# New dog biting old dog. Need to stop this NOW!



## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

We adopted a 1-yr-old beagle mix from the pound about two weeks ago. We have a 10-yr-old husky mix already. The husky mix is easy-going, so we thought that we wouldn't have a problem introducing a new dog to the household.

We didn't anticipate the new dog attacking the old dog.

He takes his toys, takes his bed, takes his food, chases him and bites him on the leg, and cuts in when we are trying to give the husky attention. We had him leashed all the time at first, which of course stops this behavior if he physically can't get to the other dog. But the humans in this house have a life too, and we just can't be holding a leash 24 hours a day. So we have been gradually letting the new dog off leash, and whenever he's excited he attacks the other dog. And he steals the dog's toys and chases him to the point where now if the husky has a toy, he just drops it before the beagle gets to him.

Yesterday, the beagle bit the husky on the leg when they were running around outside so that he yelped, though there was no blood. I was trying to get to them, but couldn't run fast enough. I scolded the beagle right away, and then put him in his crate for a little while. Not as punishment, but so that the older dog could have a break for being harassed.

If I had known this would happen, I would never have brought the new dog home. My husband is pretty fed up, too.

We are trying to be patient, but if this doesn't work, the new dog will have to go back.

I am desperate for help!


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## rosemaryninja (Sep 28, 2007)

First of all, get a crate and crate the beagle mix every single time you cannot watch him.

Do you know what triggers these attacks? How does the beagle react to dogs on walks?


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

We are crating him when we can't watch him and at night. The behavior happens right in front of us.

On walks... it depends. If all of us are together (both dogs, me, DH, and DS) the beagle howls and bays at other dogs. If I'm walking him alone, he's quiet and friendly.

The behavior is usually when he's excited - when I am playing with the dogs in the yard, or this morning when I first let them out and the wind was blowing really hard, which excited him. Or if the other dog has anything at all that the beagle wants - a bone, a toy, etc.

Also, I am wondering if the beagle is jealous of my attention. Because the crate is in the living room, and the beagle had separation anxiety when we first got him, I have been sleeping on the sofa to calm him down. The husky sleeps in the bedroom, with my husband. (on the floor by the bed). So I'm wondering if the beagle is too close to me, and if I should start sleeping in the other room again. I'd love to have my own bed back, but don't want to cause him to regress with using the crate now that he's finally starting to get comfortable in it.

The crate doesn't fit in our room or we'd have him in there. It's a tight fit with the furniture already.

(Right now, however, the beagle is perfectly fine with the husky. Both dogs are in the living room while my son eats his breakfast and I get ready to take him to school.)


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## Cracker (May 25, 2009)

I doubt the dog is trying to assert his dominance over you or the other dog. In my experience this sort of behaviour is often rooted in anxiety, resource guarding and displaced aggression when over stimulated being symptoms of the anxiety itself. You say he also has separation anxiety, not unusual for a rescue but distressing.

You have only had him two weeks so the stress of the new household etc can be overwhelming..some rescue dogs do NO bad behaviours and practically are shut down for the first couple of months in a new home and some exhibit immediate behavioural difficulties. Looks like you have the latter. 

I can only tell you what I would do in this situation:
Have the dog vet checked for thyroid and lyme disease. Low levels of thyroxin, even JUST subclinical (meaning no overt signs of disease, like weight gain, sluggishness, dry coat etc) can cause changes in mood and temperament, including anxiety and aggression/hyperstimulation. It is important to request a full panel, not just the typical T4 test.

I also highly recommend that you pick up a DAP diffuser (dog appeasing pheromones). It doesn't work for all dogs but I personally have had great success with Cracker's anxiety issues simply by having the plug in..in fact I can see changes in her behaviour when it starts to run out (they last about a month). DAP diffusers are kind of like a glade plug in, with a bottle of oil that heats up and contains lavender and the pheromones of a lactating female dog...the idea being that it reminds them of their mothers before they were weaned. Cool eh?

Continue to crate, and monitor (leash on) for overexcitement and bad behaviour towards the other dog.

When you see the dog start to "hype up" or go to steal the other dogs things, use the leash to remove him, have him sit and reward him for LEAVING the other dog alone. Beagles are VERY food motivated so he should get the hang of this quickly.

Institue NILIF..no freedom, petting, food etc unless he says "please" by giving you a sit or other obedience behaviour.

