# Sticky  Keeping Your Dog Safe (or keeping Murphy's Law influence to a minimum)



## Elana55

Accidents happen. We do things all the time to keep our dogs safe.. but there are some basic things to consider that might help us all to have fewer dog accidents (and fewer vet bills). 

I am going to start this list.. and I really want others to add to it and if we get enough good ideas, maybe it could be a stickie. I am also going to add things to to keep other pets in the house safe from the dog(s) and things to keep dog(s) safe from other pets.

1.) Do not feed dogs together or together with other animals. Physically separate them from each other and other animals. I feed in kennel runs or crates and one meal gets fed by hand by me daily to prevent resource guarding. 

2.) Do not keep dogs and cats (or other pets) loose in the same area unsupervised.

3.) Supervise dogs that are out together playing.

4.) Unless you have a fenced yard, or are in a place with NO traffic, leash your dog before you open the door (even if you are not taking the dog out).

5.) Do not allow your dog to greet other dogs on leash. Dogs on leash are forced to greet face 2 face which can be construed by one or both dogs as "rude" and someone may start a fight.

6.) If you need to break up a dog fight grab the dog's hind legs and wheel barrow them backward out of the fight. 

7.) Be very careful feeding your dog Rawhide Treats (I don'tfeed them at all) as if swallowed hole, rawhide cannot be digested and can cause a blockage.

8.) Pick up your socks and clothes from the floor and put them away where the dog cannot get them. Some dogs will "eat" these things and will need E Surgery to remove the obstruction.

9.) Never give your dog corn on the cob or cobs sliced up or allow access to corn in a corn field (before or after harvest). Rural vets are experts at obstruction surgery to remove corn cob chunks from dogs. 

10.) Gate off swimming pools. Not all dogs can swim and not all swimming pools have a way for a dog to get out if they fall or jump in. 

Lets have some more....


----------



## spotted nikes

11) Don't allow puppies that have not been fully vaccinated (usually a series of 3 shots) out in areas where other dogs may have been.

12)If you have a fenced yard, walk the fenceline daily to check for places where the dog may have started digging, fencing may be loose, or neighbors may be throwing bones/food.

13) If you have a driveway where dogs/cats have access, bang on your hood of your car,and walk around your vehicle looking underneath it thoroughly, EVERY time you plan on driving it. 

14) Microchip all dogs and cats and update your info. Have vet scan it during the yearly checkup.

15)Keep all medicines/Tylenol, etc off counters where a dog could get to it. Same for chocolate and other toxic items.

16) If your dog has access to a garage, do not store poisons/pesticides/chemicals/antifreeze anywhere a dog or cat could get to it. Check under your car freequently to be sure it is not leaking antifreeze if parked in a driveway or garage. Do not leave rat poison/mouse poison where a dog can get it (many people put them behind refrigerators or in closets...don't do it if you evr leave a closet door open).

16)Keep your dog leashed, always, when outside in an unfenced area.

17) If you have gates to a fenced backyard, PADLOCK them. Too often, kids/workers will leave them open allowing a dog to escape.

18) Do not take your pet to fireworks events. Keep pets inside during fireworks.

19) Do not let your pet ride in the bed of a pickup truck.

20) When traveling away from home with your pet, get a pet tag with your cell ph # and a relatives home ph #. If they get lost, you may be in an area with no reception. This gives you a better chance of being reunited. Bring copies of your pet's medical records when traveling. Especially if your pet as/had a medical problem. If possible, bring the most recent CBC with you. Even if it was normal. All dogs have different values for what is "normal" for them. Gives a vet something to compare it to if he gets sick while traveling.

21) Get a CBC at least once when the dog is young and healthy, and again when the dog becomes a Senior. This can rule out problems as they age.


----------



## wvasko

An additive to poisons, in summer shut AC off in car a mile or so before home as sometimes antifreeze can overflow and leak on ground/garage etc.

When walking dogs in hot weather it sure doesn't hurt to have water handy for emergency, better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.


----------



## Nargle

These are all very good tips! Here's a couple more:

Don't leave dishes out. Even tiny dogs can figure out how to get onto a counter or table if they're determined enough, and if you're not in the habit of keeping everything clean and put up, your dog may just happen across something dangerous.

Find out if your houseplants are poisonous, and/or keep them hung up high where they can't be reached. 

Check your lawn frequently for sharp rocks or broken glass. Sometimes stuff gets unearthed and you don't realize it until there are bloody paw prints all over your house.

Always carry puppies when outside if they haven't gotten all of their vaccinations yet. Only let them on the ground where you know no other dogs have been.


----------



## Shell

Use a seatbelt harness or a crate whenever you travel by car/truck with your dog.


----------



## LazyGRanch713

Take the time to teach a drop on recall. It saved Auz's life. 

Don't leave plastic shopping bags with handles where your pet can reach them. We had a cat get his head caught, freak, and throw himself into a heart attack. The cat died...over a plastic bag sitting on a counter.

I would like to add to getting a CBC. Once a year when your dog is young and healthy, and TWICE a year if you have a senior dog with medical problems. Monitoring organ functions and catching problems before your dog becomes symptomatic can be a life saver, even if your senior dog "acts fine".

Remove cooked bones from the house promptly after dinner. Wrap chicken bones up in a trash bag and take it outside, and put it in a container that's as critter proof as possible.

Crate or remove your dogs from a room if you're moving heavy objects and/or furniture. Sounds like a no brainer, but Dude had his foot shattered by a refrigerator cart years ago. 

If you have cats, keep medications OFF the counter and put them in a cabinet. Even cats trained to not go on the countertops occasionally might, and if they knock down an open jar of medication your dog (or cat!) could eat them; and you might not realize it until they're really, really sick.

Keep your vets phone # programmed in your cell. If they don't do after hours emergency, find a place that does and program THAT number into your cell. If no cell, write the numbers and names and addresses down and hang them on your refrigerator. (If your dog is bloating, every second counts, and you don't want to waste precious time thumbing through the phone book to find an emergency care facility).


----------



## melaka

How about:
Don't leave a collar on your dog when unsupervised. The collar can get tangled in baby gates, crate bars, fences, wires or any number of things and strangle your poor dog. (It almost happened to mine when as a small puppy she tried to jump a plastic garden fence and her tags got caught.) If you feel you must keep a collar on, consider a breakaway or stretchy collar, like they have for cats.

Also, remove dogs' collars when they are playing with each other, even when supervised. They can get tangled together and can get seriously hurt or may not react well to being stuck together or the method used to free them.


