# My puppy is jumping on the sofa and wont listen!



## im_nice1 (Mar 12, 2009)

Firstly, thanks t everybody who responded to my earlier thread. Im using a stuffed kong at dinnertime and its working. 

now for a new one: My 4 month old puppy bessie has started to jump on the sofa and the more we tell her 'off' and 'no' the more she doesnt listen. she knows she is not allowed to do this because she actually waits with her two forepaws on the sofa to see f anyone is watching and then proceeds to jump up on the sofa even after being told 'no' to! (she responds to 'no' and off n sit comands during training)

to add insult to injury, sometimes she jumps down at the 'no'..accepts the praise and the treat and then jumps right back at the sofa. and keeps repeating on/off behaviour. i have tried clapping my hands, making a noise, but nothing gets her off it apart from hauling her down physically, after which she jumps right back. (yesterday she peed on the sofa)
any advice?


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## nikelodeon79 (Feb 3, 2009)

Jumping on and off the sofa has become a game to her.

If she jumps off the sofa when you tell her to, praise her, give her a treat, and then BLOCK her from jumping on again. She'll grow bored of the game soon enough...


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## im_nice1 (Mar 12, 2009)

thanks nikelodeon...but do u have any suggestions on how to block off a huge sofa? (I cant think of any apart from just leashing her. and the moment the leash is free back she jumps.) sigh!


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## nikelodeon79 (Feb 3, 2009)

im_nice1 said:


> thanks nikelodeon...but do u have any suggestions on how to block off a huge sofa? (I cant think of any apart from just leashing her. and the moment the leash is free back she jumps.) sigh!


Hmm... With Luna it's easier because she currently prefers the loveseat to the sofa. *g*

Is it possible to put something on the sofa (boxes, totes, etc.) to make it difficult for her to jump on? Just leave part of it open (small enough for you to guard).


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## Westhighlander (Sep 28, 2007)

You can not let her in that room or keep her on a leash when she is in that room. So she jumps on the coach lead her off to where you want her to be.


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

One of the challenges of dog training is learning that we can't give commands from across the room....we usually have to be right next to them and that's why leashes are often mentioned...so that we get close.....across the room stuff is Advanced Obedience. 
When the leash is off, you need to be there to stick your hand in her face like a stop sign. Even puppies understand that sign to mean NO! and it blocks them from jumping but, you have to be there. Now the hard part....you need to replace that game with something better....something that she enjoys and earns your time and attention. That's how this game got started....she got your time and attention. You have to teach her a new game.


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## Marsh Muppet (Nov 29, 2008)

TooneyDogs said:


> One of the challenges of dog training is learning that we can't give commands from across the room....


Do you make housecalls? I need someone to explain this to my lovely bride. I must be speaking Klingon or sump'n.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

Marsh Muppet said:


> Do you make housecalls? I need someone to explain this to my lovely bride. I must be speaking Klingon or sump'n.


I'm sorry, this sounds like a very personal problem, I can't handle my bride across the room after 44 years. Let me know how this works out for you.


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## ambercober (Jan 1, 2009)

For the part about blocking off a huge sofa, this is really good for when you go to sleep and can't watch her, put tin foil on the cushions. I use this for a dog that I regularly have stay with me, my neighbor travels for work so lots of short trips, and the pooch is a sofa queen *lol. She's pretty good about staying off while I'm in the room but once I go to sleep she goes straight for the seats. I had read about the tin foil method somewhere, maybe even here *smiles*, and it works!!! Dogs just don't like the feel of the foil under thier paws, can't say I'd like it much either *L, so it fixed my problem in a jiffy.


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

Marsh Muppet said:


> Do you make housecalls? I need someone to explain this to my lovely bride. I must be speaking Klingon or sump'n.



Bad Dog! Bad!


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## Trainer (Feb 18, 2009)

TooneyDogs said:


> One of the challenges of dog training is learning that we can't give commands from across the room....we usually have to be right next to them and that's why leashes are often mentioned...so that we get close.....across the room stuff is Advanced Obedience.
> 
> 
> > This is the key to this problem. Also, I'd wager that you are asking, begging, pleading, barganing with her to get off the couch. I don't allow dogs on the bed. When a new dog comes to live with us, the first time he jumps on the bed, within 2 seconds, my hand is on his collar leading him off the bed. No asking, no begging, no barganing. On bed, hand on collar, off bed. The whole process takes about 2 secnds. Repeat the procedure 3 times and the dog understands it.
> ...


