# Help! So many mats!!



## TibetanFan (Aug 31, 2007)

My tibetan terrier just turned 1 and is getting in her adult coat. I can't keep up with the mats! I'm brushing her every morning and night but can't keep up! I have her groomed every 3 weeks and she is going in a couple days but I'm worried they will say I have to shave her. Are there any tricks to getting the mats out. She tolerates brushing pretty well but when I start in with the slicker brush she ends up stuggling to get away.


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## Durbkat (Jun 26, 2007)

What brushes are you using besides the slicker brush? I use a comb as well. The slicker never seemed to get mats out for me, a comb did better. But they also make grooming tools that are made to de mat mats.


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## TibetanFan (Aug 31, 2007)

I have a regular dog brush with straight pins, a slicker brush, scissors and a detangling, conditioning spray. My challenge is that she stuggles to get away when I try to get through the knots and mats. I try to be as gentle as possible while still making progress. If she would let me really work on it for an hour or so I could probably get it 90% better!


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## flipgirl (Oct 5, 2007)

Ah I know how you feel! When my dog's adult coat came in (she's a shih-tzu x bichon cross), it was so hard and she hated it. I'd spend an hour getting the mats out and then they'd come in like I never took them out! What I would suggest is getting a dematting tool that looks like a claw with a handle. The type of coat your dog has determines how close the tines are. THis will cut the mats. Also get a dematting blade. When you are trying to take a mat out, take the blade and cut into the side of the mat. Then cut into the other side. Then try to cut the mat in half to make it smaller and thus easier to handle. I think this period only lasted for 3 weeks so just be patient! Keep your dematting sessions short and treat your dog. Then use the dematting tool and run the claw against the skin like you would a comb. This should take out the dead hair. Good luck!


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## Graco22 (Jul 16, 2007)

You will need to work thru the matts slowly, and she is going to have to cooperate for you, or you will not be able to get them out. If you dont get them out before her grooming, there is a good chance she will have to be shaved.  Make sure you are using a conditioning/dematting spray as a mist on her while you are brushing. There are many kinds out there. Since you are limited on time before her grooming, either find something at a petstore, or find Show Sheen somewhere you can purchase horse stuff. Don't dilute the showsheen, just spray a light mist on the spot you are brushing, and work thru the matt slowly with either a slicker or a pin brush. Then go thru that spot with a metal greyhound comb. THen move on to another spot. Don't worrk about armpits or groin, as they can be shaved out without being able to see they are shaved, and dematting those areas is very painful. For her wiggling and moving around, put her up on a small card table, washing machine, etc. with a towel down. Teach her stand and stay command. Putting dogs up on a table/washer, etc makes it much easier to control them. It also lets them know the difference between business and play time. Many people stuggle on the floor,lap, couch, etc with their dogs. Those areas are "play" areas..make the difference known by using a table, etc. The smaller the better. You don't want them to have alot of room to run around on. And DONT stop on a bad note. When they wiggle away from you, and you give up, you just teach them to keep wiggling, fighting, etc. because eventually, you will stop. Always end on a good note only. Best of luck. Tibetans are beautiful dogs.


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## Durbkat (Jun 26, 2007)

If you can't get them out then the night before I'd just cut them out if they aren't to close to the skin. I've had to do it on Snoopy's neck and ear's because those area's matted real quick when he was getting his adult coat. It doesn't mat as easily but I take his collar off and brush his neck and ear's daily now.


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## Graco22 (Jul 16, 2007)

If you end up having to resort to cutting them out, I would recommend you leave it to a professional groomer. If not, then be VERY careful. Many people pull the matt up and just cut..then they end up with a slice in the skin as well and need an emergency vet appt. Matts very close to the skin are very dangerous to cut out with shears. It you "cut" them out yourself, its much safer to use clippers if they are close to the skin. I can't tell you how many pet owners have brought in their dog after trying to cut a matt out at home and left the dog with stitches and a chopped up haircut they want me to fix.


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## Durbkat (Jun 26, 2007)

My vet showed me a way to cut Snoopy's mats out. He said to place two fingers below the mat and cut up instead of across or do the same thing without the fingers if you can't get all of the mat above the finger.