----------



## ladyshadowhollyjc

As far as flea and tick control goes, talk with your vet about what he recommends. The products he sells at his office may be expensive, but they are effective and are much safer than the discount brands you'll find at Petwhatevers and grocery stores.


Whether or not you believe in yearly vaccinations, it is important for your pets to be seen for a yearly physical exam. People are always surprised at the problems we are able to catch early because of that yearly physical.


If you're going out of town and using a pet sitter, make sure they have the information of your veterinarian. It's never a bad idea (especially if you'll be gone a while) to call up your veterinarian's office and give them a heads up that you'll be leaving your animals in the care of someone and you give them permission to treat your animals if they happen to be brought in.


----------



## LazyGRanch713

CRATES: Use them. They're not cruel, they're not "nasty cage things", if you actually crate TRAIN. It's much better than coming home and finding your dog has chewed electrical cords, or decided to play Eat The Stuff Under The Sink. 

Have an emergency bag packed for your dog, with a few days' worth of food, vaccination papers, medications & instructions, and a safe way to travel your dog (crate/seatbelt harness/etc) just in case of an emergency or disaster.


----------



## ThoseWordsAtBest

Good, sound thread! I don't have much to add for now, other than to take some time to bone up on dog body language and specifically take note of your dogs. It can make the difference between a fight and knowing when to remove them from the situation before a fight starts.


----------



## foxthegoldfish

Keep an female dog that is in season in your sight at all times, and lock them up inside when you can't watch 100%
Sounds simple but so many owners I know keep their female dogs in their yards as they think their dog will be safe from males.

Keep your dog in a collar and restraint in the car, if you have a crash your dog will be safe and having the contact details on them because of the collar is very important, it also makes them easier to catch and restrain if they escape. 

When you come in from the rain/wet dry your dog first, esp the ears and face, this saves many vet bills as they don't get as many ear infections. 

If your dog doesn't want to greet another dog or person, trust them, you may not be picking up what they know.


----------



## Elana55

There are some REALLY great things here that I do but never thought to put on the list. 

#) If you leave your dog confined in a room take up and unplug or remove all electrical cords or appliances.

#) Check and clean your dog's teeth regulary.. an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure here (in addition to a lot of Vet Costs if you have to have teeth removed). 

#) Leave a current copy of your dog's information (current shots record, Micro chip number and orrganization contact, and photo of dog) in each vehicle glove box in case he goes missing or you have an accident and are unable to take care of him (doG forbid!).


----------



## melgrj7

Socialize your puppy to different people, dogs, sounds and sights.


----------



## KBLover

Teach and master all the basic positional and recall commands like sit, stay, lie down/drop, and recall. Master them. Practice them after they are mastered. Reward them constantly. Make these behaviors no-brainer automatic. Up the challenge in times of safety so if the chips go down and the crap has hit every fan possible, you still have a good chance to guide/direct/control your dog. Then do it all over again with a combination like sit during recall. Recall from lying down, etc. You never know when you might need to call your dog into or out of a position to your side or stop him from doing so. (still in process of this myself).

Teach your dog to go away from you to certain places. There's been times when I've protected Wally by sending him home while I block/contain a dog that's out to get him. Right now, he knows "gate" (go to back gate and wait), "porch" (go to front porch and wait), and "mail" (go to neighborhood mail boxes and wait).

This one is for the humans. Stay aware of your surroundings, where your paths are, your escape routes, and try to stay in a clear, safe area for retreat (or to do the above - sending your dog so he has a safe retreat available). Avoid questionable looking situations, especially at night. Trust your dog. If he's alert at what looks like nothing but pitch black - trust his instincts and go away from that area. Try to walk with your dog in a typical route often. Dogs CAN learn routes and landmarks that they see constantly. Wally can go home from the neighborhood park on his own because he knows the two routes we take to get there. Granted, it's not a mile away, but it's not just 20 feet either.

Bond with your dog in any way possible. A strong bond will make everything else possible. He will want to work with you, learn with you, stay with you, and seek you out when he's in trouble or senses trouble (and will probably also communicate that trouble). This is especially true if he's fearful. You don't want a scared dog bolting and shutting you out because he's in a panic. You want a scared dog that's clinging to you, looking to you for what to do next. Be decisive and safe in those situations, protect your dog, and he will lean on you naturally as survival is an instinct and if you're the dog's best chance of survival, guess what he'll stick to when trouble strikes?

This is something we're working on, but I want Wally to stay still and bark if he can't see me. That way I can follow his bark to where he is. Likewise, if I call him and he can't figure how to get to me, I want him to bark so we can "call to each other" and get back together if for some reason we get separated.


----------



## wvasko

When pups have proper vaccinations 5 months old approximately. You go out and find yourself a good, proper boarding facility and board your pups for 3 or 4 days. Do not wait till the dog is 3 years old because it can be an unnecessary shock to their systems. I don't care who says they will watch your dog/dogs for you because when the time comes they may not be able to keep care promises. Pups are pliable and accepting of changes done slowly and can handle it.


----------



## RedyreRottweilers

Great thread!

Heat can be a killer of dogs, especially certain short faced or heavy bodied breeds. In warm weather if your dog is going to be outdoors make sure the dog has free and continuous access to plenty of cool fresh water, and shade.


----------



## crysania

Know where your e-vet is. Find the place, find the quickest route there, and drive there a few times so that you know the way. If your dog is ill or injured you don't want to have to be google mapping directions and trying to find the place in the middle of the night while in a panic.


----------



## ladyshadowhollyjc

Rushing to the vet after your dog was hit by a car and is now quickly crashing is not going to make a difference if your vet is home for lunch and won't be able to make it back for another 20 minutes. ALWAYS call your vet if you have an emergency and need to rush in. I've seen a few cases where someone ran into our office during lunch and our doctor had gone to lunch and it would take him a while to get back. We had to direct them to the emergency clinic in a few circumstances and had they called first we could have either given the doc a heads up so he could met them back at our clinic or sent them directly to the e-vet and not wasted time with a detour at our office.


----------



## Adustgerm

In remembrance of Bob Barker, please get your pets spayed or neutered.


----------



## peekies

I absolutely agree and couldn't have said it better myself. I see so many families getting their kid a dog, and the kid is 4! That child can't take care of a dog. You have to wonder what some people are thinking. I'd say 10 or above for having a dog. Even then, a child will lose interest and it will become the parent's responsibility. I think a dog shouldn't be a present or something for you child. It's not a toy or a gift! The entire family needs to agree on it and ALL pitch in. Being a dog fanatic, I always get into heated discussions with families saying "I'm going to get my 2 year old a Chihuahua" or something smart like that. That poor Chihuahua won't last a week. I always hit them with these horror stories of what has happened to other families and try and get them to reconsider. The bad thing is, these people won't realize until it's too late usually.