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## im_nice1 (Mar 12, 2009)

Thanks for all for the replies:

Tooney dogs: im right there next to her and the sofa. putting my palm in front of her face just stops her for 2 seconds, she looks more naughty and then she clambors right on the sofa till i haul her off by her harness. 

ambercober: tinfoil on sofa sounds like a great blocker. am gonna try it. 

Trainer: I used a firm 'off' command repeatedly; but did give her treats and praise everytime she clambored down. (after eating both she clambors up again). so then i haul her off the sofa physically (not 3 but 30 times) but the moment her feet touch the ground and i leave her; she is back at climbing that sofa. 

and yeah all..im going to have to find a new puppy game to rival the 'sofa climbing'. any ideas?


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## craigclemins (Mar 17, 2009)

Hey, I recently had the same problem and I found that through persistently pulling my dog down from the couch and then standing there so she couldn't get back up worked well...


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## cshellenberger (Dec 2, 2006)

Ok, a quick solutin that works well if you're not on the sofa. Go to Lowes (or Home depot or some other such store) in the flooring departemnt you'll find rolls of carpet protector, it's plastic and has small 'cleats' get a piece the size of your sofa cut. Get home and place it *CLEATS UP* on the sofa, the pup will jump up and get an uncomfortable and undesirable surprise and jump right back off on her own. reward HEAVILY for her getting off and STAYING off, in time you won't need the carpet protector.


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## rambler (Dec 28, 2008)

Get an ecollar. Next time she jumps up there give her a blast. 

Problem solved. 

The technology is available- use it.


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## hulkamaniac (Feb 11, 2009)

nikelodeon79 said:


> Jumping on and off the sofa has become a game to her.
> 
> If she jumps off the sofa when you tell her to, praise her, give her a treat, and then BLOCK her from jumping on again. She'll grow bored of the game soon enough...


I agree with this. For her the game is, "Jump on the sofa, get told no, jump off, get praise" The dog has learned that in order to get praise from you she has to jump on the sofa and jump off. Personally, I never praise a dog for obeying a no command for this reason. The dog may learn that they have to work for the no command. For me, the no command comes with no reward and comes with punishment if the dog continues to disobey so it's not a desirable outcome for any behavior.

Tell the dog "no." Remove the dog from the couch if necessary. I like the carpet protector idea. That will probably teach the dog not to jump on the couch without you having to do anything.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

Carla
Excellent that sounds like a plan and no yelling involved, the pup thinks it's his idea.

Rambler
I hope your batteries never run out as your dog training programs are definitely gonna take a beating with no batteries.


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

You don't use treats for things like this. You rewarded her for getting off. That reinforced the getting down but, does absolutely nothing for teaching her that getting up there in the first place is wrong....treats only made things worse and turned it into a game.


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## hanksimon (Mar 18, 2009)

I usually go for pure positive methods, but once a misbehavior becomes self-rewarding, I believe less positive approaches (not harsh) are required. When she jumps on the sofa, tell her "Off !", then physically remove her and isolate her in a time-out, progressively.

1. First for 15 seconds.
2. Second infraction for 30 seconds.
3. Third infraction for 2 minutes.
4. Fourth infraction outside or another room... without being cruel.

She has not had to deal with serious, disciplined consequences, so she has learned that "no" means "maybe" . So, you have to re-train her that "Off" mean now... or lose the privilege of any attention - powerful stuff for a dog.

Make sure that you aren't angry or severe, just no-nonsense.

Think of it in the same way that you did house training. And, think of jumping on the sofa, as having an "accident," when she was a young puppy. That analogy may help you apply the same type of discipline.

- Hank Simon


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## nikelodeon79 (Feb 3, 2009)

hanksimon said:


> I usually go for pure positive methods, but once a misbehavior becomes self-rewarding, I believe less positive approaches (not harsh) are required. When she jumps on the sofa, tell her "Off !", then physically remove her and isolate her in a time-out, progressively.
> 
> 1. First for 15 seconds.
> 2. Second infraction for 30 seconds.
> ...