Speak to your rescue about behavioural assistance, some of them offer training or behaviour advice as new adoptees often have difficulties adjusting and the rescue would most likely do what they can to ensure he has a good permanent home rather than have to take him back. (But I would be wary of any "dominance" style training...especially in a dog showing symptoms of anxiety).

Make sure your husky gets lots of good support and one on one time too and reward what has been his incredibly tolerant behaviour towards the new guy.

If you can afford it, find yourself a good positive reinforcement based trainer to help come in, assess the behaviour and help guide you towards a humane resolution of the issues. 

I hope this post has been helpful.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Thanks, Maggie. I really can't afford any expensive veterinary tests right now. But I will focus on rewarding him for good behavior (which I have been doing) and keep giving the husky one-on-one time. I think I'm going to have to use the crate more to isolate the beagle when I'm with the husky, as he gets upset when I take the husky out by himself (clawing at the door, peeing on the doormat.) I didn't want to over-use the crate, but I may have to start doing that until he calms down.

Our shelter does have a trainer who is a resource, but this gentleman, though very nice, isn't terribly helpful. I emailed him and he didn't have much to say other than to keep him on the leash.

And I'll try the "please" routine.

Thank you so much!

PS I should add that the beagle really is a charming little fellow when he's not acting up, and we really are glad to have him.


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## Cracker (May 25, 2009)

I'm glad to hear that.
I totally understand the money thing..really. LOL

Make sure the little guy has awesome stuff whenever you crate him to keep the crate a good place to be, maybe put a blanket over it if he likes the privacy.

Good luck.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Yes, about the money, neither my husband nor myself is working at the moment. Which means we have plenty of time to break in the new dog but... Yeesh!


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

I'd have to wonder why someone would adopt a dog when no one in the family is working. They're not money makers, they're a luxury for you to spend your disposable income on.


The dogs need to be slowly introduced. That means maybe 30 minutes a day for a week, then 60 minutes, etc. Pick up the toys and beds, and the stuff they fight over. Slowly add stuff back in once they're okay playing together.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

jesirose said:


> I'd have to wonder why someone would adopt a dog when no one in the family is working. They're not money makers, they're a luxury for you to spend your disposable income on.
> 
> 
> The dogs need to be slowly introduced. That means maybe 30 minutes a day for a week, then 60 minutes, etc. Pick up the toys and beds, and the stuff they fight over. Slowly add stuff back in once they're okay playing together.


A. I will start teaching in a few weeks. I'm a college professor. We have money set aside for this dog, and paid the $125 adoption fee to the shelter, the vet bill for his well visit, bought him toys, food, etc. My husband is in construction and is routinely laid off for short periods between jobs. Please don't jump to conclusions! We specifically adopted the dog now so that one or the other of us could be home most of the time to train him.

B. It is impossible to "slowly introduce" these two dogs. How would we separate them? Our house is too small. The living/kitchen/dining is all one area. The only way to do that would be to crate one or confine the other to the bedroom all day, which would only cause more behavior problems!


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

Yes, they should be crated and confined, and kept apart for most of the day. Let one out when you crate the other.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

jesirose said:


> Yes, they should be crated and confined, and kept apart for most of the day. Let one out when you crate the other.


And I repeat, this is totally impractical, in addition to which the dogs will resent being confined and separated from the pack, and behavior will certainly worsen. I am sure that our older dog will not understand why he has been banished to the bedroom, and will start peeing and chewing. The younger dog will feel more anxious, also, and we will lose the progress we have made with his crate training. This is just common sense.

Since the biting is infrequent, and usually occurs when the younger dog is excited, I am convinced that Cracker's advice will do the trick. So far today, the dogs have been perfectly fine together except for a brief incident in the yard this morning.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

I love when people ask for advice and immediately refute it.

If neither dog is comfortable being on their own for a while, you have a big problem.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

It's not a question of being on their own 'for a while.' You are stating that for _all but 30 minutes a day_, one or the other of them has to be isolated from the rest of the family. That is just ridiculous as well as impractical. I won't confine the older dog, who has been nothing but patient with the newcomer, for something that is absolutely not his fault. And yes, he would probably start exhibiting bad behavior after a day or two, because he would be frustrated and unhappy. 

As well, since the shelter personnel told us to keep the new dog with us all the time we are home, the old dog would be perpetually isolated. Which of course, we can't do. It's just not fair or right.