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## TibetanFan (Aug 31, 2007)

Thanks for all the advice! I love the table suggestion GRACO22! You're right, I try to get her while she's lying down on the floor or couch but then she gets up and leaves. We have many years off brushing ahead of us and the table idea will help. I've been doing my best to get most of the mats out. She goes to the groomer tomorrow - we'll see what happens!


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## Durbkat (Jun 26, 2007)

Snoopy doesn't fight me to much but does better on the bed where he can rest his feet while I got my arm around him to hold him still.


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## Graco22 (Jul 16, 2007)

I think you will find amazing improvement if you train her on a table. It will also help the groomer (and you) teach her to STAND for brushing. I know pet owners think they are doing the right thing by teaching their puppy to lay down for brushing/combing, etc. in the lap, and such, but they aren't. It just makes it harder to teach the pup to stand on the table. You can't give a dog a nice haircut when its laying/sitting, or jumping all over. They HAVE to stand up. Once you get her on a table, you will have alot more control over her, especially if you can manage to purchase a small grooming table and arm with a grooming loop. Once she realizes she isn't getting away, it will become a breeze to brush her out every day. We shouldn't have to be pinning our pets, or tricking/treating them constantly in order for them to behave for grooming. It doesn't have to be an unhappy experience for them or us.


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## TibetanFan (Aug 31, 2007)

Well, she went in yesterday and had to be cut VERY short. She looks like a strange lamb!! Oh well. It's just hair, it will grow back! Hopefully we won't be back in the same situation again!


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## Graco22 (Jul 16, 2007)

Sorry to hear she had to be cut down. Its best for the dog though if there are many matts. That is great that you have a good attitude about it. After all, it is only hair, and it grows back. Now you will have a fresh start with her coat. It will be easier too now that the adult coat is coming in and the puppy coat should all be blown.  Much easier to take care of.


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## TibetanFan (Aug 31, 2007)

Graco22 - How come your # of posts always says 6?


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## Graco22 (Jul 16, 2007)

Tibetan, I don't know. lol I never paid any attention to that. I used to come on this board more often, maybe a year ago, but have been too busy and I frequent other grooming boards more often. I just started reading this one again last week. I am not super familiar with it here at this point. I guess maybe it will say 7 now? lol


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## TibetanFan (Aug 31, 2007)

Oh, I see. When you post it changes the # on all your previous posts as well! So how long does it usually take for an adult coat to grow in completely? This is my first dog so it's all new to me.


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## Graco22 (Jul 16, 2007)

Being that she is just a year old now, her adult coat should be all that is coming in now. As a general rule (can be more specific in certain breeds, and even certain lines in breeds) coat changes can take place anywhere from 6 months old to 1 1/2 years old. Sometimes it takes months for all the puppy coat to come out and new to come in, sometimes just weeks. Depends on the breed/lines/etc. I would assume that she blew most if now all her puppy coat recently, hence the severe matting all at once like you experience. When the puppy coat blows, the matts come practically overnite and brushing and combing needs to be very thorough and daily at least. With a tibetan, of course, you have alot of hair to get thru when that happens and its not an easy job. I would assume that now that she was cut short, all the puppy coat is gone now and the new growth will be adult coat only. I can't say for 100% without having seen the coat before and after the haircut, but I would guess it to be a pretty safe assumption. The nice thing about an adult tibetan coat is that it will be fairly coarse in texture, helping to lessen the matting for you. Coarser coats matt less than fine, soft coats. But they are a doublecoated breed, so you will still have to brush to get that undercoat out so that it doesn't cause matting. They are a high maintenance breed if you like the natural looking coat. Of course, you can find a good groomer and have her clipped to a more manageable length, yet still retain the tibetan look.  They are a lovely breed, and I enjoy grooming them. Never had a naughty one..yet..lol Can't say that for many breeds.


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## Twinkle_Twinkle (Apr 30, 2008)

On this topic, (although this is an old thread) I believe my puppy is beginning to get her adult coat and I am loosing my mind! I have had to go up to two groomings a day, with a pin brush and comb and there are still mats. I hope this only last a few weeks as opposed to months. Poor thing has been really patient though, thank goodness.


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## ohrats9 (Dec 19, 2007)

I always tell my clients to not see it as a super short hair cut, but rather a clean slate that is easier to work with and good use for practice. 