I'm uncertain about this method... simply because I don't believe lengthening the "time out" period is going to matter. Puppy probably won't be able to realize "Gee, I'm getting a longer time out than I did last time I jumped on the sofa." 



> Think of it in the same way that you did house training. And, think of jumping on the sofa, as having an "accident," when she was a young puppy. That analogy may help you apply the same type of discipline.


Again, I disagree. I don't agree with disciplining a young puppy for having an accident in the house, even if that discipline is very mild. I just don't think a pup can equate "potty on carpet = time out." They likely will start to equate "potty in front of owner = negative things." I personally don't even interrupt my pup if she has an accident. I just ignore her and try to be more diligent in watching her/reading her signals in the future so I can PREVENT accidents.


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## hanksimon (Mar 18, 2009)

I'm sorry I wasn't clear with the term "discipline." When you train the pup to stay off the sofa, the boundaries of correct and incorrect behavior have to be clearly defined for the pup and you have to apply those boundaries consistently in a very disciplined way, otherwise the dog will interpret it in her favor. And I didn't intend for my analogy to be taken literally for the approach, but for the seriousness of approach. 

Telling the pup "No" and clapping were not providing clear boundaries of right and wrong behavior, so you need another approach. And I believe that you will have to lead the pup off of the sofa ... in the same way that you lead a pup to the correct place to potty - (Analogy stops right there). Since the pup has learned to do the wrong thing, you'll have to re-direct the pup to show her the right thing. Unfortunately, jumping on the sofa is self-rewarding, so I also recommend a time-out.

You are correct that the pup won't recognize the progression as significant, but the pup may understand the difference between a short time-out and a long time-out. The pup will understand a withdrawal of attention, but may not understand why. The progression gives the owner a chance to observe the results and adjust if needed.

If the other methods haven't worked, try this approach for three days and get back with the results. On the first day, the pup may think that you are playing and then will whine about the isolation. After a good night's sleep, on the second day, the pup may begin to learn and understand what you are doing and try to anticipate you, even jumping down. But she may still put her paws on the sofa and try to sneak up. On the third day, you should see a noticeable progress and understanding. It may not be perfect, but it is in the positive direction. 

But to make this approach work, you have to be disciplined about treating this behavior seriously, and to clearly teach her the boundaries of where she is allowed and not allowed to go.

Sorry I wasn't clear the first time.

- Hank Simon


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## Corteo (Jan 7, 2009)

rambler said:


> Get an ecollar. Next time she jumps up there give her a blast.
> 
> Problem solved.
> 
> The technology is available- use it.


Oh please don't. 

I agree with Carla.


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## hulkamaniac (Feb 11, 2009)

hanksimon said:


> I usually go for pure positive methods, but once a misbehavior becomes self-rewarding, I believe less positive approaches (not harsh) are required. When she jumps on the sofa, tell her "Off !", then physically remove her and isolate her in a time-out, progressively.
> 
> 1. First for 15 seconds.
> 2. Second infraction for 30 seconds.
> ...


I don't think I agree with you. Not because I'm not a fan of punishments, but because I'm not a fan of time outs as a punishment for dogs. I don't know that that's the appropriate response. I do kind of agree with the house breaking analogy. Ideally you keep your dog under supervision 24/7 and the moment you see the dog start to sniff around and look for a place to pee, you take him outside. I would treat the couch the same way. If the dog even looks at the couch, you punish the behavior. Now this doesn't mean an e-collar, time out, or whatever I would escalate it. If you can just yell, "hey" and the dog looks at you and you've got a severe look on your face and the dog gets the idea that looking at the sofa is a bad idea that is sufficient IMO. If a look doesn't work, say "no" as well. If that doesn't work, do all of the above, grab the dogs collar and gently lead the dog away. The dog should learn that even thinking of jumping on the sofa brings bad things.


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## nikelodeon79 (Feb 3, 2009)

Trainer said:


> When a new dog comes to live with us, the first time he jumps on the bed, within 2 seconds, my hand is on his collar leading him off the bed. No asking, no begging, no barganing. On bed, hand on collar, off bed. The whole process takes about 2 secnds. Repeat the procedure 3 times and the dog understands it.