Not only that, "slowly introducing" is moot at this point, for the new dog has been with us for almost two weeks now. When they were introduced by shelter personnel, (who are just as dog-matic as you are in their advice ;-) ) they told us the two dogs should be absolutely fine together. They did not recommend isolation, just leashing for the beagle until he learns the rules of the household. It's probably our fault for not leashing him for the full two weeks, but as I said originally, the humans in this house have lives too and it's getting really difficult to be on the other end of that leash all day.

I confess, some of the "snapping" on this thread is my fault, because I gave a more strongly worded original post than the situation really warrants, because I have learned that mild posts don't garner replies. So yes, we are frustrated about this situation, and concerned that it may not work out, but the problem is really only occasional - particularly when the new dog is excited. 

We really do want to stop the behavior a.s.a.p., however, so these dogs can learn to get along amicably all the time. We are trying to be patient; apparently we need to continue doing so.

I don't think your solution is a good one in our case because a) they are already introduced and b) it doesn't really address the issue of what to do when the behavior occurs. It only postpones the behavior until whenever the dogs are interacting again.

I posted because I wanted to find out if there is anything we should be doing to correct the problem when it occurs that we aren't already doing. Like, I don't know, hooting like an owl and flapping our arms because it triggers some kind of canine response to prevent biting. 

I didn't come here to get into an argument. You've gotten my hackles up. Now I'm going to put myself in time out.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

I don't find it ridiculous or impractical. My dogs are only together for a small part of the day, yet they get plenty of attention, exercise, training and what not. Neither feels "left out". I've only had the second dog 3 weeks so they're past the 30 minute a day limit, but they still spend the majority apart. Most of the day one is with me. 

I feel if a dog cannot be confined without acting out, there is a problem still. 

Slowly introducing can still work, because there is obviously a problem, and by starting over you can remove the problem.

You seem to have ignored the rest of the post I made about removing the trigger items like toys and beds. 

You have gotten a lot of other good advice from posters. You're not going to get a quick fix like an owl sound because it does not exist. Dogs are not robots. There is no magic button. 

If you don't let them get to the point of the fight so often, it will get better faster than if you let them start fights and try to punish them.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

Good job on reading my post. You're not going to see the point of view, so why don't you try the OTHER IDEAS OTHER PEOPLE posted, instead of trying to criticize my way? (which is working great for our dogs, and people in my classes have had success with as well, but okay)


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

I just came back to delete my post. I should not have allowed myself to get into this argument. My apologies for sinking to this level, so common on advice forums.


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## MegaMuttMom (Sep 15, 2007)

Hardymum said:


> I just came back to delete my post. I should not have allowed myself to get into this argument. My apologies for sinking to this level, so common on advice forums.


Please don't give up on the forum. There are a lot of helpful people here. I have been trying to formulate an appropriate response to Jesirose and I have been stumbling on my words.

I do know if I crated my current dog that much when introducing a new dog, I would just be creating problems.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

MegaMuttMom I'd love to hear any responses. 

But if you're going to ask how long I've had the second dog, or my first dog, or ignore the stuff I already posted, it won't be worth it


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Thank you for your reply. I don't know if the extended crating method works with puppies; it might. I've never had a puppy, just these two rescue dogs. And you certainly can't treat an arthritic senior dog like you would a puppy. I shouldn't let myself get this frustrated, though. I'm old enough to know better!

;o)


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## MegaMuttMom (Sep 15, 2007)

jesirose said:


> MegaMuttMom I'd love to hear any responses.
> 
> But if you're going to ask how long I've had the second dog, or my first dog, or ignore the stuff I already posted, it won't be worth it


I think you were harsh and judgmental with the OP. Saying what works for you is very different than calling someone out for getting a dog without a job and insisting that they reject advice when they clearly were listening to advice given earlier on the thread.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

When she explained why they are out of work, did I continue to "call out"? No...I saw that they actually had a good reason for doing it now, and did not bring it up again.

If she simply ignored my advice I would not have replied, but instead she called it impossible, ridiculous, and impractical. Yet I'm being judgemental? Yes, she did reject my advice, so I suggested she go back to the other advice. Not sure where there is a problem. 

I said she was rejecting MY advice because despite her resolution that it would not work, she continued to ask about it and then argue why it won't work. If you think it won't work, don't discuss it more. If you actually have questions about it, I'm going to assume you would consider it, not just immediately go back to "impossible".


