012)

Hector4 said:


> I teach my dog a "stop" command. He will either stop moving forward or turn around and come back to me. Sometimes he'll take a couple of small steps forward before stopping. It's still a work in progress. In reality all I can hope is that the training and practice will pay off when it's really needed.


I do this as well, but I've had situations where equipment failed, or I failed (numb fingers, leashes breaking, D-rings breaking, hooking the leash to the tag split ring). I want the leash falling to be the cue because the second the leash drops I want them to stop - not when I notice that it's happened a second or two later.

Fortunately, it's basically the same thing. Just turn the leash falling into the cue.


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## cookieface (Jul 6, 2011)

Thanks, CptJack. I was thinking about PMing you because I finally remembered it was you who advocated so strongly for this training not too long ago. Yes, I want the dropped leash to be a cue to (ideally) get out of the road, sit or down on the grass, and stay put until I give a release. Teaching a cue word wouldn't really work for situations I can envision as in many of them, I'm unconscious. 

You're right about survival instinct if we're attacked. She can probably outrun about 90% of the dogs we'd normally encounter, but she doesn't have the sense to run someplace safe and away from the road.

I never imagined dog walks would be this complicated.


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## Biddity (Jan 18, 2014)

Sorry to be a little off-topic, but with the suggestions about the 20ft-30ft line, for me I take it as I kind of have LLW down but I haven't tried with a leash longer than 2-3ft because the leash always gets tangled in my dogs legs - not a problem if I drop completely, but problem if I'm still holding on to it. Is this usually a thing or?
Any help would be appreciated!


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