I just noticed this response, and wanted to comment.

Either this doesn't work with all dogs/puppies, or I have a weird dog.  Luna will continue the on/off sofa game ALL DAY if I'd let her. I've repeated the procedure of taking her collar and leading her off the sofa WAY more than 3 times. There was no asking, begging or bargaining involved.

So... maybe a _dog_ understands it, but not a puppy.


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## Westhighlander (Sep 28, 2007)

nikelodeon79 said:


> I just noticed this response, and wanted to comment.
> 
> Either this doesn't work with all dogs/puppies, or I have a weird dog.  Luna will continue the on/off sofa game ALL DAY if I'd let her. I've repeated the procedure of taking her collar and leading her off the sofa WAY more than 3 times. There was no asking, begging or bargaining involved.
> 
> So... maybe a _dog_ understands it, but not a puppy.


Then you take them to a place to be by themselves. They will get that jumping on the couch will lead to social isolation soon enough.


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## nikelodeon79 (Feb 3, 2009)

I think the reason people disagree so much on training techniques is because for each breed... heck for each individual dog, some things work and other things do not.

If Luna gets a "time out" she seems to be thinking "I wanna jump on the sofa I wanna jump on the sofa I wanna jump on the sofa" so as soon as the time out is up, guess what she does? 

Jumps on the sofa.

I dunno... maybe it's just a Northern breed thing. *g*

With her, getting her to jump off and then BLOCKING her from jumping on again is the best method. It may not be the best method for the OP... she won't know until she tries... but it's the best method for Luna. She eventually gets bored of the game and moves on to something else. Now she's to the point that she rarely jumps on the sofa any longer, and when she does, it's like she's forgotten she can't be up there (gets excited by the cat, cat jumps on the sofa, Luna follows). All it takes is for me to tell her "off" and she jumps off and stays off.


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## Westhighlander (Sep 28, 2007)

nikelodeon79 said:


> I think the reason people disagree so much on training techniques is because for each breed... heck for each individual dog, some things work and other things do not.
> 
> If Luna gets a "time out" she seems to be thinking "I wanna jump on the sofa I wanna jump on the sofa I wanna jump on the sofa" so as soon as the time out is up, guess what she does?
> 
> ...


Have you actually tried this? Social isolation is a powerful tool.


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## hulkamaniac (Feb 11, 2009)

Westhighlander said:


> Have you actually tried this? Social isolation is a powerful tool.


As someone pointed out that isn't the case with all dogs. Some dogs I think are born loners who tolerate two legged critters just because we feed them on a regular basis. It really does depend on the dog as to what punishment is appropriate.


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## nikelodeon79 (Feb 3, 2009)

Westhighlander said:


> Have you actually tried this? Social isolation is a powerful tool.


Why on earth would I revert to another method when my current one is working?

Have you tried this method with an Akita or a GSD?

I guess you can tell that I am not a huge fan of time outs... either with children OR dogs (note: I do not have any children).


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## hulkamaniac (Feb 11, 2009)

I've got a basset hound. If I ignored him he'd grab a rawhide and sit in the corner and chew on it. He wouldn't miss me at all.


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## Westhighlander (Sep 28, 2007)

hulkamaniac said:


> I've got a basset hound. If I ignored him he'd grab a rawhide and sit in the corner and chew on it. He wouldn't miss me at all.


The timeout area should have nothing in it. It should not be a place where they can have fun in.



nikelodeon79 said:


> Why on earth would I revert to another method when my current one is working?
> 
> Have you tried this method with an Akita or a GSD?
> 
> I guess you can tell that I am not a huge fan of time outs... either with children OR dogs (note: I do not have any children).


I'm not suggesting you revert. I'm asking you if you tried this method before dismissing it. I don't have a GSD or an Akita but all dogs should want to be with the pack if not then they are not wired correctly.


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## Mac'N'Roe (Feb 15, 2008)

rambler said:


> Get an ecollar. Next time she jumps up there give her a blast.
> 
> Problem solved.
> 
> The technology is available- use it.


Wow rambler, still using this one heh??? LOL.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

Rambler do have a one track ooopps! one button mind.