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## Independent George (Mar 26, 2009)

I apologize if I'm being harsh, but in defense of Jessi:

1. You can't claim you don't have the money for expensive vet tests, while saying that you put aside enough money to cover the dog's expenses while you and your husband were between jobs. By definition, that is NOT putting money away for the dog. That's not jumping to conclusions; that's drawing exactly the right conclusion based on the pertinent information. Moreover, the tests being recommended - thyroid and lyme disease screening - are potentially life-threatening. And if your husband is in construction during the worst construction market in over thirty years, and you are (I assume) an adjunct or associate professor when every endowment in every university has dropped at least 40%, then, yes, it is entirely reasonable to question whether this was the best time for a new dog. And if you're a full professor, then, to put it bluntly, I have trouble believing that you can't afford the tests.
2. Is it impractical to separate your dogs all but 30 minutes a day? Absolutely. But if you're seriously worried about aggression, it may be necessary. You're asking for advice on what to do short of giving the dog up. That's exactly what you got. There are no magic solutions here that involves solving a serious situation with minimal effort. If you can't put the time into it, then you should absolutely give up the dog. 
3. In truth, I'm not actually sure the full isolation Jessi recommends is the best answer, but I'm really, really troubled by the 'we have a life, too' defense. There are two adults in your household who, as you have stated, are not currently working. To me, that means that at least one of you will have time to monitor your dog for the entire day. If the isolation & gradual re-introduction is your last option, you have a choice to either put the time into it, or not.


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## digits mama (Jun 13, 2007)

Hardymom..there is a block member option that you can use right about now.


Jesi...You were very rude right from the absolute start. Get over her not taking your advice.. Your very first post, the very first line proved to her that you are not capable of being heard.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

I don't care if she takes my advice or not, honestly. I told her there was lots of good advice on here. 

I'm not sure what my questioning the idea of getting a dog when no one is working proves except concern for the dog's well being. If you can't afford a vet, you can't afford a dog. But as I already said, she explained why and I see no problem with it. I do think you should have money set aside, but oh well. Not sure how that impacts the other part of my post. 

Pretty sure the thread isn't about me, guys. It's about the dog. If you have a problem with my "attitude", report it. The moderators have no problem editing and deleting my posts.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

I am not going to explain myself further. This is just getting way out of hand! I know that "pet people" get as emotional about pet care, as moms do on forums discussing their kids, and this is what it is turning into.

Please, everyone, just drop it. I am very sorry for stirring up this controversy. I should have seen where it was going and just stopped replying, but I admit the personal attacks made me reckless. Thank you to those who were helpful. To everyone else, I will just say that I am giving you credit for being intelligent and responsible; please do the same for me.

Have a good evening, everyone!

PS Jesirose - I apologize for calling your solution ridiculous. I don't think it would be practical for us, but obviously it has worked for you and for others, so it isn't ridiculous.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

I understand what jesirose is trying to explain to you and she is correct. Your thread says "dog being bit, must stop now" *There is no magic wand* She is giving you advice on how to stop the biting *now* The only 100% foolproof method is to seperate the dogs. This is a necessary evil until things settle in and calm down and dogs adjust.

As a trainer who has occasionally had some butt kicking dogs in home at the same time the answer is to crate dog at different times so that both dogs can get quality time while not being crated. When you have 2 large protection dogs that may not like each other being out at same time is not an option. This immediately stops any biting. 

What you have to do is going to take time. The idea is to keep each dog safe while other dog is out with owners. You said you were keeping beagle crated while husky was out so keep on doing what you're doing. Your beagle is also in the teen-age years, that is not helping and then you and husband are used to an older, quieter, mannerly type dog and all of a sudden you have the wild and woolly beagle. The whole family is going through an adjustment period.

I would advise getting back in your own bed and stop all the worrying about the beagle he will survive in his crate in the living room. You and other half have to get a good nights sleep because you need your strength to handle all the everyday problems. I would worry more about the older dog's needs as he has earned a retirement program.