----------



## ben46valdez

Very good tips more info below ....

Trick or treat can be a super anxiety causing for your pooch. Loud kids (and adults), strangers, scary costumes, and doorbells and knocks at the door, can quickly send your dog into a frenzied state. If he hates quests, put him in a locked room with food, water, and all his favorite toys. Also, you don't want him to run away when you open the door, bark, or (even worse) bite anyone. If you are keeping him out in the open, put him on a leash so he doesn't bolt out the door. You'll also be able to control him in case someone is afraid of dogs. Tell guests (especially kids) that they can pet your pup one at a time (only if your pup is super friendly and doesn't have a history of aggression though). To keep your pup calm, you can also tire him out with lots of playtime during the day, feed him before trick or treat, and spray him with a calming spray.


----------



## SWHouston

*Emergency Preparedness:*

Ok, I admit I'm a little obsessive compulsive about this, but...
I have an Envelope set up, located on the top of our Refrigerator.

It contains....

*1) Copies of Inoculations, brief Medical History (both dogs)

2) Phone Numbers, Addresses and a couple of Maps, for Regular and Emergency Veterinary Service locations.

3) List of Identification Numbers, City Tag, Electronic ID, other proof of ownership.

4) Neighbor's Phone Numbers, both sides.

5) Relatively recent Pictures of both animals. (just printouts off of the computer) with a few written in measurements for sizes (height/length/weight)

6) A small amount of cash (won't say just how much)*

The idea being...

*GRAB IT AND GO !*


----------



## quicklymyopic

Also, ensure that you have a lid on your garbage can, close the seats on the toilets, shut the grate/doors on the fireplace and - if you get him or her as a puppy - always play with them while they're eating. Mess with puppy's feet, nails, ears, and mouth. It will make your (and your vet's) job so much easier in the future and the dog won't be as nervous during shots and nail clipping.

Plus, as I've learned - nervous dogs can sometimes relax if they have a friend. I'm not saying this is the case for everyone, but our older dog relaxed and is simply happier now that he has a puppy to play with/occasionally despise. It keeps Jack from taking himself too seriously. 

Ditto on keeping your dog secure in the car. I just saw an article that said some people have the dog sitting in their lap with their paws on the wheel while driving. *shudder*


----------



## Pawzk9

LazyGRanch713 said:


> Take the time to teach a drop on recall. It saved Auz's life.
> 
> Don't leave plastic shopping bags with handles where your pet can reach them. We had a cat get his head caught, freak, and throw himself into a heart attack. The cat died...over a plastic bag sitting on a counter.
> 
> I would like to add to getting a CBC. Once a year when your dog is young and healthy, and TWICE a year if you have a senior dog with medical problems. Monitoring organ functions and catching problems before your dog becomes symptomatic can be a life saver, even if your senior dog "acts fine".
> 
> Remove cooked bones from the house promptly after dinner. Wrap chicken bones up in a trash bag and take it outside, and put it in a container that's as critter proof as possible.
> 
> Crate or remove your dogs from a room if you're moving heavy objects and/or furniture. Sounds like a no brainer, but Dude had his foot shattered by a refrigerator cart years ago.
> 
> If you have cats, keep medications OFF the counter and put them in a cabinet. Even cats trained to not go on the countertops occasionally might, and if they knock down an open jar of medication your dog (or cat!) could eat them; and you might not realize it until they're really, really sick.
> 
> Keep your vets phone # programmed in your cell. If they don't do after hours emergency, find a place that does and program THAT number into your cell. If no cell, write the numbers and names and addresses down and hang them on your refrigerator. (If your dog is bloating, every second counts, and you don't want to waste precious time thumbing through the phone book to find an emergency care facility).


In addition to the plastic bag thing, also be aware that dogs can suffocate in any lined food container (potato chip bag, cereal box, etc.) 
If you have agility equipment, NEVER leave a collapsed tunnel unattended where the dogs can get to it
If you have a swimming pool, be sure your dog knows how to get out of it, and don't give the dog unsupervised access
If you have chain link fence, be aware that dogs CAN catch a limb in it, and suffer a break (that one I know from personal experience, the rest I know from sad stories)


----------



## Charis

I would like to add to the emergency preparedness list (as I live in tornado alley and get some killer winter weather)
Do NOT forget your dogs when preparing for an emergency. In a bag I not only have supplies to sustain myself and my husband for a week but also our three dogs, cat and bird. 
My list for the dogs
- a week's worth of food for each animal plus a little extra (you never know when aid for animals may arrive, food for you may show up but food for rover it may not)
- a week's worth of water for each animal
- a large first aid kit
- treats
- extra medications (be sure to include a dose of heart worm medication and flea/tick treatment for each animal)
- extra leashes and tie out stakes (I would not normally tie out my dogs but in the event my house has been destroyed by a tornado I need to be able to keep them close and out of danger)
- travel water and food bowls for each dog
- blankets
- muzzle (to treat an injured dog)
- bags to clean up after the animals
- a few toys
- brush
- emergency blankets/sleeping bags
- folding shovel
- folding mess kit
- folding stove
- soap
- newspaper to use as a potty pad
- crates are in central location in the house away from windows
- a copy of medical records, shot records, adoption papers, recent photos
- Tent (to double as a crate/shelter)
To ensure I packed everything I needed I went over my dog's routine every day for a week and packed everything in the routine that the dogs could not survive without (and a few extras for comfort)
Our emergency bag remains in our hiding place during storm season so we don't have to bother grabbing it (and it's heavy with enough food, water and supplies for two people, three dogs, a cat and a bird). 
We also plan our arrangement in the closet so everyone will fit if the alarms go off, which animals I grab and which ones my husband grabs (saves precious seconds in a tornado)
We keep all leashes and seat-belt harnesses directly by the back door on hooks for quick access and if severe weather is in the forecast for the evening our dogs will drag their leashes around the house behind them and wear their seat-belt harnesses (they also function as a walking harness so they are comfortable) to save time (you only have seconds in a tornado) 
Every evening I assure no one has lost their rabies tags, ID tags or recovery tags in the activities of the day. 
I have vet contact numbers for a few offices in a few different surrounding towns/cities
My last piece of advice - please be honest about how much water each animal needs. Ask you vet how much your dog should drink a day if you aren't sure. We literally have two huge camping jugs of water (it takes me and hubbie to move one when it is full) and two cases of water bottles. 
I truly pray I will never need any of this but I would rather be prepared and never use it than have something happen and wish I had it.