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## cshellenberger (Dec 2, 2006)

rambler said:


> Get an ecollar. Next time she jumps up there give her a blast.
> 
> Problem solved.
> 
> The technology is available- use it.


*NEVER, EVER USE AN ECOLLAR ON A PUP!!!!*

E collar can do serious psycological damage especially when used on a very young pup.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

cshellenberger said:


> *NEVER, EVER USE AN ECOLLAR ON A PUP!!!!*
> 
> E collar can do serious psycological damage especially when used on a very young pup.


Carla
I think you're beating a dead horse, to some, the e-collar is like the coming of the messiah, it will solve all problems. I got to admit it's the 1st time I've heard somebody advising it's use on a puppy. As I have said many times on different threads, puppies like babies can do no wrong.


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## hulkamaniac (Feb 11, 2009)

wvasko said:


> Carla
> I think you're beating a dead horse, to some, the e-collar is like the coming of the messiah, it will solve all problems. I got to admit it's the 1st time I've heard somebody advising it's use on a puppy. As I have said many times on different threads, puppies like babies can do no wrong.


Well, I think babies need rules, boundaries and limitations the same as puppies do. I do not think that using an e-collar is the proper way to enforce them. The e-collar is a very extreme device IMO and should *only* be used by a professional trainer and even then *only* in very extreme cases if at all. A dog jumping on a couch is not an extreme case.


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## im_nice1 (Mar 12, 2009)

-e-collars are a no-deal.

-We've tried the tin foil method and she just jumped on the foil too gleefully. i've tried hauling her off physically but she still jumps up a second later.

-the behavior has become worse in that she is still jumping on the couch, gets very excited on it and pees more often on it.

-She does listen sometimes to my husband's 'off' commands and doesn't attempt so much sofa-jumping when he is around. (only a little)..so I guess she has a 'pack leader' problem with me too re the sofa.

-Finally, we're going to try Hank simon's method of isolation for 3 days and see if it makes a difference (she is a very social puppy and doesnt like being alone at all). also plan to get the carpet covering for the sofa..but that can only be used if nobosy is sitting on it i guess.


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

im_nice1 said:


> -
> -Finally, we're going to try Hank simon's method of isolation for 3 days and see if it makes a difference (she is a very social puppy and doesnt like being alone at all). also plan to get the carpet covering for the sofa..but that can only be used if nobosy is sitting on it i guess.



Are you doing this with the guidance of a qualified behaviorist? Putting the dog in isolation for 3 days is intended for only the most severe behaviors...dogs that have very serious human/dog relationship problems but, you have to know how to modify those new behaviors when they come out of isolation.
The whole point of social isolation is to create NEW behaviors but, if don't reward and direct them you're back to square one. This technique should never be used for jumping on the furniture.


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## im_nice1 (Mar 12, 2009)

Tooneydogs....Hank simon did not recommend putting the dog in isolation for 3 days. (only from 30 sec to 2 min max progressively...but trying this for 3 days consistently). i dont know whether it will work (and ive already tried nearly all other recommended solutions) but i dont think 30 sec of being alone will harm our hyper puppy, ..but anyways we will ask our puppy trainer first about the method and then try it.


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## cshellenberger (Dec 2, 2006)

Instead of Hank Simon's suggestion, try this by Dr Ian Dunbar a Veterinary Behaviorist. Dunbar is the 'inventor' of Puppy Classes. 


_____________________________________________________________________________


Puppies are naturally noisy and hyperactive. Puppies are exuberant when greeting, playing, and when expressing friendliness and appeasement. However, adult dogs are noisy and hyperactive because they are untrained and have unintentionally been encouraged to act that way. For example, eagerly jumping puppies are petted by people, who later get angry when the dog jumps up as an adult. The dog's only crime? It grew!
Sadly, adult dogs receive considerable abuse for expressing their enthusiasm and exuberance. For example, "The Trainers from the Dark Side" recommend teaching a dog not to jump up by shouting at the dog; squirting him in the face with water or lemon juice; swatting him on the nose with a rolled-up newspaper; yanking on the dog's leash; hanging the dog by his choke-collar; squeezing the dog's front paws; treading on his hind paws; kneeing the dog in the chest; or flipping the dog over backwards. Surely these methods are a bit cruel for a dog that's just trying to say hello. Indeed, in the words of Confucius, "There is no need to use an axe to remove a fly from the forehead of a friend." Why not just teach dogs to sit when greeting people?