I have said this many times 1 dog good, 2 dogs sometimes 2 steps the other side of insanity. Especially in a small home/apartment whatever. You may be mentally and environmentally over dogged.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Dear Wvasko,
Thank you for your reply. You explained it in a way that makes sense to me, and addresses my concerns about the older dog. I do feel he has earned a peaceful retirement. And you are right, my original post was worded in an urgent manner. I was upset this morning when I posted it.
The irony is that while all this discussion has been happening today, the two dogs have been getting along beautifully!
The reason I felt it necessary to sleep near the beagle is that he was clawing his crate so frantically, I was afraid he'd catch a claw in the wires and tear it. Our older dog tore a claw once, which required surgery to repair, and I didn't want this dog to do the same thing. I also didn't want to add to his separation anxiety by traumatizing him, after he was "leashed on" to us all day, by then banishing him to another room. He is doing better now, however.
Thanks again. I know there is no "magic wand" but I wanted to see if anyone had any advice different from that which I had already received, and which might shed some new light on the situation.
Again, I apologize for getting heated.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

Hardymum said:


> PS Jesirose - I apologize for calling your solution ridiculous. I don't think it would be practical for us, but obviously it has worked for you and for others, so it isn't ridiculous.


I appreciate the thought. I'm sorry something upset you.

Glad to hear they're doing well today.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Thanks, Jesirose! 

To everyone: As a teacher, I can't help wanting to sum up today's experience. I was reminded of some of the basic principles of discussion - whether in person or Internet-based - that we all forget sometimes, including me!

* You can question an opinion, statement or idea, but don't question the intelligence, character or motives of the person making it.

* Always give the other person the benefit of the doubt.

* Before you respond to a statement that seems inflammatory, try saying it out loud with a couple of different inflections. Could you be taking something as an insult that was meant as humor, or simply an honest question?

* If someone offers you an explanation for something that was an issue in the discussion, acknowledge their explanation before going on. Otherwise, it seems as if you are ignoring everything but your own point in the argument.

* Try humor!

* If you are wrong, apologize.

* Don't post when you are upset.

* If all else fails, turn off the computer and go play with your dog!


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## spotted nikes (Feb 7, 2008)

Beagles can be high energy. If you aren't walking him for at least 45 min briskly in the am and pm, start. Also do some training with him on his recall (Come) as well as teaching tricks.

The training on the recall will help if he gets too wound up and you are worried he'll harass your other dog. Training for anything (obedience or tricks) works them mentally to tire them out.

If your older dog isn't physically up to taking long brisk walks, take the beagle only twice a day, and add in a short walk with both of them.

Institute NILF (found on these forums on sticky).


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## rosemaryninja (Sep 28, 2007)

Sorry I didn't come back to this thread earlier. You've received some very good advice from Cracker, jesi and wvasko. Your beagle is very high-energy, pretty much hitting his physical prime... too energetic for your senior husky. Both dogs need to spend some time away from each other. No need to change sleeping arrangements, no need to worry about leadership or dominance. Take it easy like wvasko said.

Yeah, the beagle-mix definitely needs to run off some energy and start using his brain. This will wear him out and cut down on hyperactivity.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

Good post.


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## Dogstar (May 11, 2007)

Jesi, I love you, but I have to disagree with this. While I do agree that intros need to be done slowly, I think 30 minutes a day is a very, very low amount. I think it's about accurate for play/interaction time, but that the dogs SHOULD be spending time together CALMLY- each dog on a family member's lap for petting, going on (on leash) walks together, etc. A babygate is great for this- one dog on each side means that no one is totally isolated from the family, and swapping out frequently. An exercise pen is another good option. 

All that said, SO much depends on the individual dogs.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

I have always stated that crates etc are weapons not only to keep dogs separated or out of troubled areas and the most important use of is so owners can step back relax their mental attitudes and then jump back into the fray. I don't think time limits or lack of is the problem. It's the calm rested mental attitude of the owners who are refereeing the dog games. When the owners stress levels go up that's when a loss of temper or mistakes can happen. You put one dog away and everything calms down. There are times as a trainer if a minor/major emergency happens at home and my stress is up I don't train that day. It doesn't happen often or I'm out of business, but the dogs I'm training are out in the kennels not in my home so it's easy for me to eliminate the problem. Not so with dogs in home. As a trainer I am on a rigid time schedule but owners with their dogs at home have all the time in the world as there is no rush.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Yes, the beagle is getting plenty of exercise, both walks and playing fetch. His motto is, "If you've got the ball, I've got the time!"

I just want to address the whole issue of time spent with the dogs, because it's really bothering me. I made the statement that "the humans in this house have lives, too" and was criticized for it, implying that I am not willing to spend time to acclimate our new family member. 