----------



## SWHouston

Dogs on a Trip – Yea or Née
If it’s Business...umm maybe no,
But if it’s a Holiday... UOO YEA !

But, there’s a good possibility of problems, IF you’re not prepared.
I’ve listed some of the things I would take, but, what’s your opinion ?

Proof of Ownership – Documents, Shot Records, Electronic ID #.
Picture(s) – Recent frontal/profile, maybe with some measurements/weight written on them.
Picture(s) - Ones of you and someone else, and the Dog (ownership history validation)
Reliable Leash’s – short and long, just in case you need to “field” it for a while.
Harness – for security during transport and when on Leashes.
A good sturdy dedicated Collar, with indelible ID/tags – and a latch that’s nearly impossible to open.
Food – something that won’t spoil if left in a variant of temperature.
Bowls – maybe the collapsible type.
Meds – with administrations (spoon/measuring) in their own Zip-Lock bag or container.
Water – container(s) applicable to size of animal(s), a ? Day supply.
Potty Pad – with a small piece of Paper Towel (stored in a Baggy), previously dabbed in it’s Urine.
Crate – maybe for when you’re out to Dinner, and great to store/transport all the above stuff.
Toy(s) – something to help time pass, and make the strange area, seem a little closer to home.
Sleep Pad (seasoned) – can line the Crate, or brought out when confinement isn’t necessary.
Ancillary Items – Brush, Toothbrush/paste, Poop Bags, depends on length of trip.

And before you start:
A good search for accommodations which are amenable to hosting animals.
Printout of Vet(s) phone and address in route/at your destination(s).

What have I missed ?


----------



## amavanna

I was gonna actually start a thread about this but it seems more practical to put it here. A few days ago we actually saw a little garden snake outside, now I don't know what it is doing out in this cold I can't recall a single time I have seen a snake out in this kind of weather, but had I not seen it first Lela would have been all nose and no "knows" . I am going to get a fake snake and train her to be ..well afraid of it in a way. I am get a shaker can and put the snake on the ground and when she gets near it shake the can and say NO. My hope is that if she sees a snake she will just know to avoid it all together and around here it is just necessary because we do have poisonous snakes. I may look up more on how I want to train her to avoid it, but I for sure thought it was worth mentioning that things like snakes you can't always prepare for they are small and don't warn you of their existence unless it is a rattle snake, which is why I figure a shaker can would really work cause it would hopefully sound like a rattle.


----------



## SWHouston

amavanna,

Good luck with the Snake training !
I am very interested in hearing how that went.
But a sudggestion...
Maybe a Baby Rattle would better simulate the sound of a Rattler
or, you could get an actually Snake's Rattler, I've seen them around
at some of the Novelty Ships.
I'm just thinking on the training, that's one you ought get pretty close !

PS:
Charis, that's a very good list !


----------



## Charis

SWHouston said:


> amavanna,
> 
> Good luck with the Snake training !
> I am very interested in hearing how that went.
> But a sudggestion...
> Maybe a Baby Rattle would better simulate the sound of a Rattler
> or, you could get an actually Snake's Rattler, I've seen them around
> at some of the Novelty Ships.
> I'm just thinking on the training, that's one you ought get pretty close !


The snake training is an excellent idea in an area with rattlers and other dangerous snakes as a dog may engage a snake. Our lab kept a rattler from coming in the house and the rattler made several lunges trying to bite Dawson as he tried to kill it although I would have preferred Dawson bark and run out of strike range instead. 


SWHouston said:


> PS:
> Charis, that's a very good list !


Thank you!


----------



## amavanna

You know I never thought of a imitation snake rattle that might work. I wouldn't want to use a baby rattle cause I don't want her to be afraid of the rattle sounds ( in case we ever have the rare occasion we are around a baby) per-say as much of the actual snake itself. But I am still not sure how I want to train this but I know I want to because I have already seen that she would just walk right up to one if she had the chance. I am hoping someone will see this and go hey do this ama!


----------



## SWHouston

amavanna said:


> You know I never thought of a imitation snake rattle that might work. I wouldn't want to use a baby rattle cause I don't want her to be afraid of the rattle sounds ( in case we ever have the rare occasion we are around a baby) per-say as much of the actual snake itself. But I am still not sure how I want to train this but I know I want to because I have already seen that she would just walk right up to one if she had the chance. I am hoping someone will see this and go hey do this ama!


You have a very good point there, but given how discriminating a Dog's hearing is, the "real" rattler "tail" may be the best way to go.

Again, just as a sudggestion...
I have two "commands" which you may have similar ones for your animal.
I would give my "GET BACK" first, then...
the "SPEAK" command.
(HA please note the order, get out of the way FIRST, then bark )
Of course, it would take some rigorous training, to assure compliance.
Good Luck !


----------



## amavanna

Houston I like that how sounds, it not only prevents her from getting bit but gives me a warning so *I* dont get bit or doG forbid my kid if she is with us. I am working on speak but I think I would kinda need to change speak to almost an alert with this kind of thing. I guess the first thing I would get her to do is recognize "see snake back up fast!" and then I can work up to the bark once she is back to my side . ( Coarse this is assuming I can get her to get to my side we are still working on heel or side. ) I will be getting the fake snake soon and will work on it, if other people have dogs that are better trained then lela or have done some kind of snake avoidance training I would love to hear your results.


----------



## SWHouston

amavanna,

Thank you for your very kind words.
I know this is "other" than the usual "stay beside me" procedure,
which we normally train our Dogs to do...
But in the case of woods/brush/limited vision, I would humbly
recommend that you teach your animal to step out ahead of you,
and be specially willing to lead your child through such.

We all love them SO much, but need to remember
how much more qualified they are, to alert against threats.
My command to my animals to "take the lead" is "get get" 

One other thing...
I know that there are personally owned medications,
which can be carried (and injected) in instances where a human
is bitten by a poisonous snake. Surely that exist for K9's well.
I'll try to do a search to see if that is available, but,
if anyone knows of that, please mention it !

Have a good Day ! 
S.W.


----------



## Labmom4

Do not use cleansers in your toilets. You can get it plenty clean by just scrubbing it with a brush. Even if you're super careful to keep the lid closed, a guest might not and those cleansers can be deadly. Ditto for flushing old medicines down the toilet.


----------



## SWHouston

scorpio,

What a very thoughtful thing to do, and, not only for one's animals !

However, outside temperates occasionally make opening a window (even a little)
quite uncomfortable.