Be smart. Be kind. Teach your puppy (or adult dog) to settle down and shush when requested and how to greet people in a mannerly fashion. Both dog noise and exuberance may be controlled and channeled into appropriate outlets.

*Sit and Settle Down*
Lure-reward train your puppy or dog to come, sit, and lie down. Simple instructions such as "Sit" and "Lie down" are extremely effective solutions for nearly all doggy activity problems. Rather than telling the pup "No, no, no!" and "NO!" for everything she does that annoys you, simply ask her to lie down, and then praise and reward her for doing so. If she lies down obediently, she cannot run around the living room, chase her tail, chase the cat, hump the cat, jump on the furniture, jump up and down in the car, run out the front door, or chase and jump on children. Lying down and most behavior problems are mutually exclusive; your dog cannot lie down and misbehave at the same time. Take the initiative and direct your puppy's behavior by teaching her to lie down on request.

Rather than feeding your puppy from a bowl, weigh out his kibble in the morning and use individual pieces as lures and rewards during oodles of five-second training interludes throughout the day. Practice in every room of the house, in the car (while stationary), and on walks. Pause every 25 yards and instruct your puppy to perform a series of body positions: for example, sit-down-sit-stand-down-stand. Within just a couple of days you'll have a totally different dog. 

Simple reward training methods work wonders with out-of-control adolescent and adult dogs. Hold a piece of kibble in your hand but don't give it to your dog. Stand perfectly still and give no instructions; simply watch to see what your dog does. Characteristically, the dog will run through his entire behavior repertoire. Your dog will wiggle, waggle, circle, twirl, jump-up, lick, paw, back-up, and bark...but eventually he will sit or lie down. Praise him and offer the piece of kibble as soon as he sits (or lies down—your choice). Then take a gigantic step (to reactivate Rover), and stand still with another piece of kibble in your hand. Repeat the above sequence until Rover sits immediately after you take each step and then begin to progressively increase the delay before offering the kibble. Maybe count out the seconds in "good dogs"—"Good dog one, good dog two, good dog three, etc." If Rover breaks his sit while you are counting, simple turn your back on him, take a three-second timeout, and repeat the sequence again. In no time at all you will be able to count out 20 "good dogs" as Rover sits and stays calmly, looking up at you expectantly. 

Move from room to room repeating this exercise. When walking Rover, stand still every 25 yards and wait for him to sit, then praise him and continue the walk. After handfeeding your dog just one meal in this fashion indoors and on one long walk with sits every 25-yards, you'll have a calmer and much more attentive dog.

*Jumping Up*
Jumping up deserves a special mention because it is the cause of so much frustration and abuse. Right from the outset, teach your puppy to sit when greeting people. Sitting is the obvious theoretical solution because a dog cannot sit and jump up at the same time. However, it may initially be difficult to teach your dog to sit when greeting people because he is so excited that he doesn't hear what you say. Consequently, you will need to troubleshoot his training.

First practice sits (as described above) in locations where your dog normally greets people, e.g., on-leash outdoors, and especially indoors by the front door. Then invite over ten friends for a dog training party. Today your dog's dinner will be handfed by guests at the front door and by friends on a walk. After eventually getting your dog to sit to greet the first guest, praise your dog and have the guest offer a piece of kibble. Then ask the guest to leave and ring the doorbell again. In fact, repeat front-door greetings until your dog greets the first guest in a mannerly fashion three times in a row. Then repeat the process with the other nine guests. In one training party you will probably practice over a hundred front-door greetings. Then ask your all your guests to leave one at a time and walk round the block. Put your dog on leash and walk around the block in the opposite direction. As you approach each person, instruct your dog to sit. Praise him when he does so and have the person offer a couple of pieces of kibble. After five laps, you will have practiced 50 sidewalk greetings. Now your dog will be ready to sit to greet bona fide guests at home and strangers on the street.