What I meant by "we have a life too" is that the leashing technique of training a new dog is very limiting for the human companion. I understand the principle - if the dog is leashed all the time it is much easier to correct behavior, which has been effective so far. But the problem is that it is difficult to do _anything _around the house while holding a leash, even if it's looped over your arm, and while the dog and leash are perpetually underfoot! You can't move freely about the house, or do anything that requires two hands - since the dog can jerk you at any time, causing you to drop or spill whatever you are holding. As well, the dog gets into everything you're doing.

So what I meant was that, although I am currently not working, I have only a few weeks before the start of my very busy summer session of classes. There are a number of tasks I need to get done before then. My husband and I take turns when we are both home, but it still is very restricting.

While I can't say it's been _unpleasant_ playing with the dog and doing minimal chores for the past week and a half, I need to get back into my normal life again. I *hope* everyone here can understand and sympathize with that!


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

Dogstar said:


> Jesi, I love you, but I have to disagree with this. While I do agree that intros need to be done slowly, I think 30 minutes a day is a very, very low amount. I think it's about accurate for play/interaction time, but that the dogs SHOULD be spending time together CALMLY- each dog on a family member's lap for petting, going on (on leash) walks together, etc. A babygate is great for this- one dog on each side means that no one is totally isolated from the family, and swapping out frequently. An exercise pen is another good option.
> 
> All that said, SO much depends on the individual dogs.


Well it doesn't have to be 30 minutes, that was just the number I started at for the first day, then slowly moved to much longer times. I didn't say keep them together for 30 minutes only EVER.  

I agree about the baby gate but I think she said their house is not very many rooms.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

jesirose said:


> Well it doesn't have to be 30 minutes, that was just the number I started at for the first day, then slowly moved to much longer times. I didn't say keep them together for 30 minutes only EVER.
> 
> I agree about the baby gate but I think she said their house is not very many rooms.


Both dogs are big enough to jump over the gates.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

Hardymum said:


> Both dogs are big enough to jump over the gates.


So can my 12 week old puppy  We're working on teaching her to respect the gate


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Your puppy is absolutely adorable, by the way!


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## Dogstar (May 11, 2007)

The thing about the leashing is that it is SO much easier to leash a dog to you for a few weeks (for a really smart dog without much drive who is old enough not to chew) than it is to try and fix things once he realizes that he can get far enough away from you that he can get into stuff for a few mintutes or more before you react. Slp the leash handle onto a belt, or get a Euro-style lead with a ring in the middle that you can clip the leash to. Use a head halter, a no-pull harness, or a prong collar (this would actually be my pick- your'e NOT pulling on it, but the dog is learning that yanking you around just DOES NOT WORK) to avoid the yanking around.


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

Hardymum said:


> Your puppy is absolutely adorable, by the way!


That's what I'm talking about, if you start a debate with jesi she throws those pup pictures at you and then you melt and she always wins. It just ain't fair.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

wvasko said:


> That's what I'm talking about, if you start a debate with jesi she throws those pup pictures at you and then you melt and she always wins. It just ain't fair.


Epic. 

It's true, the secret to my success is the cuteness. 
















Going off what dogstar said about the leashes, I attach carabeaners (sp?) to the end of all my leashes so that I can easily hook it to my belt, a table, etc. It helps a lot.


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## Eris13021 (May 16, 2009)

jesirose said:


> I don't care if she takes my advice or not, honestly. I told her there was lots of good advice on here.
> 
> I'm not sure what my questioning the idea of getting a dog when no one is working proves except concern for the dog's well being. If you can't afford a vet, you can't afford a dog. But as I already said, she explained why and I see no problem with it. I do think you should have money set aside, but oh well. Not sure how that impacts the other part of my post.
> 
> Pretty sure the thread isn't about me, guys. It's about the dog. If you have a problem with my "attitude", report it. The moderators have no problem editing and deleting my posts.


OKAY, i have to say she explained she'd be starting work again. 

Also I'm not working and i got a puppy but i also have an awesome vet who charges close to nothing for emergencies, spaying/neutering and shots. For one vet visit my vet charged me only $17.00 that was for office visit, ear mite treatment, nail clipping. 

Just because someone isnt making a bunch of money doesnt mean that they dont care about their pets. I hear that so often it gets ridiculus..