When using the Air Conditioning (cooling)...
Most vehicles have two modes. Regular, which influxes Fresh Air into the vehicle, and
a Recirculate or "MAX" mode. The Regular would be the one to choose for Fresh Conditioned Air.

In the Heat Mode...
All Vehicles (as far as I know) influx Fresh Air when heating.
So, you're covered there.

Other...
It's not necessary to provide an escape to accommodate for the influx
of Fresh Air. Vehicles are just not that well sealed, and in some instances
vehicles have a provision installed to allow flow. Usually via the Trunk.
and...
When in very heavy traffic, I usually turn the A/C to Recirculate in the Summer
or just shut the heat off for a while, rather than having the Carbon Monoxide
pulled into the Vehicle. (not good for either of us).


----------



## lucas85

Enjoy readining all of this. In my opinion one of the most important things to teach your dog is a stay command. That command itself saved my dog's life couple of times.

lucas


----------



## stopbsl

keep a extra slip collar and leash around so if your dog gets loose without a collar

yeah they use that for k9s


----------



## KodiBarracuda

Addition to 13 (two pages ago)

If you can, honk your horn before you turn it on. 

I once acutally had to pop my hood because a cat (chased by my dog) went into the engine from underneath and when I popped the hood, was sitting on top of the engine. Figure that one out, lol. I wouldn't have even seen her if I hadn't seen the dog chase her into my truck.
Honking the horn will usually scare what ever is in your vehicle that you cant see, out of it.


----------



## petshop

KodiBarracuda said:


> Addition to 13 (two pages ago)
> 
> If you can, honk your horn before you turn it on.
> 
> I once acutally had to pop my hood because a cat (chased by my dog) went into the engine from underneath and when I popped the hood, was sitting on top of the engine. Figure that one out, lol. I wouldn't have even seen her if I hadn't seen the dog chase her into my truck.
> Honking the horn will usually scare what ever is in your vehicle that you cant see, out of it.


Well i think it scare whats everything in your vehicle when start it.


----------



## KodiBarracuda

petshop said:


> Well i think it scare whats everything in your vehicle when start it.


You * think* but I *know* there is rarely enough time between when you turn that key and when the motor turns over once for the animal to get out. And it only takes 1 turn to kill the animal. I have seen too many animals fly out of a motor (or pickups, tractors, etc.) in chunks (dead).


----------



## Shell

KodiBarracuda said:


> Addition to 13 (two pages ago)
> 
> If you can, honk your horn before you turn it on.
> 
> I once acutally had to pop my hood because a cat (chased by my dog) went into the engine from underneath and when I popped the hood, was sitting on top of the engine. Figure that one out, lol. I wouldn't have even seen her if I hadn't seen the dog chase her into my truck.
> Honking the horn will usually scare what ever is in your vehicle that you cant see, out of it.


You can also just thunk your hood with your hand a couple times; if you have neighbors, they will appreciate not hearing a car horn every morning 
Also do this for riding lawn mowers and any other motor vehicle (like a ATV) that has an enclosed engine.


----------



## KodiBarracuda

Also keep animals away from lawn mowers (and I suppose other like vehicles, ATVs etc.) after they have been run for awhile. As engines and other parts get warm and what not.

We recently had a kitten that was playing with the others around the lawnmower when it was freshly parked in the garage and the kitten burnt a good sized patch on his back. He is ok, the hair is growing back, but it scabbed up for awhile and it wasn't pleasant for him.


----------



## Labmom4

Just thought I'd mention something here. I dont know how it is in all of your home's, but my family cannot seem to get their dental floss, Q-tips and cotton balls into the trash can. They either leave them on the counter, where the cat knocks them on the floor, or they toss them in the general direction of the trash can. So, if your family doesnt understand how to operate a trash can, like mine, pick this stuff up so the dogs dont eat it.


----------



## JonTempleton

I've always had to be very careful here in Florida because there are so many Bufo frogs. Sometimes a dog will try and eat them and they are poisonous. I generally just wash the mouth with a hose if they do come in contact, but it is something I am always worried about.


----------



## robert.nkemdiche

Pin It

Summer is the season most of us look forward to for outdoor activities, but dogs don't do as well in hot weather as people do. Sometimes it's kinder, and far safer, to keep your dog at home. But whatever you do and wherever you go, keep these tips in mind:

Be aware that not all dogs handle heat in the same way. Dogs build up heat as a function of volume and lose it as a function of surface area. This means that larger dogs with rounder bodies have less surface area for their size, and build up heat faster.

In addition, dogs lose heat through evaporation from their nasal passages and tongue. This means that dogs with flat faces are less able to lose heat. As a rule, the bigger the dog and the flatter the face, the more prone they are to overheating. Overweight and old dogs have an even greater risk, as do dogs with thick fur.

Fur coats can be hot. Fur provides some amount of protection from the sun, but thick fur prevents body heat from escaping and promotes overheating. It's a myth that shaving a dog's coat makes him hotter. Shaving it to the skin can make him vulnerable to sunburn, but cutting the fur to about one inch can help him stay cooler. If you don't want to shave him, brush as much undercoat as you can out, and be sure no solid mats are there to trap heat and moisture.

Don't exercise your dog when it's warm. He wanted to run, so you took him jogging. You only noticed he was in trouble when he started to stagger, then fell. His breathing is rapid, his gums red, and he has thick, profuse saliva. He's in full blown heat stroke, and you must act fast to save his life. See later in the article for instructions.

Unfortunately, veterinarians see far too many dogs in this situation every year, many of which succumb. Dogs overheat before people do, so even though you may be just a little warm, your dog can be lethally overheated. On warm days, exercise your dog first thing in the morning, late at night, or only where he can cool off in water. And beware of hot asphalt!

Keep your dog out of parked cars. You only meant to be gone a minute. But once in the store, you got distracted, you forgot just how hot it was outside, and by the time you came back, a crowd was around your car. This time you were lucky. A broken window, the scowls of onlookers, but your dog is alive. Next time he might not be.

Studies show that the temperature inside cars can heat to lethal temperatures within 30 minutes even if the weather outside is relatively cool. Regardless of outside air temperature, cars heat up at a similar rate - gaining 80 percent of their final temperature within 30 minutes. Cars that start at a comfortable 72 degrees F (22 degrees C), for example, soar to a deadly 117 degrees F (47 degrees C) after 60 minutes in the sun. Cracking the windows scarcely affects the temperature inside.

Nobody keeps statistics on dog deaths from being left in cars, but about 30 to 40 children die in parked cars each year. Considering that dogs aren't allowed in most places children are, and that dogs overheat more quickly than children, it's likely that hundreds of dogs die in closed cars every year.