Now that she is nice and short, start getting her used to being brushed and combed at home. If you have to put her up on something, go for it. Show her it isn't a fight by keeping upbeat and using treats. This is crucial. If every time she wiggles and tries to get away you get frustrated with her, it becomes a lousy thing in her mind. On that same note, if she wiggles to get away from you and you allow her to do that, you are reinforcing the bad behavior and she ends up thinking all she has to do is kick a fight and she won't have to be brushed.

With dogs like this I have a method that usually works. When the dog starts to throw a tantrum (no matter how small), I continue what I am doing but I am totally quiet. I am also calm with a loose jaw (it works). I don't get pushy and I don't get loud, I simply continue doing what I am doing and ignore the behavior. The SECOND that dog does ANYTHING good (be on the ball here and really look for it), I smile and praise and make a big deal out of the dog while continuing on in my progress. If the dog is one that needs as much help as possible, I will make sure there are super tasty treats nearby to pop in their mouth while praising. However, I never let go of the part I am brushing. I pop the treat in their mouth while praising and go right back to brushing. As soon as they start up again, I ignore them completely again and carry on. If they are bucking around like a maniac, I will often support them under the chest and brush where I can just to get started and give them the chance to be good. Otherwise they will pull and push and wiggle to see if they can get me to stop and it turns into the fight you don't want it to be. Set your dog up to win and don't give in when they are acting like a loser.

This helps because the dog sees there is no fight in you and they aren't getting attention when they shouldn't be receiving it. You aren't angry and ready to "take them on", you are simply brushing them and it isn't a big deal. It also shows them that the second they are good, they get rewarded. 

When regarding mats, you don't want to cut them out on a coat like that. The different lengths of hair will cause the coat to mat faster. You also want to avoid mat breaking whenever you can as it simply breaks the hair down and causes it to mat up. Keep the hair the same length and healthy. Brush the entire dog with a slicker brush until all mats are out and then comb the entire dog all the way to the skin. Combs rule for finding tangles you missed. Pay special attention to friction areas as they will tangle first. 

A wet dog mats up quickly. If you bathe at home always dry the coat completely. Then brush and comb. 

Brush and comb daily and you shouldn't have a problem with mats. If you continue to be accosted by them, consider a shorter hair cut that matches your lifestyle. If not for you, for your dog. Mats are uncomfortable for a dog. I always say to sacrifice the length for comfort if that's what it comes to.

I don't know if that helps?


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## Durbkat (Jun 26, 2007)

I have tried what you have suggested about getting the dog to be calm while brushing but Snoopy won't accept treats when he gets worked up by trying to get away. But he is not like that now, well not as bad, he still fights but after a minute or two he stops.


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## ohrats9 (Dec 19, 2007)

Durbkat said:


> I have tried what you have suggested about getting the dog to be calm while brushing but Snoopy won't accept treats when he gets worked up by trying to get away. But he is not like that now, well not as bad, he still fights but after a minute or two he stops.


You shouldn't be giving him treats as he's trying to get away. Isn't that simply treating him for trying to get away from you? Ignore him while he is doing that and continue brushing him. However - You should treat him the _second_ he stops. If he is still turning his nose up at the treats, maybe try a different treat? Something more enticing? Higher quality treats go a long way when training.


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## Durbkat (Jun 26, 2007)

No no, I try and treat when he is calm but when I put the treat up to him to grab he pulls his head back and starts fighting again. I have tried dog biscuts and pupperoni and he turned his nose up to each, he never turns his nose up to pupperoni. I can't give him real high quality treats as he has a sensitive stomach.


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## ohrats9 (Dec 19, 2007)

Durbkat said:


> No no, I try and treat when he is calm but when I put the treat up to him to grab he pulls his head back and starts fighting again. I have tried dog biscuts and pupperoni and he turned his nose up to each, he never turns his nose up to pupperoni. I can't give him real high quality treats as he has a sensitive stomach.


Oh I see. Well then maybe not treats huh? lol. Some of my dogs are allowed to "take a break". I have one little guy that has come a long way just by stopping what I am doing and sweet talking him. I don't let go, but I stop for a second and love him up. He went from defecating & biting (very serious fear issues) to simply being wary and ready to defend himself if need be. I never supply the need. I always walk him before the session but I have found sitting outside with him after the grooming very beneficial. 

I guess what I am trying to say is by "high quality treat", for me, it doesn't always necessarily mean food. What you might think is a wonderful treat could be mediocre at best in your dogs eyes.


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