***also on a side note: im a veteran, so im not completely penniless)****


**********************************************************

NOW back to the original POST

While it may seem impractical, she does give you good advice. BUT you have to follow with what you can. I go with the leash at all times. Dont let them outside together alone, should be under direct supervision. My rottie loved many of the fosters that came in my home but many of them didnt like him. For example: I had a 18 month old male(neutered) eskie come in to my home, he was bossy, aggressive and very assertive with my rottie, doing pretty much what your beagle is doing. I did the separate thing. My rottie had run of the yard, the eskie was tethered either to me or to the porch, i was present. They never shared a room for over 5 months(i had the eskie for almost a year). SLowly the eskie calmed down, somewhat, and no longer tried to boss Mojo. I've got to say try whatever works for you. DO NOT give up it will work out over time doesnt happen over night

JAY



Hardymum said:


> The reason I felt it necessary to sleep near the beagle is that he was clawing his crate so frantically, I was afraid he'd catch a claw in the wires and tear it. Our older dog tore a claw once, which required surgery to repair, and I didn't want this dog to do the same thing. I also didn't want to add to his separation anxiety by traumatizing him, after he was "leashed on" to us all day, by then banishing him to another room. He is doing better now, however.


i've had dogs that do this. What i found that worked for me was when he/she was quiet, didnt dig,bark whine, i'd reward that behavior(i do the same thing when getting a dog used to confinement in any room using a gate). I also put a dark blanket over the crate too, it made the dogs i had more comfy. 

I wish you luck with this but it will pass he is new to you and you to him, he just needs time to adjust it may take weeks or months but it will eventually happen.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Okay, well I just tried to post some cute photos, but they didn't load for some reason. Rats!


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## Cracker (May 25, 2009)

Cracker is so happy to see everyone getting along again! Good list of things to keep in mind, Hardy's mum!

**shuffles around looking for Miss C's puppy pic...just to assess it's reactionary strength!*


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

Awwwwwwweeee


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Awwwwwww!!!!!

Okay, but seriously, why won't this work? I click on the "photo" icon above, enter the url of the photo, and nothing.










Okay, I tried adding a photo to my sig.

Testing. Let's see if this works. I hope so!

No, it didn't. ARGH!!! Oh well, nevermind.


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## jesirose (Mar 27, 2008)

Some hosting places won't let you hotlink. Upload the photo to tinypic.com


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

Even the photo I uploaded to my signature from my PC isn't showing up. I'm using Firefox and wonder if this a Firefox/Explorer issue. The website for work won't let me access certain things with Firefox.

So, I'll just put my other dog, Teddy, on my avatar so you can see him. He is such a handsome fellow!


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## wvasko (Dec 15, 2007)

I haven't had a problem with any of your pics back on link 44. I also use firefox.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

That is very strange.... I can't see them at all!!! All I see on the post are the words.

Oh well... at least _you _can see them.


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## Hardymum (May 19, 2009)

I just wanted to post an update for anyone who might be reading this. The dogs get along fine now. The beagle still nips at the husky when he's excited, but not as often, and I can distract him by throwing a ball. He LOVES to play fetch. I think he just feels more at home now, and I have learned to tire him out with fetch or a walk every morning and evening.

One of the other things that helped was giving him melatonin once a day, which helps keep him calmer. I don't give it to him all the time, but there are days when he's like an ADHD child or something, literally bouncing off the walls. When that occurs, a 3 mg melatonin tablet works wonders. My vet approved this, by the way.

Also, the beagle hates water. He was attacking (chasing and nipping) another dog that was visiting us, and I started shooting him with a supersized water gun every time he got near her, and that was very effective as a deterrent, as well.

Another thing that seems to have helped is that I took a two-week trip to visit family, and took the new dog with me. I think he really enjoyed the bonding, and I think the old dog felt like he had some time to re-establish his territory at home. I was a little concerned about the reunion, but our older dog was so happy to see us he couldn't stop smiling! God bless his little canine heart. And he's more assertive now, even taking toys away from the beagle at times. 

So, it seems to be working out.


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## GroovyGroomer777 (Aug 21, 2008)

Glad to see things are working out now.

I also have a dog (english bully) who hates water. I sprayed him every time he humped my other dog and he has not done it for 2 years. If he's doing something naughty I can make a spray sound "Pssshhh" and he stops what he's doing.

Thank goodness the older dog is happy...that is what saddened me the most about this thread.....our loyal old pups deserve to live their golden years in peace.


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## R.J. (Sep 16, 2009)

Nothings better than training your dog yourself


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