Be prepared for travel emergencies. You're driving with your dog on a hot day, enjoying the air conditioning. Suddenly the car dies. As you wait for help, the temperature is rising, and your dog is starting to get overheated. If you have water, offer some to him, and pour some over him. Next time, prepare by bringing a cooler with ice and a small car-battery-powered fan. Soak your dog and a towel in ice water, have him sit on the towel, and aim the fan at him. Air blowing over your dog's wet skin and fur cools him just as your sweat in a breeze cools you.

Provide for comfort at home. You left your dog in the yard, but the day turned out hotter than you expected. Next time, provide for your dog's comfort before you leave. Be sure he has a place that's shady all day long. Buy a kiddy pool and fill it with water so he can soak in it and cool off. If possible, aim a fan at him from a sheltered place so he has a breeze. If your dog is left inside, you may need to run the air conditioning, or at least a fan. If the weather is very hot, you may need to find a way to guard against electrical outages while you're away. Some pets have died when the electricity, and thus air conditioning, unexpectedly went off during the day.

Spring can be just as hot. Just because it's spring (or fall) don't be lulled into a false sense of security. Many people who are aware of summer heat hazards fail to take the same precautions in spring, when their dogs may still be wearing their thick winter coats. Don't be caught off guard!

Cooling a Hot Dog. Don't plunge an overheated dog into ice water. This causes the peripheral blood vessels to contract, actually trapping the overheated blood at the body's core -- just where it does most harm. Instead, cool the dog slowly by placing him in cool water, or by draping him with wet towels and aiming a fan at him. Offer him plenty of cool water.

If you have a thermometer, cool him until his temperature reaches 103 degrees F (39 degrees C), then stop, as it will continue to decline. As soon as you have him cooling, race him to the veterinarian. Even if he appears to have recovered, he needs to go to the veterinarian because some delayed but deadly effects can still occur even days later.

Not All Dogs Can Swim! Although swimming is a great exercise in warm weather, make sure your dog can swim first! Some breeds, such as bulldogs, French bulldogs and Pekingese, have the swimming ability of cinderblocks. And even good swimmers can drown in backyard pools if they don't know where the steps are to climb out.

Dogs and UV Rays. Dogs, especially light-skinned dogs, can get sunburn and melanoma. If you dog likes to sun worship, rub a sunblock on his belly and the top of his nose, the most common sites for sunburn.


----------



## Tupples

Do not leave any food items in the open while you are out. Also no treats should be left outside without your supervision when there are two dogs in your house. 
Leave no ope electrical wiring which might be dangerous for your dog. Train your dog well before taking him in public places without a leash. In any case tie him with a leash to avoid mishaps. No hot articles should be left lying around. Remember that dogs are curious. They might get hurt.


----------



## rattie_love

After working in one, I have to add avoid doggy daycares. If you must use one, read the reviews, ask people who have been there before, etc. I'm sure there are good ones, but the one where I worked advertised a separate small dog play area, but they could have one fewer staff member there if they combined all the dogs. There were so many fights, and with 40 dogs in one room, it was VERY difficult for staff members to stop it. None of the parents knew this was going on, and a lot of injuries (to the dogs and to the staff members) could have been prevented fairly easily. 

On that same note, if things at the dog park get too squirrely, just leave. Sometimes, the dog park is ripe for fights, and it's not worth it to try and get in 15 more minutes of exercise. Walk instead!


----------



## AkitaAnn

Lots of great tips! How about don't walk too far ahead of your dog? That's how a collar can come loose from your dog if he/she pulls backward. Also, I agree with several of you guys especially cracking window. Too little is asking for trouble, too much is asking for bigger trouble. Spend $ on one of those Othru guards and you will be happy. One of our best investments ever.


----------



## kpblackie

Great post!

I just got back from a walk with my dog and this one came into play:
"_5.) Do not allow your dog to greet other dogs on leash. Dogs on leash are forced to greet face 2 face which can be construed by one or both dogs as "rude" and someone may start a fight._"

I never heard of this. A ladies German Shepard got loose and Blackie was happy to meet a new dog. When the owner came over with her other dog (on a leash), that dog started getting really aggressive, growling and biting at Blackie. The Shepard, who was loose, was not aggressive at all. He just wanted a smell.


----------



## Sandra.smith

I absolutely agree with the tips to keep dogs safe. Sometimes, pet owners ignore underrated precautions like keeping your pets safe on a bonfire night or any event when firecrackers are used. 
Pets really need extra care in these kind of occasions and events. Tips by GJW Titmuss on how to keep your pet safe this bonfire night might help starters to take good care of their pets. My dog is usually very stressed during this period and I hope I can manage to keep him calm this time. If anyone has any tips for bonfire night care then please let me know. Tried out tips can help more 

Thanks.


----------



## GizmosPuppyMill

Fences, covering up any sharp drops they might fall off, pet gates to prevent adventurous dogs wandering out the front door. And of course obedience training - in particular the recall command. All these things may save your dogs life.


----------



## bulldoglover

This is a great thread with lots of valuable information.

I would just like to add something...there were a lot of 'don't's' and I think it would be good to add some 'do's'

Or am I just being picky!


----------



## ackerleynelson

Yes, it is true that if we keep these various points in our mind for our dog then the vet's bill can be reduced to a great extent and offcourse our pets could live a much better life.


----------



## Gumiho

Here is a random little tip: Have a dedicated email address for your pets and use it for your vet records, pet related accounts AND ADD IT TO YOUR PET ID TAGS. Then, you can check it daily if your pets go missing. It can also be added to missing pet flyers.

I started doing this after having a few friends hand off loose dogs and cats to me that they had found, because for what ever reason they weren't comfortable calling strangers and arranging pick up, but said they had posted "found dog" listings for the animals and were ok fielding and answering emails... Some people don't like calling strangers (and in the process potentially giving out their number.) But these same people are generally ok with email. So its a good option to have both an email, a phone number and a physical address on a pet ID tag. (along with a microchip of course, in case the collar is lost). 

This option also helps bridge language barriers a little bit, since you can use google or phone apps to translate emails if need be, rather than struggle through a bi-lingual phone conversation if the individual who found your pet doesn't speak your native language (or the other way around).


----------



## Pet ID Tags

As a child, it all depends on the dog food, medical care,exercise and safety.You "You want to make sure to give him 
the best care possible.The tips of the right information in many areas for the animals to choose pet collar and Pet ID tag, to perform their new dog or cat you are traveling with your pet to be safe at home, in the cold winter months.