*Put Doggy Enthusiasm and Activity on Cue* To be fair to your dog, make sure that she has ample opportunity to let off steam in an acceptable fashion. Sign up for flyball and agility classes. Play fetch with tennis balls and Frisbees and do yo-yo recalls (back and forth between two people) in the park. Formalize "crazy time"—train your dog to jump for bubbles, or play "tag" and chase your dog around the house. And maybe train your dog that it is acceptable to jump up on cue—to give you a welcome-home hug.
To learn more, read Doctor Dunbar's Good Little Dog Book. To locate puppy, adolescent, flyball, and agility classes in your area, contact the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.com .
AttachmentSizeHyperDog.pdf182.29 KB


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

I'll try to make this as clear as possible.....social isolation/time-outs are used to change the dogs social attitude(s)/interaction with PEOPLE. It is not to used for jumping on furniture, chewing the table legs, bolting out the front door, peeing on the carpet, etc.
You rewarded her for jumping down and now, the only way she can get that reward is to jump up first....then down. 
Why aren't you taking the direct approach of stopping her BEFORE she jumps and immediately rewarding her for NOT jumping?


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## im_nice1 (Mar 12, 2009)

_Why aren't you taking the direct approach of stopping her BEFORE she jumps and immediately rewarding her for NOT jumping?
_

Tooneydogs..I've tried it numerous times by saying no/off/putting my hand in front of her face/and standing between her and the sofa...and then treating her if she listens. she eats and just jumps up a second later on another section of the sofa. (she finds something about the leather very exciting). 

we tried putting tinfoil on the sofa; spraying bitter apple and furniture repellent on the sofa and I even leash her to myself to limit her access to the sofa (cant do that 24 hrs). and today am going to get the carpet protector cut and then try that too. (nothing has limited her till now)

The problem is getting worse because now she has started using the leather sofa as a regular peeing area...barking with excitement and casually peeing...and thats kind of gross coz thats where we and all our guests sit.

If you have any other ideas on how to stop the puppy before she climbs on the sofa let me know.

And carla: ive also tried to get her to 'sit' BEFORE jumping on the sofa and then praising her and giving her a play toy...with the same logic that she cant do 2 things at one time. she sits-eats treat-and then jumps up.


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## TooneyDogs (Aug 6, 2007)

im_nice1 said:


> [I've tried it numerous times by saying no/off/putting my hand in front of her face/and standing between her and the sofa...and then treating her if she listens. she eats and just jumps up a second later on another section of the sofa. (she finds something about the leather very exciting).


That's called an extinction burst. She always got rewarded for jumping down ...now she's getting rewarded for not jumping up. In the meantime you're paying attention for getting up AND for getting down. You look at the sofa as being the 'main attraction'....it's not. This is all about getting your attention...that's what she really wants.
The peeing on the sofa is called social marking....she's now very, very confused about why you're upset on the one hand but rewarding her in almost the same breath....she doesn't know what you want. The good news is that she's sending you the strongest possible message that she wants to be closer to you even in the face of all this confusion. Some dogs would start growling and biting out of frustration. 
You have to be consistent...no jumping gets rewarded but, you have to be critical about when that reward comes. She must back away from the sofa.....showing that she understands to stay back/stay away. That's when the reward is given.
If you find her on the sofa (hopefully you can catch her before she settles in) you have to pay as little attention as possible. Distract her/redirect her....what does she come running for? Scraping dinner plates into the garbage? The jingle of car keys? Use anything but your physical presence (direct attention) to get her arse off the sofa. 
Keep focusing on stopping the jumping before it happens....you will be successful if you're consistent.


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## hanksimon (Mar 18, 2009)

In my opinion Ian Dunbar can do no wrong. His research and Karen Pryor's efforts helped turn dog training around. 

My suggestions for time-outs are derived from my training based on his methods as well as Pryor's (no, my wife does not use that approach on me 

My assumption is that the sofa jumping is self-rewarding (like barking, eating, digging, etc.), and that the owner hasn't been able to re-direct, therefore the gentle but directive time-out may help.

I am happy to hear that this method works with terriers. I have found that they are sometimes too independent or too focused for a time-out to be effective.

I have used the time-out on GSDs. Haven't used it on Akitas or Huskies, and I wouldn't expect it to work on those dogs as adults.

But I am looking forward to hearing results of the 3-day test.

- Hank Simon


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