----------



## ackerleynelson

Gumiho, the tip you provided is really good and I will definitely do it for my dog.


----------



## dogtrainallday

I cannot stress the importance of keeping your dogs licenses current!


----------



## dogspot

These are some more tips for kipping your dog safe.

>NEVER FEED YOUR PUPPY FROM THE TABLE as it encourages him to BEG for food. All the members of the family must abide by this Golden Rule

>It is advisable to check with your vet, when you are about to make the change from puppy food to adult dog food

>do not offer dog human food, as their nutritional needs are far different from humans


----------



## Greendognow.com

Wonderful information, thank you! I have wondered how to handle situations at the dog park!...

6.) If you need to break up a dog fight grab the dog's hind legs and wheel barrow them backward out of the fight.


----------



## Naty

I agree with all of this except for the first. I feed all that enter my home together. It fights off food aggression. I guess in my way.


----------



## Foresthund

It also takes human judgement I never personally known any older dogs to eat things like socks. The ones that would,would likely eat rocks and sticks as well.

I will do the greet on leash,because I have a dog that acts no differently on or off leash. If there's a dog he doesn't like he will fight it no matter what,and when there's a leash it is much easier and safer breaking up as fight. In fact didn't see a difference in my other two dogs as well. Make sure the leashes don't become tangled,and let the dogs sniff each other,don't let them just have a stare down on leash.
I don't like the weel barrow method with him,the only time I used it, was the only time I almost got bitten,I've even used the dreaded collar method more safely.

>If you tie up a dog make sure it had water,shelter and shade. Use a quality nylon collar,don't use tiny weak chains with powerful dogs,and make sure there is nothing the dog can leap over and get caught on.
>Never let animals loose on or near 4th of July or Halloween,they need extra supervision as well. Not all will run away but its not a good risk to take,I see signs for lost pets every year around then.


----------



## RabbleFox

Foresthund said:


> >If you tie up a dog make sure it had water,shelter and shade. Use a quality nylon collar,don't use tiny weak chains with powerful dogs,and make sure there is nothing the dog can leap over and get caught on.


I agree but any dog on a tie out should be using a harness and be supervised. The harness prevents neck injuries. No leaving Fido tied out when you are at work, either. I know a lot of people do this in my area and we recently had a dog running around on a 4 lane road during rush hour brought into the store. She had a broken tie out clip on her collar. Her family was angry and confused when we called, thinking we had taken her off the chain. Turns out, they didn't even know she was missing. :/

During the summer, if your dogs MUST be outside dogs, please use flea, tick, and fly protection. Fly Strike on the ears is terribly common with this hot summer weather. I've seen too many dogs with fly bitten ears...


----------



## PetLover101

Suggestions???

I love my dog so much, but sometimes she can be a real pain!!!
I live in an apartment and she won't go to the bathroom unless she is off the leash, so what do I do...? Let her off! sometimes she is good sometimes she is bad, does anyone have any pet security advice, She has tags and microchipped but that takes forever to find her if she gets lost! Any other ideas?


----------



## ThoseWordsAtBest

PetLover101 said:


> Suggestions???
> 
> I love my dog so much, but sometimes she can be a real pain!!!
> I live in an apartment and she won't go to the bathroom unless she is off the leash, so what do I do...? Let her off! sometimes she is good sometimes she is bad, does anyone have any pet security advice, She has tags and microchipped but that takes forever to find her if she gets lost! Any other ideas?


Well, since this is a thread regarding Murphy's Law.. stop letting your dog without solid recall off leash until you've proofed a solid recall.


----------



## cookieface

blackfoxik said:


> why you microchiped him? dont you know that it can cause cancer? many studies proven it! how would you like be microchiped yourself... i really dont understand why people are doing this...


Do you have any proof that microchips cause cancer? Can you cite peer-reviewed research?


----------



## RabbleFox

blackfoxik said:


> you can find several on the internet just do it your research here is one: http://www.antichips.com/cancer/albrecht-microchip-cancer-synopsis.pdf


Tumor formation is considered reasonably small, says the Dr. George Demetri from said article. There are risks in every procedure and I find the worth of the microchip to be much higher than the small, snall risk if tumor formation.


----------



## RabbleFox

blackfoxik said:


> if you want to take that risk it is up to you... but ask yourself would you chip yourself if you know that there is 1% chance of developing tumor? Its true that a majority of dogs will never have any problem but you never know if the one with the problem will be yours....


There is a ton of risk in everyday medical procedures. I would absolutely get myself a chip if I couldn't communicate where I lived and had lost my ID bracelet and had the potential to be taken to jail and killed if my mom couldn't pick me up fast enough. <--- how shelters work. 

1% risk is pretty dang low.


----------



## RabbleFox

blackfoxik said:


> its your choice, everybody have to make decision for themselves... Its better to have dog-collar with address and telephone if your dog gets lost - thats my opinion...


Tags get pulled off by branches or playing with other dogs, collars snap. I've had both those things happen. Luckily, I was standing right there. Someone could easily remove your dog's collar and claim him a "stray". Microchip is a fantastic, mostly permanent way to identify your dog if their collar ends up missing. 

Dogs should wear a collar and tags of some sort when they are out but I use my microchip and neuter tattoo as backups. Backups that are hard to change or remove.


----------



## saruhhkayy

Shell said:


> Use a seatbelt harness or a crate whenever you travel by car/truck with your dog.


This one is so important to me! I had an incident while driving home with my dog in the backseat (roaming) and I almost hit a deer, he went flying forward and I had to close line him to prevent him from hitting the windshield! Since that moment if I drive anywhere but around the corner I put them in their kennel. I realized when I almost hit the deer and slammed on my breaks that if a human needs a seat belt the same is for dogs, more so even. It would have devastated me if I lost him because I went from 60 to 0 in about 3 seconds avoiding an accident but causing him to injury himself or worse. Couldn't live with myself if that had happened!


----------



## Waggintails

It's a good question, do you keep them as safe as possible at all times or let them live a little and take chances. I drive with one dog's head out the side window and the other in the passenger seat. I've have taken many chances and let them run in the woods, swim in the ocean, lakes, rivers, etc. and hunt around natural areas. We've had some close calls, less now that they aren't pushing their luck so much. If anything happened to either one it would be devastating but I decided to let them get some fun out of life. Well, I gotta go and get my motorcycle prepped for a run to the mountains.


----------



## pet_heaven

I'm also curious about proofs that microchips cause cancer?


----------



## Piddle Place

Thank you Great advice, I will share this on our website!


----------



## talahaski

Watch out for garage doors closing, some dogs don't expect the door to drop down from above and may not know enough to get out of the way.

Comment about meeting other dogs on leash. This is true and something to be careful about, many dogs have been trained to accept greeting people and other dogs by walking up, but this is not the normal way for them. Also some dogs when on leash may feel like they are protecting their owner. Its always best for dogs to meet off leash (in a safe area)

Off leash, my previous dog would lie down for a second before approaching a new dog to let the other dog know he is not going to try to dominate. When on leash he was not able to provide that sign.


----------



## it'sThor

Love the list you've all got in keeping your dog safe which I certainly agree, and for me as love to travel here's top addition to it.

•Don't let your dog ride in an open truck bed
•Keep your pet's head and paws inside the car
•Never leave your pets in a parked car, to avoid heatstroke
•Check your pet's collar regularly


----------



## stephy

Since we are on the topic of car safety, we should keep our dogs head and paws inside the car as much as possible. I know that they love it but there is also a significant chance that they would accidentally fall out or debris/insects will get into their eyes or noses.


----------



## Debbiesmith4555

Wow, that's a lot of things to think about to keep your dog safe.


----------



## LennyandRogue

To be fair, most of these are some variation of "supervise or restrain your dog so they don't eat/run in front of/encounter crap that can hurt them" and "take your dog to the vet regularly."


----------



## crysania

I want to add...when it comes to leaving dogs in parked cars.

USE COMMON SENSE.

If it's cool and overcast, no problem. If it's cool and sunny but you can park in the shade, no problem. If it's hot and you need to run into a store to pee, keep two sets of keys. Leave the car running with the AC on and lock the car with the other key. Make sure you're quick. 

I see too many "don't ever leave dogs in parked cars" and unfortunately that is not always possible. I travel to classes with my dogs, I go to trials. Sometimes I need to go to the bathroom and since my dogs aren't allowed inside what do I do? If the choice comes down to being sensible when traveling with dogs or never traveling with them, I'll choose the former every time. My dogs would too.


----------



## DracoGSD

If no one will know to take care of your dog if you are in an accident leave a card in your wallet with information about your dog and letting the authorities know it is home alone and needs to be taken care of.

Thankfully if I and my husband were in an accident, my parents would know to go get my dog and he would be taken care of. 

I agree with not leaving dogs and cats together unsupervised, to an extent, but what is someone supposed to do when they are not home? Crate their dogs separately? Or does rule #2 only apply to animals of separate families? I can say I am 110% sure and confident that my GSD and my Pyrenees (who lives with my parents for the time being, rental issues) would never get into a fight.


----------



## DracoGSD

crysania said:


> I want to add...when it comes to leaving dogs in parked cars.
> 
> USE COMMON SENSE.
> 
> If it's cool and overcast, no problem. If it's cool and sunny but you can park in the shade, no problem. If it's hot and you need to run into a store to pee, keep two sets of keys. Leave the car running with the AC on and lock the car with the other key. Make sure you're quick.
> 
> I see too many "don't ever leave dogs in parked cars" and unfortunately that is not always possible. I travel to classes with my dogs, I go to trials. Sometimes I need to go to the bathroom and since my dogs aren't allowed inside what do I do? If the choice comes down to being sensible when traveling with dogs or never traveling with them, I'll choose the former every time. My dogs would too.


THANK YOU!

My dog has separation anxiety and the car actually provides a lot of comfort for him. I would rather take him on errands, leave him in the car for 10-20 minutes while I am in stores, than leave him in a crate at home for hours. He never barks in the car either, he just sleeps when the car is parked and is much more relaxed than when I leave him home.

People also don't take breed into consideration, and coat makes such a huge difference. My Pyr will SLEEP IN THE SNOW when a heated dog house and inside the house is an option, she is not going to get cold in a car. If it is over 70 degrees I won't leave my dog(s) in the car for more than 5-10 minutes.

I feel like people get over kill about dogs in the car. Life situations simply don't permit every dog owner to never leave their dog in a car alone, and if every dog was removed from every owner who did this then there would be a lot of homeless dogs that really were in loving homes.


----------



## jerald909

There are several steps you can take to keep your pets safe and reduce the likelihood that they’ll become lost or stolen.

*Your pet should wear a collar and ID tags at all times.* Include an up-to-date phone number where you can be reached. ID tags are available at each AHS facility.
*Have your pet microchipped*? Microchips are an implanted form of identification equipped to access your contact information when scanned at a veterinary clinic or shelter.
*Spay/neuter your pet*. Studies have shown that sterilized animals safe are less likely to roam.
*Keep them safe when you’re out and about.* Animals love the outdoors but it is our responsibility to protect them. Always leash your animals when outside. Keep them close to home and away from traffic, unfamiliar animals and those who may not concern themselves with your pet’s best interests. 
*Leave them comfortable at home. *Never leave your dog leashed outside a store or unattended in the car, even if it’s locked or the windows are rolled down.


----------



## Margaretavier

Although it is true that there are some races that are considered potentially dangerous, and that in this case the owners have to hire a policy for third parties, there are a number of reasons.


----------



## jerald909

*Preventing lost pets*

There are several steps you can take to keep your pets safe and reduce the likelihood that they’ll become lost or stolen.

Your pet should wear a collar and ID tags at all times. Include an up-to-date phone number where you can be reached. ID tags are available at each AHS facility.
Have your pet microchipped. Microchips are an implanted form of identification equipped to access your contact information when scanned at a veterinary clinic or shelter.
Spay/neuter your pet. Studies have shown that sterilized animals are less likely to roam.
Keep them safe when you’re out and about. Animals love the outdoors but it is our responsibility to protect them. Always leash your animals when outside. Keep them close to home and away from traffic, unfamiliar animals and those who may not concern themselves with your pet’s best interests. 
Leave them comfortable at home. Never leave your dog leashed outside a store or unattended in the car, even if it’s locked or the windows are rolled down.

source:Animal Humane Society


----------



## krankins

I would like to add to getting a CBC. Once a year when your dog is young and healthy, and TWICE a year if you have a senior dog with medical problems. Monitoring organ functions and catching problems before your dog becomes symptomatic can be a life saver, even if your senior dog "acts fine".


----------



## ReichertCaleb

Use a seatbelt harness or a crate whenever you travel by car/truck with your dog.


----------



## ReichertCaleb

ThoseWordsAtBest said:


> Good, sound thread! I don't have much to add for now, other than to take some time to bone up on dog body language and specifically take note of your dogs. It can make the difference between a fight and knowing when to remove them from the situation before a fight starts.


training a dog takes skill and time so we need to learn a lot from here.


----------

